For The Love of Querétaro

When Americans think of moving to Mexico, places like Mérida and San Miguel de Allende would likely come to mind. Strangely, Querétaro is rarely mentioned despite being ranked by Mexican media as one of the most liveable cities in the country. After our two-week trip around the region, we would wholeheartedly agree with such an assessment. Because this trip was very last-minute, I did not get to research much about Querétaro. I did not read my guidebook until we boarded the bus from Mexico City. All I knew about Querétaro was that it was a medium-sized state capital and a colonial city. Little did we know this would be my new favorite city in Mexico.

After a rough 5-night stay at the Airbnb in Mexican City, we genuinely looked forward to a peaceful getaway away from the bustle of the CDMX. More importantly, the capital's air pollution started to get to us. As the bus approached Querétaro, the scale of this city surprised us. Far from just a quaint colonial town, Querétaro is a thriving metropolis of 1.5 million. Despite the urban sprawl and its ultramodern highrises, the city almost immediately put us at ease. When the taxi dropped us off at Jardín Guerrero at the Centro Historico, we were completely in awe of the beauty and elegance of this colonial jewel.

Colonial Splendor of Querétaro

The Spanish conquest of Mexico is often misunderstood as an effortless endeavor by a few hundred conquistadors. However, the conquest resulted from a complex web of alliances between the Spaniards and the indigenous tribes. The central highland northwest of Mexico City, also known as La Gran Chichimeca during the colonial era, was among the last Mexican regions to be incorporated into the realm of New Spain. For about four decades, the nomadic Chichimeca tribes indigenous to this region successfully repelled Spanish colonial rules by waging incessant raids.

Unable to conquer their enemy by force, the Spanish took an entirely different approach. The colonial authority began introducing farming techniques to the Chichimeca. By promoting trade and economic integration, military conflicts subsided over time. With the help of Conín de Xilotepeque of the Otomi tribe, the region came under the control of the Spanish peacefully. According to local legend, military conflicts were avoided with the miraculous appearance of Saint James, the patron saint of Spain. In honor of the peaceful resolution, the city is officially named Santiago de Querétaro.

Temple and Convent of the Holy Cross of Miracles.

Numerous religious orders set up their shop in Querétaro to better assimilate the local population. Querétaro is blessed with many grand churches and colonial buildings as a major center of evangelization and colonial control. Around the city are monuments dedicated to missionaries and the conversion to the Catholic faith. While a singular grand cathedral dominates the skyline of many Mexican cities, Querétaro’s is punctuated with more than half a dozen grand churches. Besides the Querétaro Cathedral (formerly the Oratory of San Felipe Neri), my favorite would be the Church and ex-convent of Santa Rosa de Viterbo on the west side of the historic center. The richly decorated interior is worthy of a visit, but I was particularly intrigued by the unique Baroque scroll-shaped flying buttresses. Having visited so many churches worldwide, I have never seen an architectural detail like this. It looks both whimsical and crude at the same time.

Art Museum of Querétaro, the most splendid Baroque space in New Spain.

Fueled by the immense wealth generated from the region’s silver mines, Querétaro’s prosperity grew immensely and was nicknamed the “Third City of New Spain.” Lucky for us, Spaniards put their money to good use by constructing grand monuments. According to the guidebook, the grandest would be the Temple and former Convent of San Agustin. Now home to the Art Museum of Querétaro, the former convent is adorned with fanciful decorations of faunas and motifs of the Augustinian Order. The convent cloister is widely regarded as the most splendid example of Spanish Baroque in the western hemisphere. For me, It is quite reminiscent of Lisbon’s Jerónimos Monastery.

The historic center of Querétaro has been inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996. According to the nomination document, the city’s uniqueness among Mexican colonial towns is that it retained the geometric street plan of the Spanish colonial period side by side with the organic alleys of the settlement of the indigenous population. Conín, the Otomi leader, is credited with planning the city’s unique street patterns. For centuries after the city’s founding, different ethnic groups coexisted peacefully. This gentler approach to colonization made Querétaro a major political bastion of colonial rule.

For anyone who has spent enough time traveling through Mexico, it is almost inevitable to find the similarity among colonial towns almost exhausting. For that reason, I found this city to be particularly charming. Instead of a singular Zócalo, Querétaro has about half a dozen public plazas, all meticulously landscaped and adorned with great monuments. Traditionally, Plaza de Armas is considered the center of the town. The grand plaza is surrounded by the Government Palace of Querétaro and many of the grandest palaces of its day. We could hardly tell whether I was in Madrid or Central Mexico.

Two blocks away west of Plaza de Armas is Jardín Zenea, another grand plaza, which also happens to be the liveliest of them all. With a Baroque fountain and neoclassical gazebo, it is perhaps one public space that most resembles a traditional Mexican Zócalo. During our visit, the park was fully decked out with Christmas decorations. In addition to just one typical manager scene you come to expect, there were four. Some have tropical animals, hippos or giraffes, and one even has dinosaurs appearing. This is also the square with the most street performances and street vendors.

Wandering around central Querétaro could be a disorientating experience for some because of the number of public plazas. Heading one block south brought us to Plaza Constitución. It is the most modern public space in the historic center. Even with a modern parking garage underneath and ultramodern, it still fits in the historic ambiance of the neighborhood. Indeed, I marvel at how well Querétaro has managed the sporadic modern buildings into the fabric of this historic city.

One of the most unique edifices from the colonial period was the city's 18th-century Aqueduct of Querétaro. Built to replace an older canal regularly contaminated by sewage and run-off, the aqueduct runs approximately three-quarters of a mile and stands over 90 feet at the tallest point. The viewing platform at Mirador de los Arcos is conveniently located just at the eastern edge of Centro Historico. The aqueduct stands in sharp contrast with the surrounding urban sprawl. It took a little imagination to envision how the aqueduct once ran across the rural landscape of Querétaro. While it may not be as old or impressive as Pont du Gard or the Aqueduct of Vanvitelli, its engineering and state of preservation are breathtaking nevertheless.

I only wished we had more time in Querétaro; it would have been quite rewarding to walk the entire aqueduct. Surprisingly, the construction of this amazing structure was primarily financed by Juan Antonio de Urrutia y Arana, a Spanish-born nobleman. The construction took thirteen years and was designed with the aesthetic in mind. And just like Rome, the aqueduct supplied all the public fountains around the city. Needless to say, it is a point of civic pride. It was born from the structure being completely free of graffiti or billposting.

Revolutionary Querétaro

As Americans, we knew so little about Mexican history. Who are their founding fathers? And what date was their Independence Day? It was a shame that the education system back home treated Mexico as an afterthought despite being one of our closest neighbors. Unbeknown to us, Querétaro also happens to be the cradle of Mexican Independence. One particular episode, widely known as the Conspiracy of Querétaro of 1810, played an especially pivotal role. The conspiracy against the Viceroyalty of New Spain stemmed from systemic discrimination against the indigenous population and systemic political corruption. The conspiracy was hatched at Casa de la Corregidora, the home of Querétaro’s mayor Miguel Domínguez. The conspiracy for insurgency involved noted revolutionaries such as Ignacio Allende, Juan Aldama, and Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla.

Casa de la Corregidora, the home of the Conspiracy of Querétaro of 1810.

Unfortunately for the revolutionary cause, words of the planned insurrection reached the ears of the royalists. Miguel Domínguez and his wife, Josefa Ortiz de Domínguez, were imprisoned. While being sequestered in her house by the royalist’s forces, Josefa Ortiz de Domínguez got the secret message out to Allende and Hidalgo of the foiled insurrection plan. Her message prompted Hidalgo to proclaim the independence call far sooner than planned. Her dedication to revolutionary causes made her the most celebrated national heroine and is still fondly referred to as La Corregidora. In 1910, she became the first woman to be featured on a coin in Latin America.

For anyone interested in Mexican history, a visit to the Pantheon of Illustrious Queretanos is considered a must. Just across from Mirador de los Arcos, the small park pays tribute to famous locals, most of whom contributed a great deal to the independence of Mexico. Although I barely recognized any of these names, it is nevertheless fun to recognize the professions of various individuals by their outfits. At the center of the pantheon is the tomb of Josefa Ortiz de Domínguez. The chapel at the far end exhibited many photographs and historical artifacts related to her life.

At this location the Republican troops broke through during the early morning hours of May 15, 1867, ending the siege of this city.

Besides the war of independence, Querétaro is also associated with the story of the Second Mexican Empire and its sole emperor, Maximilian I. The Austrian-born archduke came from the famed Habsburg dynasty. By historical coincidence, the 30-year-old Austrian price was offered the throne of the French-backed Mexican monarchy. Despite his good intentions and various liberal reforms, his reign lasted only over three years. When the Republican forces barreled down on Mexico City, the emperor fled to Querétaro, a strong monarchist city. The three-month siege led to the imperial forces' surrender and the emperor's capture. A few remnants of the siege are still visible today. A big hole with rail guards on an otherwise nondescript wall is not far from the pantheon. It was the spot where the Republican army of Benito Juárez breached the imperial city.

The emperor was promptly put on trial at the local theater and was sentenced to death despite the appeal from international leaders. On 19 June 1867, Maximilian was brought to the Hill of the Bells (Cerro de las Campanas) on the city's outskirts. He was executed by a firing squad along with two of his top generals. On the spot of the execution, a memorial chapel was constructed by the Austrian emperor Franz Joseph to commemorate the death of his brother. Today, the Hill of the Bells is a memorial park dedicated to the tremulous history of Mexico.

The Republic Theater of Querétaro, the “Independence Hall” of Mexico.

Besides the memorial chapel is the colossal statue of Benito Juárez, Maximilian's archrival. Intentionally or not, it was said to be the largest statue of him in Mexico. Also on the ground is the Museum of Magical Past (Museo la Magia del Pasado), a one-room civic museum dedicated to the city's history. Though the Hill of Bells is a half-hour walk away from the city center, I think it is well worth the effort to pay a visit. It seems incredibly popular among Mexican tourists. But for those who care to learn about its history, it is a moving and memorable sight that should not be missed.

Upon returning to Centro Historico, I felt obliged to pay a visit to the Republic Theater (Teatro de la República) on Calle Benito Juárez. This was the same venue where Emperor Maximilian was sentenced to death. But for most Mexicans, the theater holds national significance for more dignified reasons. In 1916, the Mexican constitution was drafted and proclaimed here. In a sense, this was Mexico’s Independence Hall. Even more amazingly, this was where the Mexican National Anthem was first performed.

Querétaro The Beautiful

It is a little-known fact that Querétaro is the second most wealthy metropolitan area in Mexico, just a hair behind Monterrey. It also happens to be one of the fastest-growing cities in the country. While the city garnered its wealth from the regional silver mines, today’s Querétaro is known for attracting advanced manufacturing like automobiles and hi-tech machinery. Of course, a high level of foreign investment would not have happened without honest government and great security. Queretaro City is among the safest and least corrupt cities in Mexico. During our three-night stay, I never felt unsafe, and it was quite common to see women walking alone after hours with so little care of the world.

Museum of Contemporary Art of Queretaro.

By now, you could probably tell we are in love with Querétaro. There were just so many aspects of this city that were so wonderful. For one thing, nearly all the public museums, including the Pyramid of El Cerrito, offer free admission. We particularly enjoyed the Museum of Contemporary Art of Queretaro. The restored museum building was a highlight of its own. And like I always say, a free museum makes its artworks look even better! Speaking of museums, the city is also home to one of the quirkiest museums we have been to for some years. The Mucal Museum Calendar is entirely dedicated to the Mexican calendar…. Yeah, a museum dedicated to Mexican calendars was one for our book.

When it comes to tourism, Querétaro was doing everything right. The city provides sleek tourism brochures, helpful tourist information booths, and bilingual plaques posted outside for each historical monument and point of interest. There is no doubt in my mind that Querétaro would soon be a magnet for international tourism. As far as we were concerned, we certainly believe that this city would one day eclipse San Miguel de Allende to be the most popular touristic destination in Bajío.

Glossy broucher from the city’s Tourism Information booth.

One thing that jumps out to us about Querétaro is how clean and orderly the city is. To keep things in top-notch shape, the city is also particularly vigilant in restricting the proliferation of street vendors. And unlike Mexico City, there are public trash cans in just about every block, and we could see municipal cleaning crews roaming the street at all hours. These trash cans never overflow (even in busy areas) and are usually wiped clean. I could even say Querétaro may be the cleanest and most orderly city I have ever visited. Locals say municipal trash pick-up for private residences happens six times a week!

Jardín Guerrero and Ex Convento Santa Clara de Jesús.

Since we were visiting during the New Year, we were able to witness the festive side of Querétaro. The city’s center was fully decked out with colorful neon lighting. Growing up in Asia, I found the light not particularly impressive. However, it was a wonderful experience to see young families enjoying the most festive time of the year. And no festive occasion would go without snacks. During this period, rows of street vendors lined the two ends of Jardín Zenea. It was my first chance to sample a lot of street food simultaneously. From elote to gordita, I must have ingested ten different items in the span of two hours.

The Christmas drinkware on sale at Jardín Zenea.

One major culinary discovery I encountered was a curious-looking dish that seems commonplace in Querétaro. It seems like just about every four stalls was selling chicharrón dipped in a brown sauce. Though I was not squeamish about eating pig skin, chowing down such a big sheet of pork rind did not seem too appetizing. Given my almost non-existent Spanish skill, I took a leap of faith and ordered it without knowing what was in the brown sauce they dipped the pork rind into. Surprisingly, this was a sweet dessert, unlike anything I have ever tried. Called Buñuelos Queretanos, this special dish is fried fritters dipped in piloncillo sauce with guava and cinnamon. It is officially my favorite Mexican dessert now!

Festive lighting lined the Calle Francisco I. Madero.

This city has officially been placed on our shortlist of possible places for our retirement. And in case you are wondering, other cities on the list include Lisbon, Mérida, and Porto. While in Querétaro, Brian began contemplating a two-month intensive Spanish course here during this upcoming sabbatical. We wish we had chosen a career path to allow full-time remote work. Our retirement is likely a few decades away, so our Querétaro dream is probably on the far horizon.

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Colonial Splendor of Querétaro

Revolutionary Querétaro

Querétaro The Beautiful

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