Bratislava - The Slovak Renaissance
Slovakia vs. Slovenia! Sometimes referred to as the West Virginia of Europe Union, Slovakia is very often overlooked by visitors or confused with its distant relative, Slovenia. We all love an underdog story, and I have always been interested in second cities such as Porto, Glasgow, or Antwerp. It is fair to say that Slovakia has been playing second fiddle to much of its history: first to the Austro-Hungarian empire and then to the political union of Czechoslovakia. Plagued by decades of Communist rule and political backwater, the city also has a wealth of drab residential blocks and dilapidated civic buildings.
Bratislava is still revolutionary.
Slovak Radio (Slovenský Rozhlas) Headquarter.
I admit my knowledge of Bratislava (or Slovakia) is as shallow as a quick Google image search. A big part of the decision is to put a checkmark on our list of countries. Among the images of Slovakia that I could recognize is that of the Slovak Radio Headquarters. It is probably the world's most recognizable (and well-designed) inverted pyramid. I would have killed for a chance for a tour inside. Ironically, this building is also listed as one of the ugliest in the world by many publications. I definitely cannot pass on the chance to admire this monstrosity ourselves. Is it bizarre that this is one of the architectural highlights we visited in 2016?
Saint Stephen's Church with Bratislava Castle in the background.
Our visit to Bratislava was brief, as is typically the case for most international visitors, I could assume. The pint-size capital is a joy to explore on foot, and some of the more remote sights are easily accessible by its excellent public transit networks. With limited preconceived knowledge, we had a laid-back day and a half. One does not need to venture far to experience the different layers of Bratislava. Anchored by a well-preserved old town, Bratislava acknowledges its potential for tourism, particularly given its proximity to the upmarket Vienna, just an hour away.
Perhaps driven by the cheap alcohol prices, there is a "divey" feel to this town. In particular, the city turns into an active part scheme after dark. It was not as bad as Krakow, but it was still quite manageable. There was genuine ease to this place with a healthy dose of grittiness. Just recently, Bratislava was known as a dangerous and poverty-ridden place. One does not have to look further than the transformation of the city's prime landmark: Bratislava Castle. The restoration of the castle complex symbolizes the rising confidence of this thriving capital.
Reconstructed trophy that has been restored as part of the renovation efforts.
A symbol of rebirth, the Bratislava Castle is pristine.
A symbol of rebirth, the Bratislava Castle is pristine.
However, that analogy is problematic because the fortress we saw is a near-total reconstruction. The interior was so bare that no guidebooks could recommend a tour inside. At the same time, building a national identity through architecture is necessary for a small nation with its own culture and language. The pristine-looking fortress has quite a storied past. Having been the royal residence under the reign of Maria Theresa of the Habsburg Austro-Hungarian Empire, it was the keeping place of the Holy Crown of Hungary. Although its importance has been on the wane since the Napoleonic invasions, it remains the most potent symbol of the national identity of Slovakia in the center of this continent.
Sigismund Gate, the most authentically preserved portion of Bratislava Castle.
Firefighters’ Monument in old Bratislava.
Historically, Bratislava was either an Austrian or a Hungarian city. Due to its strategic location, it has become a melting pot of Central Europe. Known as Pressburg (in German) and Pozsony (in Hungarian), Bratislava was where colonizers set up their shops and ruled over the surrounding Slovak peasantry. Before the outbreak of World War II, Pressburg/Pozsony was a trilingual city with large German and Hungarian mercantile populations.
However, decades of Communist rule were under Soviet influence. All traces of the German/Hungarian past were erased with systematic demolition. It won't take much to remind ourselves of the treacherous past. Just outside the proper of the castle was the unassuming structure that seemed to fit perfectly in North Korea. I suspect that few tourists would recognize it as the seat of the Slovak Parliament. It would not take much to imagine the parliament moving within the wall of the castle one day.
The Soviet-era Slovak Parliament Building.
As on the the smallest nation, Slovakia’s supports for European Union integration remains high.
Slovak Presidential Palace.
Luckily, we scored a one-off hotel deal at the Crowne Plaza Bratislava. It was a steal at only $55 a night with a full buffet breakfast. Located just across from the Presidential Palace and a short 15-minute walk from the train station, its central location is lovely. For those not big museum-goers on vacation, Bratislava is a lovely destination for a weekend getaway. Personally speaking, there is no must-see museum. This is not to say there are no decent museums, but they may not warrant the time out of your short visit. We visited the Primate Palace (Primaciálny palác), the recommended museum in Rick Steve's guidebook.
Fully-restored Old Town Hall.
Saint Michael’s Gate, the entryway into Old Bratislava.
Saint Michael’s Gate, the entryway into Old Bratislava.
The crown jewel of Bratislava's museum scheme is a series of six English tapestries illustrating Greek mythology of love and tragedies between Hero and Leander. There were some dramatic stories of how these formerly imperial tapestries were hidden within the wall of the palace. They were only discovered when the Hungarian archbishop sold the palace to the civic authority.
Adjacent to the Primate Palace are the Old Town Hall and the charming Main Square (Hlavné námestie). The charming square is surrounded by a collection of buildings from various architectural periods, from the Baroque town hall tower and Art Nouveau Cafe Roland to the neo-Renaissance embassy buildings. Perhaps this will not rank among the finest squares in Europe, but it is an authentic slice of European living. Bratislava is in the crosswalk of Europe. There is an undoubted cosmopolitan vibe within the old town of Bratislava. We spent a long lunch talking politics to a German businessman over the next table. He told us he found this city open to foreigners yet retains a sense of self-assurance, no matter how humble it might be.
Devin Castle
One place to appreciate Slovakia’s unique location as the frontier of the Iron Curtain is the little borough of Devin. A popular tourist spot for its impressive castle ruins, Devin is situated at the confluence of Morava and the Danube River. Devin's strategic position was only made more pronounced during the Communist time. Just a stone's throw from the "West" (Austria), Devin itself became both the symbolic and literal edge of the Iron Curtain. It is a haunting place. At the foothill of the castle ruins is a memorial: a bullet-ridden gate that commemorates 400 individuals who were shot while trying to cross this water to freedom from 1945 to 1989.
Devin Castle.
Devin Castle.
Despite incessant trip planning, I failed to double-check the opening time of the castle itself. The last entry was passing when we got off the bus. However, it did give us time to wander around the outer bank and ponder the history here. At the same time, it gives us a much-needed "for the next time" excuse to come back to Bratislava. It is not as far-fetched as it sounds since it is such a short ride from Vienna.
Whenever you travel to a new country, getting on the bus and traveling outside the city center is important. During our bus trip to and from Devin, we got to see the different faces of Bratislava. From the glitzy riverfront development, drab Communist housing blocks, and midcentury villa to the working rural farmhouse, it is a wonderful cross-section of a working city. The bus to and from Devin terminated at the main bus transit station under Most SNP, Bridge of the Slovak National Uprising.
Most SNP, Bridge of the Slovak National Uprising.
Often referred to as the ‘U.F.O. bridge’ colloquially, it is a city landmark in its own right with its futuristic appearance. Like Seattle's Space Needle, U.F.O. also has an aptly named expensive restaurant atop. While I am a big fan of the architecture, the bridge could not be rid of its Communist origin for the Slovak people. The creation of the bridge itself also resulted in the complete destruction of the old Jewish neighborhood. Despite its misplaced appearance and dark history, the bridge symbolizes a contradictory and intriguing city. Our time in Bratislava was relatively short, but we felt we got to appreciate this beautiful city. We may not have seen everything we wished, but we are intrigued and enlightened.
