An Impromptu Visit To Bari
Bari, the largest city in the Puglia region, is a city that does not get much love from international visitors. Based on most travel blogs, Bari’s contribution to Puglia’s tourism scheme seems to be its medium-sized international airport. Very few, including myself, consider Bari a home base for their trip around Puglia. Bari got so little love online that I wanted to check out this place myself. After all, I want to see whether Bari’s bad reputation (as a travel destination) is warranted. Perhaps Bari is just misunderstood?
Bari’s waterfront is often overlooked because of the development of the modern port.
Funny enough, what brought us to Bari was not its historical sights but our niece Mary’s shopping trip. This was Mary’s first trip abroad, and she was very keen to bring back a renowned Italian product: a Prada handbag. Since we picked the small city of Monopoli as our home base in this region, there wasn’t any luxury shopping happening there. Bari happens to have the closest Prada store, as well as many other luxury brands that interest her. Since Brian and I are generally not keen on shopping on vacation, we took this opportunity to have some "alone time,” which meant visiting some of the grittier parts of the city.
Being quite a meticulous planner when it comes to travel, I rarely change up my travel itinerary on a whim. Although I had looked into Bari before this trip, I knew little about the city’s history or landmarks. Aside from being the region's main city, all I knew was that this was a foodie city and a major port on the Adriatic Sea. But I know that having low or no expectations could be the best thing in this situation.
Bari, The Modern Metropolis
As we drove into Bari, I was quite surprised by the appearance of modern Bari. I have traveled through Italy enough to know that most Italians lived in modern cities like Milan or Naples rather than the cobbled lanes of Tuscany or Basilicata. But I was still unprepared to confront the ruthless urbanity of Bari. The whole city was laid out on a rigid street grid reminiscent of an American city. Although the city has various architectural styles, the building height is uniformly capped at six stories. Despite its plan's inherent elegance, modern Bari heavily relies on automobiles. I was surprised by the narrow sidewalks on some of the main boulevards. And in a truly Italian fashion, this city is breaming with a sense of chaos and fanatic energy.
Despite its population density, Bari is a very automobile-centric city.
There are plenty of fashion houses dotted along Via Sparano da Bari.
After dropping Mary off at the Prada store, we drove around the town center for quite a while to look for a parking spot. No open spot was available for fifteen minutes straight, either free or paid. We saw cars parking on sidewalks, in front of fire hydrants, and right on the crosswalk. Growing up in Asia, I am used to traffic chaos. But it is nevertheless jarring to see it in Western Europe. Eventually, we found a parking garage by the parking garage. During the fifteen-minute walk back to the city center, I understood what people disliked about Bari. With heavy traffic and a narrow sidewalk, modern Bari is heavy on commerce but light on urban ambiance. One of the first public places we came across, Piazza Garibaldi, also lacks the European charm that most visitors would expect from a bustling European city.
Bari’s main pedestrian street: Via Sparano da Bari.
One thing that I notice about urban Bari is the plethora of balconies. Regardless of architectural style and age, just about every building has outdoor space hanging over the sidewalk. Naturally, the residents used their outdoor space with plants and laundry. While they add to the urban vitalities, these balconies visually add to the urban chaos. Oddly, Bari reminds me of part of East Asia, and I felt surprisingly at ease here. While this may look like a dream destination, it felt very “lived in.”
Modern Bari, also known as the Murat Quarter, was laid out during the reign of Joachim Murat, a French military commander who ruled as the King of Naples under the auspice of his brother-in-law Napoleon Bonaparte. The city’s plan follows a strict rationalist principle of efficiency. And just like Paris, the grid plan was also ideal for maneuvering troops to defend this vital port city. The organized street plan was also thought to be a necessary remedy in limiting the squalid conditions of the old city and containing the persistent malaria outbreak. As much as we want to dismiss modernism for its lack of romanticism, you can’t argue with health and safety.
A map of Old Town Bari on the pavement of Via Sparano.
As unloveable as modern Bari may appear at first, it should be difficult to imagine the original splendor of this modern city. Over the century, the Mura Quarter became a mishmash of different architectural styles. But much of the city’s grand architecture survives, and we can all admire the ornate Art Nouveau and neoclassical architecture dotted around the city. Among them, Palazzo Mincuzzi is arguably the most elaborate of them all. This former department store is reminiscent of the grand architecture of Madrid and Saint Petersburg, and it speaks to Bari’s success as a center of commerce and culture.
Modernist fountain at the Church of Saint Ferdinand.
The greenery of Piazza Umberto I.
Bari may not be the most charming place in Europe initially, but our opinion started to change when we stumbled upon Via Sparano da Bari, the city’s main pedestrian thoroughfare. This lovely boulevard connects the old town with the city’s main railway station and is the most popular street for people-watching. Up and down the street are all the big names of high fashion: Gucci, Hermes, Parada, and Trussardi. For fun, Brian and I stepped into the Prada store to see what all the fuss was about. The store clerk immediately followed us for a semi-supervised visit.
Brian found a nice sweater he liked, priced at €1,100. Ouch! As we left the store, the clerk escorted us to the front and unlocked the door. We did not know whether she did them because she assumed we were shoplifters or whether they happened to have a VIP in-store. Regardless, the Bari store was probably less intimidating than their flagship in Rome. Although our Prada visit was a bust, we did buy our first souvenir on this trip: a 4-cup stovetop espresso maker from Bialetti.
The equestrian statue of King Umberto I.
Church of Saint Ferdinand.
The southern section of Via Sparano is anchored by the garden at Piazza Umberto I, a leafy green space that offers a welcomed respite from the urbanity of Bari. Even though this may not be the nicest-looking park in Italy, I particularly enjoyed the tropical ambiance created by all the surrounding palm trees. The garden is centered around an imposing equestrian statue of King Umberto I, the second monarch of a unified kingdom of Italy and one who colonized Eritrea and Somalia. Time would tell whether such a monument could survive the current period of "political correctness."
We decided to swing by their local McDonald's since we were in the modern part of town. As absurd as going to an American fast-food chain may sound, we enjoyed checking out different regional or special offerings McDonald’s offers in foreign markets. Given Italians' high standards regarding food, I imagine the quality of McDonald’s can’t be that bad. In the end, we had an order of fried chicken wings and panzerotti, but neither were available in American McDonald’s. But honestly, we enjoyed a cup of “iced” Coke Zero. For us Americans, the iced beverage is one thing we miss the most in Europe.
The Magic of Old Bari
For most visitors, Bari’s real draw is likely the old town, Città Vecchia. The old town felt like a world away after more than an hour at the Murat Quarter. Just past Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, the streets became a tangled mess of medieval lanes. The sightseer within me got excited. Occupying a small peninsula, the old town was first settled more than two millennia ago and was part of Magna Graecia. Interestingly, Bari was a major center of the Mediterranean slave trade and was an independent emirate at one time. Ever since that time, Bari has been a cosmopolitan place, with migrants adding to the vitality of this city. Even today, Bari remains one of the most connected Italian cities, with scheduled ferries to Croatia, Albania, and Greece.
Living life out on the street is my idea of southern Italy.
I would call this an authentic moment of Puglia.
By this point of the trip, we have been to more than half a dozen old towns in Puglia and Basilicata. I must say that Bari’s is the most “authentic” and vibrant. Although a few souvenir shops are still dotted around, most businesses here are still catered to the locals. I even saw a shop selling industrial plastic jugs. Although some visitors would prefer a nice boutique, a utilitarian store like that means this place has not succumbed to the barrage of international tourism. However, it would be wrong to assume that Bari doesn’t get much tourism. While I didn’t see many international tourists, the narrow lanes were heaped with locals, many Italian tourists, and school groups. The harmonious coexistence of tourism and local culture at Città Vecchia left a deep impression on me.
Doesn’t this remind you of Naples?
After visiting so many old towns, I started to pick some important architectural clues for vernacular. Perhaps the most obvious sign of authenticity would be the building’s balconies. Not only are they all draped with rows and rows of laundry, but many even have a protective awning to protect them from flying birds. While these awnings may not be particularly attractive, they indicate that gentrification has not arrived here despite its popularity with domestic tourists. As much as I enjoyed the “sanitized” ambiance of Matera or Polignano a Mare, I could not help thinking they are only one step better than Disneyland. Despite its slightly gritty appearance, Città Vecchia is a true slice of authentic Puglia.
A photogenic corner of Città Vecchia
Drying out your plastic shower curtain on the balcony.
Ruin of the medieval church of Santa Maria del Buon Consiglio.
For history buffs, Bari’s Old Town is a delight to explore. Perhaps the most notable historical monument in the area would be Castello Svevo, an imposing castle built by Bari’s 12th-century Norman rulers. Compared to the rest of Italy, southern Italy was like the Stanley Cup, being passed along between the great Mediterranean powers. The history of the castle reflected Puglia’s complicated history. The castle's profile is relatively squat for a castle of its era. The castle is best known as a residence of Bona Sforza, the Queen of Poland, and the Grand Duchess of Lithuania. Known as one of the most intellectual and cultural women of the time, she was a powerful political player in northern Europe.
But perhaps the most popular common legend associated with this castle is the alleged meeting in 1221 between Saint Francis of Assisi and Frederick II, the Holy Roman Emperor. Given Francis’s reputation at the time, the emperor decided to test his piety by sending a prostitute into Francis’s room. Legend has it that the emperor peeped through the door to see whether anything improper could happen. Impressed by Francis’s vow of chastity, the emperor allegedly spent the rest of the night with Francis, engaging in deep philosophical conversations. Whether this story is true or not is properly moot at this point. There is no doubt that people Bari is very fond of this tale.
Castello Svevo
An unusual-looking wall relief inside the Castello Svevo.
Castello Svevo has now been beautifully restored.
Today, the castle is home to Puglia's main cultural ministry, which oversees historical heritage. It is also an archaeological and cultural museum. The castle interior has been restored with permanent and temporary exhibits on the cultural history of Puglia. For uninitiated visitors like ourselves, the main interest of the museum might be its meticulously restored architectural interior. They excavated a section of the castle’s foundation to reveal its historic layer. For anyone interested in medieval architecture, the museum also has a few galleries of beautiful carvings dated from the Norman and Lombard periods. A pair of medieval lions are particularly endearing.
Fresh-made pasta on Strada delle Orecchiette.
Arguably, the most interesting street in the city is Strada Arco Basso, also better known as Strada delle Orecchiette (the Street of Ear-shaped Pasta). Over the decades, many women living along this street made a living out of selling their handmade pasta on the street. While such practice may not be commonplace in Asia or Africa, it is quite an abnormality in Europe. Puglia may have nearly two dozen unique pasta shapes, but orecchiette is most emblematic of the region’s culinary traditions. Watching the ladies making fresh orecchiette is the most unique activity in which to partake.
Fresh-made pasta on Strada delle Orecchiette.
Of all the pasta, what attracts everyone’s attention has got to be the giant orecchiette. At almost two inches in diameter, these monsters almost seem too large to be good pasta. They are about three times the size of the orecchiette we had at local restaurants. I do wonder whether they made them just four gawking tourists. Even with that suspicion, we bought a one-kilogram bag of giant orecchiette for €5. The lady told us to boil it for 8 minutes, which could last a month when properly dried. Sure enough, we found mold growing inside the bag two days later because we did not let it dehydrate properly.
In The Pursuit of Santa Claus
Over the centuries, Bari’s importance has been tied to one person: Saint Nicholas. A third-century bishop of Myra, Nicholas served during the time of Emperor Constantine and participated in important discussions about church doctrines, such as the First Council of Nicaea. He achieved widespread popularity among Christians for his acts of charity and protection of the vulnerable. But for non-Christians like myself, Nicholas’s claim of fame seemed to come from his role as an inspiration for the mythical figure called Santa Claus, which later morphed into modern Santa Claus. His habit of secret charity giving included allegedly putting coins in shoes left out for him. It was a ritual still practiced every December 6th, the Feast day of Saint Nicholas.
I absolutely love the whimsical entrance to the Basilica di San Nicola.
As a bishop in Asia Minor, Nicholas traveled throughout modern Turkey and the Holy Land. Notably, he has never traveled out of the Middle East, and he never visited Italy during his lifetime. And yet, why is Bari's most important shrine dedicated to him? In the middle of the 11th century, Asia Minor was embroiled in decades of conflict between Muslim Turks and Christian Byzantines. Taking advantage of the chaos, some Italian soldiers from Bari raided the church in Myra and stole his body over the objection of local monks. Nowadays, such brazen robbery would be a major international scandal. But back then, such practice was commonplace. It was common for pilgrims to snap off pieces of the saint’s body to take with them as souvenirs.
Two years after the arrival of the body, the Basilica di San Nicola was officially inaugurated by Pope Urban II. According to sources, the pontiff placed the holy relic in the crypt and celebrated. Because of the ongoing schism between the Roman and Byzantine churches, the Catholics welcomed the arrival of Saint Nicholas’s relics and described the act of theft as a “translation" for safekeeping. For propaganda, a ceiling fresco over the nave depicting a fictional visit of Saint Nicholas to Bari was commissioned to justify the transfer of relics to Puglia.
The massive roman arches across the nave of Basilica di San Nicola are highly unusual.
The medieval ciborium is an artistic highlight of the basilica.
Built by the Norman rules, the basilica stood out for its heavy Romanesque architecture and white-washed interior. Besides the ornate ceilings, the church looks like a protestant space, a breath of fresh air in Italy. What was particularly striking for me were four sets of round arches spanning the main nave. Having been to hundreds of churches during my travels, I have never seen one like this. Even though much of the original interior has been lost, small sections of the medieval murals have been preserved. Visitors could easily imagine the basilica’s former glory. For art lovers, the basilica’s most precious objects might be its medieval cathedra and ciborium. Both objects were among the oldest and the best-preserved ones of their kind in the region.
The medieval ciborium is an artistic highlight of the basilica.
The tomb of Saint Nicholas.
The underground crypt of the Basilica San Nicola.
Of course, a visit to Bari would not be complete without a visit to the crypt. As you would expect, the body of Saint Nicholas is buried right below the main altar and protected behind two sets of metal fences. Needless to say, the actual relic was not really on display. Instead, we were staring into a small grate and hoping that his body was there. After all, it was quite a special day to visit the “tomb of Santa Claus.” Elsewhere in the crypt is a marble tomb of Bona Sforza and a Russian Orthodox icon of Saint Nicholas.
Unbeknownst to us, Saint Nicholas is one of the major saints in the Russian Orthodox Church. The Vatican and the Russian Orthodox Church arranged a loan of the saint’s remains in 2017. Over one million faithful showed up at Moscow’s Cathedral of Christ the Saviors to glimpse the relic. In addition, Italy also returned a nearby church back to direct control of the Russian Orthodox Church.
President Vladamir Putin donated this statue of Saint Nicholas as a gesture of friendship between Russia and Italy.
According to the guidebook, Bari remains an important pilgrimage site for the Orthodox Christians. Because of its religious importance, it was not unusual for the Russian president or prime minister to visit Bari. Indeed, Vladamir Putin officially visited here in 2007 and donated a statue of Saint Nicholas, which still stands in the forecourt of the basilica. Just behind the statue is a bronze plaque that declares the solidarity and friendship between Italy and Russia. Signed by Vladamir Putin himself, the plaque garnered considerable controversy since the Russian invasion of Ukraine. Many local residents of Bari petitioned the mayor for the removal of the plaque. While condemning the Russian invasion, the mayor declined its removal, citing its “historical value.”
Statue of Saint Nicholas inside Basilica di San Nicola.
Images of Saint Nicholas are everywhere you look around Città Vecchia.
During our visit, a temporary signpost celebrating Saint Nicholas was conveniently placed before the “Putin plaque.” I wonder whether this was a nuanced solution to address the tension that developed since the invasion. Perhaps it was placed there to prevent vandalism or avoid public attention. It was not until after our trip that I came across an article in the New York Times detailing how this war has impacted Bari’s close link with the Russian Federation. I wish I had picked up on some subtle clues during our visit.
The hand-painted statue of Saint Nicholas would make a wonderful souvenior.
For anyone who spent a few hours in this city, it was clear that Saint Nicholas left indelible marks in Bari. All around Città Vecchia, there were icons of him and posters advertising the upcoming feast days. Personally, what intrigued me the most about Saint Nicholas in Bari was the visual depictions of the saint himself in Bari. Rather than the light skin and white beard of Santa Claus, Bari’s Saint Nicholas stays true to his Middle Eastern ancestry. This is a great reminder that Jesus and all twelve Apostles were all “Asian.”
In The Defense of Bari
Returning to the question at the beginning of this post, let’s answer whether the traveler community has given Bari a fair shake. In honesty, I could understand why Bari has such a reputational problem. Compared to other major cities of Puglia, like Lecce and Martina Franca, Bari lacks the romantic charm travelers often associate with Italy. The bustling modern metropolis pierces through this romantic bubble and forces us to confront a different side of urban Italy. Like so many wonderful destinations, how one enjoys a place heavily depends on managing one’s expectations.
Mary was very happy to get her fancy handbag in Bari.
Pumo de fiores definitely brighten up the street.
While I won’t place Bari on my list of must-see Italian cities, it certainly should not be actively overlooked during your trip. As evident by the length of this blog post, I genuinely enjoyed our visit to Bari and wish to urge everyone to give this place a chance. As Puglia’s reputation grew at home and abroad, Bari ironically remained a place where locals still outnumbered tourists in the city center. As evident as the length of this blog post, Bari has plenty of sights and history to entertain anyone willing to give her a chance. I want to thank Mary for bringing us here. Plus, she was so excited about getting her Prada handbag!
