Baltic Way - Unbroken Chain For Freedom
In a time of political turmoil and moral outrage, we often forget to look into the past to see how generations before us responded to the injustice. The recent mass demonstrations in Washington, D.C., and elsewhere in the United States made me reflect on the power of street protests and non-violent demonstrations. When we think of non-violent political movements, the images of Mahatma Gandhi, Nelson Mandela, and Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. come to mind. But one need not look further back into history past the mass demonstration in the Baltic regions of the former Soviet Union in the late 1980s.
The Baltic Way Memorial at Tallinn's Freedom Square.
On the 23rd of August 1989, around two million residents of Lithuania, Latvia, and Estonia came together to participate in one of the most beautiful and powerful demonstrations in human history. At 7 pm local time, a 430-mile continuous human chain linked the three Baltic capitals: Tallinn, Riga, and Vilnius. That date marked the 50th anniversary of the Molotov–Ribbentrop Pact between the Soviet Union and Nazi Germany. The clandestine pact divided Eastern Europe into spheres of influence and ultimately led to the annexation of three Baltic republics into the Soviet Union.
Under Mikhail Gorbachev's policy of Perestroika and Glasnost, the national identity of each Soviet socialist republic re-emerged. This new openness toward the critic of Stalinist legacies unleashed the long-suppressed suspicion of the secretive pact between Joseph Stalin and Adolf Hitler even before the outbreak of WWII. Despite its nullification in 1941 after the German invasion of the USSR, this clandestine agreement revealed the Soviet intention to annex the Baltic States well before their 'voluntary' accession into the USSR. In early 1989, the USSR officially acknowledged the existence of the secret agreement but refuted its historical connection to the occupation of the Baltic states in 1941.
The Baltic Way passing through the "Stone Bridge" of Riga.
The Stone Bridge today.
On the eve of the 50th anniversary, various nationalist groups within the Baltic SSRs (Estonian Rahvarinne, the Latvian Tautas Fronte, and the Lithuanian Sajūdis) coordinated and staged one of the most incredible mass demonstrations. To cover the entire length, groups were assigned to the sections of the road. People organized buses and other transport. Many families didn’t own their own car, so they had to carpool with friends and neighbors. People had to be in their spots at least 30 minutes before 7 p.m. when everybody would join hands at once. The result was more significant and magnificent than anyone expected. Participants expressed this electric energy running through their linking hands. More than anything, it is this idea of fellowship and kindred spirits among all the Baltic people.
The Toompea, the national seat of ENSV and now the Republic of Estonia
The three Baltic states are linguistically and culturally distinct from one another. While Latvian and Lithuanian are considered Eastern Baltic languages, they are mutually intelligible due to the level of loaned words and false friends. On the other hand, the Estonian language is entirely foreign to Latvian and Lithuanian speakers as the language is part of the Finno-Ugric family originating from northern Siberia. Estonia has historically had a close affinity toward its bigger sister, Finland. On the other hand, Lithuania has a decidedly southward-looking orientation, most notably its political co-federation with Poland from 1569 to 1795. Lithuania's adherence to Catholicism also set her apart from the Baltic sisters.
The Latvian Ceremonial Guard.
Freedom Monument in Riga, the focal point of the Baltic Way.
What bound all of them together is their tumultuous 20th-century history. All three republics were established in 1918 after the demise of the Russian Empire and subsequently invaded by the Nazis and then the USSR. This kinship through hardship is quite unique in modern Europe. As the perpetual underdog, the Baltics understand that they are bound to be outnumbered and overwhelmed by their powerful neighbors. Their solidarity and desire for self-determination make them among the most successful post-Soviet states. Today, the Baltic nations joined the ranks of modern European clubs with membership in the European Union, Eurozone, NATO, and OECD. They understand the fragility of their freedom and prosperity better than almost anybody else.
Cathedral Square in Vilnius, the southern terminus of the Baltic Way.
What made the Baltic Way so moving was the silent and ephemeral nature of the protest. The footage of the thousands of elderly and children linking hands and standing in silence along the highway is incredibly moving and inspiring. The actual 'protest' lasted merely 15 minutes, but its global impact was global. Across the West, similar hand-in-hand demonstrations took place in many cities. The narrative and footage of the human chains elevated the 'Baltic questions" to the forefront, bringing the political legitimacy of the Soviet Union into ever greater scrutiny. While the Baltic Way and the Singing Revolution didn't bring the long-sought sovereignty to the Baltic nations, they are integral to the narratives and memory of independence.
Soviet liberation monument at Green Bridge in Vilnius (removed in 2015).
Soviet liberation monument at Green Bridge in Vilnius (removed in 2015).
In 2009, the Baltic Way was added to the International Register of the UNESCO "Memory of the World" program. The oral history and documentation regarding the organization and aftermath of the demonstrations. The best non-physical tribute to the Baltic Way is the song The Baltics Are Waking Up (Atmostas Baltija, Bunda jau Baltija, or Ärgake, Baltimaad). Written by Latvian rock musician Boris Reznik, the song is performed in all three Baltic languages (performed in Lithuanian by Žilvinas Bubelis, in Latvian by Viktors Zemgals, and in Estonian by Tarmo Pihlap). Stanzas in each of the three languages demonstrated pan-Baltic solidarity and a sense of renewed spirit:
[ENGLISH TRANSLATION]
Three sisters standing by the sea,
Overcome by powerlessness and exhaustion;
The land and souls are trampled here,
The three nations' honor and mind.
But bells of fate toll in the towers,
And the sea begins to swell;
Three sisters have woken from their sleep,
And come to defend her honors.
Baltic is awakening, Baltic is awakening;
Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia!
[LATVIAN]
Trīs māsas jūras malā stāv,
Tās nespēks un nogurums māc.
Tur bradāta zeme un dvēseles,
Trīs tautu gods un prāts.
Bet torņos jau likteņa zvani skan,
Un jūra bangoties sāk.
Trīs māsas no miega modušās,
Par sevi pastāvēt nāk.
Atmostas Baltija, atmostas Baltija,
Lietuva, Latvija, Igaunija!
The Baltics Are Waking Up is now the closest thing to a pan-Baltic anthem. Over the years, it has been frequently performed in all three nations, and not just during the anniversaries of the Baltic Way. Above is my favorite rendition of the song, performed at the 25th-anniversary memorial concert at the Freedom Monument in Riga. The joy of unity across the national border is incredibly moving.
Plan Your Visit Around Baltic Way
Each Baltic capital has its own monument dedicated to the memory of the Baltic Way. Recently, Latvia held an architectural competition for central Riga. But perhaps the more poignant sites for visitors would be the Museum of the Occupation in each country. All three museums are located near the city center and offer an intimate look into the history and life of the Soviet period. The museum in Riga is perhaps the most striking of the three. Housed in a Soviet-era structure that resembles an iron-clad coffin, the adaptive reuse of that ominous piece of architecture could not be more appropriate.
Another way to commemorate the Baltic Way is to time your traveling around August 23rd, particularly on major anniversaries such as the upcoming 30th anniversary in 2019. For those driving from Tallinn down to Vilnius, retracing the route of the Baltic Way could make your journey so much more meaningful. This terrific map offers the most historically accurate path of the Baltic Way. Unfortunately, many towns of interest for tourists (such as Pärnu, Tartu, Liepāja, Šiauliai, and Kaunas) would require a detour. I can’t help wondering whether the three countries could organize a pilgrimage route of the Baltic Way. It may just be the next Camino de Santiago.
