The Unexpected Musandam

If possible, it is always better to start your vacation with a non-stop flight. That has always been my preference since there is nothing worse than screwing up the first few days of your vacation because of flight delays or a missed connection. For our trip to the Sultanate of Oman, we planned to fly into Dubai overnight and then make an overland trip into Oman via the Omani exclave of Musandam Governorate. After a few days of leisure activities, we would take a domestic flight or a five-hour fast ferry to Muscat to continue our Omani adventure.

So why the Musandam Peninsula? With a population of just over 30,000, Musandam possesses few natural resources and has long been a backwater due to its geographic isolation from the rest of the Sultanate. Due to its strategic location at the Strait of Hormuz, this tiny exclave was carved out from the United Arab Emirates to be part of the British-friendly Sultanate. The Strait of Hormuz controls one of the most important shipping lanes in the world; roughly one-fifth of the world's petroleum passes through this narrow body of water. With Iran in control of the other side of the strait, Oman's geopolitical importance is ever more important in the eyes of the West.

For travelers, Musandam's barren and fjord-like landscape is unique in the Middle East. Often referred to as "Norway of Arabia,” Musandam's pristine natural beauty and remote villages have begun to attract foreign visitors, particularly GCC nationals and Western Europeans. Because of its relative proximity to Dubai, the region has become a popular escape from the glitzy metropolis. Like the rest of Oman, it is a place to appreciate isolation and solitude. It is where you should go for a vacation away from your vacation.

Getting There

I was quite excited about our trip to Musandam, but finding a regularly scheduled bus transport from Dubai to the Musandam Peninsula was nearly impossible. The only viable option is to arrange a private taxi or sign up for a pre-arranged tour. After months of research and careful consideration, we have opted for a three-day, two-night trip through Khasab Travel and Tours. Honestly, this was the first time I had signed up for a packaged tour since I was a kid. I contacted them by e-mail, filled out a reservation form, and received a one-line e-mail message saying that a driver would pick us up from Dubai at 8 am on the day. I must admit that I started to be anxious about the pickup several days before the trip despite further confirmation e-mails.

To my incredible relief, the driver showed up promptly at Ibis Styles Dubai Jumeira Hotel on time. We have read that we would be dropped off at a transfer point to board a bus to Oman. We were surprised to realize that the driver was driving the two of us to our hotel in Musandam. The three-hour journey from Dubai passed through the emirates of Sharjah, Ajman, Umm al-Quwain, and Ras al-Khaimah. While the drive through the UAE may seem somewhat anticlimactic, our driver was kind, giving us occasional commentary about various emirates. It is amazing how the political and economic descriptions of each manifest in their architecture and urban landscape. Sharjah, a wealthy but fundamentalist Islamic emirate, made a particular impression with dense and oppressive-looking housing blocks. Further up in the Emirate of Ras Al-Khaimah, the atmosphere is far more relaxed, with the agricultural fields and small idyllic seaside villas.

The scenery decidedly changed as we approached the Omani border. The mountain peaks emerge from the flat desert land. There was a palpable sense of excitement between us. We were all too happy to leave the UAE; the artificiality of the country was starting to get to us even in such a short span of time. Before we knew it, we were at the border crossing. For U.S. passport holders, there is an AED 35 exit fee for UAE and OR20 visa fees for the 30-day tourist visa to Oman. The two separate border crossings were identical in process, and we were in and out in 15 minutes, thanks to the smooth escort of our driver. There was a definite excitement when we finally arrived at the passport entry stamp from the Royal Oman Police. Under the gaze of the Omani flag, our journey continued north along the winding coastal road toward Khasab.

The only coastal connection between Musandam and United Arab Emirates.

Right after the border crossing, the change in scenery was dramatic. At first, Oman looked desolate and void of much economic development. But the sleek and modern expressway to Khasab told a different story. It was immediately clear to us that Oman is someplace really special; it has the infrastructure of the United Arab Emirates but not the excess and contradiction of all the other Gulf nations. Oman is a nation of tradition and modesty in the best sense of the word. Just 15 minutes north of the border checkpoint at Tibāt, we passed by the tiny village of Bukha and the beautiful Bukha Fort. Though we have long heard of the plethora of fortresses in Oman, seeing the first was very exciting. While not the most magnificent Omani fortress during our two-week visit, Bukha Fort got my vote for the most magnificently situated. Don't believe it? You should check out this amazing drone video of the fort!

Amazing contrast of remote villages with the pristine surrounding landscape.

As we approached Khasab, the road started to twist and turn. The full view of Musandam's fjord-like landscape materialized before our eyes. A string of small fishing villages is set at the base of these barren cliffs. Each of them seems frozen in time and undaunted by the arrival of the modern road at their doorstep. We could not ask for a better introduction to this country. This drive to Khasab encapsulated the serenity of the sultanate. There was a palpable sense of calm and anticipation inside a vehicle.

Khasab

The administrative center of Musandam Governorate, Khasab, is by far the most cosmopolitan city in the region. With a population of less than 20,000, the city is far from being a cultural destination. But what it lacks in cultural venues is more than made up in creature comfort and intriguing history. The arrival of modern tourism was crystal clear with a new cruise port and luxury resorts. They always say that the first impression of a country is important, so we opted to pamper ourselves with a two-night stay at the luxurious Atana Musandam Resort. At $ 230 USD a night, it is fancier than how we typically travel. In some way, it certainly characterizes the tourism development of Oman: upmarket and yet culturally modest.

As our driver dropped us off at the entrance, my personal anxiety over travel logistics was instantly swept away. The resort was tastefully designed and furnished to resemble an idealized version of an Omani fishing village. Every little detail has been thoughtfully executed. We were perfectly in love with our spacious room, the patio seating area facing the inlet, and the dramatic mountain backdrop. If it were not for the perfectly tightly scheduled package tour itinerary, we would have just stayed in for the afternoon, admiring the changing colors of the mountain scenery. Strangely, this beautiful resort was often passed because it was not "licensed.” And that means the resort does not hold a special license to serve alcohol. Sadly, many Westerners would rather stay at the fully licensed sister resort, far from the city center and resembling an outdated Holiday Inn.

What also makes Atana Musandam a perfect home base is the adjacent LuLu Hypermarket. The UAE-based supermarket chain is a lifeline for any foreign visitor to Oman. It is a combination of Walmart and Target in the United States. They offer everything from electronics to camping gear. But what we were really after was Omantel office for the Omani SIM card. Their service was excellent but definitely among the priciest we know. Also in the LuLu Hypermarket complex was the one recommended restaurant in Khasab: Telegraph Island Restaurant. The food was decent, but the canal-side restaurant was not atmospheric. As we were having lunch, the local fishermen waved and smiled. That summed up our first impression of Omani people: friendly, modest, and kind.

Khasab Fort

While the natural scenery is the main draw to a visit to Musandam, the one popular spot in Khasab is the Khasab Fort. Built by the Portuguese in the 17th century atop the much older ancient settlement. The fortress was the main defensive position over the Strait of Hormuz and was eventually taken by Omani forces. It was then tuned in the residence of the local wali and the municipal prison. Sadly, the reclaimed land in front, occupied by the LuLu Hypermarket and our resort, had greatly diminished its historical and natural setting. To compensate it, perhaps, the fort was immaculately restored ten years ago and now houses a wonderful but small ethnographic museum of local culture and history.

The most interesting feature of the fortress is the large circular tower that offered the defense of last resort. Inside was an informative but somewhat dry exhibit of local geography and ecosystem. For us, the highlight of the fort was the replica of two structures indigenous to the Musandam Peninsula. The first was the Bait al-Qufl, the House of Locks. These semi-subterranean stone structures were used by local migratory farming families that store their valuables when they relocate to the coasts during the summer months. These structures are typically constructed of enormous stone slabs; their walls can sometimes reach as much as one meter in thickness. In medieval times, they are often fortified with intricate locking mechanisms. Huge clay jars were placed inside to store essentials such as water, dates, and grains. To prevent theft, these jars were often bigger than the actual door to prevent them from being removed. Therefore, they were placed before the construction was finished.

The second indigenous structure on display was Arish, a summer mountain-dwelling elevated above ground to provide adequate ventilation and protection from local vermin. Supported by stone pillars, the structure was both secure and yet airy. It was remarkable how cool and breezy it was inside...but also interesting how different this architectural typology is seemingly absent in contemporary Omani residential architecture.

Besides the Khasab Fort, the city center surprisingly lacks tourist attractions. Perhaps what makes Khasab's modern existence so fascinating is its role as a smuggling hub to neighboring Iran. Only 55 kilometers from the Iranian shore, Khasab's economic livelihood partly depends on this quietly tolerated activity. A flotilla of fiberglass speedboats frequently crossed to smuggle various goods, most notably consumer electronics, automobiles, and spare parts of specialized machinery. These speedboats may be able to reach Iranian shores in just under an hour under perfect weather. The smuggler used radio signals to coordinate with dedicated watchers to evade coast guards from Oman and Iran.

The central government at Muscat has seen smuggling as necessary for economic developments in the remote Musandam region. We came across a truckful of flat-screen televisions on the road to Khasab. In addition to geography, Oman's tolerant and friend-with-everyone approach to foreign policy made it a natural bridge to the internationally isolated Iran. Not surprisingly, the gradual lift of international sanctions on Iran has significantly impacted Khasab's livelihood. But not all could be blamed on the Western-led sanction relief. Many contribute to the slowing of the smuggling business to the hike in UAE export tax out of their spite against Shia Iran.

Musandam Mountain Tour

After our lunch at the Telegraph Island Restaurant, we returned to the hotel to partake in the "mountain safari," as they call it. The description was vague, and we were unsure what to expect. To our great delight, it was private for just the two of us. Our guide, Mr. Sha, is a Palestinian immigrant accompanied by an Omani driver. His enthusiasm for Oman was truly admirable. He explained that Oman is very tolerant of a new immigrant like himself. Unlike many other Gulf nations, he believes he is treated equally here as Omanis. Having worked extensively in the United Arab Emirates, he greatly admired the stewardship of His Majesty Sultan Qaboos.

As we drove south away from Khasab, the scenery changed immediately south of the airport. The barren landscape was surprisingly serene and beautiful. The jagged mountain cliff created a dramatic shadow; I have never experienced a mountain range like it. This is not the Middle East or Arabia we might immediately think of.

Our first stop was viewpoint over Khor Al Najd. It is the marquee postcard view of Musandam. I have encountered this view countless times on the web during my trip research. Standing in that spot and looking at the spectacular landscape was beautiful. We have finally arrived! The road to the fjord was a little rough; the final stretch involved an unpaved steep incline, and it truly terrified Brian because of his acrophobia. This was our first dose of off-roading in Oman and a good introduction to our journey. There were moments when we thought our jeep might flip over the cliff. Unfortunately, we did not have time to take the switchback hairpin road down to the fjord. Well, maybe next time!

To illustrate the nature of Musandam's fjord (okay... they are not fjord technically, but at least fjord-like), the access to this water was extremely difficult. A case in point was the Khor Al Najd in front of us. From Khasab, the drive out to the water before us was only 20 minutes, and yet it would have taken almost two hours to reach this water by boat by navigating through the Strait of Hormuz to the Indian Ocean. Despite the government's ongoing infrastructure program, providing road access to all settlements in the Musandam region seems like a mammoth task.

Impressive effort by the Sultan Qaboos to provide electric access to all Omanis.

After Khor Al Najd, we ascended toward Jebel al Harim, the "Mountain of Women" in Arabic. It is often said that in pre-modern times, most women of Musandam would take shelter at the mountaintop to avoid the pirates plundering along the coast. Today, many locals still live in their family homes high up in the mountain and make the daily trek to Khasab for work and school. Our guide emphasized to us how these ancestral ties are important to Omanis. True to their traditional values, these mountain dwellings appeared frozen in time. But it would be mistaken to think that people are completely unplugged from the modern world. The Sultan committed to bringing electrical and telecommunication to every Omani home, no matter how remote or difficult.

The extent of infrastructure provided for these communities was impressive. The sight of a series of high-voltage power lines scaling up the rugged mountain explains Omanis' love for their absolute monarch. Every one of these homes is equipped with electricity, cable, and internet services. You might wonder how about the municipal water supply. Well, they got that figured out as well. Every week, municipal water trucks made water delivery for each home through mountain passes all over Oman. Blue water cisterns line the steep mountain road. It is among the Sultan's commitments for equal access to public services to all Omanis.

Our next stop was the high plateau of A’Saye. Among the steep valleys of Jebel al Harim, this modest plain made this one of the most fertile (well, relatively fertile) areas of this otherwise inhospitable region. These high mountain areas are occupied by the Shehi people, an ethnic group distinct from their distant relatives by the coast. They are also among the first groups to settle in the Musandam Peninsula. The fearsome and reclusive of the Shehi are only reinforced by their cliff-side stone dwellings, many of which are still occupied today. At A’Saye, the main settlement of the Shehi, there are still roughly a hundred families growing dates, vegetables, and figs. The valley floor is subdivided among families with a low fence, creating a patchwork of square fields.

The climb was scenic, but we couldn't help noticing the burnout cars by the side of the road. Oman may not be known for its terrible roads, but expecting perfect roads up to remote mountain passes is unrealistic. We were glad that we were not attempting this drive on our own. And sure enough, we soon had a tire puncture for our jeep. It took a solid thirty minutes and the help of a fellow driver to get us back on the road. We also met a lovely Italian family on the final 10-day trip to Oman. We were glad to meet non-German foreign tourists because they seem to account for the overwhelming percentage of European visitors. Not surprisingly, they turned out to be from the German-speaking region of Tyrol.

Further up from A’Saye, we reached another plateau just below the summit. There, we saw the foundation of a long-gone stone village. The plateau is littered with fossilized sea creatures at more than 1,200 meters above sea level. This particular stop also allowed our Omani driver to perform one of his daily Islamic prayers. Honestly, I found his prayer very cathartic in this spectacular setting. In the West, Muslim prayer is often portrayed as something sinister because of the hyper-sensationalized news outlets.

Our final stop for the day was the summit of Jebel al Harim. Well, the summit was occupied by the radio station for the Omani military, so we could only come as close as legally permitted. The view in front of us was spectacular. We were grateful for the delay caused by the burst tire. At that hour, the mountain range is cast with a golden hue. It feels a world away from the bustle of Khasab. In front of us was the road further south to the border town of Dibba. The road along the ridge looked properly terrifying and exhilarating. Since non-GCC nationals are not permitted to cross the border at Dibba, the route would require a full-day round-trip journey from Khasab, unfortunately.

Splendid view at the sunset near the summit of Jebel al Harim. — Splendid view at the sunset near the summit of Jebel al Harim.

Sadly, the arrival of Western tourists inevitably brought on the cultural clash. Our Omani driver picked up an empty glass bottle from the viewpoint. He shook his head and said... "Vodka". It is troubling when foreign tourists are not able to abide by the customs of their host country. In Oman, alcohol consumption is only sanctioned in private homes or licensed establishments. Drinking out in a public place is considered an affront to Muslim sensitivity. To letter a beautiful place with liquor bottles is simply unacceptable.

Beautiful sunset of Arabia.Beautiful sunset of Arabia.

The mountain safari tour may be easily done independently with the right information. However, there are few rental car agencies within Musandam since most visitors drive from the United Arab Emirates. Most tourists who arrived from Muscat joined a packaged tour rather than renting their own 4x4 for a few days. For anyone interested in a self-drive safari, below are the GPS coordinates of the various points of interest in the order of approach from Khasab:

Khor Al Najd (GPS coordinates: 26.091923, 56.325154)
A’Saye (GPS coordinates: 25.997539, 56.212629)
Plateau of fossils (GPS coordinates: 25.959926, 56.207518)
Jebel al Harim (GPS coordinates: 25.974766, 56.233021)

Normal precautions for driving in a desert environment should be taken. Bring plenty of drinking water and start your journey in the morning or early afternoon. Nothing is more terrifying than having a faulty vehicle at dark high up on a mountain pass. The drive from Khasab to the summit of Jebel al Harim should be only 70 minutes without stops or detours. Because there are no gas stations or shops in the mountain, you should stock up on any necessary provisions in Khasab.

Musandam Dhow Cruise

No visit to Musandam is complete without a dhow cruise within Khor Ash-Sham. Most offer a four-hour cruise, which should be enough to see the best Omani fjords and take a dip. Each boat has a large deck covered with traditional carpet and cushions perfect for lounging. We got lucky with a crisp blue sky and light sea breeze. Barely a few minutes out to sea, some fellow passengers were already snoozing. The low hum of the motors and the gentle splash of the gentle waves made it a perfect environment for a nap. But napping with such spectacular scenery around you seemed quite a waste.

The tranquility of this place could not be overstated. The best part of the cruise was that there was no final destination or a marquee landmark. It was truly a leisurely cruise that was stress-free and at peace. There were never-ending refreshments and snacks throughout the sailing, including the cardamom-infused coffee that is uniquely Omani. Was it bad that we were surprised by how genuinely nice and courteous all the staff was? Genuine or not, they made a good impression and representation of Omani hospitality.

There is a common destination for many of these cruises, but we didn't get to visit for technical reasons. That place is the legendary Telegraph Island, which gave rise to the phrase "around the bend.” For a short five years, from 1864 to 1869, Telegraph Island was "the" telegram link between Britain and its vast empire in the East. The strategic importance of the football-field-sized rock was so vital to the empire, so much so the British continued to guard the rock five years after it was decommissioned. Located at the depth of the Elphinstone Inlet, the island is naturally sheltered and a mile away from the coast. Not surprisingly, the locals did not look kindly at the presence of British troops. The local hostility increased the psychological isolation of the island.

Reportedly, every man stationed at the outpost “around the bend” of the Musandam peninsula went mentally insane from the monotony of the surroundings and the oppressive heat of the long summer months. It was not difficult to imagine how this island was essentially a prison. Perhaps it was not unlike the island of Saint Helena, except it was infinitely smaller and far less glamorous.

One definite highlight of a dhow cruise was the company of the pods of bottlenose dolphins. These marine mammals are particularly affected by the sonic vibrations of boat motors. Although not guaranteed on paper, dolphin spotting is almost certain. I experienced how captains skillfully coordinated to arouse dolphins' attention. Crew members were on the constant lookout. Part of the fun was the excitement of our fellow passengers, particularly families with young kids. We had probably five or six sightings during our 6-hour cruise, and it was a great relief for everyone.

Our boat made two stops for swimming and snorkeling. I wouldn't call Musandam the best place for snorkeling because of the lack of coral reefs and somewhat murky water. But something about the salinity made the experience more special than any other. Due to its unique geography, the highly saline water could sometimes appear stagnant. I had the misfortune of swallowing a big gulp as I jumped off the dhow boat. That was undoubtedly embarrassing, and Brian certainly did not forget to capture it on film.

According to many locals, you get identical experiences no matter which tour operator you go with. Even lunch on board is catered by the same restaurant in Khasab. Given the popularity of these cruises, no advanced reservation is necessary. Most dhows are similar and can comfortably accommodate as many as thirty passengers. Chartering your own dhow may not be bad for those traveling in a small group. This is particularly the case for many GCC nationals, for whom gender segregation is good practice.

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Getting There

Khasab

Khasab Fort

Musandam Mountain Tour

Musandam Dhow Cruise

VDNKh - Where USSR Is Still Alive!

My Favorite Views of Oman