Rendezvous In Anjou

Among all the regions of France, the historical area of Anjou is not exactly a household name. You may have heard of the name Anujou because of Anjou's pears and grapes, but I suspect few know Anjou is a physical place. I found this region particularly charming on my recent trip to the Loire Valley. Even though there is plenty to see and do, there were hardly any other tourists during our visit. Justifiably, the great châteaus of the Loire drew away most foreign tourists, but Anjou deserves a second look for its trove of underappreciated treasure. It reminded me why France is the most visited destination in Europe.

In all honesty, what drew me to Anjou was Fontevraud l'Hôtel, a beautiful boutique hotel. Not only is this hotel a dream for hotel connoisseurs, but it is also located within the walls of the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud. As hotel guests, we were free to roam the ground of the historic abbey after dark. This is, without any question, one of the most unique accommodations I have ever stayed in, as you can read my experience here. Because the abbey is on the periphery of the standard tourist route, I took this opportunity to explore this hidden gem of a region.

Château de Montsoreau

After checking into Fontevraud l'Hôtel, we drove fifteen minutes to Ververt, a charming Michelin-listed eatery in the little village of Montsoreau. This has been a desirable spot for various powers that have ruled the region for the last century. Situated near the confluence of the Loire and the Vienne River, Montsoreau controlled the vital river traffic into the vast interior. Wedged between the river and the riverside cliff, the village never developed into a city. However, this geographic constraint helped Montsoreau preserve its unique charm. Indeed, the village was honored as one of “the most beautiful villages of France” (Les Plus Beaux Villages de France).

The foremost legacy of the village’s strategic importance is Château de Montsoreau, right on the riverfront. First established in the 10th century, the fortress was unique as the only château constructed on the river. The fortress saw intense action during the dynastic feud of the House Plantagenet between King Henry II and his wife and sons. Montsoreau’s military fortress was converted into a pleasure palace after the Hundred Years' War ended, like many other military castles in the region. The château we see today certainly looks more leisurely than intimidating. The Renaissance-style château may have high walls and crenellation, but its fanciful turrets and large windows gave away the true purpose of this pleasure château.

The village’s main thoroughfare ran right in front of the fortress. After visiting about a dozen châteaus over the previous few days, Château de Montsoreau’s unique geography was a refreshing change. A handsome wooden model inside the château gave us a glimpse of how the riverside château might look like a few centuries ago. It certainly would look far more picturesque back then. Today's château is only about half its original size, with remnants of the collapsed towers still visible. This is probably the smallest château we visited on this trip, and we had the whole place to ourselves.

Tim has not been particularly kind to Château de Montsoreau. By the beginning of the 20th century, the structure was so disrepair that the local senator asked for urgent intervention to prevent the complete collapse. Finding a purpose for this historical structure has always been a challenge. The restoration was finally completed in 2001 with great fanfare. The longevity of the château was further cemented when it was turned into an art museum in 2015. Today, it is home to the Château de Montsoreau-Museum of Contemporary Art.

The contrast between the historic château and contemporary arts was jarring.

The museum is leased to Philippe Méaille, a noted French author and art collector. The museum’s permanent exhibit consists mainly of Méaille’s contemporary art collection. It just happens that this little museum has one of the world's most extensive collections of Art & Language, a conventional art movement first founded in the United Kingdom. I can’t say I understand or appreciate this type of art. To me, they are neither impressive nor inspiring. I can’t help wondering whether the art collection contributes to the low visitor number. However, we enjoyed the juxtaposition between the avant-garde art and the historical ambiance of the château. My parents shook their heads as they walked past galleries of blank canvases with lettering on them.

The highlight of the visit was to climb up to the upper terrace of the château. The riverside vista was stunning, and I was surprised by how few boats were on this beautiful river. The only vessel I spotted was a flat-bottomed wooden boat. I suspected it was one of a few boats that shuttle tourists up and down the Loire. Most of the Loire châteaus are situated on the river or one of Loire’s tributaries, so it was surprising that the Loire river cruise was not more popular. The Loire is known as the last natural river in France, so it should have been the most popular river cruise destination.

We also had a grand view of the largest artwork from the upper terrace: A Bad Place. The oversized lettering was etched into the ground and could only be seen from the high up. This piece immediately reminded me of the SOS sign one would set up on a remote island. It was not until later that I learned the term “A Bad Place” was chosen because there was no equivalence in French. It was also amusing that such a beautiful and picturesque château could be labeled a ‘bad place.’

Château de Montsoreau may not be grand, but it is awfully picturesque.

Overall, Château de Montsoreau was slightly underwhelming. Even so, it is still well worth a visit for anyone traveling through the region. To get a better view of the castle from afar, we drove up the narrow streets up the hill. The lanes were so narrow that I am surprised they were not designated one-way. After climbing up another steep staircase, we were greeted with the postcard-perfect view of the château. Best of all, it gave us a different perspective of beautiful Montsoreau, one of the most picturesque French villages.

Château de Saumur

Fifteen minutes from Montsoreau is the city of Saumur. The city occupies a strategic place at the confluence of the Loire and Thouet Rivers and was first settled by the pre-Celtic tribes. Nowadays, the city is known for its thriving wine industry, but most visitors are drawn here by the city’s impressive château on the hilltop, which can be spotted from well outside of town. Château de Saumur may not be the most prominent Loire château, but it stands out as the most romantic we visited on this trip. The octagonal towers, fanciful turrets, and spires made this the perfect castle in every sense of the word.

The original fortress was built in the 19th century next to a Benedictine abbey that housed the relic of Saint Florent, the great evangelist of Anjou. Over the centuries, the fortress saw plenty of battles and gradually expanded into an impressive defensive complex. The whole ensemble may appear graceful today, but it must be intimidating for the invaders. In the 14th century, Louis I, the Duke of Anjou, took up residence here and transformed the palace into a fanciful palace. The grand construction project took several decades to complete.

The glorious splendor of the château is memorialized by Très Riches Heures du Duc de Berry. Translated as “The Very Rich Hours of the Duke of Berry” in English, this 15th-century work by the Limbourg brothers is probably the most famous and celebrated illuminated manuscript ever created. The manuscript was commissioned for the royal library by the Duke of Berry. The meticulously painted illuminations portray religious scenes and the everyday life of the high medieval age. They are some of the best visual documentation of medieval life, such as farming practices and fashions.

This view of Château de Saumur was memorialized by *Très Riches Heures du Duc de Berry*.

The highlight of the 206-page manuscript is the calendar miniatures. Each month is represented with pastoral scenes and monuments in the background. Representing the month of September is nothing other than Château de Saumur. According to the depiction, the château was even grander and more decorated than today. There were tons more chimneys and crenelations and a few more towers. It was even more fairytale-like than Germany’s Neuschwanstein Castle.

I am surprised that the city decided not to restore the château to its 15th-century splendor. After the castle ceased to be a noble residence in the 17th century, the structure was used as an ammunition depot and later a prison. During that time, unintended explosions of ammunition were common and caused substantial damage over this period. It was further damaged during the world wars. It was not until the 1990s that the castle was restored. The most notable element of the restoration is an oversized gilded fleur-de-lis on top of one of the towers. Just imagine how magnificent the fortress would look if all ten pinnacles were restored.

I secretly hoped they would install a *fleur-de-lis* on top of each tower.

The approach into the château was through a steep ramp over the moat. Greeting visitors at the entrance is a lifesize sculpture of a horse painted in bright colors; it certainly seemed odd. It was not until later that I learned Saumur was home to France’s most famous riding school. The Cadre Noir, or Black Cadre, was first founded as a military academy in Versailles and was transferred to Saumur in 1828. It is supposedly one of the four primary equestrian schools in the world. This may explain why the top floor of the château is dedicated to all things related to horses and equestrian arts.

The château is now a municipal museum with a wide-ranging exhibition covering. Officially named Decorative Arts and Horse Museum, the château has a good collection of local ceramics, silverworks, and historic artifacts. However, the most popular items here seemed to be a temporary exhibition dedicated to J.R.R. Tolkien. At the heart of this exhibition were fourteen enormous tapestries based on Tolkien’s design. They were the product of a 2016 collaboration between the author’s estate and the famed artisans in Aubusson, France. Even as someone who knows nothing about The Hobbit, I found the series of tapestries on display endlessly fascinating and beautiful. During our visit, we saw many school groups coming through the château. It was safe to say all the kids were more interested in The Hobbits than some old ceramic plates.

The outdoor theater outside of the Château de Saumur.

The château’s viewing tower was closed when we visited. Fortunately, we still had a magnificent view of the city and the Loire from the courtyards. The Church of Saint Peter’s massive spire was on eye level before us; it reminded us just how high up the château is in the city. Although Château de Saumur is not a popular stop for foreign tourists, it is easily one of the most memorable châteaus we visited on this trip. The château complex has many public amenities, including an outdoor amphitheater, cafes, and a large boutique. I can’t help feeling jealous that the people of Saumur have such a magnificent civic space in their backyard.

The spire of the Church of Saint Peter and the skyline of historic Saumur.

With a population of 26,000, Saumnur is hardly a big city, but it still exudes the cosmopolitan chic you would expect from a regional capital. And compared to most “cities” in the Loire Valley, Saumur seemed like the place I would like to move to. As much as I enjoyed our magical stay at the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud, I can’t help thinking it would have been great to stay in a bigger city like Saumur. Since we had only limited time, we only had the chance to explore a small section of the historic center. Saint Peter’s Square may be diminutive in size, but it was hopping with young people sipping Aperol spritz.

The half-timber buildings of historic Saumur.

Lining the square are half-timber buildings from the 15th and 16th centuries and neo-classical houses. Many buildings are clad with local limestone, giving the city a uniform appearance. This stretch of the Loire has plenty of limestone (tuffeau) cliffs and is vital in shaping Saumur’s local industry and identity. On the way to Saumur, we saw plenty of wineries take advantage of the constant temperature inside networks of tuffeau tunnels. According to the local tourism board, visiting all the wineries on bikes along the Loire is one of the most popular activities in Saumur.

The Mushroom Museum of Saumur

Speaking of tuffeau stones, mushroom growing is another industry that takes advantage of the unique geography around Saumur. The development of mushrooms growing here was accidental. As workers quarried the limestone from the cliffside, an extensive network of tunnels was dug and left abandoned. At the time, Parisians had been known to grow mushrooms in medieval catacombs. People of Saumur quickly realized that the quarry tunnels provide similar climatic conditions as the catcomb. It was 53°F and humid year-round.

Today, Saumur is the largest mushroom-growing area in France. In particular, 40 percent of the world's blue foot mushroom is produced here. Aside from touring mushroom farms, many restaurants also offer mushroom-only menus for visitors. I had a severe phobia of mushrooms when I was a child. It was not an issue with some being poisonous, but just a dislike for slimy texture and earthy undertone. Thanksfully, I became more tolerant of them as I got older but still not a fan. The thought of an all-mushroom meal still repulses me.

If you got lost, a handy map was provided to guide you through the caves.

Instead of a meal, we visited Musée du Champignon, one of the two working mushroom farms open to visitors. If the museum website is to be believed, the museum holds the world’s most extensive mushroom collection in Europe. Because it was quite a dreary morning, going underground to look at different mushrooms seems appropriate. The visit started with their giftshops, filled with all things mushroom, ranging from freshly gathered Shiitakis to mushroom-flavored beer. Sounds delicious, right?

The entrance to the main troglodyte network.

The first troglodyte network is relatively small and houses a vast array of figurines of mushrooms from across the world. It honestly looks like the living room of an eccentric hoarder. I had a feeling that this museum may be more kitschy than scientific. Luckily, the second cave network was more legit-looking. Right by the cave entrance is a mushroom sorting station where workers package the day’s harvest. Overall, this farm produces ten tons of mushrooms every year.

The first section of the cave network was an introduction to the world of mushrooms. The fungus collected from around the world is preserved in resin. We all started by pretending to read every plaque and display, but it all became overwhelming and repetitive. Ironically, I was most interested in their most poisonous mushroom here. Funny enough, the most deadly specimens look very harmless and not that dissimilar to any white-colored mushroom at your local grocery store. Named the “destroying angel,” it is the most dangerous species because of its innocent appearance.

The mushroom-growing section of the cave was located in the very back, where the temperature is the most stable.

For me, the more exciting part of the museum is the cultivation area toward the back. Mushroom growing is one of those things I never put a thought into. It was jarring seeing how all these things grow out of pieces of wood or wood chips. Like magic, they could grow in total darkness with so few nutrients. The varieties of the mushrooms were stunning; few were positively alien-looking. The antler reishi mushrooms were particularly striking. They remind me of lingzhi, the Chinese "mushrooms of immortality.” I almost felt the urge to break a piece off for a taste.

The instruction to plant the mushroom mycelium.

According to statistics, the most popular mushroom worldwide is shitake. But judging from the mushrooms growing there, the white button mushrooms are the most popular crop here and one of the fastest-growing mushrooms in France. The white caps emerging from the compost trays were adorable. Unfortunately, there was no live demonstration of the harvest or cultivation. The whole museum felt very eerie and a little sad. There were hardly any other visitors there. We just hoped that there was no power cut or a cave collapse.

The Puygirault Garden

When we bought the tickets for the Museum of Mushroom, we could get joint tickets to the nearby botanical garden and a tuffeau stone sculpture gallery. Knowing my dad loves gardening, I thought spending a few hours in the garden would be a nice break from all the châteaus hopping. Les Jardins du Puygirault is only a few minutes down the road from the museum and did not look all that impressive from the outside. It has all the appearance of a tourist trap. I hope that the €6 admission surcharge will be worth it. But more importantly, this would not be a waste of precious time.

I couldn’t find much about the history of the garden online or in any guidebook. Immediately upon entering the ground, I was impressed with the setup designed to educate visitors about the plants of Anjou through a chronological framework; the garden is arranged to illustrate the evolution of humans’ relationship with plants and agriculture. From the hunting and gathering age to the cloistered life of medieval monks, this narrative approach to gardening is very educational. Naturally, Dad was overjoyed and scrutinized each plant species like a new-found treasure. The way he studied each species reminded me of a little kid in candy shop.

The garden is laid out with young families in mind. Each plant was meticulously labeled. The amount of labor that goes into the garden must be enormous. I could tell that Dad was secretly hoping he could be a volunteer gardener here. Even though my parents lived in the United States for about six years, he still does not recognize many plants commonly found in the West, such as artichokes and Buddha's hand citron. Personally, my favorite feature of the garden is its beekeeping operation. These might be some of the happiest bees out in the world. Meanwhile, I tried hard not to take a bite out of many of the ripped fruits on the trees.

The ‘medieval’ section of Les Jardins du Puygirault.

At the end of the route, we arrived at the ‘surprise’ the pamphlet promised. It turned out to be another limestone cave for growing mushrooms. While it was not as impressive as the Musée du Champignon, it provides sufficient historical context. Inside the cave is a little natural stream irrigating part of the garden. This back half of the complex is exceptionally splendid. The massive farmhouse in the back provides the perfect backdrop for a picture-perfect French wedding. A tiny chapel is conveniently situated at the opposite side of the lawn.

Why do French buildings always look so charming, even in a decrepit state?

Amazingly, we ended up spending more than two hours at the gardens. I could not say a visit to the Puygirault Garden is a must on your Anjou itinerary, but it is probably the most enjoyable botanical garden I have ever visited. Perhaps it had something to do with seeing how much Dad enjoyed the whole experience. As much as he enjoyed visting all the châteaus, they could not hold the candle to this little anonymous garden. I am glad to spend these precious moments with my parents.

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Château de Montsoreau

Château de Saumur

The Mushroom Museum of Saumur

The Puygirault Garden

The White and Colored Canyon of Siani

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