Destination Profile - Antigua & Barbuda

It has been over a year since I did my last destination profile. I like to focus on smaller or less-traveled destinations for this series, and Antigua and Barbuda fit the bill. Even though not many Americans have even heard of the country, Americans account for over half of all international arrivals. When speaking to many in the tourism trade, they describe the difference between American and British tourists. While Americans often came on cruise ships and on the way to somewhere else, the Brits typically stayed for a week or more. This is probably a reflection of the geographic proximity and how Americans vacation. But no matter how long your visit is, you will be surprised by just how many options Antigua has to offer. So, I want to share some of my favorites from this recent trip to Antigua and Barbuda.

Favorite Beach: Ffryes Beach

Even if you were just making a cruise stop in Antigua, the locals are keen to remind you that there are supposedly more than 365 beaches on the island. Then they typically follow up by saying, “There is one beach for every day of the year”! Given just how often the islanders recite such slogans, I am curious whether somebody compiles a full list of public beaches online to back up the popular slogan. Regardless of whether such a claim is true, finding a beach that is to your liking should not require much effort. On the second to last day of my trip, I had the chance to sample a dozen beaches along the south coast. While I am not exactly a beach connoisseur, I want to share my favorite beach.

Ffryes Beach just screams “Caribbean” without being “too perfect”.

Of course, everyone has their own set of criteria. For me, it comes down to the quality of white sands, the right amount of amenities, and the typical “tropical features.” Ffryes Beach fits all the bill. The beach is at the medium point between the rough waves of the Atlantic and the gentle water of the Caribbean. Two resorts on the hill bookend the beach, yet it was not crowded. This stretch of sand has everything you could wish for lounge chair rentals, driftwood, beautiful resorts, and palm trees. Ffryes may not have the softest sand or be the most remote beach, but it is the beach I would be rushing to on my next visit to Antigua.

Favorite Landmark: VC Bird Monument

Located at the intersection of All Saints Street and Valley Road in Saint John’s, the VC Bird Monument is memorable. Named after the first prime minister of the independent Antigua and Barbuda, Vere Cornwall Bird, the scale and vibrancy of this enormous bust are both odd and awe-inspiring. Often dubbed the founding father of Antigua, he was the leader of the labor union that brought about the end of British colonial rule. A skilled politician, Bird once opposed independence due to the concern for potential political upheavals. Eventually, Bird successfully negotiated a gradual road to autonomy from the United Kingdom, first as an associated state and then as an independent state with a constitutional monarchy.

Bird’s political ambition is not limited to Antigua and Barbuda. He was also a champion of the short-lived West Indies Federation. In his vision, this confederation of Caribbean Islands under British rule could become a new geopolitical “powerhouse” in the region. However, various islands’ internal nationalism and the weakness of the federal powers led to its dissolution four years later in 1962. Bird worked hard to cobble together a slim-down version of the federation to no avail. Like other towering political figures like Mahatma Gandhi and Kim Il-sung, Bird created a political dynasty that cast a long shadow on Antiguan politics. The political party he founded, the Antigua and Barbuda Labour Party (ABLP), ruled the country almost continuously since the 1950s.

While I believe there is genuine respect for VC Bird among Anitguans, I can’t help pondering just how popular his family dynasty is in contemporary society. Based on my casual conversations with many locals, most have a lot to complain about the corruption and nepotism of the ruling party. The reputation of the Bird family is inevitably tied to the day's politics. Perhaps this is why the little plaza before the monument is always locked to prevent vandalism. It was unfortunately.

Could you spot the Antigua Balck Pineapple?

Designed by Cuban artist Andres Gonzalez, the monument was erected in 2002. The statue is 33 feet tall and reflects Bird’s 7-foot stature and larger-than-life role in Antigua. At the risk of being disrespectful, the facial expression and vibrancy of the statue remind me of a fully rendered character in The Simpsons. Is it possible this is why I find this landmark so visually fascinating? Also, if you look closely, you could even spot two sculptures of Antiguan balck pineapple on the fence!

Favorite Non-Attraction: Antigua Donkey Sanctuary

Among all the tourist attractions on the island, Antigua Donkey Sanctuary stood out as either dull or fascinating, depending on your perspective. Located on the island's eastern side, this sanctuary could be reached after a short drive on a gravel road. I can’t tell you what prompted me to visit a donkey sanctuary in the Caribbean; it did not seem like the kind of “attraction” I would visit on vacation. Don’t get me wrong, I love animals and found donkeys particularly adorable. But this was the first time I heard of a dedicated sanctuary for donkeys.

Unbeknown to most of us, donkeys played a big role in Antigua’s development. They were a lifetime of the country’s sugar plantations before the Industrial Revolution. Donkeys were introduced to the Caribbean by British colonizers. They were indispensable for the economy of the British Caribbean. Antiguans also kept them as farm animals for manual labor. But with modern transport's arrival and the sugar industry's demise, donkeys gradually lost status. For today’s Antiguans, donkeys symbolize a bygone era; many locals still reminisce about when their families owned a couple of donkeys.

These donkeys are definitely very docile with humans.

Unsurprisingly, not many people nowadays keep donkeys around their homes. Many donkeys were abandoned. Like goats, donkeys could pretty much eat everything in the field and seriously damage local crops. Wandering donkeys were chased by farmers and unruly children who hoped to ride them to school. The Antigua and Barbuda Humane Society set up a donkey sanctuary to take care of stray donkeys with serious medical conditions. Over the years, the sanctuary is said to have grown to be the home to 150 donkeys.

When I arrived at the front gate, I was disappointed to see it was locked. According to the signs outside, visitors are instructed to honk the horn to be let in. Once inside, a lovely volunteer greeted me and gave me a brush for the donkeys. I spotted only about two dozen donkeys during my visit inside the special fenced area. While I am far from an expert in this area, the staff at the sanctuary did seem to take great care of the animals. All the donkeys were well-fed, and the pen areas were neat and clean. But I was the only visitor then; it felt odd to be wandering around alone brushing these donkeys. It was almost creepy, seriously!

Biography of some resident donkeys up that are up for symbolic sponsorship.

After returning the brush to the volunteer, I had a chance to chat with her about the operational side of the sanctuary. Given that the place is run on donations only, the volunteers were surprisingly relaxed with soliciting donations because of the number of visitors daily. Shockingly, the girl told me they receive about a dozen tourists daily during the high season and only one or two during the low season. According to the signage, caring for a single donkey takes about $300 a year, so the humane society must rely on a robust online fundraising apparatus to sustain this endeavor.

Like your local animal shelter, there is a wall of pictures for you to symbolically “adopt” a donkey. For $30, visitors could sponsor a donkey for a year. Although I am not a sucker for this kind of fundraising effort, I did not hesitate to drop $20 USD into their donation box. Although I came expecting a tourist trap, I came away impressed and grateful for the work the Humane Society is doing. However, I can’t say Antigua Donkey Sanctuary is a must-visit for most foreign travelers. But a stop here is worthwhile for anyone spending more than three days on the island.

Favorite Activity: Sunday Party of Shirley Heights

Besides the slogan about 365 beaches, the other worst-kept secret is the Sunday sunset party at Shirley Heights. Now, Shirley Heights is the most famous spot in the country for its amazing view of Nelson Dockyard and English Harbour. Twice a week, the restaurant at Shirley Height Lookouts hosts a sunset barbeque party for visitors and locals alike. In particular, their party on Sunday is particularly popular and lively. Since I was staying at nearby English Harbour on this trip, checking out the Sunday party was a no-brainer. Well, I am glad I did.

The steel band performance is “instrumental” in setting the atmosphere of the party.

The $10 USD admission does not include a drink or food voucher, but the lively steel band ensemble is worth it. Considering the high cost of living in Antigua, the entrance fee is not as steep as it initially seems. The crowd at the party was composed of foreign tourists, but there was still a decent number of locals (based on the conversations I overheard). The steel band was amazing, and I must acknowledge that I did not know steel drums originated from the Caribbean. Acknowledging the demographic of the attendees, they played popular show tunes from The Sound of Music and the Phantom of Opera!

Aside from the sunset view and the music, another draw is the booze and barbeque. I was honestly expecting the prices to be outrageous. But it was not any more expensive than a typical roadside shack around the island. The menu ranges from simple burgers to surf and turf platters. Because the line for purchasing meal tickets was so long, an employee sold a ticket “on the side.” It costs only $10 USD for my plate of jerk chicken. Ironically, this was the cheapest plate of food I had while in Antigua. It was cheaper than a KFC two-piece combo meal in Saint John’s. Perhaps this is why so many people at the party shelled out the cash for a full lobster meal.

An early evening barbeque picnic with an epic view.

After sunset, there was a mood shift as libations set in. Things got a little rowdy as people started dancing with a couple of drinks. While it was a fun and energetic night, I felt a little weird about being here alone. I wished Brian was there with me, or I am more of a dancer. Even so, it was nevertheless a wonderful experience.

Favorite Viewpoint: Fort Barrington

Speaking of Shirley Heights, there is no doubt it is the most well-known viewpoint in the entire country. Among cruise ship passengers, Nelson Dockyards and Shirley Heights are the most popular day trips. I can’t dispute the beauty of the spot. After all, I visited the spot four times in five days, and there is something magical about that place. But because Shirley Heights is so famous among visitors, I felt I had already been there before my plane touched down.

While short, the hike up to Fort Barrington was quite a thrill.

For the best viewpoint, my favorite is Fort Barrington. Located at the southern end of the mouth of Saint John’s Harbor, this fortress occupies the summit of a conical hill, and it is one of the most coveted spots on the island for the British military. From the top, we could see Saint John’s, the ocean, beautiful coves, and white sand beaches. Unsurprisingly, the British Navy used this as a signaling station. But unlike Shirley Heights, Fort Barrington has a truly panoramic view. But I enjoy this viewpoint more because of the dirt trail that leads up to it. Despite being a national park, no infrastructure exists, including a paved trail. The trail was borderline dangerous, and please don’t hike it in flip-flops as I did. But I can assure you that this short hike would be worth it.

Favorite Food Experience: Gina's Cook Shop

Before this recent trip, I did not have high expectations about the food of the Caribbean. Nearly my whole knowledge about the cuisine of this region was our honeymoon trip to Puerto Rico several years ago. I could not say that I am a fan. It did not appear to me that there were a lot of variations within the region. Even though I am lucky enough to live in a city with a notable Caribbean community, I never even bothered to check out the many Caribbean restaurants in my own backyards. So, I was delighted to find that the food in Antigua is a world away from Puerto Rico's.

Antiguan food drew influences from the British, the Jamaicans, and the Trinidadian cuisine. Common dishes on the menu include jerk chicken and salt fish. But I did not realize the heavy influence of Indian cuisine on places like Antigua. One of the most popular snacks in Antigua is Indian-style roti. These delicious wraps are just so flavourful and filling; they are often the cheapest meal on the island. Interestingly, many traditional Antiguan dishes are usually cooked at home and seldom appear on the restaurant menu. They include goat water and ducana, neither of which I encountered during my visit.

I am glad to report that I did not have a bad meal in Antigua. With each passing day, my expectations kept rising. On my second to last day, I was beach hopping along the island's south coast. One of the stops was Morris Bay Beach, where I found a little food shack called Gina’s Cook Shop. Before the trip, I had this humble lunch spot pinned on Google Maps, but I can’t quite remember where I heard about it. I visited the eatery just as Gina was starting the lunch service. She indicated that her signature beef stew would be ready in about twenty minutes and whether I might be interested in waiting. Well, I did not hesitate.

Gina’s plate of jerk chicken and stewed beef.

Man, It was worth the wait. This humble plate includes jerk chicken, beef stew, macaroni salad, white rice, grilled pineapple, and a small slice of omelet. I could say that this is probably the best plate of food I had in the past year. The chicken's smokiness and the pineapple's vibrant sweetness are divine. After having Gina’s cooking, I would never say I am not interested in Caribbean cuisine. At $35 XCD, the plate is priced well and should highlight your visit to Antigua. I only wish I discovered Gina’s cooking earlier on my trip. Judging from the number of locals dropping by for takeout, I am certain this place is not catered primarily to Western tourists.

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