The Way to Doi Suthep
Foreign travelers have been flocking to the northern Thai city of Chiang Mai for decades. With numerous temples and cultural sites within Chiang' Mai’s city wall, it is unsurprising that many visitors may experience some “temple fatigue.” So when all the guidebooks labeled the temple atop Doi Suthep as a must-visit, we were somewhat skeptical. In this digital age, it takes a few seconds for anyone to look up a picture of this temple. And to be honest, the images were not particularly impressive and compelling. To first-time visitors to Thailand like me, the place looked neither grand in scale nor architecturally different than those in central Chiang Maia. But given the glowing reviews and the apparent cultural importance to local Thai people, it would be remiss of us to miss out on it during our visit to Chiang Mai.
Officially Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, the temple is often called Doi Suthep, which refers to the mountain. They say that the golden spire of the temple is visible from literally all corners of Chiang Mai. Conversely, the temple also offers a sweeping view of central Chiang Mai. I am embarrassed to admit that the view drew me to Doi Suthep in the first place.
The Journey There
For our last full day in Chiang Mai, we woke up early to hopefully beat the mass of tourists. After our debacles with motorbike rental a few days ago, our option for transportation is settled with songthaew, the ubiquitous shared taxis in Chiang Mai. For the previous days, we have been getting around Chiang Mai on foot or through ride-hailing apps like Grab. The lack of price transparency has always been my least favorite aspect of travel in Southeast Asia. It was like a mental block, and I certainly did have enough travel experience in the region to hone my bargaining skills. After standing on the street for a few minutes, we finally decided to flag down a songthaew. Through some gestures and saying Doi Suthep repeatedly, we eventually negotiated a one-way trip to the temple for ฿100 each. Though it was still more expensive than what I read about the alleged fare, we decided not to hardball the driver to save ฿25 each.
Enjoying the ride on songthaew, the local taxi.
One of the worst things about price negotiation is that I inevitably delay all the existing passengers. That was especially the case when we learned that our fellow passengers were going to the airport for a flight to Singapore. I could only imagine the anxiety they experienced; I would have been cursing if we were in their position. Five minutes into the journey, we were instructed out of the van in the middle of a busy road and were handed off to another van. We boarded without knowing what was going on or how the payment may be handled and could only pray for the best. Along the way, we met a middle-aged British woman living in Chiang Mai for a few years. She showed us the inner workings of the Songthaew system and explained how drivers often coordinate with each other to get passengers from one point of the city to another.
Amazingly, we got the whole songthaew to ourselves for much of our journey. It was a solid half-hour drive on the switchback mountain road. At the motorbike rental place, they often classify rentals into two categories: those who could make up to Doi Suthep and those who couldn’t. The modern mountain road to the temple was constructed in 1935. Before its construction, the devotee made the strenuous day-long pilgrimage to the temple. Amazingly, this road was constructed out of only six months by a mass of volunteers with primitive tools.
Looking for the funicular.
The impressive naga staircase.
Before long, we were dropped off at the base of the temple. Judging from the number of street vendors and stalls, it was immediately apparent how popular Doi Suthep is for Thai and foreigners alike. The official entry to the temple complex was through the steep 306-step staircase flanked by two continuous mythical serpents, Naga. Or if you are lazy like us, you could get to the temple with a 70-second funicular rider at the cost of ฿40.
As convenient as it seems, the long waiting line may become more time-consuming during the middle of the day. And don’t even think about getting a spectacular view; you will travel in a metal box through a subterranean tunnel and regret not taking the stairs. After getting out of the funicular, we made the necessary preparations to enter the temple, which meant stowing our shoes and purchasing a small offering of flowers. We were ready to explore Wat Phra That!
The Story Behind Wat Phra That Doi Suthep
Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is one of northern Thailand's most sacred temples. The legend is that this temple/monastery complex was first established in 1383 by King Keu Naone of Lanna Kingdom. Like many great temples, the structure was commissioned to house a holy relic of Buddha. The story goes that a shoulder bone was found in the ancient capital of Sukhothai Thani and brought to Chiang Mai by a traveling monk. One-half of the relic was broken off and stored in the nearby royal temple of Wat Suan Dok.
Doi Suthep.
Locals say that the king ordered the other half to be placed on top of a rare white elephant and let loose in the forest; the elephant eventually died at Doi Suthep and inadvertently selected the site of the new shrine. The more colorful account even says that the white elephant trumpeted three times on the spot before dropping dead; the event was interrupted as an omen to the King for the immediate construction of a temple.
Doi Suthep.
Doi Suthep.
Doi Suthep.
The center of the temple was compact. It is organized around the central chedi. Clad in gold, the angular and tiered structure houses the relic. The supernatural power of the holy relic was said to be able to glow in the dark, vanish, levitate, or even replicate itself. The importance of the temple is attributed not only to the relic but also to the political symbolism associated with the Lanna Kingdom and regional identity. While a unified kingdom today, Thailand’s different regions of Thailand had distinct histories and foreign influences. The central golden chedi reflects the style of the stupa from modern-day Myanmar and Sri Lanka.
Prayers at Doi Suthep.
The offerings at Doi Suthep.
Surrounding the chedi are a series of pavilions and chapels serving the pilgrim’s needs and places of learning for scholars and monks. All around the inner courtyards are countless sculptures of Buddha. Just as one might get bored with the repetitiveness of Buddha imagery in Chiang Mai, the statue collection at Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is full of personality and unrivaled craftsmanship. The Buddha takes on varying personalities, wardrobes, and storylines from jade to crystal to silver.
One of hundreds of Buddha statue at Doi Suthep.
One of hundreds of Buddha statue at Doi Suthep.
Mucalinda, a snake-like being, who protected the Gautama Buddha from the elements after his enlightenment.
Similar to other key Buddhist pilgrimage sites, such as the Temple of Sacred Tooth in Kandy, these elaborately carved statues were donated worldwide and reflect the diversity of the Buddhist faith. My favorite was the statue with Mucalinda, a snake-like being who protected the Buddha from the elements after his enlightenment. The abundance of snakes in Buddhist symbolism in this part of Asia always seems somewhat out of place for me. Growing up in Taiwan, a nation with numerous Buddhist temples, I don’t remember ever seeing any snake imagery. It seems so contrary to the serenity of Buddhism I grew up in.
It is All About People
Despite our best intention to visit Doi Suthep in the early morning, we were too lazy to get there by sunset, as my fellow travelers advised. The entire temple complex was already inundated with pilgrims and tourists when we arrived. While we did not enjoy the sunrise's peace and quiet, the atmosphere was vibrant and festive. Quite frankly, I don’t mind the crowd and the bustle. After all, what was the point of a pilgrimage site without any presence of pilgrims?
Photographing pilgrims posing was part of the fun.
Photographing pilgrims posing was part of the fun.
As in our experiences in Kandy, the most enjoyable aspect of a temple visit is witnessing the joy of pilgrims. As a child, I enjoyed visiting the local temples not to worship but to observe all the rituals and mysticism. Funny enough, I attended a Buddhist temple summer camp in fourth grade. And yet, I almost learned nothing about the religion or any of the rituals. All I remembered was the delicious Buddhist vegetarian meal at the canteen.
As much as the architecture and all the gilded statues are dazzling, it was just as exciting to take photographs of tourists and pilgrims posing in front of the great chendi. There seemed to be as many domestic tourists as foreign ones. And the joy of pilgrims was charming. It was particularly fun to see young children posing solemnly for their parents. I can certainly remember back in my childhood when my parents asked me to strike a religious pose when visiting various temples around Taiwan.
Prayer at Doi Suthep.
Without knowing much about the deeper meaning, we joined all the pilgrims for a counterclockwise “circumambulation” around the central chedi. It was a crowded scheme; it was quite fun to figure out how to cut into the stream of pilgrims. Many pilgrims around the courtyard were clad in white and recited the Buddhist chant. Numerous Buddhist monks also joined them.
Prayers at Doi Suthep.
Prayers at Doi Suthep.
In an adjacent hall, the pilgrims kneeled before senior monks to receive blessings. It is always interesting how religious rituals often seem similar across different faiths. Substituting the garb and architectural background, it could be a Catholic ceremony. But unlike Christianity, worship in Eastern religions always seems less constrained by the rigid worship schedule. I always find Eastern worship to be more organic and freer-spirited.
Enjoying the Lighter Sides
The lower terrace is one of the most popular spots within the temple complex. It offers unparalleled and expansive views of Chiang Mai. The valley of Chiang Mai is expansive, a sharp contrast to the dramatic topography at Doi Suthep. The city of Chiang Mai was surprisingly compact, as we could see the vast fields of farmland surrounding the valley. At the foothill of the mountain would be the Chiang Mai Airport. We were able to look at the jets landing from above. Even on a clear day like this and with the assistance of a flight tracking app, it was still difficult to spot the plane. I had a new respect for air traffic controllers who can spot tiny planes with the naked eye.
Lower terrace overlooking the city.
Along the southern edge are numerous balconies and minor shrines dedicated to numerous royals and even deities from other faiths, such as the Hindu god Ganesha. My favorite aspect of Buddhism was the ability to adapt and coexist with other religions and local cultural traditions. Aside from various shrines, there are also a series of carillons and a statue of a white elephant dedicated to the “founding'" elephant. Before long, we were back to the serpent staircase. As we descended the stairs, we certainly regretted not taking the stairs earlier. The continuous snake-shaped balustrade is said to be the longest and the most spectacular in Thailand.
Lotus flowers, anyone?
The impressive naga staircase.
At the base of the staircase, we saw about half a dozen young children, all dressed in the traditional outfits of the local hill tribes. They were adorable and undoubtedly the magnet of attention. As they posed for foreign tourists for tips, it was difficult not to feel a little unease about this gentle form of exploitation of young children, especially in the context of cultural appropriation. But at the same time, it was perhaps an elitist of me to pass such judgment. I can’t help lingering a few minutes to determine whether there were chaperons nearby. You had to admire their entrepreneurship to a degree.
Offerings at Doi Suthep.
Young children in the costume of the adjacent hill tribes.
Our visit to Doi Suthep was relatively short, but there is so much more on offer in the vicinities that I had to miss out. Chiefly among them is the Bhubing Palace, the actual winter residence of the Thai royal family. Another popular stop is Hmong Village, the tourist-ready ‘village’ of the hill tribes. The whole area is designated as a national park filled with scenic waterfalls and hiking trails. Indeed, there is a well-established "monk trial” for those interested in visiting Doi Suthep in its original way.
