Culinary Journey to Hsinchu City
Known as the 'windy city’ of Taiwan, Hsinchu City in northern Taiwan is most often overlooked by domestic and international visitors. Not many know that Hsinchu is one of the oldest settlements in the island's northern part. The city has many claims of fame, including being the premier high-tech sector in Asia and having two top-notch universities in Taiwan. Historically, the city was also a major administrative center that once received the visit of then Crown Prince Hirohito. It is also the southern terminus of the first railroad in Taiwan under the Qing dynasty governor Liu Mingchuan (劉銘傳).
The food stalls at the Hsinchu City God Temple.
Architecturally, the city retains some historic monuments from both Japanese colonial rules and the Qing dynasty. Chief among them are the Baroque main train station, the East Gate, and the Japanese-era city hall. I can't claim that you could fill a full day of the itinerary, but I could confidently say that this is the best stopping point between Taipei and Taichung. NOTE: Unfortunately, the Taiwan High-Speed Rail (THSR) station for Hsinchu is located in the adjacent county. Fortunately, the Hsinchu Station for Taiwan Railroad Administration (TRA) will bring you to the city center.
Several years ago, the local Taiwanese press branded the city as the ‘gourmet desert’ (美食沙漠). As a native of Hsinchu, I am quite confounded by the label. Truthfully, I would not have lived in another place in Taiwan as far as food is concerned. I also realized that there aren't many English-language resources for food guides in my native city. Hsinchu is historically known for two delicacies: rice vermicelli (米粉) and pork meatball (貢丸). The city throws an annual festival in their honor, and you can even find Hsinchu-branded vermicelli in many Asian supermarkets here in the United States. Ironically, given how ubiquitous these specialties are, I had no favorite stall I could send you. But the City Deity Temple (城隍廟) could be the best place to sample what Hsinchu offers.
Hsinchu Railway Station from the Japanese colonial time.
After looking through the 'ranking' on Tripadvisor, I am more than convinced that I should share my insights on some perennial local favorites worthy of a visit. Not that Din Tai Fung or the Wang Steak is not an excellent establishment, they are not of local flavors. I want to put together my own personal list of recommendations. Below are some of the places I miss the most:
Taiwanese "tempura" is nothing like Japanese tempura with fluffy batter. It is a variation of Satsuma age in Japan. The deep-fried fish paste dumpling is simmered in pork broth and dressed with a special sweet and savory sauce. There are very few food items that are more delicious in cold winter. It may be pricey at $60 NTW ($2 USD), but their popularity is well-deserved.
Ya Zhen Hao Sticky Soup (雅珍號ㄍㄜㄍㄜ羹)
Hours: Daily 9:30 am. - 8:30 pm.
Address: 新竹市北區中山路75號
Situated within the hawker center surrounding the City Deity Temple (城隍廟), this tiny 5-seater eatery is small in size but packs with unique flavors. Like many food stalls around Taiwan, the menu is succinct but solid. For foreigners, simply pointing to the food items will overcome the language barrier. The claim of fame here is the starchy soup called Geng. The thick soup is filled with calamari, fish dumplings, and chunks of fried boneless pork ribs. It is likely the texture combination that foreigners have never tried before.
Also on offer is Bawan (肉圓), a meat dumpling wrapped with rice flour. The chewy rice wrapping is steamed and then deep-fried to provide a crispy yet gelatinous texture. I know it sounds strange, but that is exactly why you must try it. The filling inside is pork with scallion and red-colored fermented yeast, a combination particular to Hsinchu. Then, the bawan is topped with a general serving of minced garlic and sweet and spicy sauce. I am confident that this is the one dish I miss the most and one of the most unique in the nation.
Duan Chun Zhen Beef Noodle Soup (段純貞牛肉麵)
Hours: Tuesday - Sunday 11:30 am - 2:00 pm & 5:50 pm - 8:30 pm.
Address: 新竹市東區建功一路135號
Few dishes could represent Taiwan and a bowl of beef noodle soup. Originating from the Sichuan region of China, the dish was introduced by Nationalist veteran military officers after their defeat in the Chinese Civil War. The dish has been gradually refined to become a Taiwanese specialty in its own right. Ironically, among many of Taiwan's older generations, beef was shunned as a source of protein, given the importance of cattle in the former agricultural society.
In Hsinchu, Duan Chun Zhen has become the most prominent place to slurp the famous noodles. The restaurant is known for its intense broth, spice, and generous slices of beef. Don't be surprised to wait in a long line during busy times. Luckily, they have opened more restaurants in other cities, including the newest outlet in Cupertino, California.
When you think of the duck Chinese cousin, you will sink off with the Peking duck or the Cantonese roast duck. In Taiwan, we often prize a simpler flavor and honesty to the main ingredient. This duck meat joint offers fried or noodle soup with braised duck meat. The intense flavor of the duck and the broth is memorable. Duck is often such a fatty protein, but you will be surprised by how refreshed you feel after dining at this place. The dishes themselves are so basic and yet soulful. In some ways, it is what Taiwanese cuisine is all about.
Tucked around the corner from the main thoroughfare in front of the train station, a tiny jerky shop was my favorite growing up. Compared to American-style jerky, the Chinese/Taiwanese style is far more tender and sweeter. Aside from beef and pork jerky, they also offer various flavors of Rousong (dried shredded pork). Because everything is handmade in small batches, their products are preservative-free and fresh! They might be the best snack for the road!
The famous braised meat and tofu at Mei Nai Si Bakery.
Adjacent to Li Li Hao Jerky, the famed old-timed bakery and food store, Mei Nai Si is a famous old-school bakery offering many western-inspired Taiwanese baked goods, such as taro bread and pineapple bun. However, the claim of fame for this venerated shop is the section dedicated to braised items (滷味) such as tofu, meat, and seaweed rolls. My grandparents always bought a whole carton of their braised items during major holidays. They are among the most delicious savory appetizers for any meal.
Zhu Le Shi Tang Taiwanese Restaurant (竹樂食堂)
Hours: Daily 11:30 am. - 2:00 pm. & 5:30 pm. – 9:00 pm.
Address: 新竹市北區西大路690號
This classic Taiwanese joint may appear run-down, but sometimes, in places like this, you taste the authentic Taiwanese fare. My family often comes here to celebrate my grandparents' birthday. What it lacks in interior design is made up of budget-friendly fresh seafood. Like many old-school Taiwanese restaurants, they are best for families or a large group of friends. There is no menu, and the owners guide you through the food options in front of the case of today's catch. Some of the most well-regarded dishes include oyster omelet, roasted spare ribs, and deep-fried smelt fish. Part of the charm is to soak up the conviviality of a traditional eatery.
Tou Kai Japanese Style Cuisine (東街日式料理)
Hours: Daily 11:00 am. - 2:00 pm. & 5:00 pm. - 10:00 pm.
Address: 新竹市東區民生路286號
Due to our Japanese colonial history, Taiwan has incorporated many aspects of Japanese culture into our own. Of course, food is a big part of that cultural legacy. Because of that, it is very commonplace to see sashimi in a typical Taiwanese banquet. Throughout the decades, Taiwan has developed its own subset of Japanese food tradition that is somewhat distinct from mainland Japan. The difference could be subtle, but it tends to come in a more generous serving and fusion dishes such as scallop croquette and stone crab curry. Luckily for foreign visitors, Dong Jie's success comes with many branches across northern Taiwan.
Douhua, or tofu custard, is a silky Chinese dessert often dressed in simple brown sugar syrup. This venerable shop takes douhua to a whole new level. Don't let its shabby interior and faded wall menu deter you. From the holy trinity of chocolate, whole milk, and egg custard flavors are the marquee combination to die for. With over a dozen flavors and numerous mix-ins available, there are countless combinations to try out. Perhaps the 'douhua bar' will come to the United States one day.
Not that you should not have bubble tea in Hsinchu, but you should do yourself a favor by trying out a unique and traditional drink from a venerable family tea shop. Winter melon may not sound like the most sensible ingredient for a sweet tea, but this is exactly why you would be surprised just how refreshing they are in the scorching heat of Taiwanese summer. It is difficult to describe the taste because it is not particularly herbaceous and 'tea-like.'’ This fragrant drink has two basic ingredients: winter melon and sugar. The sliced melon is cooked down and mashed through a fine mesh. Once you get addicted, the crystalized tea block is available to make your own brew at home.
Arguably the least attractive shop in Hsinchu, this humble storefront is renowned for its traditional popsicles. Founded by a retired Air Force veteran, the flavor and recipe came from the Air Force commissary of the 1960s. At 35 cents a pop, it is the most affordable after-meal treat around town. Colloquially called the “Air Force popsicles,” the flavor selection is decidedly Taiwanese and seemingly transports you back in time. The crowd's favorite flavors include taro, saladitos, passion fruit, and red bean. With only eight flavors, each ice pop is made with great care and pride. Why 814, you might ask? August 14th is Air Force Day in Taiwan.
