Olomouc - The Crown Jewel of Moravia

Prague, the glorious and cosmopolitan capital city, has always dominated tourism in the Czech Republic. The popularity of Prague is certainly justified. Known as a "City With a Thousand Spires," Prague is the crown jewel of Czech history and the heart of economic and cultural life for the Czech people. But less known was that the country comprised three distinct historical regions: Bohemia, Moravia, and the much smaller Czech Silesia. Bohemia is the home of Prague and Český Krumlov and has long been the country's dominant half. On the other hand, Moravia lacks name recognition and has often flown under the radar. Truthfully, we would have never heard of Olomouc if it were not for the glowing recommendation from Rick Steves. As we planned our trip from Budapest to Prague, I took the chance to visit Villa Tugendhat in Brno, my favorite modern residence of all time. To my amazement, Brno was such a lively and cosmopolitan city that we wished to have spent a night or two.

If Brno may be Moravia's political and economic heart, Olomouc is the historic soul of the region. It was the capital of Moravia until the Swedish armies ransacked it in the mid-17th century. The Olomouc was devastated and ceded its importance to Brno ever since. Because of its regional characters and historical monuments, Rick Steves regards Olomouc as Czech's second city in spirit and elevates it as a great alternative to Prague. As usual, I could not disagree with Rock. Dare I say out of the nine towns that we visited in the Czech Republic (including Prague), Olomouc is no doubt our favorite. The tiny Olomouc knew how to make a great impression.

Social Realism details on the building facade.

After picking up our rental car at Brno International Airport, it was a quick hour drive to Olomouc. Our first impression of the town was a little sleepy. With a population of only a hundred thousand, Olomouc certainly appears much grander than its size. Compared to a city of equivalent size in Italy, it was surprisingly devoid of pedestrians and vehicle traffic. We were surprised by how we could park right outside our hotel in the center of the old town. But then we remembered we were in a college town during the summer. According to the statistics, students account for as much as a quarter of the total population. I wonder how different our perception would have been if we visited during the school year.

Upper Square & Town Hall

Upon check-in to Hotel Arigone, we took a four-minute stroll down to Upper Square, the center of historic Olomouc. It is the second biggest public square in the country and impressive in its own right. And unlike Prague's Old Town Square, Olomouc's is more interesting architecturally. The town hall is majestically in the middle, and the square has an extraordinary collection of allegorical statues and fountains. I was personally impressed by the beauty of the stately architecture around the square. The whole square looked sparklingly clean and dignified. The absence of the crowd and students made the experiences somewhat surreal. The sun made the square glow like a beautiful film set. Fortunately, the historical core was fortunate enough to escape the wrath of the Communist-era reconstruction.

Equestrian fountain of Julius Cesar, the alleged founder of Olomouc.

At the same time, Olomouc's historic core has a unique air of authenticity. It was not overly cute or fanciful like Telč or Český Krumlov, nor did a single attraction dominate it. It appeared that few foreigners ever visited Olomouc, and there was not a single tourist shop nearby. I even struggled to find a place that sells postcards! It was refreshing to see workaday businesses lining this magnificent public space, from pharmacy and daycare to cheese shops. Perhaps this is why we ranked Olomouc as our favorite city in the Czech Republic. This sentiment was crystalized once we arrived in Prague and experienced the never-ending tourist jam. Olomouc will surely put any visitor at ease.

Coat of arm of Moravia at the entrance of Town Hall.

The first fountain we came across was an equestrian sculpture of Julius Caesar. Known as Mount Julius (Luliomontium) in Latin, Olomouc traces its origin to a Roman military settlement. Many attribute Julius Ceasar as the city’s founder, albeit without much historical evidence to support the claim. In reality, the documented founding of Olomouc went back to the mid-13th century. As a point of civic pride, the people of Olomouc purposefully have their town hall tower six feet taller than Prague's.

The splendid Town Hall is perhaps the best testament to Olomouc's documented history. The Baroque-Gothic structure now served as the ceremonial civic space where people gathered for special occasions and get married. The interior and bell tower tour may be reserved with the tourism office located at the entrance of the Town Hall. On weekends, local farmers set up a huge market, which I was lucky to witness during our visit. It is also the best place to catch a free performance by the local Moravian song and dance ensembles.

Socialist reconstruction of the astronomical clock at Olomouc Town Hall.

But for all the history associated with the Town Hall, the real point of interest is its fantastic Astronomical Clocks (Olomoucký orloj). For whatever reasons, Czechs seem to have particular knacks in building complex timepieces, with Prague's astronomic clocks being the most recognizable in the world. Having seen both on this trip, I could proclaim that Olomouc's is infinitely more interesting and historically fascinating. Despite its late medieval origin, Olomouc's astronomical clock was deliberately destroyed during the Nazi occupation. The subsequent communist government of Czechoslovakia took the opportunity to rebuild the clock in 1953 with the "appropriate" social realism style. The usual parade of saints and kings was replaced by lines of productive citizens, ranging from chemists, doctors, steel smiths, milkmaids, and teachers. As a non-Christian, I found the communist decoration much more interesting with all the local Christian saints.

Communist-era astronomic clock at the historic Town Hall of Olomouc.

A gorgeous mosaic of a life-size lab coat-wearing scientist and factory worker flanks the calendar on the bottom. While retaining the traditional calendar for Czech name days, the communists also inserted the birthdates of various noted communist revolutionaries such as Vladamir Lenin, Karl Marx, Josef Stalin, and Klement Gottwald. Unfortunately, the gate was closed during our visit to prevent me from a closer look. I was quite curious whether I shared a birthday with a noted communist! Surprisingly, communist reconstruction also retains many references to Moravian and Christian traditions such as Ride of the Kings. At noon each day, the clock is animated with the mechanical parade of all the figurines. Sadly, we just missed it during our short visit to Olomouc. Supposedly, the clock was even used to play The Internationale, the pan-communist anthem, during the hour.

The most intriguing fountain at Upper Square might be the Arion Fountain, located southwest of Town Hall. Commissioned only in 2002, this fountain is the only modern one among the ensemble of the Baroque fountain in historic Olomouc. Inspired by the Arion, a Greek mystical figure that was saved by a dolphin attracted to his angelic voice. Designed by Ivan Theimer, an Olomouc native, and Angela Chiantelli, the fountain is supposed to pay tribute to a former sculpture of the same subject 300 years ago.

The highlight of the fountain was the giant sea turtle bearing the weight of a big obelisk. According to the guidebook, the long history of Olomouc and Moravia was masterfully inscribed on the obelisk. The sculpture was wonderfully delightful and mesmerizing; it was as if it just emerged from the deep sea the night before. There is no doubt that this was the most popular place of gathering. The playful marine creatures are particularly popular with kids.

Holy Trinity Column

Olomouc may be a beautiful town, but what drew visitors here is the Holy Trinity Column. Designed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000, this Baroque column was constructed between 1716 and 1754 after the end of a plague that wiped out over half of Olomouc's population. Commonly as Marian Columns, erecting a monument to give thanks to God was quite a common practice during the period of Counter-Reformation. Showcasing the fervent of the Catholic powers and one's devotion merged with the civic pride of a locality. The massive Baroque column we see today was a point of civic pride. From the funds to the artisans, the design and construction of this monument were entirely native to Olomouc. Even the saints adorning the column are all connected to Olomouc and Moravia.

With Marian columns erected throughout Europe, Olomouc's is the largest and the most artistically advanced by a long shot. The construction was spearheaded by a heroic effort by Wenzel Render. He poured in all his financial fortunes and employed many leading artists to complete this work. Words spread about the splendidness of the monument, and the monument was actually dedicated by an official visit from Empress Maria Theresa and her husband, Francis I, Holy Roman Emperor. It must have been a remarkable event to have the most powerful empress and emperor in town for the most important monument in your town.

The column is topped with a beautiful sculpture of the Holy Trinity: God the Father, Jesus, and the Holy Spirit. Of course, the archangel Michael was just below it to defend the faith. In the middle was the statue of the Virgin Mary and an allegorical relief of Christian virtues: Charity, Faith, and Hope. Even though you could easily see the whole column in just about sixty seconds, the artistry of the whole architectural ensemble was breathtaking. It was really like a freestanding art gallery of the Baroque period. At the base of the chapel was a tiny chapel in which the empress and the emperor prayed on its opening day. It was big enough for a few worshippers and worth popping into.

Perhaps the most interesting sculpture is a golden orb that lodges precariously on the side of the column, a quarter of the way below the Holy Trinity sculpture group. Why? It turns out that just four years after the monument's dedication, Prussia besieged Olomouc. When a cannonball hit the column, the citizens of Olomouc went to the Prussian general to plead with him to spare their beloved monument, a request that was respectfully agreed to. After the war, the column was promptly repaired. The local sculpture inserted a golden orb to commemorate the siege.

Lower Square

Beyond the Upper Square is the unsurprisingly named Lowe Square (Dolní Náměstí). Though it was not as interesting as its bigger cousin, it was a pleasant urban space filled with three additional fountains dedicated to Jupiter, the Virgin Mary, and Neptune. Among them, the Neptune Fountain is the most significant and oldest Baroque fountain in the city, dating back to 1683.

According to the guidebook, it is not a coincidence that Olomouc is so fond of Greek mythological figures. The fertile land around Olomouc meant a close connection with its pagan past. Ironically, if it were not for Rick Steve's guidebook, I would automatically assume they are Christian saints.

Saint Wenceslas Cathedral & Olomouc Archdiocesan Museum

On our second day, we planned our morning to investigate the "spiritual" side of the city. After breakfast and a quick visit to the farmer's market at Upper Square, we headed to the well-reviewed Olomouc Archdiocesan Museum. We were somewhat hesitant. A museum dedicated to the Archdiocese of Olomouc? It didn't sound all that captivating any way you sliced it. Why will we be interested in the history of an archdiocese in a region that we barely heard of until a few days ago? Fortunately, it turned out to be a very worthwhile two hours. Set within the former residence of the archbishop, the museum was founded at the suggestion of Pope John Paul II during his visit to Olomouc in 1995. It took eleven years to assemble this world-class museum dedicated to Olomouc's history and religious heritage.

The gilded coach used by the Archbishop of Olomouc.

As you entered the museum, you were greeted by an enormous gilded horse-drawn coach. This was not the mode of transport for the Prince of Moravia but the Archbishop of Olomouc. The coach was placed at the entrance to remind visitors of the wealth and power of the archdiocese. It might seem excessive by our modern standards, but it also was the best indicator of the power of the church and Moravia. Although the Czech Republic is now one of the least religious nations in Europe, locals still take pride in their past cultural achievements. The museum serves as the semi-official repository for the arts and artifacts of the city. The museum also houses the remnants of Baroque astronomical clocks at the Town Hall, refashioned in a communist fashion.

I was quite surprised that a modern museum of this size was laid out in the linear fashion that is more typical for topical museums. However, it ensures you would not miss out on any exhibit. The visit started with their oil painting collection before heading to the Saint Barbora's Chapel, once the private place of worship for the archbishop. And we particularly enjoyed their small but fabulous collection of ciboria at their Treasure Room. The second part of the visit took us through the fresco-clad cloister and some lesser-seen spaces, such as the attic and medieval foundation. Almost all exhibits were well-described in English and beautifully curated. We couldn't fully appreciate most artifacts here without knowledge of Czech history.

One of the best memories we had at the museum is the helpful staff members who seem to roam around regularly. Even though most didn't speak much English, they were eager to show you the way. It was clear that they took pride in their museum and city. Unbeknown to us then, the museum was housed on the ground of the original castle of Olomouc. It was allegedly the site of the original Roman military settlement. The Saint Wenceslas Cathedral is adjacent to the museum, conveniently the archbishop's seat. The Gothic structure is enormous, and it is, in fact, the second tallest church in the country. Again, Olomouc has the second-best of all things in the Czech Republic. It is a super popular place for weddings since we saw back-to-back ceremonies.

Olomouc in 24 Hours

Our 24-hour visit was too short to appreciate what this magnificent city truly offered. Our sightseeing has been centered on cramming in as many greatest hits as possible. We suspect that most American tourists would be drawn here either by Rick Steve's guidebook or the UNESCO listing of the Holy Trinity Column. But aside from all the marquee attractions, it was simply a beautiful place to stroll and hang out. Though we did not experience the youthfulness of a college town, we could feel the vibe in all the great murals around town. If you would love to have brought home some souvenirs, maybe get a sweatshirt from the Palacký University Olomouc gift shop by the Town Hall.

Moravian folk singing performance at the weekend farmers’ market.

For music lovers, Olomouc has great connections to big names in the classical music world. Wolfgang Mozart spent a few years with his family in the Olomouc to escape a plague that devastated Brno. Unfortunately, young Mozart contracted smallpox and risked losing his eyesight altogether. It was not until much later that we realized that he spent his days recovering in the same buildings that make up today's Olomouc Archdiocesan Museum. At 11, Mozart wrote his Symphony No. 6 in F Major in Olomouc. Another classical music heavyweight who took up residency in Olomouc was Gustav Mahler, who resided here in 1883 as the orchestra conductor at the Royal Municipal Theater in Olomouc. However, Mahler did not seem to enjoy his short time here, partly because of the dreadful Czech food he claimed!'

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