Camino Portugués: Day 10 - Pontevedra to Armenteira

Despite my best efforts, I still can’t shake the habit of being a tourist. As an incessant planner, Camino has been both a blessing and a curse. On one hand, I was familiar with the phrase “Camino provides”, but I still can’t shake the feeling that I need to learn about every little town and hamlet that we visited. Ever since I decided to walk the Variante Espiritual yesterday, I was able to book all the rest of our accommodation and stopped second-guessing my Camino planning. I felt at peace for a moment and was ready for whatever happened, rain or shine!

Our amazing run with the weather officially ended this morning. The weather app projects overcast sky and rain for the rest of our Camino. While I was mentally preparing for wet weather, we were also grateful that we were blessed with such wonderful weather up until now. After checking out of our “hostel,” it was a short four-minute walk before we returned to the Camino. At a major intersection, we see a female pilgrim who appears to be lost in the maze of Pontevedra. We asked her whether she wanted to walk with us as we headed out of town. Magda, originally from Poland, currently lives and works as a school teacher in Geneva.

This was her second Camino. Like many of us, Camino was a welcomed respite from the daily grind of life for her. The long walking day provided her with moments for solitude and reflection. She embodies the kind of easy-going pilgrims we enjoyed walking along this journey. Unfortunately, it was only half an hour before we arrived at the fork where Variante Espiritual separates from the Central Route. Sadly, we had to say farewell to Magda as she followed the traditional route toward Santiago. By now, we were accustomed to meeting wonderful pilgrims and saying goodbye to them. Camino taught us we should treasure every interaction and may see each other again.

It was too bad that the weather wasn’t better.

I first heard of the Variante Espiritual on The Spirit of Camino podcast, hosted by an American couple living in Portugal. Because they are based in Portugal, their podcast provided a great perspective on walking the Camino from Portugal (not just Camino Portugués). Among the top advice they gave their listeners is to walk the Variante Espiritual. This Camino variant is a fairly modern phenomenon and has no historical basis for the most part. From my understanding, this route was organized by the region’s tourism board to capture more pilgrim traffic. However, the last segment of this variant, which involves a boat ride from Vilanova de Arousa to Pontecesures, is said to be the same water route that carried Apostle James’s body toward Santiago. Because of this historical association, the Catholic Church recognizes it as an official variant of the Camino. The boat ride itself also counts toward earning your Compostela.

With some luck, the cloud started to clear just a little bit.

As an official variant, Variante Espiritual is well sign-posted along the way. It even has its own distinct insignia: a scallop shell with a Cross of Saint James. Personally, I think this is the single most beautiful Camino symbol I have seen. The metal and wood signpost also conveys a sense of grace. Standing at the turn-off location, I was interested in seeing how many pilgrims walked this variant. Perhaps not surprisingly, fewer than a quarter of pilgrims chose this route. Of course, this was just my very unscientific observation on the spot.

This very first section of Variante Espiritual was surprisingly steep. It was great to start sweating so early in the morning. The climb took us past some beautiful vineyards. On the way, we passed two sizeable groups of Italian pilgrims. I have never said so many “Buongiorno” on Camino; I wonder whether this trail is particularly popular with Italians. The ascend gave us a wonderful view of the surrounding valley and the skyline of Pontevedra. Compared to the previous sections, Variante Espiritual seemed more secluded and quiet so far.

There was no breakfast option to be found.

At one point, the trail made a sharp right turn through a field of fern plants. It was a short but beautiful stretch. When I arrived back on the tarmac, I noticed a little plaque indicating some ancient engraving on the side of the road. Known as the Petroglyph of the Forcadas (Petroglifo das Forcadas), it comprises two sets of concentric circles with a radial axis. The engraving is recognizable. It reminded me that on the second day of this Camino, we could not find a petroglyph at Geodesic Vertex of São Paio. I was very happy that the Camino angel finally let us see an ancient engraving on the pilgrimage.

Across from the petroglyph is a massive hotel with a sign for pilgrim breakfast. But for whatever reason, we felt the need to press on. That was a bad decision, as there was no other place for food until the village of Casalvito. The trail winds through a beautiful eucalyptus forest before descending toward the shore. This short dirt track section was divine and had no other pilgrim as far as our eyes could see. I particularly love a yellow Camino arrow nailed to a tree trunk.

This may be my favorite yellow arrow on this Camino.

The highlight of this morning was a visit to the village of Poio and its massive Benedictine monastery. San Juan de Poio Monastery was constructed in the 17th century and combines Renaissance and Baroque styles. But from the outside, the most impressive feature would be the massive hórreo. According to the available information, this is the largest hórreo in Galicia and a sight to behold. The structure is so massive that it has to be supported by three rows of stone pillars. The sheer volume of storage capacity speaks to the dominance and financial power of the monastery.

Surprisingly, we did not encounter another pilgrim during our visit. Instead, there were two busloads of Spanish tour groups. They certainly took away the tranquility of the place. The monastery at Poio received a special shoutout in The Spirit of Camino podcast and is one of the oldest monasteries in the region. Founded in the 7th century, the monastery once had a massive land holding, which gave it the financial resources to undergo massive building projects. From the outside, one could see how big of a complex this is.

Since the 16th century, the monastery was also home to a theological seminary. As a result, they offered limited accommodation to any pilgrims who planned ahead. Within the pilgrim community, a monastery is often considered the ultimate accommodation. However, it is not clear whether this is indeed an active monastery. I wonder whether not many pilgrims made this stop because of the €3 admission fee or the lack of signage. It was the most worthwhile church admission we paid thus far on the Camino. The monastery church is grand with bright stone finishes. The towering altarpiece is quite a Baroque masterpiece with twisting columns and dramatic curves.

For visitors, the main draw to the Poio Monastery would be its two magnificent cloisters. The older of the two is right adjacent to the church. This cloister has a beautiful starred vaulted ceiling, almost Manueline in style. This cloister is technically a procession cloister, a place for deep meditation. But as beautiful as this place is, the true draw for this monastery, particularly for pilgrims, is the second cloister, which was built in the 18th century. But the pièce de résistance is its enormous mosaic, which goes along the entire length of this cloister.

The procession cloister of the Monastery of Saint John at Poio.

The mosaic is the work of the Czech artist Antoine Machourek, created between 1989 and 1992. The wall mosaic is over 265 feet long and depicts scenes from the Camino de Santiago. Interestingly, the mosaic depicts various stages along Camino Francese, which does not visit this part of Galicia. It is a vivid reminder that the modern revival of Camino was a rather recent phenomenon. At the time of the mosaic’s creation, hardly any pilgrims walked Camino Frances, let alone Camino Portugués. It is quite coincidental this monastery happened on the trail of Variante Espiritual.

While it is technically a celebration of Camino Francese, I was nevertheless excited to pose with the section for Galicia.

For any pilgrim who has walked the Camino Frances already, I imagine this would be one of the most memorable stops on any Camino. Composed of more than a million pieces of stones, it is mesmerizing. Although the color palette was not particularly eye-catching, the storytelling was effective. The journey took visitors from Paris to Santiago de Compostella. The mural depicts key stops along Camino Frances, such as Pamplona, Burgo, and Lugo. Even though I have not walked the French Way, I have heard so much about these cities through various Camino podcasts and forums. It was just another motivation to walk Camino Frances one day.

For those pilgrims on Camino Portugués, the last section of the mural is perhaps the most interesting since it depicts scenes from Galicia. I could not help myself with a picture in front of the words ‘Galicia’ and the Cross of Saint James. Of course, the mural ends with a mosaic of the great cathedral at Santiago de Compostella. Just beyond this cloister, several rooms house various religious artifacts, ranging from music books to archaeological artifacts unearthed during the last restoration. There is even a sizeable gift shop for some religious souvenirs.

What a sublime view of the Bay of Pontevedra!

From Poio, it was a steep but quick descent toward the shore. Brian and I were starving since we decided to skip breakfast at the hostel. We were both ready for a substantial lunch. According to the online review, Asador O'Remo would be a great place for a seafood feast. We forgot that this was Spain and the lunch would not start until 2 pm. Rather than waiting around their bar area, we opted for a quick coffee at the nearby Cafetería A Reiboa. Located right at the waterfront, the cafe has a wonderful view of the whole estuary. At this point, the sky began to clear up, and I was just astonished by the beauty of this location.

We were disappointed that this place did not serve any food either. Instead, we just spent an hour there enjoying some caffeine. What I remembered about this place was the cappuccino I ordered there. I was served a cup of hot milk with a package of Nescafe cappuccino powder for the first time. I was most surprised that this could happen in Spain, a country with a fine appreciation for a proper drink and cafe culture. It was certainly a mismatch to the beautiful surroundings.

It was a twenty-minute walk from the cafe to the seaside village of Combarro. Based on the number of restaurants listed on Google Maps, it seemed like a perfect lunch stop. From the distance, Combarro looked like a perfect Galician village. The village is known regionally for its collection of hórreo. Unlike most hórreo, the ones here are on the water’s edge. They represent Combarro’s role in connecting the interior to the sea. We arrived in town at the low tide to walk along the exposed sea bed, passing numerous oceanfront hórreo. I could see why some people call it the most beautiful village in Galicia.

For a pint-size villager, Combarro knew how to turn up its charm. It was as if somebody had transported the charmist blocks from Pontevedra to this beautiful waterfront location. The town consists of traditional Galician houses and streets paved with granite blocks. We were just amazed that such a beautiful town is almost anonymous to us Americans. I am just grateful that Camino brought us to such a beautiful place. That said, Combarro is popular with Spanish tourists. As a result, Combarro is blessed with a good collection of B&Bs and seafood restaurants.

We were lucky to get a waterfront table at Bar Pedramar for lunch. This was our first proper seafood meal in Galicia, and I was beyond excited. We decided to splurge and order some of Galicia’s most emblematic dishes: padrón pepper, octopus in fair's style (pulpo a la feria), and grilled scallops (zamburiñas). Back home, we barely have seafood at restaurants because of the prohibitive cost. We were happy to pay €12 for a full plate of scallops. But the show's star must be the octopus, a dish culturally synonymous with Galicia. I must confess that octopus is my favorite protein in the world. The Galician octopus did not disappoint. From now on, I vowed to have an octopus dish once a day during our visit to Galicia.

Our first plate of *pulpo a la feria* was absolutely divine.

The tide came in during lunch, and we could appreciate a different side of Combarro. If not for our hotel reservation tonight, Combarro would have been an amazing home base for exploring the region. With a full belly, we were ready for the hike up Monte Redondo. This would be the most strenuous stretch of the Variante Espiritual. Walking up a 25-degree incline right after a big lunch was not such a great idea. On the way, we passed a couple more pilgrims. Seeing that we were not the only ones struggling up the hill was reassuring. However, we were rewarded with a beautiful view of the bay. Along the way, quite a few numbers of local residents decorate their homes with Camino symbols. It is always nice to see how the locals are welcoming of pilgrims.

The climb out of Cambarro was a lot steeper than what we were mentally prepared for after a big lunch.

One thing that Camino taught us was just how unfit we both were, especially for our age. It was not unusual for some ladies in their 60s to breeze past us. It is somewhat of a wake-up call for us to get our health in order back home. I started to think about doing Camino regularly to keep my health in check. Camino as a physical challenge is an interesting topic. While there are no physical requirements for walking the Camino, the pilgrimage forces us to listen to our bodies and be in tune with our physical and mental limitations. At the end of the Camino, I suspect we will be proud of our accomplishments.

Twenty minutes into the hike, we finally left the village behind. On the Buen Camino app, there is a pin indicating a donativo drink station up ahead. For those who don’t know what donativo stations mean, they are refreshment stands set up by locals for the passing pilgrims. In exchange, pilgrims could leave whatever amount they could afford. It is a wonderful embodiment of the Camino spirit: hospitality, generosity, and shared companionship. Although they are supposedly a common fixture along the Camino, this was the first one we encountered on our pilgrimage. Naturally, we were beyond excited.

Like most donativo stations, the refreshment stand here was unstaffed. There was just a basket out front where pilgrims could leave their donations. Inside the cooler is a wide variety of drinks ranging from bottled water and soft drinks to even light beer! Considering the cooler's well-stocked, I was surprised by how little money was left in the donation basket. I could only hope my fellow pilgrims were not stingy with the money. For two bottles of water and a soda we took, I left €5 in the basket to pay it forward. I hope the host's generosity will persist and keep this wonderful Camino spirit alive for the next generation of pilgrims.

Conversing with our fellow pilgrim was a wonderful distraction from the unrelenting incline.

At the refreshment stand, we met a fellow pilgrim, Pedro, from Brazil. Meeting Pedro was undoubtedly the highlight of the day for me. He came the closest to the image of a medieval pilgrim. Pedro’s first Camino was Camino Primitivo, and he described his pilgrim as a form of religious penance. While he did not elaborate on the nature of the sins he was atoning for, it was clear that it was grave enough to be taken seriously. He described his previous arrival to Santiago de Compostela in a religious term, and it was clear that the pilgrimage was a true transcendent journey for the soul. As a devoted Catholic, Pedro is well-versed in the history of the pilgrimage and religious teaching. Listening to his telling of various tales about local saints and past pilgrims almost reminded me of reliving The Canterbury Tales of Geoffrey Chaucer.

Don’t forget to look back toward the wonderful view.

Despite his twelve years of Catholic education, Brian was not interested in the religiosity of the Camino. Fortunately, Pedro was a great conversationalist, and we talked about everything from Galicia’s eucalyptus forest to Brazilian politics. Because Brian’s background was in TEFL (teaching English as a foreign language), so he was very interested in languages. It just so happens that Pedro is fluent in Portuguese, Spanish, and Gallego. According to Pedro, Gallego was closer to Portuguese than Spanish. Modern Portuguese language is a blend of archaic Gallego and Arabic. North Portugal is considered the cradle of Portuguese heritage, whereas the south is often regarded as a crossroad between Portuguese and Moorish culture. The historical and cultural ties between Galicia and northern Portugal are deep. In fact, the European Union designed this cross-national area as one of the EU’s official “Euroregions.”

The more *hórreo* the better in Galicia.

In additional interesting conversations, walking with Pedro also provided a much-needed distraction from the strenuous hike for this section of the trail. Much of this afternoon’s trek went through beautiful sections of forest land, but the persistent incline did make it quite a physical challenge. But Pedro’s steady pace and calm demeanor helped me pace the walk. Before we knew it, we were at the summit, blessed with a beautiful panoramic view of the surrounding valleys. While I could not comment on the scenery along the center route, we were very content with the Variante Espiritual thus far.

Pousada de Armenteira was almost too nice for us pilgrims.

From the summit, it was a quick descent toward the little village of Armenteira, our destination for our stage today. Armenteira is a tiny village with no downtown to speak of. So it was all the more surprising to find an ultra-modern contemporary hotel like Pousada de Armenteira. After a few days of guesthouses and “hostel” last night, I was happy to splurge to stay at this resort-like hotel. At €110, it was the priciest place we stayed at on the Camino. According to the receptionist I spoke with, most of their guests during the summer months are pilgrims. It made me less guilty.

Even though there is a well-known saying that everyone walks their own Camino, there are still plenty of unkind judgments on the Camino. There is a general disdain for high-end accommodation among the hardcore pilgrims (or Camino fanatics, as I would call them). They often scuff at pilgrims who did not stay in public albergue or travel as frugally as they do. Of course, such opinion and attitude is often expressed in a passive-aggressive, off-handed way. The pilgrims often chose to segregate themselves along this “class” divide. I suppose Camino is a reflection of the larger society that we live in.

Armenteira is a popular end-stage on Variante Espiritual, not just because of its geographical location but also because of its Romanesque monastery. Until very recently, the monastery also provides accommodation for passing pilgrims. On our way into the village, Pedro told us about the Legend of Ero of Armenteira. This famous tale centered around a knight called Ero. While praying for God for heirs, the intercession of the Virgin Mary instructed the couple that they were destined to have many “spiritual children” instead. Heeding the advice, the couple decided to found two monasteries. Inevitably, Ero became the abbot at the Armenteira Monastery.

Walking with Pedro was one of the major highlight of the day.

Allegedly, he was restless one day and went for a long walk outside the monastery to contemplate the afterlife. He went into the surrounding valley to enjoy the song of birds. After about three hours, he returned to the monastery to find the front door shut. When he knocked, a strange monk answered the door, to Ero’s confusion. Shockingly, he could not recognize a single monk in the monastery. Ero was surprised to learn that three hundred years had passed while he was out for three hours. In that instance, he realized that while listening to the birds sing, he had been living in the glory of paradise for three centuries by the providence of the Virgin Mary.

Romanesque facade of Armenteira Monastery Church.

Above the main gate of the monastery, there is a sculptural relief panel illustrating this legend. This tale became so widespread that it became one of the most well-known tales in Spain. As interesting as this legend is, few pilgrims knew about it. Instead, what drew pilgrims here was the monastery’s singing nuns. At six o’clock every evening, the cloistered nuns hosted a special pilgrim mass. Brian and I were late for the mass, and we were surprised that the mass was held not in the main church but in an inconspicuous room off the cloister. Unlike cloistered nunneries I visited previously, there was no screen dividing the nuns from the laity.

The nuns here seemed to come from all corners of the world. Their singing may not be pitch-perfect, but it was angelic to the ears. Toward the end of the mass, a special prayer was read out in several European languages to reflect the nationalities of visiting pilgrims. Because none of the nuns was fluent in German and Italian, the priest invited a German and Italian to say their respective prayers. The whole mass lasted approximately thirty minutes. I was surprised even Bian enjoyed the mass; this might be the first time in the past ten years that he attended a mass voluntarily. My favorite part about the mass was that a sister would stamp your pilgrim credential. I regretted leaving our credentials at the hotel.

After the mass, it seemed like everyone was heading straight to the nearby Bar O Comercio for dinner. To continue our seafood feast at lunch, I ordered a plate of padrón pepper and razor clams. It was no match to our lunch at Combarro, but it was nevertheless very satisfying. At dinner, we came across the Danish and Estonian pilgrims again. I think this was the third straight day of meeting them. Although we exchanged some standard pleasantries, we never clicked as fellow pilgrims for whatever reason. They made a funny face when I told them we were staying at the 4-star resort in town.

I am in love with the contemporary architecture of Pousada de Armenteira.

According to the weather forecast, the next three days will be nonstop rain. Knowing this may be our last moment of clear sky for this Camino, I wanted to cherish every moment. Unpredictable weather may be a fact of life on Camino, but I must admit that I have this constant anxiety about walking in the rain. Perhaps it won’t be that bad tomorrow after all.

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Camino Portugués: Day 10 - Pontevedra to Armenteira

Camino Portugués: Day 11 - Armenteira to Vilanova de Arousa

Camino Portugués: Day 9 - Redondela to Pontevedra