LX Factory - Hipster Central of Lisbon
During our years of travel, I learned to ask the locals two questions whenever I visited a modern metropolis like Lisbon. First, what is your favorite ethnic food in your country/city? The undisputed answer would be from its former colonies, such as Mozambique or Angola in Lisbon and Portugal. The second question would be, what new trendy places draw in the young urbanites? All over the world. The young entrepreneurs have gravitated toward former industrial space for cheap real estate and the opportunity to break the social conformity of wealthier/established neighborhoods.
A visit to the storied district of Belém is a must on any trip to Lisbon. It was a completely mad scheme on our day of the visit, which happened to be the infamous "free-morning" at Jerónimos Monastery. To save the €10 admission ticket for the monastery, one should be prepared to stand in the blazing Mediterranean sun for roughly 90 minutes. After taking in the initial shock of the line, we decided to make a beeline to the Monument of Discoveries (Padrão dos Descobrimentos). Frustrated with the crowd and my own trip planning, we decided to go for an early lunch at this funk place I read about.
Don’t let the appearance of LX Factory fool you.
Many travel blogs have suggested this warehouse district called LX Factory. Honestly, I was a little suspicious. I am honestly not a particularly big fan of the hipster environment in the United States. Rather than as a hub of creativity, it could sometimes feel like a ground of snobbery. These areas often felt like they belonged in the Upper East Side of Manhattan with €6 for a cup of cappuccino. At the other end of the spectrum, you have commune-like Freetown Christiania in Copenhagen, where the lack of rules is enforced through the strict code of conduct (ironically!).
But we were very surprised that LX Factory exuded vibrant and genuine energy. They hit the right balance between free spirit and commerce. Situated in Alcântara and at the foot of the 25 de Abril Bridge, the vibrant quarter has an air of authenticity and seems to be constantly changing. It is a place that seems to be worth coming back to year after year. When we visited, the central spine of the complex was teeming with artisans, booksellers, and antique dealers. The atmosphere was lively without being boisterous. Here are some of the highlights:
1300 Taberna
One of the most enjoyable meals on this trip was at 1300 Taberna, a trendy hipster restaurant housed in a former printing press. Because we arrived early for lunch, the cavernous industrial space appeared unusually empty and somewhat intimidating. The decor is quirky without being heavy-handed. The service is warm but relaxed. In addition to modern Portuguese fare with a Spanish twist, their extensive craft beer selections are sure to quench your thirst after a morning in Belém. The food was terrific and could even be considered fine dining if not served in a funky setting. I almost feel guilty to say that my polvo dish was perhaps the best I had in Portugal!
Excellent lunch at 1300 Taberna.
Landeau
In particular, we have to recommend Landeau’s, a cafe dedicated to just one kind of chocolate cake. It has been attributed as the best chocolate cake in Lisbon, and some publications, such as the Food and Wine Magazine, even labeled it as one of the best in the world. Somehow, you know you are into someplace special when only one item is on the menu. Landeau's chocolate cakes are dense and yet refreshing. It is as if chocolate truffle and chocolate chiffon cake made a baby!
You won’t regret getting a slice.
Even if you could not make it to LX Factory, don't miss their second location in the trendy district of Chiado in Central Lisbon. Having tasted the famous Sachertorte chocolate cake/torte from Vienna, I could confidently proclaim Landreau's is far superior, and this may just be the best cake in Europe! For those addicted to this cake, try this recipe from the New York Times at home.
Ler Devagar
Perhaps one of the most famous bookstores in Lisbon, Ler Devagar is a dream of not just book lovers but also those of us who pretend to be book lovers. A combination of exhibition space, cafe, and bars, this temple to books is reminiscent of the Strand Bookstore in New York City. But it has a decidedly relaxed and cozy atmosphere. Everyone seems to be able to find their little cozy nook to dive into their favorite books. To add to its ambiance, the antique printing press and the infamous flying bicycle sculpture added to readers' imaginations.
