A Rundown of Yucatecan Food
I must confess that Mexican food (or at least what is available in the United States) is perhaps my least favorite of all the prominent cuisines in the world. Whenever Brian asked me what I was up to for dinner, I often replied, “Whatever is fine with me except Mexican.” Even though I spent my formidable years in California and had a Mexican roommate in college, I honestly developed a strong aversion toward Mexican food. During my first trip to Mexico City, I ate at many of the city’s Chinese and Italian restaurants; I was not proud of it.
The anonymous taqueria in the back street of Mérida.
So when we decided to visit the Yucatán Peninsula, I felt a sense of dread about the food. Though I have read that Yucatán has its own distinct culinary traditions, I was still apprehensive. I have accepted that I may have Italian or American food during the trip. Unexpectedly, I love all aspects of Yucatecan food, even those purportedly challenging dishes such as relleno negro. Yucatán also helps to convert me to appreciate many other typical national Mexican dishes like enchiladas and chilaquiles.
Because of COVID-19, getting a table, especially outdoor ones, was tricky. For various reasons, even higher-end restaurants around Yucatán have not embraced online reservation platforms like Resy or OpenTable. However, I was also surprised to learn that the street food scene was not as thriving as I imagined. Nevertheless, we got to sample many Yucatecan specialties and embrace the local’s passion for food. So here are some of the dishes I have come to miss and now look for back home:
Breakfast & Appetizers
Sopa de Lima (Lime Chicken Soup)
A true classic of Yucatán, the warm chicken or turkey soup bowl is topped with plenty of fried tortilla strips and lime slices. The acidity from the lime brightens the soup and is an excellent palette cleanser. If there was soup on offer, you could bet it would be the sopa di lima.
Sikil Pak (Pumpkin Seed Dip)
Sikil Pak may represent the most distinct dip and condiment in Yucatán. Made primarily of pumpkin seed, a native ingredient of the region, the dip has a distinctive earthy flavor that is scrumptious. Sikil Pak is often served as a complimentary side dish in some casual restaurants and is a key ingredient in dishes such as Papadzules. This dip could easily give Guacamole else a run for the money.
Longaniza de Valladolid (Valladolid Sausage)
Named after the colonial town of Valladolid, this pork sausage is characterized by its deep red color derived from adding achiote seeds. The sausage has a distinct crumbly texture that is unique on its own. The longaniza is also a popular topping for everything from your breakfast omelet to a crispy panucho.
Empanadas Con Chaya (Emapanadas With Chaya Stuffing)
Empanadas are one of the most globally consumed snacks. But what made this dish distinctively Yucatecan is the use of chaya in the stuffing. Chaya, or tree spinach as often described, is a native perennial plant of Yucatán and makes its way into wide varieties in dishes here. The Empanadas Con Chaya we had at Hacienda Teya were easily among the best bites on this trip.
Chilaquiles (Chiles & Greens)
Though not unique to Yucatán, Chilaquiles remains one of the most popular breakfast dishes. This dish is constructed from various ingredients and is excellent for customization. It is said that Chilaquiles is also an excellent way to use up leftover ingredients from the night before.
Panuchos (Fried Stuffed Tortilla)
Panuchos is a taco on steroids. Handmade tortillas were stuffed with beans and then deep-fried in natural lard. It is practically the fattiest thing you could eat in the Yucatán. And like tacos, they could be topped with anything from cochinita píibil, guacamole to renello negro. The combination is limitless!
Carne Ahumada de Temozón (Smoked Meat of Temozón)
The small town of Temozón is known around the Yucatán for its wood-smoked sausage and ribs. Usually served with sour orange, pickled onion, and tomato salsa, a big plate of smoked meat is ideal for a lunch stop just north of Valladolid. The smoked meat does not have the crust and sauce that is typical of American BBQ, but it delivers a clean, meaty taste that is memorable.
Main Dish
Cochinita Píibil (Roast Suckling Pig)
One of the most common dishes in the region, the pull pork dish, is marinated in strongly acidic citrus juice, adding achiote seed, which imparts a vivid burnt orange color, and roasted. At the same time, it is wrapped in a banana leaf. Traditionally cooked in an underground pit, the pork is infused with a distinct smoky flavor.
Queso Relleno (Stuffed Cheese)
Queso Relleno got my vote for the most unusual dish in Yucatán. Its origin traces back to colonial times when the locals utilized the discarded outer shell of the Dutch Edam cheese and stuffed it with minced meat, often turkey and spices. It is often served in white gravy and a touch of Sikil Pak, raisin, and olive. While it is not my favorite Yucatán dish, it is still a must-try during your visit.
Pavo en Relleno Negro (Tukey Meatball in Black Spiced Sauce)
Unlike pork, turkey is a protein native to the Yucatán, and one of the most legendary turkey dishes is the forbidding-looking Pavo en Relleno Negro. The jet-black sauce got its color from roasted ancho chili, but the sauce is surprisingly grounded and earthy. But the sauce is half of the story; the massive turkey meatball and the encased boiled egg is the show's breakout star.
Camarón Xibalba (Shrimp In Black Spice Sauce)
This shrimp version with the negro sauce is not as standard, but it was delicious. The legendary sauce is the predecessor of the much more famous mole sauce. You seriously can’t leave Yucatán without getting several bowls of these.
Lomitos de Valladolid (Tomato & Onion Pork Stew)
This is another famous dish from Valladolid. Much like Cochinita Píibil, the fattiness of pork is balanced by the acidity of Seville sour orange and the earthiness of achiote seeds. Of all our dishes, this humble stew is likely the one we will recreate regularly.
Papadzules (Enchiladas With Pumpkin Seed Sauce)
A favorite in Yucatán, this was the dish that surprised me the most. Papadzules are corn tortillas dipped in a sauce of pepita (pumpkin seeds) filled with hard-boiled eggs. Topped with a tomato-pepper sauce of a dollop of Sikil Pak, it is the ultimate comfort food in my book. I am honestly surprised that papadzules have not taken over the brunch menu back in the United States.
Enchiladas Suizas (Swiss Style Enchiladas)
Though not technically Yucatecan, Enchiladas Suizas earns an honorable mention on this list. The name Suizas pays homage to the liberal use of cream and cheese in this dish. Yet, the dish is surprisingly light and refreshing. The version at El Barrio Comfort Food in Mérida changed my mind about Mexican cuisine.
Sweets
Marquesitas (Yucatecan Crepes)
Marquesitas is the undisputed king of the Yucatecan dessert. It is a crepe/wafer roll filled with shredded Edam cheese and various sweet and savory stuffing. Served fresh off the waffle iron press, these tasty treats are often served from roadside pushcarts. Watching the vendors in action is part of the fun.
Helados Elote (Sweet Corn Sorbet)
Refreshing sorbet is undoubtedly a perfect antidote to the blazing sun in the middle of a hot day in Yucatán. We were surprised by how frequently we came across a sorbet or gelato shop. One of the best places to sample regional helados is the 113-year-old Dulcería y Sorbetería Colón right on Mérida’s Plaza Grande. This venerable institution serves many of Yucatán’s most beloved local flavors, such as mamey, soursop, plantain, and Montecito. But my favorite is the elote, the sweet corn. Mixed in the gelato are giant corn kernels, making them the most memorable sweets during our visit.
Mantecado (Lard Cookies)
Visiting local panaderia every morning was a ritual during our time in Mérida. Without hesitation, the local mantecado is our absolute favorite. Yucatán’s love of lard makes these cookies sinfully delicious and decadent. We wish they sold these fresh cookies in tins for us to take home.
