Destination Profile - Oman — Tuljak! Travel Blog

So I will try something different about writing a "Destination Profile.” Rather than stating the obvious information and statistics that could be easily found on Wikipedia, I want to share some of our favorite memories in each country we visited. It is very much biased and intentionally so. Oman is truly our favorite destination to date. It was an unexpected paradise and the ideal place for those seeking natural and cultural adventures. From the fun-filled wadis to the century-old fortress, Oman has much to offer and arguably provides the best glimpse into an authentic slice of the Middle East. Oman has truly set the benchmark for all future traveling for us. Jokingly, we are constantly discussing finding our "next” Oman.

Favorite Activity: Nizwa Livestock Market

This one is tough because Oman is such a wonderful destination. After much thought, I decided it would be the weekly livestock auction in the ancient city of Nizwa. At dawn every Friday, herders from around the region gathered around the circular auction stance next to the Nizwa Souq. Starting with goats, the sellers would parade their prized animals around the circle to attract the attention of prospective buyers. Unlike a typical auction, there was no singular auctioneer. Each owner called out their asking price and negotiated with buyers on the spot. At first, the whole auction seemed chaotic, with people shouting over each other. But after a while, I got a sense of the trade rhythms and identified different players of the auction.

The tradition of livestock auction is rooted in the nomadic way of life. Even in this digital age, the century-old tradition is still going strong. Though no longer a well-kept secret among foreign visitors, the market retains an authentic slice of local life that has remained unchanged over the centuries. Except for cellphones and the pickup trucks that carry the livestock, this was as close to time travel as I have ever experienced. The auction was a great sensory experience in both sounds and smells. A plate of mutton over rice for lunch afterward could either delight or repulse you, depending on your tolerance level for livestock aroma.

Favorite Sight: Beehive Tombs of Al-Ayn

Brian may disagree, but my vote for the most subliminal place in Oman would undoubtedly be the Beehive Tombs of Al-Ayn. Thought to have been constructed between 2,000 and 3,000 BCE, this remarkably well-preserved necropolis belonged to the ancient tribe of "Magans.” the prehistoric people of the Arabian peninsula. While there are larger beehive tombs elsewhere in Oman, the tombs at Al-Ayn are known for their state of preservation conditions and the magnificent backdrop of Jebal Misht, the "Comb Mountain." The beehive tombs are high on a ridge and could be spotted from a mile away.

Our experience at Al Ayn embodied the essence of traveling in Oman: peace and authenticity. Despite being a UNESCO World Heritage Site, no tourism infrastructure was developed around it. There was no road sign pointing the way, let alone a paved parking area. During our hour-long visit, there was not a soul in sight, and we got to enjoy the tranquility of this place to ourselves. Watching the sunset by the beehive tombs is still among the most transformative experience I ever had. The silence and majesty of the landscape were mesmerizing. Is it silly to say I felt a spiritual connection to the ancient civilization?

Favorite City: Muscat

Coming from Dubai just a few days earlier, I genuinely had little faith that we would like Muscat, the Omani capital. But it did not take long to discover that this sprawling metropolis of over 1.5 million offers something for everyone. Due to its unique geography, Muscat's urban landscape is multifaceted and varied. One of the most picturesque areas is Old Muscat, the original fortified settlement still home to the royal palace and most government institutions. The juxtaposition between white-colored buildings against the barren, jagged peak is stunning. For most visitors, the city's first stop is likely Mutrah, the commercial and spiritual heart of the city. Known for its lovely corniche and large souq, Mutrah is a shopper's paradise for traditional souvenirs like a Khanjar and frankincense. It was a great place to wander and be lost among the labyrinth of narrow back lanes.

Despite the urban sprawl, Muscat somehow retains an air of calm and tranquility. Oman is one of the very few countries that adhere to its traditional culture through the language of architecture. Muscat’s harmonious urban landscape was no accident. The country’s strict building codes cap the maximum height of any building to seventeen floors. All structures must be painted in one of the five pre-approved color palettes ranging from white to beige. Sultan Qaboos decreed early in his reign that urban development and architecture must refrain from the ostentatious display of wealth. Unlike its arguably more gaudy neighbors on the Gulf, the architecture follows three basic tenets: simplicity, moderation, and elegance.

Favorite Ruined Town: Birkat Al Mouz

Oman has been modernized at a furious pace over the last fifty years. As modern utility and infrastructure arrived in many rural communities, many Omanis moved out of their ancestral homes into modern towns, often at the government's urging. As a result, hundreds of abandoned villages and houses are dotted across the landscape. At first, they were easy to miss since they seamlessly camouflaged amidst the natural landscape. Our visions took a few days to “acclimate” to the arid landscape. After a while, we developed keened eyes for spotting abandoned villages and castle ruins. Spotting them was an awesome activity during our road trip through the Sultanate.

Nizwa - 4.jpg — The oasis of Birkat Al Mouz.

For me, a good abandoned village must have a falaj and a dramatic location. The very best we visited was just a twenty-minute drive southeast of Nizwa, in the village of Birkat Al Mouz. The town is anchored by Oman’s largest working falaj system, Falaj Al Khatmain. Unlike many other well-known ruined towns, Birkat Al Mouz is still sparsely inhabited despite its decrepit appearance. As we walked along the falaj, we met a woman doing their washing and kids splashing the water around. It reminded me how true the saying was that freshwater is the ultimate source of life. Oddly enough, the best place to see the ruin of Birkat Al Mouz is approximately away. From a discrete hilltop, we could survey the whole oasis and the abandoned village and the entire layout of the falaj network.

Favorite Wadi: Wadi Shab

Oman is a wonderland when it comes to outdoor adventures. And no trip to the sultanate should be without visiting one of the many wadis in the country. With more than a dozen beautiful wadis to choose from in northern Oman, there is something for everyone regarding physical demands, scenery, and time commitment. After visiting about half a dozen of the most popular wadis, I understand that Wadi Shab is everyone's favorite for good reasons. Located just off the Muscat-Sur Coastal Road, the adventure began with a 3-minute river crossing on a tiny boat. After that, it was a twenty-minute hike along the narrow canyon. Along the way, a falaj provided much-needed reassurance that we were indeed on the right track.

Before we knew it, the hiking trail terminated before a series of shallow pools, and it was time for us to swim. The leisure swims brought us to a little path, which led us to the second pool. Since we arrived rather early in the morning, we enjoyed all the peace and tranquility. At the end of the third and final pool was a narrow tunnel just wide enough for one of us to swim through. On the other side of the tunnel is an open-air cavern with a waterfall. For anyone who is sure-footed and has the necessary agility, it would be fun to scale the waterfall and catapult back into the water. It was a thrilling experience.

Favorite Non-alcoholic Drink: Qahwa

Like elsewhere in the Middle East, coffee and tea played a significant role given alcohol prohibition. As a consequence, tobacco and caffeine are the poison of choice for the locals. Omanis took their coffee, Qahwa, quite seriously. Most often made with rosewater and spiced with cardamom, Omani coffee, and local specialty dates are always served to guests. Qahwa is so ingrained in the local culture that Omanis even use the word “qahwa” as a verb to invite people to their houses. Omani coffee is one of those beverages that you learn to fall in love with. Compared to American coffee, it is far more aromatic and carries a light floral scent. What also distinguishes Omani drinks is the elegant handle-free drinkware called fengans. Coffee will be constantly refilled unless one vigorously shakes their fingers to signal one has enough.

Favorite Alcoholic Drink: the Minibar at Shangri-La Al Husn

Since the Sultanate of Oman adheres to the Islamic law of Sharia, very few establishments are actually "licensed" to serve alcohol. All but the most upscale tourist hotels hold liquor licenses in Oman. So it was not until the end of our trip that we got to stay at a place with the proper license: Shangri-La Al Husn Resort. Shangri-La Muscat comprises three resorts, and Al Husn is considered the most exclusive and magnificent. This adult-only resort offers wonderful panoramic views and a secluded private beach. But the major perks that got us excited were the daily free minibar top-off and nightly complimentary wine hour at the resort courtyard.

After two weeks of dry vacation, a free can of Heineken never tasted so good. We made sure to raid that minibar daily. Having a drink on our terrace overlooking the Gulf of Oman was the best way to unwind toward the end of our two-week trip. Funny enough, the free minibar top-up was also prominently featured in the Travel Guides episode. It was interesting such a relatively minor amenity could be so memorable.

Favorite Accommodation: Sama Al Wasil Camp

As fabulous and glamorous a stay at Shangri-La Al Husn was, a night among the sand dunes was a league of its own. In the spirit of retracing the footsteps of Travel Guides, I naturally decided to stay at Sama Al Wasil Desert Camp. The 15-minute drive through the Sharqiya Sands to reach the camp was nerve-racking and exhilarating. Set up as the only year-round tourist camp in the region; the complex offers large common areas and all the amenities you could hope for. To experience the best Arabian ambiance, we stayed at one of the "sultan's tents' for the ultimate glamping experience… with air conditioning and running hot water. Sure, it has little to do with the authentic Bedouin experience, but the creature comfort of Sama Al Wasil is too perfect to resist.

Oman - Sama Al Wasil Camp.jpg — The reception area of Sama Al Wasil Camp.

Given the size of the camp, there were a wide variety of activities on offer. From the dune bashing to the camel ride, there was just enough to do for a two-night stay. We count ourselves lucky that we had the privilege to experience a rare desert rain. Even though the inclement weather deprived us of the starry night we had been dreaming of, it was still such a magical experience.

Favorite Food Experience: Camel Skewers

Like much of the Middle East, Omani cuisine might struggle slightly with distinguishing itself from its neighbors. Many Omani specialties, such as halwa or shuwaa, are by no means unique to the Sultanate. But in many ways, it doesn't matter. This being our first adventure into the Middle East, everything was quite a novelty, and we thoroughly enjoyed all the new flavors and textures. Ingredients such as rose water, saffron, and date make the cooking exceptionally fragrant. Of course, nothing was more exciting than trying the camel meat for the first time.

We got our first taste at Boom Burger in Nizwa and were pleasantly surprised by how juicy and familiar it tasted. It resembles quite a bit of bison meat. Our favorite piece of camel came from the Sama al Wasil Desert Camp; the delicious charcoal-grilled camel skewers were to die for. Coincidentally, it was exactly where participants on the Australian TV show Travel Guides tried the camel for the first time. I guess you could tell that our trip was to replicate their travel itinerary partly.

Favorite Fortress: Al Hazm Fort

You know you are in Oman when you encounter a fortress every ten minutes. Picking a favorite among them could be a challenge. Indeed, each castle offers something very unique. For the biggest, you would head to the impressive Bahala Fort, the only one listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Nakhal Fort offers the most picturesque position and views. Nizwa Fort has long been regarded as the most beloved, given its state of preservation and Nizwa's status as a former capital.

After visiting about a dozen of the most celebrated fortresses in the sultanate, our vote goes to the Al Hazm Fort. Situated along the famed Al Rustaq Loop, Al Hazm Fort is quite unassuming at first sight. It is neither among the largest nor the most impressive architecturally. What it lacks in grandeur is more than made up by the beautifully restored interiors, educational displays, and informative audio guides. Al Hazm Fort was such a breath of fresh air after walking through five or six barren fortresses. Besides the beautifully restored interiors, the keepers at Al Hazm were among the friendliest Omanis we met on our two-week trip. Despite the significant language barrier, they offered us several cups of Qahwa and an invitation for dinner. That was indeed our first introduction to the genuine hospitality of Omani people.

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Destination Profile - Oman