Dreaming In Erg Chigaga

For our two-week trip to Morocco, I mulled over for a long time whether to spend a night or two in the Sahara desert. Given this is our very first visit to Africa, it felt almost wrong not to visit one of the continent’s most famous landscapes. Even just the name Sahara evokes a sense of wonder and romantic feelings. The images of Lawrence of Arabia immediately came into mind. But at the same time, I couldn’t help wondering whether the realities of the Sahara desert camp could ever match our expectations. After all, “expectations are the thief of joy” is one of my favorite quotes.

I did go back and forth about visiting the Sahara. Our main concern was the logistics involved in a visit to the Sahara. From Marrakesh, it would be an eight-hour drive just to the edge of the desert. From there, it would still be a distance away on a 4x4 vehicle. But the distances aside, my ultimate fear was the suboptimal weather. While it may seem counterintuitive, deserts like the Sahara are not immune from rain or thunderstorms. We got rained on during our visit to Oman’s Sharqiyah Sands. That was a unique experience, but it was not the best day in the desert.

In our head, watching the sunset on the sand dunes and star gazing should be the highlight of any desert experience; both activities require decent weather. Given the hassles of getting to the camp and that it is technically the “rainy season” of Morocco, we chose to stay two nights to maximize the chance for decent weather. On the other hand, I hope we won’t get bored in the middle of a desert or be tired of their food offerings. Visitors are literally at the mercy of the staff.

Erg Chigaga vs. Erg Chebbi

In Morocco, two sand dunes receive bulks of foreign visitors: Erg Chigaga and Erg Chebbi. Choosing between the two is a hotly debated topic among travelers; each has its own advocates. It just so happens that both places are about the same distance from Marrakesh. By all accounts, the more popular of the two is Erg Chebbi, which is accessible via the village of Merzouga. A well-developed caravan stop, Merzouga attracted many visitors because of the plethora of hotels and other tourist amenities. Even more importantly, its proximity of Merzouga to Erg Cheebi allows visitors to stay at full-service tourist hotels instead of spending a night at costly desert camps with limited amenities. The giant dunes are visible from the town center, making the contrast particularly striking.

In contrast, the dune of Erg Chigaga is quite a distance away from the end of the road at the village of Mhamid. It seems like a workaday town with little tourism infrastructure. From there, it would be more than an hour’s drive through the sands. While that may sound like a drawback, Erg Chigaga’s remoteness is also its greatest asset. It allowed everyone to unplug from the outside world and enjoy the solitude. The absence of light pollution makes this a perfect place for star-gazing.

Ultimately, I decided that Erg Chigaga would suit us better because of its location and physical isolation. Erg Chigaga might be a better place to immerse ourselves in this spectacular landscape. For some reason, I felt this was the proper way to experience the Sahara and a highlight of our trip. While I may never know how Erg Chebbi compares, our time in Erg Chigaga was spectacular. It is one of those bucket list experiences we will never forget.

The Roads to Erg Chigaga

Our journey to Erg Chigaga started in the oasis town of Tinghir. From there, it was about a four-and-half-hour drive to Mhamid. It was a scenic drive through the countryside; the open landscape of Morocco was a refreshing break from the hustle and bustle of Marrakesh. We passed through numerous seemingly “anonymous” Moroccan cities along the way. It is not difficult to recognize common features: mosques, schools, and massive military compounds. It did make me think this peaceful kingdom may not be as peaceful as it appears on the surface. I hope only the heavy security presence was for external threats rather than internal surveillance.

Three hours later, we arrived at the oasis town of Zagora. Zagora, situated at the base of a small mountain range, is often regarded as a gateway to the Sahara. In the late 16th century, Morocco’s Saadians dynasty launched a campaign against the Songhai Empire, which led to the fall of the fabled city of Timbuktu. Zagora has been a cosmopolitan gathering and cultural exchange place with weekly regional souks for centuries. While the center of the town was perfectly manicured, its most famous attraction is the iconic ‘Tombouctou, 52 jours’ (Timbuktu, 52 days) sign at the entrance to the downtown. For whatever reasons, the 52-day caravan journey by camel to Timbuktu is a catchphrase popular with both locals and tourists. For those in the west, Timbuktu takes on a mystical. Spending that many days on camels in this foreboding landscape was unfathomable. I am just glad we could enjoy the comfort of modern travel.

Zagora’s iconic ‘*Tombouctou, 52 jours*’ (Timbuktu, 52 days) sign.

After a quick lunch in central Zagora, it was only ninety minutes to Mhamid. The scenery along the way became increasingly desolate; it felt like we were approaching the “edge” of civilization. It was exciting to witness sands begin to appear by the side of the road. We arrived at the outskirts to meet our driver Daoud, who would take us to the camp. His giant Toyota Land Cruiser is more suited for driving in the sands. As adventurous as I may be, I was not brave enough to self-drive into the Sahara as I did in Oman. The private transport to the camp cost us $100 USD each way. While that may seem steep, it is quite reasonable, considering it takes another two hours to reach the camp.

Daoud asked us whether we needed to pick up last-minute provisions before setting off into the Sahara. It dawned on me that we will be really “out there” for the next 48 hours. While we self-drove to the desert camp in Oman a few years ago, the camp was located only a few minutes off the city and followed a well-traveled track. Driving into the Sahara is an entirely different matter. Immediately upon exiting the town, I felt lost with all the tire tracks crisscrossing the sands. But unlike the Sharqiyah Sands, the first half hour of the drive was not exactly what we think of the Sahara. There was quite a bit of shrubbery and rocks littered around.

One of the benefits of hiring a private driver was having a temporary friend. Daoud grew up in a nomadic Bedouin household, but his family abandoned the nomadic lifestyle when he was a teenager. Living in Mhamid with his family, he had this two-hour drive through the desert as his daily commute. Brian and I marveled at his navigation skills through the maze of sand and shrubs. I had to ask him about his own system of wayfinding. It is a combination of vegetation, mountain ranges, and tire tracks. Amazingly, he could even navigate in the middle of the night by night stars.

Just a few days prior, he picked up some guests at Mhamid around midnight and drove three hours in the dark to the camp. I can’t help but imagine how miserable the journey would be. Let’s hope these guests have stayed at least two nights because it was a lot of traveling to get here. But what surprised us was just how many guests decided to self-drive. According to Daoud, about a quarter of their guests navigate through the desert using GPS. Although I believe I could make this drive with enough time and the right equipment, it would not have been pleasant.

Midway into our journey, we stopped at a makeshift hut owned by two women who set up souvenir stands for passing tourists. Daoud dropped off some provisions for them. I suddenly realized how critical community and kinship are in a harsh environment like this. Throughout the entire drive, Daoud greeted every other driver or herders. When physical survival is so precarious, no one can afford to be a hermit. This is why hospitality is so fundamental in nomadic cultures like the Bedouin.

As the sun sets lower, the high sand dunes of Erg Chigaga emerge from the horizon. We could finally see why we came all the way here. The dunes were even more stunning than any online pictures I have seen. Before we knew it, we finally arrived at our camp: Nubia Luxury Desert Camp. But before we could check out the campsite, it was already sense, which is the “golden hour” to experience the desert landscape. We could already see other guests standing on the top of the dunes not too far away. They arrived only half an hour prior and took the camels to the base of the high dune.

With limited time, Daoud offered to drive us there and hoped we could make it in time. Unfortunately, we had to call Wonda, our cat sitter urgently. The HVAC system at our apartment has been acting erratically for a few weeks now. It just happened that the New York area was going through a once-in-a-decade Polar Vortex on that day. We checked our smart thermostat, and it was only 38°F inside the apartment. Not only were we worried about the welfare of our cat, but another immediate concern was bursting pipes. We felt helpless in resolving the situation in the middle of the desert several thousand miles away.

We only wished there were cell signals on that dune.

Fortunately, there were limited cell signals on a dune near the camp. Brian could make a voice call to Wonda. We could transfer the cat into a neighbor’s apartment and turn on a few faucets to ac get the water flowing. While our immediate worry was addressed in the short term, the anxiety over our HVAC system hung over us for the rest of the trip. Of course, it was dark when we got off the phone. Thanksfully, we had another shot at the glorious sunset tomorrow.

Let The Magic Begins

After the call, we checked out the tent, our home for the next two nights. Based on the images online, Nubia is one of the nicest-looking camps at Erg Chigaga. At $250 USD a night, it is not an affordable option. Of course, I had concerns about how accurate those pictures were. Fortunately, the facility looked as beautiful as those pictures. It was jarring to see a luxurious tent with a king-size bed in the middle of the desert. It is the farthest thing from the Bedouin lifestyle. We are all conscious of the cost of our stay compared to the local wages. It is good to put our privilege into perspective.

Bonfire in the desert night was just perfect.

Being a luxury camp, Nubia has only six tents. It is intended to create a more intimate and exclusive feel to the entire experience. For this first night, the camp was fully booked. Among the guests are a young Moroccan couple and two American families traveling together. They are from the Philadelphia area and often travel together around the world. Their ten-day Morocco was a whirlwind and overly ambitious. They drove eleven hours from Fez earlier today and had to be in Marrakesh by tomorrow afternoon. In other words, they only had more than half a day in the desert camp. Now, that was a lot of driving just for a few hours in the Sahara. I felt sorry for them, to be honest.

After a three-course dinner, everyone sat around the bonfire with cups of mint tea or hot chocolate. It was an intimate experience talking with everyone about life and all the traveling. They inquired about the musical performance listed on the website. The entire staff quickly assembled around the fire, and the night of singing and drum playing began. Soon enough, the teenage sons of the families were drafted into singing and dancing. At first, I was a little uneasy about the risk of cultural appropriation. But it soon dawned on me that these tourism-driven cultural activities are just one means to preserve the tradition. As I saw the guys lost themselves in singing with smiles, I suddenly felt more like an observer than a guest.

Luckily, this night rewarded us with a clear view of the starry night. It was by far the most stargazing experience I have had. As imagined, spending a night in the desert has its own quirk. The most “challenging” is the showering facility. The ensuite shower looked luxurious, but it had no water pressure. It took a few minutes for the water to heat up by the solar-powered heater. Naturally, my first question was where the water was coming from. I suspect they didn’t drill a deep well right at the campsite.

The night in the tent was surprisingly comfortable. It was weird that the mattress here was more plush than the one we got back home. It was a cozy night under the luxurious bedding. It was one of the best nights of sleep in Morocco. However, we forgot how freezing cold the desert could be in the middle of the night. It was nice holding up in the warm tent when the wind began to pick up in the middle of the night. But I admit I was a little worried about being alone in the middle of nowhere.

Wait, I did not realize the desert could be purple.

To make the best of our visit, I set my alarm early to catch the sunrise. It was freezing this time of the morning. What amazed me was the mesmerizing colors at this hour. I have always assumed there is little difference between sunset and sunrise. It only occurred to me just then that the light colors at the sunrises have a unique purplish hue. I was completely mesmerized as I had never seen a desert with such color. It was as if the desert magnified the colors like an opaque mirror.

I proceeded to hike up to the highest dune in the vicinity and wait for the sunrise. I was honestly a little worried about getting lost as I hiked forward. Eventually, the camp disappeared from my sight. With no cell signal, I could only hope to make my way back without a problem. It has been a few years since I climbed the sand dunes, and I forgot how physically taxing it could be. It was more exhausting than hiking a solid hill of similar height. Standing at the top of the dune, I was mesmerized by the changing colors and how the shadow transformed the landscape.

Unsurprisingly, the American families were already up by then. Given their little time at Erg Chigaga, they had to take advantage of every minute here. I overheard the mom telling the staff they needed to get to Marrakesh for her 6 p.m. spa appointment at the Four Seasons Resort. That meant leaving the campsite around 9 a.m. Two kids were eager to try sandboarding at nearby dunes to make the most of their remaining hours. Both were experienced skiers, so they enjoyed the time on the dune. From the dunes, I could hear parents calling the boys and telling them they were already behind schedule. I could tell the kids would like to stay a few more hours.

Sandboarding from the highest dune around.

By the time I returned to the camp for breakfast, all the other guests had departed. All of a sudden, Brian and I felt alone in the camp. I have read that some hospitality experts say that the definition of luxury is exclusivity. That is why the most exclusive resorts tend to have very few rooms. Now that we were the only guests in the camp, I must say we both felt a little uneasy. Because so many staff were driving the departing guests, we felt particularly alone around the camp. It turned out that we quite enjoyed the company of our fellow travelers. After breakfast, Brian and I sat outside the tent and asked ourselves: “Now what?” I have to admit that we felt a little alone. What are things we could do in the middle of the day?

I must say I was a little stir-crazy as the morning went on. I was never the kind of traveler who enjoyed sitting around the pool reading a book. Now, I did not know what to do with myself sitting around staring at the sand dunes. We could not do much with our smartphones with limited cell reception. Brian and I decided to try sandboarding, but the sun was so intense in the middle of the day that we could barely stay out for more than an hour. Before we knew it, it was already time for lunch! It turned out time did move fast out in the desert.

Making A Living In The Sahara

During lunch, we had a chance to chat with the affable camp manager, Mohamed. I was eager to ask him about the logistics of running the camp in the desert. The travel blogger within me was eager to learn as much as possible about their operation/business. By learning about the camp, we could better appreciate all the work that went into creating such luxury in the desert. But on a more fundamental level, I wanted to know what the staff, him included, thought of foreign tourists staying in a luxury desert camp.

It should go without saying that all Sahara desert camps operate on a seasonal basis. No tourist would dare to come out there in the middle of summer when the temperature could soar above 130°F. Overall, the camp operates for only half a year. The campsite was dismantled at the end of each season, with most of the equipment stored in Mhamid. All that remained was the concrete pad for each tent and the mud hut that houses the kitchen and the staff’s living quarters. All the campsites hold the operating licenses from the Moroccan government. They are clustered close to each other to look out for one another.

Contrary to the luxury tents we stayed in, the staff’s simple adobe was very basic, or rough if you asked me. From my observations from afar, most of them slept on a thin mattress on the concrete floor. Of course, that was purposefully hidden from the guests' view. I had to ask Mohamed and Daoud for their honest opinion about desert tourism. Without skipping a beat, both pointed out that tourism is a lifeline for the local community. During the off-season, many are forced to relocate to bigger cities for job opportunities. Besides tourism trade, the main activities around here are the military outposts along the Algerian borders. The two countries had a historically tense relationship. The countries just broke off diplomatic relations in 2021.

A smaller hut with a water reservoir and solar panels is not far from the staff quarter. I quickly learned that pickup trucks from a nearby spring had to carry all the water daily. Of course, everything we needed, from food and equipment, had to be transported from Mhamid. I could honestly say the desert camps are far from sustainable. For that reason alone, I felt we needed to make the most during our visit. On the other hand, I just marveled at the effort it took to make the camp run. It was hard work.

Shortly after lunch, Daoud told us we would do a little afternoon excursion. After staring at sand dunes for the entire morning, we were ready for a change of scenery. This excursion was to visit a local Berber family and learn about their nomadic way of life. Now, I have traveled widely enough to understand that many cultural visits of this kind are staged for tourists. My inner blogger was eager to see whether this “visit” would be a trainwreck. Perhaps it would be amazing?

Now that we are acquainted with the desert landscape, Daoud is more “free-wheeling” with his driving. After a twenty-minute drive, we arrived at this small but beautiful oasis. I have been to an oasis before, but seeing an oasis in the middle of the Sahara was particularly jarring. The immediate area surrounding this oasis is a rocky landscape with a small grove of palm trees and dozens of acacia trees. Next to the palms is a pool of standing water. Daoud explained that this used to be the only lifeline and source of water for nomadic communities as far as an hour’s drive away. I was very tempted to ask whether I could sip this water.

Nowadays, drinking water is extracted from a government-funded pump a few minutes from the oasis. This is the spot where all the water for the campsite came from. The Bedouins would also bring their livestock here every week to hydrate. One could argue that this is the life source of Erg Chigaga. But I wonder how many tourist camps could be supported with just the natural spring instead. In hindsight, I should have asked Daoud to stop there for an in-depth tour.

This public pump station supplied all the fresh water for the surrounding camp.

On our way to the Bedouin household, we saw a giant caravan of cars traveling alongside us. It quickly became apparent that this is a well-rehearsed “cultural activity” in which all visitors partake. It was a little weird to see vans and vans of Western tourists descend on a Bedouin family. After another ten minutes, we arrived at an open field with several humble structures. According to Daoud, the couple lived here during winter, and all their kids moved to Mhamid. But I had a sneaking suspension that they only stayed in the desert during the tourist season.

The lone tree around here provides the much-needed shelter in this forbidden landscape.

Even though the whole premise of this visit may be staged, we enjoyed our little visit. Their homestead is set up into different sections. There is a hut for summer living, a livestock pen, a vegetable garden, and a separate kitchen tent. The homestead may not be grand, but it gives visitors a beautiful insight into how to erk out living in the middle of a desert. Even so, I still can’t figure out how this couple survived here without tourist incomes and outside supplies delivered by local camp operators.

The visit started with a Moroccan tea service inside their summer tent. It was fun to sit and observe how this tourism enterprise works. Based on the reactions of my fellow visitors that day, the most popular aspect of the homestead is all the animals. In addition to donkeys and camels, the majority of livestock is comprised of goats. A few young girls took particular liking to young kids, young goats, on the property. Those kids are adorable, but the girls probably did not realize they were raised as food, not pets.

Who knew the kid would be the star attraction of the day?

The best experience this afternoon was watching the lady making homemade pita bread right on the ground. Most of us had no idea what she was making until the dough began to puff up. What made this baking process unique was the fact that the dough was fully submerged in the sand. The heat from the sand made it a very efficient baking process. Brian was horrified by the lack of hygiene standards, but I convinced him to try it. Remarkably, everyone agreed the bread was excellent. Oddly enough, this is probably the best bread we had on this trip.

Everyone was ready to conclude the visit after the baking demonstration. We knew a small gratuity was expected. Brian and I decided to slip her twenty Moroccan dirhams. Funny enough, we were next to the two American ladies, and they asked whether a 300 dirham tip would be sufficient. We were floored by how generous American tourists could be in a foreign country. If everyone tips like those Americans, there should be no doubt that the Bedouin couple is doing very well.

Sunset Over The Sahara

When we returned to the campsite from our excursion, it was almost time for sunset. We were happy that the weather was as good as the day before. We finally got to enjoy a perfect desert sunset. To make it the classic desert experience, we arranged to ride the camels up to the base of the highest dune in the area. We only rode the camels once before in Oman, and it was an interesting experience. We always underestimate how tall these animals are. The most terrifying aspect was to get on the camel and to feel secure. They might move very slowly, but their movement could feel unpredictable. This is particularly the case when we were in a steep ascend.

A staff member led our camel ride. He is one of the youngest staff in the camp, and I could see how eager he was to practice his English. The two camels we got are called Chocolate and Biscuit. I find it remarkable how multi-lingual Moroccans are, particularly in the tourism trades. It is not unusual to meet Moroccans who are fluent in Arabic, French, Amazighs (Berber language), English, and Spanish. I think that speaks of Morocco’s cultural openness and geographic position.

After the camel, it was a quick five-minute hike up to the ridge of the high dune. At the time of the day, the sand began to feel cool to touch. It was indeed the golden hour in the sand. We found ourselves a nice perch waiting for the sunset. The air was still but not stuffy; this was the ultimate desert experience we came for. As we sat quietly to take in the landscape, we noticed tiny animal tracks crisscrossed across the surface of the sands. They turned out to be the African black beetles. Watching them dashing across the landscape effortlessly was a joy. At the same time, they reminded me of those scary Egyptian beetles from the 1999 movie Mummy.

We could spot other camps from the dune.

As the sunset, we were retreated by another beautiful show of colors from mother nature. Minute by minute, the sand dunes began to bear a unique metallic shine. Our photos look almost as if they were AI-generated. My vocabulary was inadequate to describe the speed of transformation in colors. It was an otherworldly experience that we would never forget. From our spot, we could see other tourists standing atop other dunes far in the distance. They were far enough that they probably couldn’t see me waving at them. Even though there are quite a few other desert camps in the vicinity, there is enough space between each to feel secluded.

Following the sunset, we slowly made our way back for dinner. It was a little spooky to have the camp all to ourselves. While we enjoyed the food, another kabob meal could be monotonous after a few days. After dinner, we settled ourselves around the bonfire like the previous evening. As much as I enjoyed Brian’s company, I do prefer the levities and music from the night before. Eventually, we asked whether we could turn off all the lights at camp to enjoy the night sky. It was a fantastic way to lose ourselves in the cosmos.

Over the bonfire, we hung out with camp manager Mohamed and a few other staff members. We had in-depth conversations about working in the desert. Since few Berbers still lived the nomadic lifestyle of their ancestors, they all agreed that working in the tourist camp here brought them closer to their ancestral roots. The solitude and a sense of kinship are cathartic for most of them. This may be a rare instance where tourism and cultural traditions complement each other.

The Final Sunrise

The following morning, I woke early to enjoy my final sunrise in the Sahara. Who knows when the next time we visit the Sahara would be? Brian decided to sleep in as usual, leaving the place to myself. This time, I hiked up to the same spot where we were for sunset. It was a solid half-an-hour hike, and I felt oddly confident in navigating among the sand dunes with confidence. Perhaps this is why Daoud could navigate the Sahara with GPS. On the other hand, I can’t help but wonder how the landscape here might shift from year to year. Would I be able to recognize this place a year from now?

Another day brought forward different coloration.

As expected, nature again put on a spectacular light show for me. The colors of the dunes this morning were far more moody and warmer. Before this trip, I assumed the desert always looked the same because of the lack of vegetation and seasonal variations. Little did I know what a chameleon the Sahara is. That said, it is true that the desert is most beautiful at sunrise or sunset. Just about every picture I took could easily be a postcard. The sun's low angle also revealed many wind-blown patterns on the dune's surface. The evershifting patterns were mesmerizing; it was a reminder that time never stands still.

I truly treasure this moment and feel enormously privileged to be here. Our being here is a testament to the magic of modern travel. All of these would not be possible even just twenty years ago. Modern travel is wonderful, but I am also mindful of the carbon footprint we left behind. On this trip, I have heard many Moroccans speak about the effects of climate change and how uniquely vulnerable the country is to the slightest change. Even Daoud spoke about how much less rain they received in Mhamid in recent years.

Shortly after the breakfast, we were ready to depart. We will stay in the village of Foum Zguid this evening, over three hours away from Mhamid. Knowing it would take another two hours to get to Mhamid from the camp, we would like a head start. Before departing, we gave appropriate tips to the staff members. Since we were the only ones staying there, we added a little extra in gratuity. We genuinely appreciate everyone’s warm hospitality. However, we understand just how dependent we were on them for everything. It was not as if we could walk off and grab lunch somewhere else. Brian joked that they could have easily killed us and made us disappear without a trace.

The majesty of Erg Chigaga will always stay with me.

It seemed like a dream when Daoud finally dropped us off at the parking lot in Mhamid. The desert landscape does play a trick on the perception of time. I could not tell whether we had too much or too little time in the Sahara. Unfortunately, our HVAC issues back home dampened our time here. Brian was so worried about our cat that he changed his flight so he could fly home out of Zagora the next day. We both tried our best to forget about that unrelated mental stress. Even with that, Erg Chigaga is a major highlight of our trip to Morocco.

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