Camino Portugués: Day 4 - Tamel to Ponte de Lima

Once again, we struggled to sleep well last night because of the heat and the lack of ventilation in our room. At around 2 am, I woke up and walked onto the room’s terrace to catch the evening breeze. I ended up sitting in the chair in a bid to cool off. Ultimately, I did not get back to sleep until 4 am. Needless to say, I was quite grumpy and vowed we would only stay at a place with air conditioning for the rest of this Camino. The “Camino purists” may cringe at how high maintenance we are, but that was just our honest feeling. At the end of the day, everyone walks their own Camino.

Our breakfast experience mimicked our bizarre dinner yesterday. Again, we were the only guests in the whole place and were attended to by the same server. I could tell he was not too happy we picked the earliest possible time for breakfast. The spread was ample but lacked any warmth or soul we experienced at Labruge. Since we haven’t seen any staff member at the guesthouse thus far today, we left the key in the room and said farewell to their dogs. This ghostly hotel is not a place we would forget anytime soon.

Occasionally, two types of yellow arrows point in the same direction.

It was a quick five-minute stroll from the guesthouse before we rejoined the main Camino route. As we passed by the empty municipal albergue, it was apparent that we were among the late starters on the trail. But seeing many other pilgrims on the trail was still gratifying. For the first time on Camino, we felt as if we were in the company of our Camino family. At this hour, everyone seemed to be in good spirits. As the mountain mist gradually rolled in from the ridge, we marveled at how pleasant this morning was. After previous days of intense sun, I did not mind a bit of cloud. Thinking about it, this might be the first time I ever wished for an overcast sky while on vacation!

Although we had sections of occasional road walking, there was nearly no traffic to speak of. This section of Camino alternates between asphalt, dirt trails, and cobblestone. I am surprised by how wide the cobblestones roads are in Portugal. Before the Camino, I always associated cobblestone with historic cities like Lisbon, Coimbra, and Porto. I did not expect it to be quite a common type of pavement in a rural area like this one. Perhaps its popularity has much to do with the ease of maintenance and keeping the craftsmanship alive. Like most pilgrims, we have a love/hate relationship with cobblestones. While they provide excellent surface grip, they could also wreck your feet if you don’t have enough cushion in your shoes.

The modern design of the New Church of Our Lady of Fatima in Aborim definitely turned a lot of heads.

The first landmark we encountered this morning was the New Church of Our Lady of Fatima in Aborim. The modern church looks like a synthesis of Finlandia Hall and Casa da Música. It was a refreshing break from the traditional granite and stucco construction we have been accustomed to. The mammoth church is clunky but still blends into its rural setting because of the red terracotta roof tiles and white-washed walls. I am surprised by how frequently we come across a church or chapel. However, one disappointing thing about the Portuguese churches we visited so far is that few were open to the public outside the religious service. It was particularly unfortunate, given that this is a Catholic pilgrimage.

Immediately past the church, the trail descended into the valley to Tamel Railway Station. Given how little we slept last night, we joked that perhaps we should jump on a train, and we could be in Santiago in less than two hours. Joking aside, it was not uncommon for pilgrims to use trains to skip certain sections of the Camino. Some pilgrims take the train from Barcelos here to get to Ponte de Lima in one day without walking for 24 miles. With sixteen miles planned for today’s stage, I felt good about today’s walk. According to the app, there should be no significant elevational change.

Before we knew it, we arrived at Ponte das Tábuas. At least nine hundred years old, this bridge has been used by pilgrims since medieval times. Although the modern revival of Camino does not bear much resemblance to the pilgrimage of the past, this is one of the few places where we could really feel the historical continuity. Acknowledge the bridge’s importance; the local government pedestrianized the traffic in 2019 to better preserve this precious but diminutive monument. Next to the bridge is a shallow pool, a popular place for a refreshing dip for tired pilgrims. Unfortunately, we did not see anybody taking up that opportunity.

Ponte das Tábuas has been hosting pilgrims for centuries.

It was another quick ten minutes before we reached the village of Balugães. Right before, there was a nice little roadside fountain and picnic table. It was a perfect rest stop and an ideal meeting spot for pilgrims. It is like a watering hole in Serengeti that you would see on National Geographic. In just five minutes, we met six pilgrims, including a family of four from France, two Canadians, and a Brazilian. The lady from Brazil told us she started her day at Barcelos and planned to make it to Ponte de Lima today. That would make it a 24-mile trek and not an easy feat. Even more impressive was that this was her first day on her first-ever Camino. Now, that was ambitious!

Can’t believe it took us this long to meet our first herd of sheeps.

Among all the villages we visited so far, Balugães has the most infrastructure when it comes to water fountains, public rest areas, and pilgrim signage. Most seem to be almost new and in good working order. Clearly, the village took the pilgrimage seriously and saw it as pivotal to its economic future. Brian and I are very interested to learn about the economic impact of the revival of Caminos on rural communities. In the age of urbanization and increased rural-urban divide, Camino must positively impact most communities it passed through.

The trail began to flatten out after crossing N204 and passing by the Chapel of Our Lady of Fatima in the village of Poiares. The path became quite meandering among the acres and acres of vineyard. While that may sound idyllic, I must admit that the heat and lack of shades made it quite challenging. Ten minutes in, we were both exhausted and starving. According to Google Maps and other Camino apps, no cafe or restaurant was miles around. Since we determined not to backtrack, we had to march on and hope that we would find a lunch place soon enough.

According to many, Casa Da Fernanda is the most legendary albergue on Camino Portugués.

One of the most popular stops along this section of the Camino is a private albergue: Casa Da Fernanda. Among pilgrims on Camino Portugués, this humble donativo hostel has a towering reputation. Run by a husband and wife team, Fernanda and Jazindo are known for their hospitality and pilgrim dinners. It is often said that if there is one hostel that anyone should try to stay at, Casa da Fernanda would be it. Before the Camino's start, I considered staying there, perhaps. But we decided to forego this opportunity given Brian’s aversion toward communal sleeping arrangements and how our daily stages work out. However, I did get excited when I saw the sign as if it were an important cultural monument. By serendipity, Fernanda was speaking with a pilgrim at the entrance so we could see this Camino legend and receive a “bom caminho” from her. I counted that as something special by itself.

According to Google Maps, it was a twenty-minute walk to O Lagar de Valinhas, the only area restaurant that should be open during lunchtime. According to the review, it was a very nice bar and grill and a perfect place for relaxation. So you can imagine the surprise of seeing the “fechado” sign mounted beneath their business plaque. With no other restaurant in the area, we were not the only pilgrim whose lunch plan was thrown out of the window. There was a little group of us conferring with each other to see whether there was any other alternative.

The Parish Church of San Andrew in Vitorino dos Piães.

Within a few minutes, the Brazilian lady we met earlier showed up. And just like us, she was flabbergasted by the surprise restaurant closure. We could tell that she was not doing too well. Given the mileage she has walked thus far, I could imagine just how hungry and exhausted she must be. The three of us mulled over our backup plan and decided to try our luck at Café Nelita in the nearby village of Vitorino dos Piães. Based on the pictures online, we did not have high expectations. It looks more like an espresso bar than a place for lunch. But when you were starving, even a vending machine would be an oasis. Sure enough, the cafe is a snack bar with no fresh food. We ended up having Doritos and Fanta for lunch.

Over lunch, we commiserated with our new Brazilian friend and got to know her more. We spent the rest of the afternoon walking together. Nicole (pronounced Nico-Lee in Portuguese) is a lawyer working for Brazil’s federal Ministry of Sports in Brasilia. Naturally, I could not help asking about her perspective on the 2016 Rio Olympics. Interestingly, she immediately pivoted the conversations toward the humiliating 2014 World Cup 1-7 loss to Germany. I am always surprised by how often I heard Brazilians talk about that devastating defeat, which was often unprompted. Outsiders like me underestimate the lasting social impact of that match.

Because this was the Camino, we cannot avoid discussing what motivated us to take this pilgrimage. Nicole spoke of Camino as the opportunity to unplug and take on a physical challenge. As it happened, today was her 45th birthday, and Camino was a birthday present to herself. Because Nicole booked all her accommodations for the entire Camino two months ago, she was held hostage by her rigidly planned schedule. She has another 24-mile day tomorrow. I could only imagine what a physical that might be for a first-time pilgrim. She had only eight days to walk from Barcelos to Santiago de Compostela. I honestly felt a little nervous for her.

What was particularly interesting about walking with our fellow pilgrims was how quickly the time went. Camino is an invitation to converse. We felt like we learned a lot about and from Nicole. Among the topics, we spoke about her perspectives on the upcoming presidential election in Brazil and her impression of the United States. All Brazilians visited the same four cities in America: Orlando, Las Vegas, New York, and Los Angeles. Interestingly, theme parks and casinos are a big draw for international visitors.

On a more personal level, what connected us was the topic of adoption. She and her partner have been on Brazil’s adoption waiting list for a few years now, so we were happy to share our adoption story in the United States. In Brazil, nearly all adoptions went through a central government registry. Even though the adoption process could take years through the system, the cost is minimal compared to the private adoption process Brian and I experienced in the United States. Even though our adoption was not successful, we still felt a special affinity toward those who were going through the process. Our conversations with Nicole were therapeutic in dealing with our own loss.

We have got to try a bottle of local wine.

The best thing about walking with fellow pilgrims is how fast time passes. We got lost in our conversations. Part of our concern has been finding fellow pilgrims who walked at the same pace as us. “Fortunately,” Nicole was just as sluggish as we were because of the distance she had already walked in one day. She joked and showed us a video of her dancing in her hiking boots at the start of the day. Toward the end of the day, she could barely move when we reached the village of Correlhã. Brian and I became concerned about her well-being.

Just as we arrived at Ponte da Senhora das Neves, we encountered an Italian pilgrim who appeared lost. For whatever reason, the yellow arrows seemed to vanish around the bridge. The Italian pilgrim appeared in his early fifties and was very friendly and energetic. He might be the first Western European I came across who did not speak a single word of English, not even a “how are you?” Of course, I was not implying that all Europeans should know English, but I marvel at how he managed not to acquire a phrase or two just on the Camino. But despite our language barrier, we could still converse with my very limited Italian. I learned that he came from Locorotondo in Puglia, and we spoke about our recent visit to his home region.

Keeping the spirit high despite the exhaustion.

After a rest break before the Capela of Our Lady of Snow (Nossa Senhora Das Neves), we gathered enough strength to finish the last 30-minute walk to Ponte de Lima. Just like the past few days, we learned the last stretch of the stage could be painful but also the most beautiful when it comes to daylight and comfort. By chance, we discovered we booked the same hotel as Nicole. We were able to finish today’s stage together. The approach to the Ponte de Lima was quite magnificent. As the name suggests, the city was a historic crossing point for Rio Lima. Seeing the city was like an adrenaline shot for all three of us.

The Camino path brought us to the Avenue of the Plane Trees (Avenida dos Plátanos), a monumental promenade lined with massive plane trees. Dated to the beginning of the 20th century, it is reminiscent of the Mall of New York’s Central Park. But I would argue that space in Ponte de Lima is far more monumental and impressive. Initially known as the Avenue of October the Fifth, it is planned to provide much-needed shade to the oppressive heat of the summer and was inaugurated by the Prince of Portugal. The space reminds me of an ancient proverb: “Blessed are those who plant trees under whose shade they will never sit.”

“Blessed are those who plant trees under whose shade they will never sit”.

Lucky for us, our lodging for the day is located right on the avenue. Hotel Império do Norte is the largest hotel in town, and its riverfront location offers a beautiful view of Rio Lima. Although clean and modern, this hotel has the clinical aesthetics of a Soviet establishment. It reminded me of many Russian hotels I have stayed in. We were very happy with our room, which had air conditioning and a private balcony. After checking in, we wished Nicole a good evening and a happy birthday. While I wanted to invite her for dinner and perhaps buy her a drink or two, she looked too exhausted. Hopefully, we will have the opportunity to walk with her tomorrow morning.

After a quick shower and finishing my laundry, I was eager to explore the town while we still had the remaining sunlight. At this hour, the city takes on this golden hue that is difficult to describe. Ponte de Lima was quite small despite being a major stop along the Camino. Of course, the main historical landmark and symbol is its impressive medieval bridge. The bridge comprises fourteen arches and two sections, one from medieval times and the other from Roman times. I actually could not discern the difference, except for the difference between pointed and round arches. Nowadays, the bridge is pedestrianized and is one of the most scenic strolls in Portugal.

Today, very few remnants of the medieval fortification remain. The most prominent relic is Tower Cadeia Velha, which still dominates the riverfront. Like Rates, I was surprised by how quiet the town was during our visit. It was almost an eerie feeling to see so few visitors in such a beautiful historical city. One thing that I noticed right away was all the decorations on the street. We missed out on the Ponte de Lima’s largest festival, Feiras Novas, only by a few days. The festival mascot, Matilde, looks like a character from Popeye and is everywhere we look.

Could you tell which section of the bridge dated to the Roman time?

I definitely felt very fortunate to be able to enjoy such a beautiful sunset.

The historical center has plenty of cultural monuments to gawk at. The town’s main parish church and the nearby Church of Mercy are chief among them. But for casual visitors like myself, the best place to spend the precious hour is the riverfront promenade. Facing the rivers are quite a few interesting monuments, including the town’s pillory column and the massive bronze sculptural groups dedicated to rural life and Feiras Novas festival. While strolling around, I came across the Italian pilgrim we met earlier. Indeed, we did start to recognize more and more pilgrims on the trail.

A monumental sculptural group celebrating rural life of Ponte de Lima.

Along the riverbank, there is a curious installation of Roman soldiers. I figured that it must be some contemporary art installation. It was not until later in the night that I learned about its history. According to a common legend, in 139 B.C., the Roman armies arrived at the spot during a campaign against a local Celtic tribe. Exhausted and tired, soldiers within the army began a rumor that Rio Lima was River Lethe, one of the five rivers of the underworld. In Greco/Roman mythology, anyone who attempted to cross it would lose all memory. It did the trick, and the troop gathered the courage to cross the river. Today, a statue of a Roman general stands on the opposite bank of the river.

The contemporary installation of a Roman legion commemorates the legendary crossing of Rio Lima.

Near the Roman soldiers, I ran into a couple from New York. They started their Camino on bikes in Lisbon. They switched it to on-foot since Porto. This was our first time meeting pilgrims from back home, and it was somewhat of a weird feeling. It was clear that this couple was seasoned hikers. They belong to a local hiking club that did long-distance hikes in the city. They walked the whole Manhattan perimeter, making our practice walk down the Boardwalk a piece of cake.

At the restaurant cash register, I spotted an old photograph of the restaurant fully submerged in the water. According to the waiter, it was from the flood in 1987 that flooded the whole town and left it under ten feet of water. Looking around Ponte de Lima today, it was difficult to see any scare of this catastrophic event. The waiter pointed out a sign on one of the medieval towers marking the flood level. I wished I had known the information to look for it earlier.

The town was eerily quiet in the evening.

On Camino, I certainly was not too fussy about eating options. Based on a quick search on Google Maps, we settled on dinner at Restaurante Muralha, located one block inland from the riverfront. I ordered their Portuguese seafood rice, which was very satisfying. I can’t believe this was my first seafood dish since arriving in Portugal. I certainly appreciate the generous portions in Portuguese cooking. This meal reminded me of just how much I missed Portugal. When I finished the dish, we saw the Italian pilgrim again! It seemed like we just kept stalking each other by chance!

It was as if we were in a dystopic movie set.

After dinner, we spent fifteen minutes strolling the empty streets of the historical center. With all the lighting for the festival still intact, it was quite an eerie feeling to see such a festival city devoid of people. It was really strange to have such a splendid town all to ourselves. Walking down the main drag, I felt like we were either walking through a movie set or in a dream. After a full day of walking, it was a very serene way to end our day. I honestly wished that we could have a rest day here tomorrow. We are grateful to Camino for leading us here and helping us discover this amazing city.

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Camino Portugués: Day 4 - Tamel to Ponte de Lima

Camino Portugués: Day 5 - Ponte de Lima to Rubiães

Camino Portugués: Day 3 - Rates to Tamel