Dahshur & Memphis - Capital of Ancient Egypt

After an exhausting morning in Saqqara, we were finally ready to move on. Saqarra was only the first of three stops on our private day tour. Because Egyptians typically had lunch in the mid-afternoon, we decided to defer our lunch break until after the guided tour ended. Our next destination was Dahshur Necropolis, another place that played an important role in the evolution of pyramid construction. Dahshur is among the important historical sites of the Old Kingdom of Egypt. Along with Saqqara and Giza, Dahshur and the nearby ancient city of Memphis are inscribed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Thirty minutes south of Saqqara, Dahsur is another quaint oasis town. As expected, there are plenty of police checkpoints along the way. The ticket booth is in a nondescript roadside building at the edge of the oasis town. Considering Dahsur Necropolis’s international profile, the diminutive ticket office looks more like a bus ticket counter in rural Mongolia. I could already tell we shouldn’t expect any great interpretative center or infrastructure here. It never ceases to amaze me just how underdeveloped the tourism infrastructure is in Egypt. I almost wish the government would allow permits for a luxury hotel to pay for the upgrade. Who wouldn’t want to pay for a pyramid view?

Dhshur's conservation lab was fortified after the 2011 revolution.

Just beyond the ticket booth, we saw a small compound on the right side of the road. According to our guide, Adel, this was the conservation lab for the park. Adel worked here for a few years before starting his tour company. I immediately spotted the walls and the four watch towers guarding the perimeter. I asked Adel whether security was an issue here. The site was looted in the chaos of the Egyptian Revolution of 2011. I was determined to find out what Egyptians thought of revolutions a decade onward.

Bent Pyramid of Sneferu

Although Djoser’s stepped pyramid is often called a “pyramid,” it is technically a misnomer. To be precise, a pyramid must be composed of triangular surfaces and concierge to a singular point at the top. The stepped pyramid in Saqarra is technically a series of mastabas stacked on top of one another. There is little doubt that it led to the construction of the pyramids we know and love today. Dahshur’s Bent Pyramid stands as an important transitional point where the true pyramid first came to be.

Bent Pyramid is truly special in the development of pyramid building.

As its name suggests, Bend Pyramid is characterized by its unique silhouette, where the angle of its profile changes midway up the pyramid. Its curious shape seemed odd and somewhat arbitrary. It was as if the builders had changed their minds halfway through the project. This impressive pyramid was commissioned by Pharaoh Sneferu in 2,600 B.C.E. He was widely regarded as the most prolific builder of ancient Egypt. While most pharaohs only managed to build one pyramid in their lifetime, Sneferu was able to build three massive pyramids during his long reign.

The Bend Pyramid was the second pyramid Sneferu built. The first pyramid he built was called the Meidum Pyramid. That pyramid was possibly started by Sneferu’s predecessor, Huni, and was essentially a stepped pyramid like the one in Saqqara. However, the builders filled the ‘void’ between the platforms with limestone casing stones. In other words, the Medium Pyramid was technically the world’s first-ever “true” pyramid. However, the pyramid encountered significant problems. Its exterior casings collapsed, leaving only the core stepped pyramid underneath standing. Many archaeologists argue the pyramid was never completed due to underlying structural deficiency.

It was apparent that Sneferu liked the pure pyramid shape as he started a second pyramid, trying to achieve the same smooth-faced pyramid with a modified structural technique. He started the pyramid with a 54-degree inclination, making it the steepest pyramid of ancient Egypt. Halfway up, the builders realized that the steep incline would make the overall structure too tall and difficult to construct. However, the main problem was cracking developed on the ceiling of the burial chamber. The structure issue at the Bend Pyramid could be summarized in the angle of repose, at which the material can be piled without slumping. The angle of repose for Egyptian limestone is 43 degrees, the exact slope of the upper portion of Bend Pyramid.

The casing stones were surprisingly intact.

For a while, some people argued that the angle change was due to Sneferu’s desire to speed up the construction. By adjusting to a shallower profile, the builders could save a lot of materials and time. While that may seem like a compelling reason, most archaeologists believe it was nonsense, as Sneferu started another pyramid before finishing Bent Pyramid. When completed, Bend Pyramid stood at the tallest structure in the world at an equivalence of thirty-four stories. It is, without a doubt, the most distinct pyramid ever built.

One thing that immediately jumped out to us about Bend Pyramid was how much of the casing limestone it still retains. Considering its structural difficulty, it seemed contradictory that this pyramid had the complete set of original limestone casings. There are two general theories about their remarkable preservation. Experts believe that the casing stone here is more roughly worked, meaning it has larger expansion joints between them to allow more flexible movement and settlement over the centuries. However, that doesn’t fully explain why the upper section lost most of its casing. In addition, the faces of this pyramid are slightly concaved, making them less likely to tumble down.

For me, the obvious explanation is how the steep slope made plundering casing stones more challenging. Not only was it more difficult to work on such a steep surface, but the slope also meant that the limestone was more vertically stacked; therefore, it was more difficult to remove. The easiest way to remove these casing stones was apparently from the corners. The preservation team had to put in timber piles at the corners to prevent the progressive collapse of the casing. Even though the two angles only differed by eleven degrees, the steepness of the pyramid sides felt very overwhelming up close.

The Black Pyramid is visible in the distance.

After decades of restoration, the interior of Bend Pyramid finally opened to visitors in 2019. The inside of the pyramid is unique in that it has two unconnected sets of internal access and burial chambers. As one of the earliest pyramids, the burial chambers were below ground, just like a traditional mastaba. The interior layouts are one of the most complicated in Egypt. The archaeological investigation shows that the core of this pyramid was a stepped pyramid. It demonstrated that the builders experimented with the construction technique from the start. Bend Pyramid is a unique historical fact of the history of pyramid building.

Since our backs still aced after climbing inside the Pyramid of Unas in Saqqara, we opted not to get inside Bend Pyramid. But to ensure we wouldn’t regret our decision, I asked several visitors who emerged from the pyramid how different it was from other pyramids. The consensus was that the climb was more strenuous but did not look all that different. That said, I still regret not taking the plunge. After all, who knows when we will visit Bend Pyramid next time?

We could spot another pyramid from the base of Bend Pyramid. Commonly referred to as the Black Pyramid, the Pyramid of Amenemhat III is another early pyramid that suffered catastrophic failures. The pyramid core was made of mud bricks, not limestone. As a result, the structure quickly deteriorated once the limestone casing was removed. Personally, what intrigued me the most about the Black Pyramid was its pyramidion, the pyramid capstone. Of all the surviving Egyptian pyramids, the one from the Black Pyramid is considered the most beautiful. The black granite piece now finds its home in the grand atrium of the Egyptian Museum in downtown Cairo.

The Red Pyramid of Sneferu

To continue the historical journey of pyramid building, we took a very short drive to the nearby Red Pyramid. It is the largest pyramid of Dahshur Necropolis and Egypt’s first true pyramid. Also commissioned by Sneferu, archaeologists believed it was commissioned before the completion of the Bend Pyramid. Sneferu was concerned about the structural issues with the Bend Pyramid and ordered a brand new one built using the shallower 43-degree slope. This would be a very conservative project since he already tested this shallow angle. In fact, later pyramids, such as those in Giza, reverted to steeper slopes as they perfected the construction technique.

View of the Red Pyramid from Bent Pyramid.

As far as experts could tell, the builders of the Red Pyramid finally let go of the legacy of the stepped pyramid. The stones were laid horizontally, which became standard for all subsequent pyramids. After visiting a stepped and bent pyramid, I couldn’t help feeling the Red Pyramid was somewhat anticlimactic. Imperfections make a place more interesting sometimes. It just looks like a typical pyramid but shallower and has very little limestone casing. The name Red Pyramid was derived by the reddish hue of the limestone block. It would not be named as such if most of the outer casing had survived.

But because this was the first true pyramid, we decided to venture inside. The entrance of the pyramid is located quite high up above the ground. It was already quite a workout to climb up the entrance. From the entry platform, we had a wonderful view of the desert plain, including the monuments of Saqqara Necropolis on the horizon.

The size of the parking lot indicates the “‘popularity” of the Red Pyramid.

This is the first and only pyramid with neither underground passage nor subterranean burial chambers. The descent was steep and just as claustrophobic as the Pyramid of Unas. Luckily, we could take our time making the descent. Even for novices like ourselves, the advancement of pyramid building since the of Unas. At the bottom of the passageway is the first of two identical antechambers. Each has an eleven-tiered corbeled ceiling, which is stunning. Before the invention of arches, corbel ceiling is the only way to create large structural spans. Corbel tends to work best with the heavy load above; the heavy weight of the pyramid was ideal.

The Red Pyramid was the first true pyramid in the world.

At more than forty feet high, the antechambers are magnificent. It was surprising that such a magnificent space had no decorative elements. Considering how much effort Sneferu put into the construction, it seemed counterintuitive and inconceivable that he put little effort into interior embellishment. Archaeologists did not find a single trace of art or inscription. While it is that the chambers used to have wall coverings, there is no trace of any attachment mechanism on these walls. We could only imagine the splendors of all the treasures once deposited here.

Given the magnificent size of these two rooms, it was easy to assume these were the burial chambers for the pharaoh. But the burial vault was hidden near the top of the second antechamber. Many speculate the antechambers acted like decoys for the actual inner sanctum. Without enough light, it was all too easy to neglect the passage. The significant elevational changes also made it difficult for grave robbers to remove the treasure from the burial chamber. Unfortunately, these protective measures did not deter the looters, as all contents were emptied before the Egyptologists’ arrival.

Interestingly, the tomb raiders enlarged the “secret passageway” by removing the stone blocks on the floor to move out the treasure. The loot must be so valuable to make such a herculean effort worthwhile. However, that was nothing compared to what they did to the burial chamber. The entire floor was torn apart; they excavated approximately two stories down as if they were sure treasures were buried undeath. This puzzled many archaeologists, as the looters did not disturb the walls or the corbelled ceilings. Based on all other surviving Egyptian pyramids discovered, there has never been any indication that the pharaoh buried treasures under the floor. One possible explanation may be the looters need to build a ramp to slide the massive treasures down to the much lower antechambers. However, this theory is also doubtful as the archaeologists found no debris there.

Ironically, because Seneferu built at least three massive pyramids, no one was sure exactly which pyramid he chose to be buried. No stone sarcophagus was ever found inside either of the three pyramids. Given that Red Pyramid was the most advanced pyramid of the three, most agree he was probably buried here. As most pyramids were devoided of content when rediscovered in the modern time, the mummies' fate is unknown. It is more than likely that Sneferu’s mummy was taken or destroyed by the grave robbers. However, it is also possible that the priests gathered all the royal mummies into a secret cache for safekeeping during Egypt’s turbulent era. Let’s hope Sneferu could still turn up one day.

As perfect of a pyramid as this is, it is a little “boring.”

Like other pyramids, the Red Pyramid's interior was hot and humid. It was not a particularly relaxing experience that one would imagine. Adel told us that many foreigners would arrange after-hours private sessions to meditate inside the pyramid. Recently, he arranged for an Indian woman for a private mediation visit inside the Great Pyramid of Giza. The hour-long session cost $2,000 just for the fees paid to the government. For us, nothing is calming or transcendental about these burial chambers. All we wanted was to exit as soon as possible. I would much prefer the views of the pyramid from the outside.

Speaking of peace and tranquility, the one thing that jumped out to us about Dahshur was the absence of vendors and touts. Because Dahshur was closed to the public until relatively recently, it did not see too many visitors. This makes the overall experience calming, even somewhat eerie. I could honestly say pairing Dhshur with Saqqara is the best way to understand the history of pyramid building.

Ancient City of Memphis

After Dahshur, we were ready for Memphis, the capital of ancient Egypt. Before visiting Egypt, I vaguely remembered that Memphis, Tenessee, was named after an Egyptian place. Still, I didn’t realize Memphis was the administrative and religious capital of the Early Dynastic Period and the Old Kingdoms. Even after the court moved to Thebes, Upper Egypt, during the Middle Kingdom, Memphis remained the dominant center of commerce and culture for centuries. Alexander the Great famously visited Memphis to pay respect to Egypt’s ancient heritage. After his death, his trusted generally actually brought his body to Memphis for embalming before burial in Alexandria.

After our visit to Serapium, I am excited to see any icon of the Apis bull.

Because ancient Egyptians had a knack for monumental construction, I was very excited to check out their splendid capital. However, Adel quickly tempered my high expectations. Despite its historical significance and past splendor, Memphis today looks just like any typical Egyptian village. The streets are lined with modern low-rise concrete buildings and busy traffic, and there are little clues to the ancient past. After the arrival of the Romans, the capital and many important cult worship sites were transferred to Alexandria, which is far better connected to Rome. After the rise of Christianity, Memphis was all but abandoned in the next few centuries.

Compared to Saqqara and Dahshur, the admission to Memphis Open Air Museum was surprisingly steep.

As we drove through the village, I did my best to see whether I could find any trace of the ancient city. At the edge of the village, we started to see some fenced-off areas with half-excavated ruins. Soon enough, we arrived at the Open Air Museum of Memphis. With so little original architecture surviving, the government gathered all the bits and pieces of archaeological fragments into an open-air park. Situated by a busy street, the park has no historical ambiance befitting an ancient capital. From the entrance signage to the state of the parking lot, the place was hardly impressive.

Immediately next to the main entrance is a two-story building housing the museum's marquee exhibit: Colossus of Rameses II. At nearly thirty-five feet in length, this is one of a pair of statues of Rameses II that once stood guard the Great Temple of Ptah. The statue was first uncovered by Italian archaeologist Giovanni Caviglia in 1820. The statue was laid face down in a pound, which inadvertently saved the statue from erosion. The front of the statue is wonderfully preserved except for the broken feet and a slightly damaged right arm. The fine craftsmanship was stunning, especially considering its age and its rediscovery.

Because of the statue's condition, it is now displayed on its back. A small concrete structure is purpose-built around the statue, creating a convenient viewing gallery from the upper level. It gave us a different perspective. Rameses II, or Rameses the Great, was one of the most famous rulers in Egypt and is said to have very distinct facial features. I haven’t learned enough about pharaohs to recognize them, but I would say he is more distinct-looking than the feminine features of Akhenaten. As usual, the best way to identify a pharaoh would be the cartouches, the pharaoh’s coat of arms. In addition to a cartouch inscribed on his arm, he holds his cartouch-inscribed seal in both hands.

Egypt’s sovereignty was subordinate to colonial rules in the early 19th century. Great archaeological finds like this were destined for museums in Europe or the United States. Muhammad Ali of Egypt offered the colossus first to an Italian duke and then British Museum. However, both parties turned down the after assessing the cost of transporting the Colossus to Europe. Interestingly, Giovanni Caviglia found another intact colossus, which had stood at the square outside Cairo’s main station until very recently. It is now in the permanent home at the grand atrium of the Great Egyptian Museum as its star attraction.

Detail of the sarcophagus lid. The winged goddess Isis guards the way. At the very top the eyes of the god Horus keep watch.

Outside the little pavilion, the museum’s items are scattered around the park. It looks more like an outdoor warehouse than a well-curated collection. The rows of vendors selling tacky souvenirs did not help. It certainly is not what I picture of an ancient capital. Although Adel did his best to contextualize the items on display, there is still a disconnect between the object and the location. I felt that they transported them to the Egyptian Museum in Cairo or created a proper museum for Memphis. I would love to see a model of ancient Memphis to help us visualize where the artifacts came from.

Without a doubt, the most intriguing item in the park is the Spinx. Carved out of solid alabaster, this sphinx once guarded the Temple of Ptah. Discovered in 1912 by a team of British and American archaeologists, the sphinx bears no inscription, so Egyptologists could only infer which pharaoh had commissioned it based on its facial features. It may be a fraction of the size of the Great Sphinx of Giza, but this sphinx is the largest work of Egyptian alabaster ever discovered. And compared to its cousin in Giza, this sphinx is far cuter and more realistic in proportions. The cuddly pows were especially adorable, reminding me of our beloved pet, Prue.

Because Memphis is one of the oldest city in the world, many artifacts here were more than five thousand years old. It was a shame that the excavation thus far has not yielded more splendid artifacts like the sphinx or the colossus of Rameses the Great. Experts estimate the population of Memphis in its heyday was just over 30,000. That made it the largest metropolis in the world at that time! I had difficulty comprehending how so few remnants of the metropolis were left. It was particularly puzzling since there was no recorded sacking of the city as far as I read.

The back corner of the park was littered with numerous architectural fragments.

As much as I enjoyed all the statues lining the main area of the open-air museum, I preferred the less-visited section toward the back. That area is littered with architectural fragments, such as column capitals, drums, and ancient drain pipes. Considering how disappointing Memphis was, this little junkyard of ancient artifacts seems like quite a fitting spot to end our hectic day of whirlwind visit through Saqaara, Dashur, and Memphis. Now, I am ready for a few hours by the hotel pool back in Cairo.

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Dahshur & Memphis - Capital of Ancient Egypt

Bent Pyramid of Sneferu

The Red Pyramid of Sneferu

Ancient City of Memphis

The Mess of The Egyptian Museum

Did You Say Serapeum?