Copenhagen - Aren't You Just So Delightful?

People often say Danes and Finns are among Earth's most content and happy people. While I had no reason to doubt that, it seems like a pretentious slogan to be plastered across one's city. As much as I have read or watched about Denmark, it is difficult to pinpoint why Danes are so content compared to other wealthy Western industrial nations. What makes a nation happy, I wonder?

After an exhausting afternoon dash in Zurich, we were glad to be in Denmark. Hygge, the cozy character of Denmark, immediately came through at the airport. There was plenty of daylight and natural wood. The airport has a low ceiling but is not claustrophobic. There was softness and elegance that was restrained and refined. The best thing about our visit this round is their tourist pass, the Copenhagen Card. Given Scandivania is the most expensive part of the world, a single tourist card for all museums and all transportation is a real blessing. It is simply picking up the card at the visitor center, never worrying about buying any museum or bus ticket. For $25 a day, it was a breeze to traverse Copenhagen. It was such a breeze and a joy to experience all the museums and palaces on the fly. Even if you don't plan to buy the card, you should download their app because it has all the opening and admission information with an easily navigable map.

What is special about Copenhagen is the village quality of the town, partly because of the strictly regulated urban development. What immediately jumped out at me was the bright pastel color. Unlike other Scandinavian capitals, Copenhagen's color palette was bold but tasteful. It certainly will brighten the dreary Danish winter. The contrast with white snow would have been so lovely, especially with glowing candles at the windows. I came prepared that we would not get a single ray of sunlight while in Denmark. So, I was pleasantly surprised that we got pretty decent sunshine on half our days there.

Danish Easiness

What was also immediately apparent was the sense of beauty and elegance, which is almost universal. Unlike many other elegant cities we have visited, there are so few 'ugly and unsightly' businesses around the city. Even the most budget and unassuming cafe is cozy and elegant. I do wonder whether the trick was that the Danes forbid ugly products from being sold in their country. Shopping in Copenhagen is both an exhilarating and bitter experience. It was exhilarating because of all the beautiful designs around it but bitter because of all the sticker shock. While Brian and I did not deliberately go shopping, we couldn't help wandering in stores wherever we went.

Our favorite store in Copenhagen (and maybe the world) is Illums Bolighus. It is a one-stop emporium focusing exclusively on Scandinavian design, particularly Danish. While it was listed in Rick Steve's guidebook and many other online recommendations, it still surprised me how much we enjoyed the store. The sense of craft and modernist tradition was palpable. It was hard to describe the sense of joy. You could feel a sense of humanity and pride. A very simple ceramic piece made you question the limit of materials and artistic capabilities of generations of artisans.

Tourism in Copenhagen was well-developed but not overwhelming. Nyhavn, the old port, is undoubtedly the most touristy stretch of the city. Our hotel, Wakeup Copenhagen, was a quick 5-minute walk to Nyhavn. Oddly enough, there did not seem to be any dining and drinking establishments that warranted particular interest. Instead, it was about all the people. The open container policy of Denmark came alive in the area. We also happened to be there during the July jazz month. Music seems to fill the streets of many corners of this metropolis.

Nyhavn's charm is not simply the colorful architecture but historic vessels and all the people spilling the streets enjoying themselves. At the end of the Nyhavn was the promenade that fronted the modern Royal Playhouse. The promenade opened to the main harbor and overlooks the massive Opera House. One thing I will always remember was the British gay couple arguing and breaking up. I think we saw them one other time a few days later. It is funny, the kind of thing you will remember afterward sometimes.

Architectural Pilgrimage

The architecture of Copenhagen was very rich in texture. It was diverse in style but still unified. Even just strolling through the old town, you have an eclectic collection of Nation Romantic, Art Deco, Beaux-Arts, Renaissance Revival, Dutch Revival, and Mid-century Modern, to name a few. As the foremost pioneer of pedestrian streets, streets belong to people and secondarily to bikes. Partly due to the high tax on gasoline and car ownership, cars are few and far between. The city was quiet, and you never needed to talk loudly on the street. There was almost an eerie feeling at times. Even though Copenhagen does not have a sleek tram line or an extensive subway system, the city's human scale is absolutely walkable and very manageable. Even in a suburban part of the city, you still see local residents on the streets strolling and creating a sense of community.

What is quite unique about Copenhagen is the abundance of progressive architecture, not just modern architecture. While the Dutch and the Germans both have a strong streak of contemporary architecture, the Danes seem to be able to blend their contemporary architecture well into the landscape and historic setting. Before I set out on my trip, I made a Google Map of all the architecturally worthy buildings, from BIG's Mountain Dwelling to Utzon's Bagsværd Church. There is plenty to see, and I am ashamed to say I only got a couple of them into our itinerary.

VM House... still looking great after all these years.

Among the first I visited was Mountain Dwellings in the southern district of Ørestaden. Designed by Bjarke Ingels and Julien De Smedt. It is fascinating to see that this building, finished in 2008, launched the career of a global architecture superstar. More than any apartment building worldwide, Mountain Dwellings ranks among the most innovative. It fundamentally changes the relationship between urbanity and suburban lifestyle.

Mountain Dwelling by Bjarke Ingels & Julien de Smedt.

At the heart of the project was the terracing that contrasts playfully with the flat landscape of Denmark. However, the ingenuity of their vision was the underbelly of these apartments. The above-ground parking garage's reverse terracing was innovative and unheard of. Also near the Mountain Dwellings are VM House, Sky Bella, and 8 House. It is somewhat of an architectural wonderland but not a despotic universe like the ones in suburban Madrid.

The Royal Copenhagen

Copenhagen is also a royal city. The monarchy is an integral part of the Danish identity. Unlike many of their contemporaries, the Danish royalties did not flee the country in the wake of the Nazi invasion. To be close to the people is the key to a successful monarchy in modern society. They are essentially the cultural ambassador of these small, ethnically homogeneous countries. Unsurprisingly, the monarchy as an institution only survives in small nations (Bhutan, Netherlands, or Jordan) or island nations (Japan, Swaziland, or Great Britain).

Denmark's royal institution seems particularly low-key and down-to-earth. The Queen (or kings) will not abdicate and will assume the throne immediately upon the death of the previous without any ceremony whatsoever. They seem to take it as a real job rather than a position of privilege. Their residence in Copenhagen, Amalienborg Palace, was not much bigger than a wealthy urban mansion. Compared to royal palaces in Stockholm and London, The double symmetrical palace complex is at once residential and grand. It appears that all members of the Danish royal household are accomplished in their respective professional careers.

Royal Marble Church, a mini replica of Saint Peter’s dome in Rome.

There are plenty of royal sights in Copenhagen. Among them are the two iconic castles important to all Danish people. The first was the Rosenburg Palace, the Renaissance-style palace of King Christian IX, the warrior king who ushered in the Danish Empire's golden age. The palace, functioning as now a state museum, is a fascinating relic of how the king lived. It is not your typical neoclassical palace that you have seen a hundred times. Each room is intimate and richly decorated. Each room is filled with a somewhat unexpected treasure trove. What was particularly memorable was the spiraling staircase filled with coats of arms and dazzling porcelain room. No room is decorated the same, and it feels plentifully hygge.

Rosenborg Castle, the former palace of Denmark.

The castle's basement houses the Royal Treasury, containing the crown jewels and many fascinating items, such as a marble model ship and various decorative objects. This was one instance in which I was glad I had read my guidebook and Rick Steve's TV show. This is particularly the case with decorative arts. The coronation crown of King Christian IX is just one of those objects that you could spend an hour decoding. You are aware of all the symbolic meanings ahead of time. Brian and I also found the porcelain display to be particularly impressive.

The Around Pavilion in the Rosenborg Castle Gardens.

We were also very impressed by all the authentically dated furniture, such as the coronation throne and the king's private writing desk and letters. The park surrounding the Rosenburg Castle was just delightful. Aside from a beautiful rose garden, an unexpected highlight was the "Around Pavilion,” which was supposed to be Denmark's answer to London's Serpentine Gallery. The highly polished and yet rustic construction was delightful. Of course, like any great urban space, the beauty was to see how the public enjoyed it.

Christiansborg Palace, the official residence of the Queen of Denmark.

The particularly fun palace to visit is the Christiansborg Palace in the town center. It was the oldest of the royal palaces and remains the seat of the Danish government today. The palace, twice burned down and substantially rebuilt, houses all three branches of the central government, including the working office of Her Majesty the Queen. Being a working palace, the place suddenly takes on a different meaning, and it is no longer just a curated museum. We could see where the foreign heads of state dine and where the Queen meets with cabinet members. Interestingly, the palace was extremely accessible, much like the monarchy itself. While there is still a security check, its outer premise blended well with the surrounding urban fabric. The central tower is accessible during normal business hours and offers a commanding view of the city center.

The palace is well worth a tour, particularly with the abovementioned Copenhagen Card. The tour guide was excellent and was genuinely excited to communicate the modern understanding of constitutional monarchy. One thing that seems to be absent from the Danish royalty was the lack of pretension. For instance, there is no coronation ceremony or celebration. Instead, a successor assumes the crown a minute after the death of the king/queen and proclaims the death of his or her predecessor at the palace balcony. There will be no pageantry or elaborate banquet. Compared to many of their European counterparts, the openness of the royal properties endears themselves to the Danes.

A modern rendition of the Danish royal coat of arm.

Among the highlights of the palace tour was the massive banquet table made from salvaged wood from the ruin of the previous palace. Even though it is far from the most opulent and impressive palace in Europe, it is, in fact, the most pleasant palace tour we have ever taken. A highlight for us is a ballroom full of contemporary tapestries, collectively called Queen’s Tapestries. What's unique about these is the modern flair that reflects the Danish design. Manufactured in France, it is the gift given to the Queen from the Danish business community.

The tapestry documented the history of Denmark and the life of the Queen. Of course, the panels of the 19th and 20th centuries are the point of interest. Figures like Adolf Hitler and Winston Churchill were prominently featured. The funny thing is that it gives us a relatively short segment of history we know. It reminds me of how little we were all educated in the past. We picked up a book detailing the history and artistry of the tapestry. We also picked up a bottle of red wine made exclusively for the royal household; we thought it would be an appropriate gift for Brian's dad.

Freetown of Christiania

According to Rick Steves and numerous travel guides, the hippie commune of Christiania is a must-visit. Now, Brian and I were not interested in the hippie subculture, as I believe it pretty much causes the conservative backlash. The Freetown of Christiania was the squatting settlement of a former military barrack. It is a place where personal liberty is treasured. Of course, the use of marijuana became a draw for foreign visitors.

Fair or not, it is a place where democracy is in action. As much as I want to embrace the idea of a peaceful utopia, I found it oddly unsettling. For all the talk about freedom, there are plenty of regulations. You are not allowed to take photographs and must be 'respectful' of their ways of life. For a community to ban all advertisements, the idea of freedom of speech is quite twisted. Just like all other utopias, it inevitably becomes more ideological and inevitably political. The settlement is a political statement to the Danish government, and the distrust of the outsiders is only heightened.

Brian was visibly uncomfortable around Christiania. Being the law-abiding guy he is, the "free town" is seedily compared to the rest of Copenhagen. While plenty of artistic expressions abound in the settlement, it was far from a pleasant experience. We ended up walking along the beautiful rampart that formed the boundary of the settlement. The famous Church of Our Savior is not far from Christiania, with its spiraling bell tower and an external staircase. It is a popular tourist destination, although it is unnecessary for everyone. For those afraid of heights, it is a place of terror. Immediately after we reached the bottom of the staircase, Brian was scared.

Before our visit, I heard a podcast episode on social contracts in Denmark. A big part of the discussion is the rule of law. One of the most visible differences from New York, and even most of Western Europe, was the lack of jaywalking. It simply does not happen in Denmark, at least among the locals. While this may be inconvenient on the surface, it creates a less stressful environment for pedestrians, bikers, and motorists. The law-abiding Danes also make ticket checking unnecessary on buses and subways. During our entire stay in Copenhagen, we never got our tickets checked once on buses or the subway. This social trust left a great impression on us. Perhaps this is the very definition of a civilized country. A liberal democratic society does not mean anarchy; instead, it is a social contract with a shared goal based on mutual respect and care for the vulnerable.

A Playground For All

Copenhagen is not a grand city, but what she lacks in grandiosity is compensated by the embodiment of the democratic ideal. One of its greatest embodiments must be the Tivoli Garden just off the Copenhagen Central Station. It is a truly Danish institution synthesizing Danish hygge with iconic civic space. While it is considered a "must-see" in the guidebook, we would not have visited without the Copenhagen Card. Some might consider this whole park kitsch, but the crowd makes it enjoyable.

While we were not exactly sure about the composition of visitors to Tivoli by origin, there is no doubt this is a civic space designed for the Danes. One of the funniest things was the outdoor theater was Moulin Rouge in English. The roller coaster with a delightful concession stand is just steps away from the movie screen. We could not help ourselves in getting ice cream cones and cotton candy. Although all the rides are priced individually and are quite pricey, the joy of the Tivoli is the conviviality rather than one attraction.

Like any old-fashioned amusement park, many funky or even ridiculous decors exist. One noticeable carnival game was the shootout game. It was no ordinary shootout but a shootout to the mouths of a Chinese man cutout in the Qin dynasty outfit and hairdo. It now makes me think about what kind of racial stereotype was incorporated in the amusement parks that I frequented as a child in Taiwan. I am not happy to say that traveling around the world made you question your upbringing. Aside from the usual amusement park food stalls, plenty of gourmet restaurants exist. It has often been reported that many locals will come here just for a fancy meal, disregarding the high admission fee to the park. Of course, you must research to ensure you take advantage of all the free events in the park.

The elegant and functional Nørreport Railway & Metro Station. — The elegant and functional Nørreport Railway & Metro Station.

Even though our time in Copenhagen was relatively short, we certainly feel we got some good doses of fine living and an egalitarian ideal. It may be one of the most expensive cities in the world for a visit, but it will be unwise to skip it due to the high prices. Instead, you must research beforehand, and bargains are certainly out there. Our savior in terms of the meal was Dalle Valle Restaurant. Just across from Copenhagen University, this place certainly caters a lot to the student crowd. It is not gourmet but has plenty of a la carte and cocktail options. But what makes this place a draw is the buffet, which is priced at only 79 kroner ($9) for lunch. The food is decent, and the service is attentive to European standards. After paying for a $4 coffee at 7-11, Dalle Valle is a god, and we went there three times. We feel quite guilty about it.

Grundtvig's Church is a real-life LEGO model. — Grundtvig's Church is a real-life LEGO model.

Of course, there are plenty of free sights around the city. One example is Grundtvig's Church, located just a short bus ride from Central Copenhagen. The foremost example of modern brick expressionism, the church and its architectural ensemble will awe you. The Danish attention to detail and simplicity is vividly illustrated. If you look closely, it should not surprise you that this is the homeland of Lego!

Copenhagen is certainly a city that is worth coming back to once we make more money. We should try their famed Nordic cuisine and perhaps go shopping. Fortunately, we got to return to the city after our swing to the Netherlands and Belgium. We were planning our shopping in the morning when we came back. Overall, it is one of the most beautiful and relaxing cities we have ever been to, and I could only say that it is an excellent place for a long, mellow week or just a short 5-hour layover.

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