Bargaining & Foreign Prices In Sri Lanka
Traveling through Sri Lanka, you can't help noticing the genuine hospitality of Sri Lankan people. My first glimpse into the warmth of the locals started at the Bandaranaike International Airport. I have never encountered a friendlier immigration officer before. Although we have been to plenty of countries with warm and friendly people, Sri Lankans stand out as outwardly sunny. We encountered genuine smiles anywhere we turned, not just those engaged in the tourist trades. The random passerby would sometimes say "good day" to use with a broad smile. Besides tourist touts at places like Sigiriya, vendors are often persistent but friendly and courteous. Even without making a sale, they would thank you for your time and wish you a nice day. As simple as that sounds, it is often a rarity in this part of Asia or even back home in the United States.
A contemplative moment at Aluvihare Rock Temple in Matale.
Traveling in Sri Lanka has been a breeze from the start to the end. But for those of us who grew up in the West or the United States, to be specific, two things often emerge as sources of frustration or annoyance. First is the need to haggle for everything from a taxi ride to household items. The second would be the so-called 'foreign prices' instituted by the government and many private enterprises. I can not tell which of these two facts bothers me more. As frustrating and stressful as either situation could be for travelers, it did help us put our own privileges and value system into perspective.
Bargaining
Growing up in Taiwan, I have limited experience with bargaining and always find the process exhausting and confronting at times. As in India, bargaining is a matter of life in Sri Lanka and part of the integral culture. The desire not to be ripped off could sometimes deter travelers from immersing themselves in the local culture. I have found myself seeking reassurance from larger convenience stores/supermarkets where prices are fixed.
A free guided tour at the Handunugoda Tea Plantation.
This fear often precludes us from interacting with the locals. Perhaps being ripped off was just part of the cultural experiences to some extent. Bargaining is a process and a show of respect for buyers and sellers. A smile and patience are appreciated on both sides. It is helpful to see haggling as a game of bluff, like a friendly poker match. It is a civil process, and you should never reveal your card. Of course, arming yourself with fair prices for the locals could go a long way. After a few days with our driver, Pula, I finally asked him about the fair local prices of various items. I am quite happy to report that the prices quoted to me personally do not deviate substantially from prices that locals deem fair:
1.5 liter of bottled water - Rs 60-80
1 king coconut from a roadside stand - Rs 60-80
A meal of chicken curry with milk rice - Rs 250-350
Lotus flower offering at the local temple - Rs 80-100
1 kilogram of express laundry service - Rs 200
Being a notoriously 'cheap' traveler, I sometimes struggled to accept the inflated prices. It is odd, or perhaps embarrassing, that foreign currency denomination could play a mind trick on me. Case to the point was a tuk-tuk ride in the mountain town of Ella. Quoted at Rs 200 for a 2-minute uphill ride back to our hotel, I was eager to bargain down the price to around Rs 120, to Brian's dismay. My rationale was based on the metered tuk-tuk fare in Colombo: Rs 180 for a 15-minute ride through the hectic Colombo traffic. Much could be said about whether haggling for such an amount was ethical or worthwhile. After all, I was talking about the difference between $1.10 and $0.83. Truthfully, I would not have batted an eye if my Uber rides from home to Newark Airport were $18 or $22. Somehow, I was hung up on that difference of Rs 80 simply because of its numerical value.
Our driver/guide Pula at a market in Anuradhapura
Of course, it was never about the monetary values but the feelings of being cheated. Back in the United States, I felt guilty about it all. My insistence on the fair price may be one regret I have on this trip. That said, bargaining should be undertaken with a positive attitude. Fashion legend Iris Apfel famously said that vendors are often unhappy when a shopper agrees on their first price. Why? It is because he or she would regret not opening at a higher price. That might sound cheeky, but there is a grain of truth in that.
Foreign Admission Prices
For all the genuine warmth of all Sri Lankan people, the only major complaint from foreigners seems to be the infamous "foreign prices.” While getting scammed by touts or tour guides is common worldwide, many do not expect the 'price gouging' to be instituted by government-run natural or cultural attractions. Such practices are quite common across the world. But the price differences between local and foreign admission prices at many of Sri Lanka's most popular sights could be quite a head-turner. While places like India's Taj Mahal charge about eight times more for foreigners, the differential in Sri Lanka could be more than a hundredfold for foreign visitors.
The phrase 'price discrimination' is often used to refer to this phenomenon. Sri Lankans are quite aware of the bad optic of this practice of dual pricing. They often have separate ticket counters and entry located far away from those for foreigners. Pula wholeheartedly disagrees with dual pricing on religious grounds. It also seems to run contrary to Sri Lanka's culture of hospitality. The admission for locals is often not posted, so it doesn't bring attention to the price imparity. Price disparity seems particularly out of hand around the famous Cultural Triangle. Here are the respective foreign and local admission prices of a few of the most popular destinations in Sri Lanka:
Sigiriya - Rs 5,520 vs. Rs 50
Polonnaruwa Ancient City - Rs 4,550 vs. free
Dambulla Cave Temple - Rs 3,550 vs. free
Anuradhapura Sacred Area - Rs 4,550 vs. free
Temple of the Sacred Tooth - Rs 1,500 vs free
Is this reasonable? Interestingly, some locals ridicule the dual pricing because of the 'separate and better' facilities for foreigners. It is not unusual to come across fully staffed restrooms dedicated to foreigners at many of these sights. Not surprisingly, better facilities for foreigners do not necessarily justify or make the high admission price easier to swallow.
Like the bargaining, the high admission costs for foreigners shall also be put into a larger perspective. In a country where the locals make as little as $150 a month, we are filthy rich in comparison. Asking foreign visitors to pay more to subsidize the conservation efforts is justified, if not necessary. Run by Sri Lanka's Central Cultural Fund, Sri Lanka's marquee cultural sights seem to be under good stewardship. Each ticket has a serial number and is thoroughly dated and examined at checkpoints.
It saddens me when I read that some travelers decided to skip these sights due to either limited budget or simply out of spite of the pricing discrimination. At $30 USD per person, the Lion's Rock in Sigiriya is outrageously priced by the island's standards. But does it make sense to skip out on one of the most amazing attractions.... especially after spending a fortune on the flight to Sri Lanka?
