The Disappointment With San Miguel de Allende

When we mentioned spending two weeks in central Mexico, just about everyone there asked whether we would visit San Miguel de Allende. For many, San Miguel epitomizes the ideal colonial town in Mexico. Some publications even regard it as the most beautiful town in the world. Last year, Travel + Leisure Magazine ranked San Miguel as the “best small city in the world” for the third time. Such a bold claim made me suspicious. Just about every other travel blog or vlogger seems giddy about their experience here; few had any negative things to say about SMA. Naturally, we felt compelled to check out this place ourselves.

For this trip, we visited four cities: Mexico City, Querétaro, Guanajuato, and San Miguel de Allende. Given the city’s excellent reputation, we made SMA our last stop. After all, saving the best for the last is always wise. Renowned for a striving art and culinary scheme, the city seems purpose-made for relaxation and indulgence. This was meant to be our break from the rest of the vacation. Since we had such a great time in Guanajuato and Querétaro, our expectations for SMA were sky-high.

The “Perfect” Colonial Town

Like most other Mexican towns, SMA’s Central de Autobuses is located outside the city center in a neighborhood that is not particularly picturesque. The cab ride into the city center was quick, and we were dropped just at the edge of the expansive pedestrian zone. I don’t know what I thought, but I booked our accommodation at Selina San Miguel de Allende. Based on the online photos, the property looks both chic and trendy. Only after making a non-refundable reservation that I realize it was a glorified hostel. Unbeknown to me, Selina is an international chain or live-work space that is more akin to a glorified hostel than a boutique hotel. It was an unfortunate choice in a city known for luxury hotels.

The equestrian statue of Ignacio Allende on Plaza Cívica.

Inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008, SMA is one of Mexico's best-preserved colonial cities. The town is located along the famous Silver Route (Ruta de la Plata), a vital transport route for the region’s vast silver deposits. With it, the city prospered and developed as a cultural and industrial center. In addition to the grand churches and government buildings, the city also hosts numerous grand mansions of owners of haciendas around the region. During its 18th-century heyday, SMA is considered one of the largest and most economically powerful cities in the Western Hemisphere. It was even more populous than major American cities like New York or Boston.

Calle Aldama is definitely one of the most picturesque streets in the city.

The city follows a grid plan typical of most Spanish colonial towns. But unlike Mexico City or Querétaro, the topography of SMA creates many scenic vistas. And like most other cities, the city is centered around a grand square and impressive church. The central public square, Jardín Allende, is an outdoor living room for locals and tourists alike. The square is bustling with activities from early morning to well after midnight. The tree canopy is perfectly manicured, just like the elegant parks in Paris or Madrid. Former president Porfirio Díaz was a big proponent of French culture. The government and social elite sought to emulate everything French, from fashion to architecture. Jardín Allende is a prime example of such emulation of the French urban environment.

The largely pedestrianized downtown slows down the city’s pace of life. Not only is there no need to dodge traffic, but there is also a level of peace and quiet that is absent in other Mexican cities. The absence of vehicles made the city a lot more “Instagrammable.” Speaking of Instagram, SMA has no shortage of architecturally sublime landmarks. Besides all the colorful mansions, my favorite is the Church of Our Lady of Health (Templo de Nuestra Señora de La Salud). The scallop-shaped half dome on the facade is stunning. It is Baroque at its finest. For anyone who cares, this is the congregational church of the Oratory of Saint Philip Neri, a Catholic order that has always been quite avant-garde in its architecture.

The Church of Our Lady of Health (*Templo de Nuestra Señora de La Salud*).

Speaking of architecturally significant churches, some may argue that SMA’s Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel Church is the most beautiful. This parish church may not have the status of a cathedral or basilica, but it is arguably the most photogenic in Mexico. A modest church was constructed here in 1709, a typical church with a nondescript facade. In 1880, a local bricklayer named Zeferino Gutierrez received the commission to add a new facade to the original church. According to common legend, Gutierrez, who has no formal education or training as an architect, designed a new facade/portico based on an illustration of a European postal stamp he collected. True or not, it was a hell of a narrative. After all, who doesn't like the story of an amateur architect?

As an architect, I found the design of this to be both fascinating and frustrating. Even though it looks like a neo-Gothic church, it lacks the spirit of airiness that makes Gothic so special. The proportion of the portico is also unusually squat. Perhaps the most unique characteristic of this church is its pink sandstone. The disconnect between style and function is most evident on the inside. I admire Gutierrez’s ingenuity, but the interior was nothing special. It is far from the most magnificent churches I have seen, not even within the State of Guanajuato. I admit that I was a little annoyed that almost every travel blogger rushed to proclaim it as the most beautiful in the world.

Revolutionary SMA

San Miguel de Allende also plays a symbolic role in the history of the Mexican War of Independence. The city is the birthplace of two major heroes of the war: Ignacio Allende and Juan Aldama. In 1810, the two joined Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla and Josefa Ortiz de Domínguez to plot a ‘conspiracy’ to overthrow the colonial power based in Mexico City. A former colonial army officer turned independent rebel, Allende is considered a founding hero of Mexico. His name is now proudly honored with the name of his own hometown. Right at the corner of Jardín Allende stands the Museo Histórico Casa de Allende, the Allende family mansion. While we missed out on this particular museum, visitors could tour his childhood home and learn more about Ignacio Allende and the history of Mexican Independence.

Santuario de Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco.

According to history, Allende persuaded the local cavalry to join the cause through local connections and diplomatic skills. The city is honored to be the first city in Mexico to be freed from Spanish colonial rule. For me, SMA’s best monument is located seven miles northwest of the city in the little village of Atotonilco. The village is home to Santuario de Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco, a celebrated Baroque church that holds national significance in the history of Independence. In 1810, the nascent rebel army stopped at this church on the way to SMA to pray for blessing. Miguel Hidalgo took a flag from this church with the image of Our Lady of Guadalupe as the banner of the revolutionary army. This banner galvanized the support for Independence among the indigenous population, and it is considered one of the most important artifacts from the war.

Amazing ceiling fresco at Santuario de Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco.

Due to its hot mineral springs, the church has long been a pilgrimage site. Historical significance aside, the church is an architectural masterpiece both inside and out. Along with SMA, the Santuario de Jesús Nazareno was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008. It is a remarkable example of Mexican Baroque. The nave and side chapels of the church were covered with a dazzlingly complex set of murals that was unlike anything I had ever seen. They were works of Antonio Martínez de Pocasangre and took over three decades to complete. Every square inch of the buildings tells the story of the Bible and the evangelization of Mexico. The overall visual effects could be overwhelming, and one could easily spend an hour or two gazing at all the details. The church is sometimes called the "Sistine Chapel of Mexico.”

The church’s side annex is equally impressive but requires a small donation to access. Compared to the main nave, the annex appears light and airy but just as over the top. The walls are adorned with giant oil paintings of the twelve Apostles. But the pièce de résistance here got to be the Chapel of the Holy Burial (Capilla del Santo Sepulcro), commemorating Christ's death, burial, and resurrection. The life-size statue of the Holy Family stands in front of a scalloped niche; it reminds me of Baroque grottos that are all so popular in Italy.

A beautiful corner of Santuario de Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco.

So, is it worth making a trek to visit this church? Absolutely! It is among some of the most interesting churches I have visited. Even if you would have no issue getting private transport here from the center of SMA, be advised that Atotonilco has no taxi stand or Uber service available. Don’t be surprised if your cab drivers offer to wait for you and take you back for a nominal fee. I would not risk waiting for a random Uber to arrive at this tiny village.

SMA, The City of Ex-Pats

One thing that visitors always speak highly of SMA is how clean and tidy the city is. By that, I think they meant how strictly street vendors were regulated. Instead of occupying the sidewalk, a few handpicked vendors could sell ice cream and drinks from a handful of city-standardized carts. It all appears very controlled and Disneyland-like. Of course, this sanitized appearance directly results from an unusually large presence of Americans and Canadians and the wealth they brought with it. I have read somewhere that the SMA’s real estate is some of the highest in the country, and it is one of the least affordable cities for the locals.

Most mansions in the center of town have been snapped up by buyers from the United States and Canada.

Interestingly, SMA is widely known domestically as the city of Gringos. In 1937, American writer and artist Stirling Dickinson founded an art colony with Peruvian artist Felipe Cossio del Pomar. Drawn by the relaxed way of life in a sleepy colonial town and relatively cheap cost of living, the pair established the first art school in the city: Escuela Universitaria de Bellas Artes. By serendipity, many war veterans could attend art school here through the newly passed GI Bill. Up until a decade ago, SMA was still considered an affordable refuge for American and Canadian artists. Increasingly, like-minded retirees from the United States and Canada relocated here to take advantage of the California-like weather and the large ex-pat community.

Impressive mural at the Public Library gift shop in San Miguel de Allende.

Perhaps by design, the ex-pat community in SMA nowadays is overwhelmingly white and wealthy. Over the decades, they have exerted outsized influences on the development and policy of the city. It was often said that SMA would be the worst place to learn Spanish, given how pervasive English is spoken here. SMA boasts of having the only English-language public library in Mexico. While this is the most cosmopolitan small town in Mexico, the influx of foreigners also has many downsides.

From the insane level of gentrification to the commercialization of cultural heritage, these are issues that visitors could easily overlook. On one hand, the influx of foreigners and tourism are the community's lifeline. But we should not overlook the fact that nearly half of the city’s population still lives under moderate and severe poverties. While everybody knows how tidy SMA is, few venture outside the colonial center to see how 90% of the locals live.

One of the most characteristic features of SMA is the number of scuppers on the street.

While we did not observe any visible tension between local Mexicans and foreigners, I was conscious that the two communities do not seem to mingle socially. Jardin Allende is commonly referred to by the locals as "Gringo Gulch.” It was a norm to see Mexican staff waiting exclusively for white clientele at restaurants or cafes. While I hate to be one of those people who like to complain about a foreign destination being “so white,” I do believe it is incumbent on all of us to look beyond the pretty facade and be conscious of the social complexity of this unique community.

The City of Art Lovers

While we do not consider SMA to be the most beautiful or scenic Mexican city we have ever visited, I do have to admit that the city has one of the thriving art communities out there. Artists from across the world set up their studios here; it seems like either art galleries or high-end boutiques occupy about a quarter of the grand buildings in the historic center. What made SMA’s galleries so unique is their hybrid business model, where the galleries share spaces with trendy eateries and high-end hotels. Back home, I always find art galleries quite intimidating; I dislike being followed by the gallery owners. In comparison, walking into a coffee shop is much more relaxing.

La Fabrica la Aurora is definitely the city’s leading art facility.

Without question, the epic center of SMA’s art scheme would be La Fabrica la Aurora. Located at the city's northern edge, this former textile factory was transformed into Mexico’s largest gallery complex in 2004. The breadth of artworks represented here is truly amazing. From religious antiques to contemporary arts, there is something for everyone. Because of the number of galleries and foot traffic, the staff at individual studios were quite chill and left us alone. A number of the galleries double as active workshops; they definitely should be the highlight of any visit here. It certainly took away that level of commercialism out of this place.

While a few studios specialize in Mexico-inspired artworks, most galleries here are very international in style and subject. I was surprised to see works by Andy Warhol, Picasso, and Alexander Calder on sale. I have to admit that it might be a worthwhile investment. But what amazed me the most was that prices were posted for all to see. While I am sure bargaining and skillful negotiation are still needed, a certain level of price transparency is always appreciated. Comparing prices between artworks is half of the fun when going through the gallery.

La Fabrica la Aurora also has quite a few numbers of homeware shops.

For the first time in our lives, we looked into buying a piece of original artwork. As Brian and I got older, we felt more confident about our finances and taste in art. Brian has always complained that our apartment is filled with shades of gray and beige. He always pushed me to get some colorful artwork into our living room. After going through a few galleries, we began seriously considering purchasing this trip. A piece from British artist Josh Rowell piqued our interest. The piece is composed of a field of bright dots, which is supposed to be a physical manifestation of a digital message. Both of us took a fancy to it. At over five feet, it was a really big piece and would be quite a statement piece. Amazingly, the price tag was only $800 USD!

We may not have bought that painting, but we did have a really good time.

Over lunch, we deliberated and decided to pull the trigger and pull for whatever exuberant shipping cost back to New York. We figured that freight, tariff, and insurance should not cost more than $300. Getting an original artwork of that size for less than $1,200 was a steal. As we were about to tell the staff about our intent to purchase the piece, we realized we read the wrong price tag! Instead of $800, it was actually over $6,000. We felt silly about our naivety and a little embarrassed. While we did love the piece, we did not have the extra few thousand for art.

SMA Is For Brunch-Lovers

While I agree that SMA is beautiful, it is far from the most amazing city I have visited in Mexico. I believe SMA’s sky-high reputation probably ruined our visit. The city seems more like a film set than an actual living city. Even though we have been to notoriously touristy places like Venice and Bruge, something about SMA did not sit right with us. After our three-day visit, we found it difficult to summarize our experiences. As we were nursing our drinks at the hotel’s rooftop bars, I suddenly realized that SMA seems purpose-made for those who would enjoy “brunch”.

Panoramic sunsedt view of SMA from the rooftop of Selina San Miguel de Allende.

For me, brunch represents just about everything I dislike about our contemporary culture. Paying an exuberant amount for breakfast food and finding excuses for day drinking is not my idea of a fun time. Just like brunch culture, the appeal of SMA seems to lie in its outward presentation and the idea of escapism from the day-to-day hustle. While I could certainly understand the appeal of SMA, I am glad to say I would not be rushing back there anytime soon.

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