Camino Portugués: Day 12 - Vilanova de Arousa to Santiago de Compostela

The big day was finally here; this should be our final day on the Camino. Although it ought to be the time for celebration, I admit I dreaded it. After getting drenched from the day prior, I have been monitoring the weather app like a hawk. According to the app, it was projected to be a thunderstorm for the next 36 hours. Especially considering that this last stage is also the longest in the whole Camino, the thought of walking in the rain into Santiago de Compostela seemed a little depressing. At five o’clock, I was awakened by the sound of the rain. The downpour was so intense that I saw flooding on the streets. For the next two hours, I barely slept due to anxiety about the weather.

According to the instructions from the pilgrim boat operator, we were supposed to arrive at the dock by eight o’clock, about half an hour before sunrise. Because the La Traslatio boat rides traverse the tidal estuary of Río Ulla, the departure time varies each day due to the tide schedule. At first, I was disappointed with the early departure. I wished we had a few more hours for the sky to clear up. It turned out to be moot because of the crappy weather. The boat's departure point was in front of Vilanova de Arousa’s giant tourist information booth. By the time we arrived, there were already two dozen pilgrims around. It was strange that we only recognized only a few of them. I suppose I am not a particularly outgoing person on the trail.

After about five minutes, a boat approached the dock. It was a medium-sized boat with a yellow color and an interior cabin. It turned out this boat was from the Pilgrim’s Boat, which was the one that Matthias and Mieke were taking. According to Matthias, this boat is €10 less than the one we would be taking. So I was just curious about the difference between the two that justify the noticeable price difference. Just as we were wondering about the status of our boat, two tiny vessels entered the harbor. They were only a quarter the size of the yellow boat and open top. Open-top cruises are my jam, but perhaps not in a rainstorm. For a moment, I hoped we were on the cheaper boat.

Joined our boat were the Danish and Estonian duo we had been meeting daily. They were the ones who told me about this boat operator. Each boat carried eight pilgrims and was manned by two crew members. When we got into the boat, the sky brightened and lightened. I supposed this day was starting relatively well after all. We shared the front of the boat with four pilgrims from England, who were all in a very good mood. They certainly gave a more positive outlook this morning. Early on, It was clear that this boat ride was not just transportation from Point A to Point B. The captain pointed out different points of interest along the way.

Our first stop was in the middle of the river to watch a family of fishermen harvesting mussels. The Atlantic coast of Galicia is a major region for shellfish production. All across the estuary are fields of anchor ropes that hold the mussels. Ever since we visited Belgium five years ago, we got into the habit of cooking mussels about once a month. It is an affordable form of protein and the most sustainable seafood available. Because mussels act as a natural filtration system for the marine environment, mussel cultivation is environmentally beneficial and could even heal the habitat.

While we have been consuming mussels all these years, we have no idea how they are raised. So it was quite eye-opening to see the mussels harvest up close. It was amazing how much mussel could be harvested in such a short time. The production rate of the farm was mind-boggling. A single rope line can produce up to 7.5 tons of mussels yearly. Now, we understand why they are so much cheaper than any other kind of seafood out there. That said, it is still a hard line of work, even with the help of modern equipment. It felt a little funny that the group operator would bring a group of pilgrims to this family daily to watch them carrying out their work.

The central question for the day is why pilgrims choose to get into a motorized boat as part of the Camino. Isn’t the point of the pilgrimage to walk every step to Santiago de Compostela? Well, this waterway has a historical significance in the history of the Camino. According to the accepted teaching of the Catholic Church, the Apostle James was beheaded in Jerusalem in 44 A.D. at the hands of Herod Agrippa I, the King of Judaea. But how his relic ended up in Galicia is still debated.

In one story version, James’s disciples Athanasius and Theodore transported his body on a boat to the “end of the world”: the northwestern corner of the Iberian Peninsula. According to legend, James set up a ministry early in his career in Spain. In one version of the story, James’s disciples Athanasius and Theodore stole his body on a boat to escape the Kingdom of Judaea. This boat turned out to be rudderless and was left to drift across the sea by the divine guidance of an angel. The boat eventually ended up at the “end of the world,” the northwestern corner of the Iberian Peninsula.

The boat sailed upstream of Río Ulla and eventually came to shore in Iria Flavia, the present-day Padrón. According to traditions, the apostle preached in Iria Flavia during his lifetime, back when a Celtic tribe settled in the area. It was only “natural” that the Apostle’s remain’s would end up here. Saint James was buried at Iria Flavia for the next 800 hundred years. It was not until the early 9th century that a local hermit named Pelagius led the rediscovery of the saint’s remains by following supernatural phenomena in the sky. In the 11th century, the local bishop petitioned the king and the Pope to relocate the relic (and the bishop's seat) to Compostela, which is more defensible due to its inland location.

While there is no way to verify the legend of how the holy relic reached Compostela, it is clear that this 17-mile water route is full of historical and cultural significance. It plays a central role in the modern creation of the Variante Spiritual. Along this route, there are a series of twelve sets of stone cruses. They create the world's only official maritime Stations of the Cross (Fluvial Via Crucis). And just like the Variante Spiritual, these crosses are relatively modern creations dating back to the 1960s. The crew did a good job of providing the historical context for the crosses. From my understanding, only one set of crosses is accessible to the public. If anything, it makes the whole experience very special.

Midway through the cruise, we came upon the ruins of Torres de Oeste. The towers were part of a larger defensive complex that guarded the river. In the 10th century, the local bishop put plenty of resources into upgrading the fortification to guard against marauding pirates. In its heyday, the fortress had seven towers and a chapel dedicated to Saint James. In many ways, the castle ruin is a testament to the unique history of the relic. Unfortunately, a modern bridge runs next to the castle, undermining the national monument's unique historical ambiance.

Nowadays, the castle ruin is a national monument and the ground zero of the annual Viking Festival of Catoira. On the first Sunday of every August, the people of the nearby village of Catoira reenact a mock battle of the Viking invasions. The festival commemorates the village’s role in defending Galicia against the Vikings in the 11th century. Half of the villagers took the role of the Viking invaders, and the others played the role of defenders. The climate of the festival was the pirate’s arrival on the reconstructed Viking longboats and an attempt to take the castle. The festival ended with an afternoon of traditional music and a Galician food feast.

The recreated Viking long boats near Torres de Oeste.

Soon after passing the castle, the weather turned, and the rain began to pour down. In my own craziness and wisdom, I changed into flip-flops before getting in the boat, so I was well-prepared for the downpour. I was determined not to start today’s hike with wet socks. The crew throttled the boat at full speed since we had finished seeing all the stone crosses. Our boat soon streamed past the other pilgrim boats, which traveled much slower. Before long, we arrived at the dock at Pontecesures. Before disembarking, everyone had their pilgrim passports stamped; it was one of my most treasured stamps on the Camino.

Among our fellow passengers, the most interesting character has got to be Maria. Originally from Hong Kong, she is probably my favorite fellow pilgrim on the whole Camino. Maria doesn’t feed into any stereotype of a Hong Konger. Honestly, she looked like a “bag lady” and had an endearing “ditzy” personality. A bogus pilgrim boat company scammed her. Fortunately, the crew of our boat was able to accommodate her at the last minute. Since she was just about the first solo Asian pilgrim I encountered, I couldn’t help but start conversations with her.

An obligatory picture with our fellow pilgrims Maria and Tomsen.

Maria met her husband on Camino and moved to Portugal after marrying him. Ever since that first Camino, she has been walking a few pilgrimages every year. She always walked the Portuguese route since she lives right on Camino Portugués. She embodied a true Camino enthusiast. And like everything in life, a veteran like her has plenty of wisdom to share with rookies like us. For instance, she told us always to avoid the first cafe in town, as it is typically overpriced with bad service. Because she has spent so much time on the trail, she is very worldly and a good judge of character. I actually think she is both the least pretentious and the most opinionated person I have ever met. I found her to be endlessly fascinating.

In addition to walking the Camino, Maria operates a pilgrim refuge (Refugio dos Peregrinos) with her husband. Situated about ten miles south of Coimbra, Refugio Peregrino Nicolau is an interesting-looking place. The ground is littered with brightly colored decorations related to the pilgrimage. Her place operated on a donation (donativo) basis. However, she lamented how often pilgrims treat donativo places as free lodging. She recalled that eight French pilgrims spent a night at her camp last year. In addition to lodging, the group was also provided with two-course dinners. Altogether, they dropped only a €10 bill into the donation box. According to Maria, stinginess of that degree is the norm. When I asked her whether hosting pilgrims is a worthy endeavor, she expressed no hesitation. For her, the Camino is a life journey, not a business.

After bidding goodbye to Maria, we continued our journey to Santiago. Even though we barely walked a quarter of a mile today, I already felt reasonably accomplished just because of the early boat ride. It did not occur to me that we still had a full day of walking ahead of us. This is also where Variante Spiritual merges back with the Central Route. Naturally, I wonder what kind of experience the central route would be. But I do not doubt that it could get any better than the last two days on the trail despite the less-than-ideal weather.

This place definitely reminds me a great deal of Ponte de Lima.

On paper, Variante Spiritual is quite a detour distance-wise, but the boat ride makes up for the mileage. Even though the church officially recognizes the boat ride, the distance traveled on the boat would not count toward the 100-kilometer minimum distance required of the Compostela. It is almost odd to see the distance marker ticking down closer and closer to the single digit. The reality of this pilgrimage coming to a close is becoming more and more real by the minute.

In the blink of a time, we arrived at the town of Padrón. Traditionally, this is considered the last stop before Santiago. As mentioned earlier, Padrón (formerly Iria Flavia) was the original place of Saint James’s relics. This historic town reminded me a great deal of Ponte de Lima. In particular, the riverside promenade, Paseo Do Espolón, is particularly reminiscent of Avenida dos Plátanos, which we visited nearly a week earlier. Even with all the rain, the city seemed like a wonderful place pilgrims could spend a few hours exploring. But with so much mileage ahead of us, we decided just to press ahead.

However, I did make a point of visiting the Church of Santiago of Padrón. Under the high altar is a Roman-era sacrificial stone (pedrón) dedicated to Neptune, the Roman god of the water and the city's namesake. It was honestly odd to see a pagan monument in the middle of a Catholic church. But as the legend goes, the boat carrying James’s body moored to this stone. The more likely explanation is that the Catholic church used an existing pagan symbol to help evangelize the local population, the same reason why Christmas is now celebrated in December.

But one reason for stopping at the church was for a more practical reason. To qualify for Compostella, pilgrims must collect at least two passport stamps for the last 100 kilometers. Since we were so close to Santiago, I was eager to collect my second (and perhaps the final) stamp. As we exited the church, I recognized a similar individual praying by the altar. It was Pedro, the Italian pilgrim that we met in Combarro. While I wanted to say hello, I did not want to disturb his prayer, knowing how religious he was. Well, I am sure we will meet again in Santiago.

The cemetery of the Collegiate Church of Santa María de Iria Flavia.

Luckily, the rain let up for the rest of the morning so that we could enjoy the last day of our Camino in relative comfort. A few minutes north of Padrón is the parish of Iria Flavia, whose skyline is dominated by the Collegiate Church of Santa María de Iria Flavia. The massive church was founded in the 8th century, and the current structure dates to the 19th century. According to tradition, the original church is supposed to be the oldest Marian church on the Iberian peninsula and among the oldest churches in Galicia. For most pilgrims, the most evocative feature of the church would be its huge cemetery, which abuts the trail. Among the notable burial here is Camilo José Cela, the Spanish novelist and the winner of the 1989 Novel Prize in Literature.

Since rejoining the center route, the pilgrim traffic has increased substantially. We ran into the group of Canadian pilgrims we met at lunch two days ago. In conversations, it seemed everyone was having a short day today, ending their stage roughly ten miles from Santiago de Compostela. In our minds, we started questioning whether we were right to finish the Camino today.

We will soon miss the ubiquitous Camino signage.

Upon leaving Iria Flavia, the route tracks alongside the N-550 route, which may not be the prettiest track but is quite interesting in seeing the range of businesses around here. My personal favorite, of course, is a granite yard specializing in hórreo and pilgrimage-related sculptures. Eventually, the route became more rural, and quite a good collection of beautiful churches was dotted along the way. My favorite is the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Escravitude, known for the water fountain out front that supposedly has miraculous properties. According to the legend, a pilgrim on his way to Santiago drank the fountain and cured his chronic edema before reaching Santiago.

Across from the church is a little restaurant called Bar & Restaurante Buen Camino. Since we skipped breakfast this morning, we were keen to have lunch early. However, their lunch service would not start for another 40 minutes. Their service was also not particularly great. The girl who worked there was probably the least friendly person we met on Camino; it took twenty minutes to get our espresso. It makes the name “Buen Camino” quite ironic.

I would love to live in this house! It looks almost like a contemporary art project.

Instead of just waiting for lunch service to start, we tried our luck at another restaurant a couple of minutes down the road. Restaurante Parrillada Reina Lupa is a large Galician parrillada that resembles a local version of Outback Steakhouse. Because this place is technically off the official Camino trail, it caters to local clientele. As much as I enjoyed pilgrim restaurants, being among only the locals for once was great. We both opted for their €10 daily menu, which includes a massive caldron of soup, grille meats, and wine. The food portion here is massive, which is ideal for hungry pilgrims. It may not be gourmet, but it definitely hit the spot.

Food aside, the restaurant’s namesake, “Reina Lupa” (or Queen Lupa), is quite significant in the history of Camino. According to common legend, Athanasius and Theodore approached Queen Lupa for a place to bury Apostle James. As a pagan, she purposefully pointed them the wrong way twice, but they both managed to return to safety. In the end, their persistence and dedication to the apostle inspired the queen. She ended up converting to Christianity and provided a place for Apostle James. So it was thanks to Queen Lupa that Camino exists.

As we were getting our pilgrim passports stamped, the boss at the restaurant asked where we started our day. After learning we took the boat from Vilanova de Arousa, he asked how far we were walking today. When we mentioned that we were going to Santiago today, he seemed surprised and remarked: “Wow, that is far. Buen Camino!”. Well, we have been feeling pretty chill chilled until this point. A sense of doubt inevitably surfaced. Were we too ambitious with today’s stage? Perhaps we should have rested and made our arrival at Santiago de Compostela more enjoyable tomorrow.

After lunch, the trek branched off the busy road into the countryside. By then, the sun and blue sky had returned, and I was practically giddy. After worrying about the weather for the past two days, our final day was not that bad. I should not worry too much about what is out of my control. This is just one of the life lessons I took away from my Camino. Even though I still can’t help myself checking the weather app every hour, inclement weather no longer stresses me out. It wouldn't bother us even if it were to rain cats and dogs the rest of the way. We feel like we could almost see the cathedral spire on the horizon.

Galician weather is notoriously unpredictable.

As the mileage markers continue to tick down below 20 kilometers, a sense of melancholy soon set in. Every time I passed by a noticeable feature, I couldn’t help wondering whether this would be the last hórreo or stone cross on this Camino. Perhaps this is why many pilgrims have a short day before reaching Santiago. It would allow a lot more time for self-reflection on the last leg of the pilgrimage. It was an ambivalent feeling. At the start of the Camino, we can’t wait to knock off some mileage. Fast forward to now, I wish the pilgrimage would be just a little bit longer.

Because not many of our fellow pilgrims were aiming to reach Santiago de Compostela today, there was hardly any pilgrimage on this particular section of the trail. At around O Faramello, we ran into tour Danish and Estonian “friends” again. This made the fifth day that we ran into them in the afternoon. And like almost everybody else on the trail, they also seemed surprised we planned to reach Santiago today. Because they tend to walk much faster than us, it was unsettling to learn that even they were less ambitious than us.

Appropriately, the last twenty kilometers of this pilgrimage are like the microcosm of my Camino journey. Physically, this last two-hour trek is perhaps the most diverse section of the whole trail. The scenery changed between the woodland, suburb, and industrial zone every ten minutes. People often say that one would often experience flashbacks right before death. I felt as if we experienced the Camino equivalence of a flashback. I honestly did not expect to enjoy this final few hours this much.

Oh my god, we are officially under the 10-kilometer mark.

By the time we reached the city of O Milladoiro, we were both exhausted. It is a satellite town of Santiago de Compostela and part of the metropolitan area. For the first time, we saw public city buses bearing the name of the fabled city. We were so tantalizing close to our ultimate destination. O Milladoiro is just about the tidiest Spanish town I have visited. The architecture adheres to strict zoning and building codes as a centrally planned city. Just about every building here is six stories tall with red roof tiles. Depending on your taste, it might remind you of romantic Paris or the dystopic capital of the Hunger Games movies.

Before making a final push, we took a quick break at the attached cafe of the city’s cultural center. We were both physically spent, but our spirits were high. We also took this opportunity to fill out all the missing dates on our pilgrim passports. To collect their compostela, pilgrims must collect at least one stamp every day and two stamps per day for the last 100 kilometers. According to various sources, some church officials at Santiago examine pilgrim passports closely and go over one’s itinerary day by day. Since we have been procrastinating until now, it took us half an hour to fill in all the correct dates.

When we were ready to return to the trail, the sky had turned stormy toward Santiago de Compostela. It was the most menacing cloud we saw on the trail thus far. But because we were so close to the destination, we decided to risk it. Of course, the downpour began immediately upon leaving O Milladoiro. On the map, the route seems to take an unnecessarily big detour. But in reality, the trail is simply navigating the steep ravine that separates O Milladoiro and Santiago. The scenery is surprisingly idyllic and rural; it was hard to believe we were just outside Santiago.

Suddenly, we spotted the sunlit cathedral spires on the horizon. Like all the pilgrims before us, we were jubilant, adding a spring to my steps. Because we were so close to the city, I could not resist opening the Buen Camino app to track our progress. From the satellite view, I could see that we were about to exit the last forested section of the trail. I could not help feeling a little emotion about it. After all, nature walking is the most enjoyable experience on the Camino. As I walked past a moss-covered marker of 3.718 km, I took stock of how far we had come on this journey.

Entering the city proper of Santiago de Compostela for first-time pilgrims was a strange experience. Because I had imagined this moment in my head for so many days, it was almost difficult to put it into words. Architecturally, the outskirt of the city looks just like any other Spanish metropolis. With a population of almost 100,000, this is the largest city on this Camino since we left Porto. Lining the street are hipster cafes and cross-fit gyms; there was a whiff of cosmopolitan in the air here.

But honestly, the most noticeable “cultural shock” about being in Santiago was just how indifferent locals are toward pilgrims. In almost every other town, locals often recognize pilgrims with a simple “Buen Camino” or a simple wave…. Even at O Milladoiro, which is literally across the city’s boundary. It was almost a little disappointing that we all lost our unique status as pilgrims when we arrived at Santiago. Of course, that was not to say that the people of Santiago are unfriendly. I suppose the locals probably see us like most New Yorkers would feel about your average tourists in Times Square.

The route of Camino Portugués follows Rúa de Santa Marta de Arriba into the center of town. Although the locals certainly don’t make a big deal out of pilgrims, there are symbols of pilgrimage everywhere for anyone who cares to look. The cynic inside me can’t help wondering whether most of these signs or markers were put up for religious or commercial reasons. Undoubtedly, the modern revival of Camino de Santiago is now an integral part of the local economy. As we inched toward the old town, the commercialization of the pilgrimage became more pronounced. However, it still could not take away Camino's spirit.

We can’t help seeing the rainbow as a warm welcome to Santiago.

After about ten minutes, a rainbow appeared in the sky. Like medical pilgrims, we would like to imagine this is a divine message and perhaps a celebration of the Camino. We could forget about our sore bodies and wet shoes for just this brief moment. Compared to any other town on the Camino, I was not in the mood for sightseeing for once. Our singular focus at this point was to reach our final destination as soon as possible. While Brian was eager to wrap up this very long day, I was keen on getting to the cathedral while the sun was still peeking through the clouds.

A *galeria* is an enclosed balcony in a glass frame protecting it from Galicia's cool winters and making it usable all year round.

The old town of Santiago was quite a scene of madness. Teeming with pilgrims and tourists, the narrow street sharply contrasted with the peaceful trails of the Camino. From the end of the street, the cathedral spires stand out in the distance as beacons. Even though I have seen plenty of pictures of the cathedral, it still did not prepare me for the majesty of this place. By number, the cathedral may not be extraordinarily tall by modern standards. But in the minds of most pilgrims, this edifice is just about the most magnificent structure on earth. This inanimate structure how epitomizes all the pain and joy of our pilgrimage.

As I stared at the cathedral, the overwhelming emotion was immense gratitude. I am grateful that I completed this pilgrimage in relatively good health. I am grateful to all the fellow pilgrims that enrich this experience. Perhaps most importantly, I am grateful to Brian for sharing this unique experience. Though walking the Camino de Santiago is on my travel bucket list, he dreaded it for the past few months. Several times during the Camino, Brian confessed that he did not find Camino to be enjoyable. I honestly thought he might give up. I am so glad that he stuck out with me. Ultimately, I think he was ready to admit that he came to enjoy the Camino. He no longer rules out joining in for my next Camino!

The Santiago de Compostela Archcathedral Basilica.

As we were taking some obligatory pictures in front of the cathedral, we striked up conversations with three pilgrims: Carla, Jair, and Monique. They completed the coastal route of Camino Portugués the day before. All three walked the Camino solo but became instant best friends by the journey's end. By staying at public albergues, they got to spend a lot of time together. By the sound of it, there was plenty of booze and partying. Everyone indeed walks their own Camino. It got me thinking about how different our Camino might be with more communal lodging choices. I suppose this is the beauty of the Camino; each person’s pilgrimage is unique and beautiful.

When we arrived at the main square, it was just past six o’clock. It seemed like we were among the last pilgrim arrivals for the day. Coupled with unpredictable weather this afternoon, there weren’t many pilgrimages around. As far as the communal atmosphere was concerned, our experience was perhaps a little anticlimactic. It would have been a different scene if we arrived in the early afternoon, as most pilgrims do. Because the Pilgrim’s Reception Office has already closed, we must return tomorrow to get our Compostela. Technically, we have another full day on our Camino journey.

With all the trekking part of the Camino behind us, we let the frugalness of pilgrimage go by the wayside. Aside from public albergues, the accommodation in Santiago was surprisingly expensive. With the increasing popularity and seasonality of the Camino, the city is mobbed this time of the year. It was difficult to find any place to stay for less than €100 a night at the last minute. After twelve days on the trail, we splurged on two nights at Aldara Suites. The two-story loft is tastefully renovated and has a sublime city view. Santiago turned out to be a much more beautiful town than I imagined. I may appreciate the simple lodging on the Camino, but I can’t help being giddy about staying in such a luxurious place.

The residential neighborhood of Santiago de Compostela.

After a quick shower and popping in a load of laundry, we were ready to explore the city and take in the historical ambiance. Like most days on the Camino, it was the most painful right after I took off my shoes. Being a casual pilgrim, I was accustomed to walking around the town in flip-flops. Man, it was painful walking up the steep hill of the city and navigating the cobbled stone lanes. For a city known for pilgrimage, I did not expect the locals and general tourists to outnumber pilgrims. I did not expect to stick out like a sore thumb in Santiago. However, that did not mean we people were staring at me like I was a crazy hobo.

The charming street of the old center of Santiago de Compostela.

With so many restaurants in town, choosing a place for dinner was overwhelming. I already missed the simplicity of the Camino when it came to picking a place to eat. After walking around the city center, we picked a little tapas bar called Vilar 64 Gastrobar. This little bar served the best food on the entire Camino. The menu consists of both traditional fare and international fusion. I don’t care what other pilgrims claim; food is definitely not the highlight of our Camino. So it is great to know that I could look forward to Santiago for my next Camino.

Well, this is a wrap for Day 12 for us. I could say that this is one day I will never forget. This has been a very long day, so much so that I felt like this was a microcosm of the entire pilgrimage. We were both thoroughly exhausted by this point. Our goal tomorrow is to get to Pilgrim’s Reception Office early to get our Compostela and attend the pilgrim mass. After that, we could officially wrap up our Camino Portugués.

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Camino Portugués: Day 12 - Vilanova de Arousa to Santiago de Compostela

Camino Portugués: Day 13 - Santiago de Compostela

Camino Portugués: Day 11 - Armenteira to Vilanova de Arousa