Moscow Metro - My Kind of Russian Standard
Being a New Yorker, I have come to count on subways as the matter of daily life and the lifeline of this metropolis of 12+ million. A couple of years ago, New York’s Metropolitan Transport Authority (MTA) opened a portion of the long-anticipated Second Avenue Subway line with great fanfare. After 88 years of planning and on-and-off construction, the first five stations of the new subway line along the Upper East Side became the new Instagram spot for tourists and locals alike. Quite frankly, I was mildly annoyed with all these stations' over-the-top reviews and hype. Granted, these are the first new subway stations to open in New York in the past few decades, but they are definitely overrated both in terms of their architecture and public arts.
Mayakovskaya (Маяковская) Station, arguably the most architecturally significant station in Moscow.
The unfortunate state of public transport infrastructure in the United States has been well-documented and publicized. I think New Yorkers have come to embrace our dilapidated public transit with pride. A friend once told me that she enjoyed the grittiness of the New York MTA because it animates an "aura” of history, and the stations are "uniquely beautiful.” Such praises are perhaps just a coping mechanism, but they risk being perceived as willfully ignorant or unnecessarily prideful.
During my five-month stay in Moscow as an exchange student at the Moscow Architectural Institute (МАРХИ), I acquainted myself with one of the most efficient and magnificent subway systems in the world. What distinguishes Moscow Metro from the rest is not only the architectural beauty of the stations but also the punctuality and cleanliness of the whole system. During rush hours, the train frequency of most lines ranges from 95 to 110 seconds. You can find a train arrival countdown clock at the end of each platform; the countdown arrival is accurate down to the second. Of all my misgivings for Russian society, their metro system in Moscow flawless. Moscow Metro is a testament to Russian artistry, engineering, and ingenuity.
The entry pavilion by avant-garde architect Nikolai Ladovsky for Krasnye Vorota (Кра́сные воро́та) Station.
The unabashed Soviet realism at Kiyevskaya (Киевская) Station.
The architectural beauty of the Moscow Metro is well-known among travelers. More than any other system, each station has been designed with great attention to detail, from the individual light fixtures to the custom ventilation grilles. In many ways, these stations are uniquely and individually branded spaces, each often inspired by their individual station namesake. Unlike the Second Avenue Subway stations, the architecture and ornamentation are seamlessly integrated. The Soviet government spared no expense with the construction of the Moscow Metro. A large share of the national GDP of the USSR was directed to its construction. Many of its marble and precious stones were quarried from as far as Georgia and the Russian Far East.
Moscow Metro As Political Tool
Of course, the grandeur of the metro system should be "appreciated" through a lens of Socialist ideology. Often referred to as the "Palace of the People,” the metro is still the best example of an ideal Socialist state. The efficient and nominal fare structure made it as much a 'democratic space' within the Soviet framework. First conceived during the waning days of Tsarist Russia, the construction of the first came into full force with the establishment of the Soviet government in 1934. Many of the most celebrated architects were drafted to construct these underground palaces in the fervor of Soviet patriotism. The revolution and the defense of the motherland were two key ideas of the USSR and its socialist regime. These ideas were celebrated in mosaics and sculptures that appeared as early as the line opened on May 15, 1935.
The above-ground entry pavilion of Taganskaya (Тага́нская) Station.
Under the Soviet Union, all art was only worthwhile as a form of political expression. These propaganda arts are as beautiful as they are terrifying. For instance, some of my favorite stations are those dedicated to the individual Soviet Socialist Republic (SSR), such as Belarus and Ukraine. This "celebration' of ethnic diversity across the USSR all seems very ominous given the intense Russification of the Stalinist regime. During the height of World War Two (or the "Great Patriotic War" in Russian"), all the existing stations were doubled as fortified bomb shelters. In the subsequent decades of the Cold War with the West, they were transformed into effective nuclear shelters. Almost half a million citizens would shelter at the platform, subway cars, and tunnels. An underground city was created with numerous amenities, such as a hair salon and a public library. The monumental and solemn architecture could be both intimidating and inspiring. It is not difficult to imagine the fervent patriotism and collective belonging during those darkest times.
Taganskaya (Тага́нская) Station
Hammer and sickle symbol at the Proletarskaya (Пролетарская) Station.
Not surprisingly, the Soviet emblems and the imagery of Lenin and Stalin still adorn most stations built in the Soviet period. There has never been any campaign to erase its Soviet legacy or to reinterpret it. For the average Moscovites, Communist symbols today are remembrances of the past rather than the continuous endorsement of the ideology. But during my time in Moscow, I could sense that most riders were quite oblivious to the grandeur or history of these places. Moscovites have taken the system for granted and could be just as annoyed with any delay or service interruption as all New Yorkers would.
Tulskaya (Тульская) Station
Sportivnaya (Спорти́вная) Station.
Kuznetskiy Most (Кузне́цкий Мост) Station, the station for the school I attended.
For anyone interested in art and history, the Moscow Metro is an excellent underground museum, and it is all yours for less than 55 руб. I used to spend many evenings riding the metro after school to visit some of the magnificent stations, and it is the best and cheapest museum in Moscow. Unfortunately, there is no affordable/convenient guide to the Metro system. I recommend mapping out the stations of interest and planning your journey accordingly. For those interested in the development and architecture of Moscow Metro, Hidden Urbanism published by Dom Publishers, is an excellent resource.
Tips For Using the Moscow Metro
Until a few years ago, almost all signage within the Metro system was in the Cyrillic script only. It certainly paid to memorize the conversion to the Latin alphabet. As of 2018, bilingual subway maps are available at selected stations.
To my knowledge, there is NO explicit prohibition against photography within the metro system. However, I was frequently stopped by security personnel and station staff and had my photos inspected. They typically want to ensure you are not taking photos of anything potentially sensitive.
As frequent and punctual as the Moscow Metro is, it may not be as convenient as it appears. The walking distance between stations on the same metro line could be as far as two miles. Because of its tremendous depth, the transfer between lines could take five to seven minutes of fast walking through a series of vestibules, escalators, and passageways.
Many of the older subway cars have no electronic display. Orienting the direction of travel, you could listen to the gender of the station announcement. The male announcements indicate the downtown bound-train, while the female announcements are vice versa. This may be very much of a gender stereotype, but it is quite useful.
The entrances to the Moscow Metro could be difficult to spot, particularly those closer to the city center. Many are located inside the courtyards of the building blocks that are nearly invisible from the streets.
