Třebíč - The Town of Ghostly Spirits
Away from the bustle of Prague, tourists seem to flock to Český Krumlov in drove. Of course, there is no doubt that the popularity of Český Krumlov is well deserved, but we believe that the beauty and charm of the Czech Republic are best experienced in its countryside. Despite five decades behind the Iron Curtain, most provincial Czech towns seem to escape the urban renewal typical of the Socialist regime. With a few exceptions, such as the industrial city of Zlín (famously the hometown of Ivana Trump), rural Czech towns and villages retain much of their original characters and architecture. From stately town squares to towering town halls, many Czech towns share many commonalities, yet each has a unique ambiance and character.
View of Jewish Quarter and Saint Procopius' Basilica from our hotel room.
With Rick Steve’s guidebook, I planned my two-day trip, connecting the Moravian city of Olomouc to Český Krumlov in Bohemia. We chose to visit a trio of small towns, what I would refer to as three “T”: Třebíč, Telč, and Třeboň. This route allowed us to visit two UNESCO World Heritage Sites and is the most logical path to Český Krumlov. We have read that this part of the Czech Republic is perhaps the best region for an independent road trip in the former Eastern Bloc nations.
Even though it is possible to visit these towns using a decent regional bus network, we had the good fortune to get our own car to explore the Czech countryside at our own pace. Outside of metropolitan Prague, driving in the country was a breeze. Because I did not know how to drive a manual and was too cheap to pay for the expensive automatic car, Brian was forced to drive me around while I took in the beauty of the countryside.
The “New Town”
After our afternoon visit to the Punkva Caves (Punkevní Jeskyně) near Blansko, we arrived at the town of Třebíč around late afternoon. Our lodging for the night was Hotel & Apartments U Černého Orla, located right on the main square. We were given a room looking over the River Jihlava per our request. The room also gave us a great view of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites we would visit the next day: Třebíč’s Jewish Quarter and the adjacent Saint Procopius' Basilica. Much to my dismay, the weather was less than optimal, so we decided to limit our sightseeing for the day to a stroll around Charles Square (Karlovo Náměstí). Said to be the third-largest square in the country, Charles Square is ringed by an impressive row of state merchant houses.
The “Painted House” (Malovany Dum.
Třebíč Town Hall (Městská Věž).
The most impressive among them is the “Painted House” (Malovany Dum) at the square's southwest corner. The house is one of the most spectacular Renaissance buildings in the Czech Republic. It was constructed for prominent Italian merchants. The story goes that the merchant built this house for the woman he loved, and today, it is a popular art gallery and place for all types of civic ceremonies. The house facade is covered by sgraffito, an Italian painting technique with the layering of plaster colored with contrasting colors to a moist surface. The preservation or reconstruction of this delicate mural is awe-inspiring. Unfortunately, we were there too late in the day to pay a visit inside.
Just behind the Painted Hose is the Třebíč Town Hall (Městská Věž). One common thing in towns like Třebíč is its soaring town hall tower. It seems to be the norm that town halls, not churches, have the tallest and most prominent silhouettes in small towns. The tower was open for visitors and served as somewhat of the town’s tourist center. The bell tower has several exhibits showcasing town development and an impressive collection of bells and clockwork. Built around the mid-14th century, the tower was part of a larger fortification system and has the largest public clock in the Czech Republic. Of course, the best feature of the tower is its upper balcony, which provides a commanding view of the city. It was the best spot for us to take in the sunset.
Enjoying an evening of Svatby pana Voka, a 1970 comedy film.
I am glad to snap a picture of the film’s title.
As night fell, the residents of Třebíč gathered for an outdoor movie showing at the town square. It was a low-key affair and quite an amazing setting to take in a slice of local Czech life without a tourist. This being the Czech Republic, the movie showing was accompanied by a popcorn stand and a mobile beer-mobile. Even though we did not know a single word of the movie, it was a fun way to spend the evening in this beautiful provincial town. Upon returning home, I found out that we saw a 1970 comedy film called Svatby pana Voka (Weddings of Mr. Vok), which tells the story of the love life of a local noble, Peter Vok of Rosenberg. Upon returning home, we tried to find the film on YouTube. Unfortunately, there are still no English subtitles.
Jewish Quarter & Jewish Cemetery
Any visit to Třebíč’s must include a tour of the Jewish Quarter. It is the largest intact historical Jewish settlement in Europe that survived the ravage of World War II. Situated on the north bank of the river, the original Jewish Ghetto was once the home of 1,500 Jews in its golden age back in the late 19th century. This little neighborhood wedged between the river and the foothill of the mountain is the oldest part of Třebíč’ and was once shared between Jews and Christians. Due to overcrowding, Christian residents moved across the river and established the “new town” with its impressive square.
The New (Rear) Synagogue is the center of life of the Jewish Ghetto.
Like any other Jewish settlements in central Europe, the Jewish population, numbering around 300 at the time, were rounded up and sent to Nazi concentration camps. After the war, only 10 of them survived and returned to Třebíč, and the town has no Jewish residents officially. Amazingly, the Jewish Quarter survived both the destruction of the Nazis but also the threat of demolition during the Communist era. Ironically, poor soil conditions helped save the ghetto from the urban renewal of the 1960s. Today, the Jewish Quarter is largely inhabited by Třebíč’s Roma population. Unlike the Jewish ghetto in Krakow or Prague, Třebíč’’s neighborhood seemed frozen in time, without redevelopment or gentrification.
The preserved interior of New (Rear) Synagogue.
The preserved interior of New (Rear) Synagogue.
The local and Czech national governments look to preserve the architecture and memory of Třebíč’s Jewish Quarter. When Třebíč was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003, the town certainly established itself on the tourism map. The Jewish Quarter is the only historical site outside of Israel that has received international recognition. The whole neighborhood is in such a good state of preservation that little has been altered since the 1930s. The historical record of the ghetto is also well-preserved; various public buildings, such as the rabbi’s house, hospital, and neighborhood bakery, are preserved.
Jewish Cemetery.
The most prominent site in the ghetto is the so-called “Rear Synagogue.” Constructed in the late 17th century, the synagogue today is a museum dedicated to Jewish history and offers regular guided tours. In addition to a beautiful model of the Ghetto, as it appeared in its heyday, the synagogue’s main draw is the beautifully restored fresco at the temple's main hall. Even though it is not a particularly large space, there is an undoubted sense of grandeur and mysticism. The simple architecture and natural light are such a stark contrast with the nearby Christian churches. I may even dare to say that it is one of the most magnificent religious buildings I have visited in the Czech Republic.
Jewish Cemetery.
Jewish Cemetery.
Another major sight is located up on the hill: the Jewish Cemetery. It was a pleasant 20-minute hike up from the Rear Synagogue. The incline is relatively steep, but we were rewarded with a beautiful view of central Třebíč’. The cemetery includes approximately 2,000 marked gravestones, and it is estimated that as many as 11,000 Jews were buried here. The semi-abandoned state of the cemetery is in remarkably good condition despite the overgrowing vine and ground cover. With burials as early as the early 17th century and as recently as the 1920s, the tombstone design tracks the evolution of the architectural and artistic style of the Czech Republic. It is also said that the evolutionary design also tracks the increased assimilation of Třebíč’s Jews within the larger Moravian Society through the centuries.
Saint Procopius Basilica
Before heading out of town, we felt obligated to stop by the Saint Procopius Basilica. Located conveniently next to the Jewish Quarter, the church is co-inscribed with the Jewish Ghetto as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Interestingly, there seems to be rather scant information on the history and significance of the church in guidebooks and online. As is sometimes the case with many other listed sites in Europe, I sometimes wonder about the merits or logic of UNESCO inscription. According to Rick Steve’s guidebook, the significance of the basilica seems to be its unique architectural heritage: a perfect synthesis of Gothic and Romanesque architecture. It is said that the church showcases an early influence of Western architecture (aka. Gothic style) in the ecclesiastical architecture of Central Europe.
The high Gothic pulpit.
The heavy Romanesque exterior.
Even for an architect like myself, I didn’t find the church to be particularly fascinating, to be honest. This might be just one of those times that high expectations could ruin the enjoyment of a site. We probably did not spend enough time exploring every bit of the basilica. Only after we left did I read somewhere that the highlight was the medieval crypt that I didn’t even know to visit.
