Camino Portugués: Day 1 - Porto to Labruge

Coming back to Porto was somewhat of a bittersweet moment for me. Brian and I spent about ten days driving from Lisbon to Porto about five years ago. In my first hour of getting into Porto, I twisted my ankle while descending a flight of stairs at a restaurant. After struggling to walk a few blocks, I was forced to stay in bed for the rest of that trip. So even though I have technically been to Porto, I barely saw anything besides a few blocks from our accommodation. So when I decided to start our first Camino from Porto, I felt a little trepidatious out of the fear that I would somehow repeat my mishap again before setting off for Camino. We even joked about having dinner at the same restaurant again and paying homage to my previous injury.

Pastéis de Nata for breakfast at Manteigaria.

Because my connecting flight from Lisbon the previous day was delayed for a few hours, I could not get to the Porto Cathedral in time to pick up my pilgrim credential before they closed at 6:30 pm. Instead, we aimed to be at the cathedral at 9 am, just as the cathedral reopened. But due to an unexpected washer malfunction and a “mandatory” stop for a couple of Pastéis de Nata for breakfast at Manteigaria, we ended up only getting to the cathedral just before 10 am. We spotted our first yellow Camino arrows just a block from the apartment. Unbeknown to us, our short walk to the cathedral is the official route for both the central and coastal route of Camino Portugués. With a full pack on our back, the reality of the pilgrimage finally set in for both of us.

With a long day ahead of us, I decided to skip out on a tour of the cathedral and its adjacent museum. Rather, we picked up our pilgrim passport, also known as pilgrim credential, from the museum's front desk. For €2, this document serves as the official documentation of the pilgrimage and serves two particular purposes. First, it documents proofs of places you have been on the Camino, which is necessary to attain the church-issued Compostela at the end. Second, the credential also identifies one as an official pilgrim, which offers access to municipal pilgrim-only hostels (Albergue) and other pilgrim-related venues. But for many modern pilgrims like myself, the pilgrim credential is also an ultimate souvenir for our Camino. For the duration of our pilgrimage, it is the one document I guarded as much as our national passport.

Getting the pilgrim credential is the first step of being an official pilgrim in the eyes of the Catholic Church.

A few steps outside of the Porto Cathedral stands an official Camino milestone. The stone bollard is embellished with the characteristic Camino scallop symbol and a yellow arrow pointing the way. But for most of us, what interests us is the marked distance to Santiago de Compostela. Many pilgrims, us included, waited in line for a picture with this “official” start point of Camino Portugués. We came across almost a dozen other pilgrims there, many with backpacks twice as big as ours. We could not help wondering whether they would begin discarding their belonging after the first stage.

According to the marker, we were at least 248 kilometers (or 154 miles) from our destination. To my understanding, this was the distance measured by the Central Route, just one of the many official ways of Camino Portugués. Compared to other Caminos, Camino Portugués is known to have many recognized subvariants. Among the most popular topics of discussion among pilgrims seems to be the best way to get out of the historic center of Porto. The Central and Coastal Route goes northwest through the metropolitan area and is often regarded as the worst stage of the Portuguese Camino. Many pilgrims opted to skip a large section of this route by taking the metro just outside the city's industrial zone. Many others, especially German pilgrims, skipped central Porto by walking straight from the airport.

Because this was our first Camino, we decided to abstain from motorized transportation during our Camino. Thankfully, another popular variant called Senda Litoral translates to the “Coastal Path.” This path follows the bank of the Douro River to the Atlantic Ocean and hugs the coast until meeting up with the official “Coastal Route.” Yes, the name of the Coastal Route could be a bit of a misnomer since it does not reach the coast until the town of Povoa de Varzim on the second day. For pilgrims like us who like to walk the Central Route, Senda Litoral seems to be a perfect choice for tasting the Portuguese coast without walking the Coastal Route.

Single-use plastic is endemic in a marathon event.

Just around the corner from the official marker in front of the cathedral is a small painted yellow pointing in the opposite direction toward the river. The arrows led us through a series of steep staircases toward the river. We came across a series of runners just a block from the riverbank. It just so happens that our first day of Camino coincides with the city’s half marathon. Even more remarkable was that the entire marathon route runs side by side with Senda Litoral. Like most marathon events, plenty of spectators were cheering the runners on. Along the routes are bands and masters of ceremonies offering encouragement to the runners. I found it quite a symbolic coincidence that many people compare Camino to a marathon; both endeavors require endurance and pacing. I took it upon myself to redirect many words and this energy of excitement and great encouragement toward the start of our Camino.

Ponte da Arrábida was our first mental milepost for this stage.

Even though we have done a few training walks for our Camino, this was the first time we walked with our fully loaded backpacks. I will not lie, but I was a little nervous about how we would fare under the weight. While both packs were well under the recommended limit of 10% of our body weight, we are still worried about whether we packed too much for the Camino. Surprisingly, we managed the pack's weight well after the first hour. But with so many kilometers ahead of us today alone, we quickly realized the importance of setting short-term goals. As we walked toward the mouth of the Douro River, the blue sky began to emerge from the horizon. The massive Ponte da Arrábida gleamed under the sun like a heavenly gate. Getting to the base of this bridge became the first-ever milestone for this Camino.

The relic of Porto’s industrial heritage adds to the charm of the Duoro waterfront.

Compared to Lisbon, Porto is often described as a gritty port city struggling to shake off its industrial past. After just a few hours on the ground, I could not disagree with that assessment more. I started to question why people would complain about our walk out of Porto. This stretch along the river beats any other walk we did back in New York City. Brian and I discussed how Porto exudes a relaxed urban ambiance that we both crave. If our situation permits, we could easily imagine relocating to Porto one day. There is just something very easy-going about this place. What makes Porto’s riverfront particularly charming is that many of its relics from the industrial past have been preserved.

After about 90 minutes, we finally reached the mouth of the Douro River. Even though we have only covered a quarter of the kilometer for today’s stage, I oddly felt a sense of accomplishment. This spot also happened to be the finishing line for the half marathon. A festive atmosphere was in the air as runners posed for celebratory photos with friends and family. But as much as I enjoyed the atmosphere of the marathon, it did take away the tranquility typically associated with the Camino.

I was a little disappointed that the water was so calm today.

For many pilgrims who have walked Senda Litoral, this is the most scenic spot on the first stage. A block inland from the water is the Fortress of Saint John the Baptist, which dated to the middle of the 16th century and once guided the ships into Porto. Nowadays, that honor is bestowed upon Felgueiras Lighthouse, which stands heroically on a long jetty. On this morning, the wave was calm, but it was not uncommon for the lighthouse to be completely enveloped by the wave on a stormy day. However, what caught my eye is a story-tall sculpture called The Dream of Humanity by sculptor José Rodrigues. The dramatic sculpture is a celebration of Ferreira de Castro's literary works and symbolizes the agony of the human condition and the birth of humanity. I only hoped it was not a preamble that was to come in our Camino journey.

There are plenty of space on the beach to spread out.

Just as we thought we had put the rowdiness of the marathon behind us, this section of the Atlantic coast was not exactly a tranquil experience either. The beach was teeming with urban beachgoers. The beach reminds me of a bit of California and Jersey Shore, albeit more elegant. We shouldn’t be surprised by how popular beaches are outside a major city like Porto. Even in mid-September, the temperature reached 82°F by late morning. If it were not for the long trek ahead, we would love to sit back at one of the numerous seaside cafes, sipping on giant glasses of Porto Tonico.

Because of all the leisure and commercial activities along the beach, it was sometimes difficult to spot yellow Camino arrows. While it does not have the rowdiness of Coney Island, we were just too distracted. It seems like there is another monument or café to gawk at just about every five minutes. Brian felt a little jealous of all the leisure sunbathers as we carried on with our backpacks. Given our late start, as much as we loved to take a break and admire the sea view, we felt pressured to go forward.

About half an hour in, we came across Fort of San Francisco do Queijo. The best way to describe this 15th-century fortress would be “cute,” but it was just big enough to be regarded as a real military fortress. The fortress is accessible through a stone walkway, which happens to be right over the Camino path. We took this opportunity to take a brief break before making a final push to the middle point of today’s stage. The €0.50 admission gave us access to a small military museum, restrooms, a bar, and a viewing platform. From the top is a panoramic view of the Atlantic and the nearby city of Matosinhos, the midway point of our stage today.

Call the police! There was a guy trying to scale the fortress wall.

The seaside town of Matosinhos is a favored stopover point on Senda Litoral, given that it is one of the largest cities in northern Portugal. It has plenty of amenities for both pilgrims and holidaymakers. I read that many pilgrims spend a night here to give themselves an easy start to their Camino before making their way to Villa do Conde the next day. Unfortunately, we did not have such a luxury of time, but the place does seem like an ideal lunch spot.

*She Changes*, by American artist Janet Echelman.

For any pilgrim approaching the city, missing the giant outdoor sculpture hanging over a major roundabout is impossible. The massive work is a fiber net sculpture entitled She Changes by American artist Janet Echelman, a tribute to Porto and Matosinhos’s fishing and industrial heritage. It was for sure one of my favorite pieces of public art that I ever came across. I also have to confess that this sculpture is one of the reasons I decided to take Senda Litoral. I remembered seeing Echelman’s Every Beating Second at Terminal 2 of San Francisco International Airport a decade ago and was fascinated by her works. Since then, I have been itching for an excuse to see this work in Matosinhos. So I was happy to report that I wasn’t disappointed. It was certainly even more impressive in person than I could have imagined.

Traditional architecture still survives a few blocks inland from the ocean.

Although Matosinhos may be a good stopping point, it wasn’t a beautiful city. Most of the city was laid on a grid and dotted with midrise housing blocks. To escape the charmless concrete jungle, we deviated from the official Camino route on the Camino Ninja app and walked a few blocks inland. Sure enough, the architecture there is far more charming and human-centered. The colorful tiled building returned, bringing a smile to our faces. Heeding the advice of some past pilgrims, we decided to have lunch at the city’s famous Matosinhos Mercado. It is supposedly the best spot for the freshest seafood and a bustling public market for the locals. So you can imagine our disappointment when we discovered the market was closed on Sunday.

This is one of the best Ukraine War murals I have seen.

Even though we were both hungry and exhausted by this time, we decided to press on by passing over the Mobile Bridge of Leça. The draw bridge was quite a piece of architectural beauty. Just as we were about to cross the bridge, the siren sounded, but a staff member enthusiastically waved through us. Exiting the bridge, we arrived at the upscale town of Leça da Palmeira. We found comfort with the return of the yellow arrows but were disappointed that the city’s tourism office was also closed for the day. Since leaving Porto Cathedral this morning, I have been itching to get a second stamp on our credentials. Given how touristy all the places we have passed by, I wasn’t sure whether most businesses here would have a pilgrim stamp for us.

We came across two large tidal pools just a few blocks after returning to the beachfront trail. They stopped the architect within me on my track. The Tidal Pools of Leça da Palmeira was an early project of Portuguese architect Álvaro Siza Vieira, who received the 1992 Pritzker Prize. It is one of the most understated pieces of modern architecture in Portugal. The architecture, which includes an entrance pavilion and changing room, seemingly blends in with this section of the rocky coastline. We were suddenly transported to one of the famous Greek islands. Interestingly, these pools were abandoned for quite some time until refurbishment about twelve years ago. If only we had time, I would like to dip here.

Well, both of us were starving and exhausted by this point. The intense heat of the sun certainly was no help. After passing through a nearby McDonald’s, we vowed to pick a random restaurant within a five-minute walk. Based on Google Maps, the best option seems to be a place called Santo Burga, a burger restaurant that has become very popular with the locals. We were lucky enough to get a spare table during the lunch rush. This place has a beachy and should be renamed as “Bros.” All the wait staff sported full heads of beards and yelled out the order across the restaurant nonstop. The food was good, but what made me happy was taking off my shoes and socks so that my feet could “breathe” properly. Luckily, there is no blister yet!

After our leisurely lunch, we suited up with plenty of sun protection and continued to march northward. Within sight from the restaurant is Boa Nova Lighthouse, said to be one of the tallest in the country at 190 feet. Considering its height and location, it is not wrong to assume that this stretch of the coast was responsible for plenty of shipwrecks over the centuries. In front of the lighthouse was a series of white-colored sculptures called The Sea Line (A Linha do Mar). Created by Portugal’s minimalist artist Pedro Cabrita Reis, it is said to mimic the staggering and ever-changing geometric of the wave. This was the prettiest stretch of the coast yet today.

Beyond the lighthouse was Boa Nova Tea House, another famous work by Álvaro Siza Vieira. The 1956 restaurant is one of his earliest commissions and is somewhat of a Portuguese answer to Fallingwater. Surprisingly, it is reminiscent of the works of Alvar Aalto and Frank Lloyd Wright. Is it a coincidence that it is so close to the tidal pools we walked by earlier? Nowadays, the tea house is home to a well-known two Michelin Stars restaurant. I might have suggested forking over €100 a person for a meal on an ordinary trip just because of the architecture. But Camino tempered my expectations when it comes to budget and time.

To get the best view of the tea house, I was happy to discover a rocky mount just west of the nearby Chapel of Our Lady of Boa Nova. From this spot, we had a panoramic view of Leça da Palmeira to the south and a giant complex of oil depots and refineries to the north. I considered this spot a turning point for this particular stage. From this point forward, we left urban areas behind and enjoyed the quieter section of Senda Litoral. Honestly, I was quite happy to walk along the oil depot. Many fellow pilgrims may bemoan the industrial eyesores, but I found them quite beautiful as they remind me of paintings by the American painter Charles Sheeler. The forest of smokestacks is a great visual marker of how far we have come. If this were the “ugly” side of the Camino, I would be happy for the rest of the way.

Brian: “This is a beach vacation without going to the beach”.

By this point, the broad seaside promenade from the earlier part of the day transitioned into long stretches of duckboards. We could finally get into the groove of the Camino from here on and enjoy a few moments of relative solitude. Walking along duckboards was a pleasant change. After a few hours on hard pavement, the bounciness of the wooden planks is a welcomed relief. Despite the increasingly rural ambiance, the local council did a great job in upkeep and a plethora of public amenities. Just about every kilometer is a public drinking fountain and exercise equipment. There are even a handful of public restrooms along the way.

By now, both Brian and I were exhausted. As the hours passed, our packs felt heavier and our pace more sluggish. When I asked Brian how he was enjoying the first day of Camino, he jokingly said it was like a beach vacation with the beach. He was right in so many ways, and I had to be sober about the nature of pilgrimage. It was just so different from any other vacations we had before. My goal on this Camino is to appreciate the little things we often overlook in our normal travel. For once, I wouldn’t be obsessed with seeing the marquee landmarks of each place we visited. Perhaps Camino is somewhat of a travel therapy for an obsessive planner like me.

The Memorial Obelisk marks the spot where the Liberal Forces of King Pedro landed in 1832.

After walking through a series of sandy and rocky beaches, we arrived at a stone obelisk standing heroically in the middle of a beach. This Memorial Obelisk, as it is called, traced its root to 1832 and marked the location of the famous landing in 1832 by the “Liberal” forces led by Pedro IX, the first Emperor of Brazil. It is pivotal in the “Liberal Wars” or the Portuguese Civil War. This battle was a war of royal succession between two brothers, Dom Pedro and Dom Miguel. The crown of Portugal was in dispute when Dom Pedro, the late king's eldest son, declared Brazilian independence from Portugal. His brother, Dom Miguel, seized the throne with the backing of Portugal's conservative forces to form an absolute monarchy. With the backing of various foreign powers, Dom Pedro’s Liberal forces returned to Portugal and eventually restored the constitutional monarchy in his homeland. For many Portuguese, this beach holds a legendary status in the history of modern Portugal.

These Roman-era fish-salting tanks are absolutely amazing.

To my surprise, many other interesting historical artifacts exist in this section of Camino. The most interesting among them are Roman-era tanks for fish salting. Dated to the third century, as many as 32 rectangular and trapezoidal-shaped tanks are dug into the bedrock. Near these salt tanks is a medieval-era sea house (casa do mar). The scale and precision of these tanks are awe-inspiring. Given Portugal’s love for salted cod (bacalhau) and the plethora of tinned fish stores across the country, it is interesting to know that this culinary tradition went this far back in history.

Traditional fishing still seems to be alive and well. Ten minutes north of the path is a small but lively fishing village. Like Nazaré, the fishing boats here are moored on the beach, so getting out of the sea must take a lot of effort every morning. But judging from all the fishing traps and netting littered across the beach and the smell of raw seafood, we were sure they were not just for show. I only wish there was a convenient place or two for some seafood tapas.

By now, we knew we were very close to Labruge, the destination of this stage. Despite our sore feet and hunger, we picked up our pace and crossed the estuary of Rio Onda. Crossing over the pedestrian bridge almost felt like there was some finality to this day. We were relieved that we survived our first day of Camino without blister or injury. I was giddy that Brian went along with me all day without complaint. Perhaps he would enjoy Camino after all.

Because of its municipal albergue, the seaside town of Labruge is a very popular place among pilgrims to spend a night. It is also just the right distance from Porto to make it an ideal endpoint for the first stage of Camino Portugués. Given its popularity, I was surprised to find relatively limited options for private accommodation. I was lucky to get the last room at Smiling Places Guest House. It was pricey at €75 for a standard double room per night. The guesthouse was run by husband and wife, Fernando and Elisabete. Fernando was in the house to greet us, and the name Smiling Places was appropriate. They have only been open for half a year, and he was amazed by how far and wide their guests came from.

What a great place to wrap up our first day of Camino.

After a quick shower and handwashing our laundry, we set out to enjoy a sunset dinner by the beach. Because it was a Sunday, only one restaurant was open: Novo Rumo. The restaurant did not get a glowing review from Fernando, so we had very low expectations. So it was a surprise that the food was not entirely bad and the portions were more than generous. But of course, the highlight of the dinner was the magnificent sunset view and our own sense of accomplishment. For the first time, I was convinced that we would finish the Camino together.

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Camino Portugués: Day 1 - Porto to Labruge

Camino Portugués: Day 2 - Labruge to Rates

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