From Sharqiya Sands to Sur
True to our quest to replicate the itinerary from the Oman episode of the Australian TV show Travel Guides, I was determined to stay at the same desert camp as they did in the show. Yes, it was silly, but it was a great decision. It is especially fun to rewatch the same episode after returning to the United States. Of course, looking back, we were very surprised by how few places they visited in one week. After a full week in and around the Nizwa area, we were happy for a slight change of scenery. We also figured we couldn't come to the Middle East without getting a dose of the sand dune stereotype. This is particularly true given the diversity of landscape in Oman.
Sharqiya Sands
The Sharqiya Sands (formerly Wahiba Sands) was about two hours west of Nizwa on a modern highway. We were both anxious, knowing that we had to drive into the desert to reach the night camp somehow. Everything was good until we reached the town of Al Wasil, one of the gateway villages into the Wahiba Sands. We drove to the entrance of the sand roads and sat for a minute... wondering whether we should deflect our tires as instructed by a government sign. We thoroughly researched the proper tire pressure for sand driving the night before but realized there was no pressure gauge in the car. After checking a couple of gas stations and a supermarket, we came up empty-handed. We ended up deflating our tires just above the recommended tire pressure range. We resorted to the tire pressure sensor reading in our Hyundai Tuscon without a tire gauge.
Sama Al Wasil Camp.
Sama Al Wasil Camp.
Sand driving was an interesting experience; perhaps it is closest to the sensation of skiing. Luckily, the track to the night camp is well-traveled and therefore compacted. Our worries quickly gave way to the general beauty of the sand desert. We were more than surprised that it only took us 20 minutes to reach the camp for the night. The Sama Al Wasil Camp is one of the biggest tourist camps among the sand dunes and one of the few open year-round camps. The Sharquiya Sands is home to the traditional Bedouin people. But we were realistic in understanding that our desert experience would not come anywhere near to the genuine Bedouin culture. It is perhaps difficult for an average visitor to experience true desert living.
Sama Al Wasil Camp.
Upon check-in, we got to speak with a family member of the owner/operator, who also operates the Jabel Sham resort we stayed at a few nights prior. As an immigrant from India himself, he proceeded to talk with us about the family's history in Oman and how welcoming Oman has been for an outsider like himself. It was important for us to understand a nation like Oman through the eyes of an immigrant, albeit very successful.
Our room, the "Sultan's tent,” was marvelous. Completed with a full shower and air conditioner, the tent is situated away from the main part of the camp and faces the impressive sand dune to the east. Upon settling in, we could wait to climb on the sand dune. If you had never walked in the sand desert before, it was a lovely experience since it is nothing like walking on a sandy beach. The sand is finer than anything we have ever experienced, and it was very cool to touch.
Glorious sunset in the sand.
For as comfortable and pleasant walking on sand was, climbing a tall sand dune was surprisingly exhausting. But once you reached the top, the view was so peaceful and serene. As far as our eyes could see, an ocean of sand was before us. And this is one of those items we will always remember. Unfortunately, the weather was less cooperative during our visit. Brian was beyond disappointed when we realized we could not enjoy the starry night in the desert. We all had this romantic image of the desert night sky, and the sand dunes are not as magnificent without the silvery sky. But we also felt fortunate that we got to experience actual rain in the middle of the desert. Watching raindrops into the sand was an otherworldly experience.
Waiting for sunset.
Obligatory camel ride.
The dinner at the camp was a highlight. Set up as a buffet spread, nearly every dish was among the tastiest in Oman. The cauliflower bake and the charcoal-grilled camel barbeque skewers were particularly memorable. Given how delicious camels are, thankfully, we were not especially squirmish about eating this majestic animal. Camel tastes similar to beef but without the gameness of lamb or mutton. I could not help going back three or four times for more. The service from the staff was so attentive that it was borderline over the top. Perhaps we were just a little uneasy with the services that many well-heeled travelers are accustomed to. Perhaps it would have been a different situation had the camp had higher occupancy. As nice as it was to be only a few guests in a large camp, the conviviality would probably be much preferred.
Of all the activities that were on offer, we, of course, could not pass on the camel trek as they did in Travel Guides. We decided to opt for a 30-minute camel trek. A camel ride right after a big breakfast was not exactly the best idea. But this is not an opportunity that could be passed up. Like everybody would tell you, the highlight of any camel trek is the getting on and the dismounting from the animal. There was no way to prepare me for the unexpected movements of a camel. Provided that Omani camels are mostly one-humped, it seemed way too easy for one to fall off the back.
The camels are more docile than we initially thought.
First time in the true sand desert.
Greetings from a camel.
The strength and dexterity of these beautiful beasts are amazing. I was amazed that my camel could handle my weight. Maybe I did feel a little guilty about chowing down her fellow camel the night before. The 30-minute trek was surely only a small slice of the desert trekking experience. But for two guys who have never been on a horse, it was an excellent experience. However, the murmuring and moaning of camels could disturb two city boys. There was a sense of relief and happiness as we drove away from the camp. We have conquered sand driving, dune climbing, and camel riding.... check, check, and check! These were hardly adventurous, to be honest, but it is nevertheless something new and exciting. One day in the desert was perhaps too short; we would return in a heartbeat.
Sur
After a night in the desert, we were walking toward the Indian Ocean with a brief stop at the very popular Wadi Bani Khalid. The drive from Sharqiya Sands to the coastal city of Sur was scenic and easy. By the time we reached Sur, it was just around the time for sunset. Truthfully, I wasn't feeling very well, so I was beyond happy to check in at a modern hotel for once. As charming and cozy as local B&Bs or desert camps may be, a good modern Western-style business hotel is just what we need. This was particularly true when I was feeling under the weather. Luckily, the brand-new Sur Grand Hotel was our home base for the next two nights. At 25 Omani Rials, it was easily the best accommodation deal during our stay in Oman. If I had one complaint about the tourism infrastructure in Oman, it would be the lack of mid-range affordable hotels like the Sur Grand Hotel.
The watchtowers and lighthouse of Sur is one of the iconic images of Oman.
This proud city is also well known in Oman as independent-minded. It was one of the last remaining settlements that came under the dominion of the Sultans. The seafaring heritage of the city's inhabitants creates some of the most entrepreneurial Omanis in the modern era. Many of the Sultanate's largest and most influential corporations were started by Sur's citizens. Despite its low profile, the wealth of this city is clearly on display, with rows and rows of handsome mansions lining the street. In the past decade, the wealth of Sur has been augmented by the discovery of natural gas and shell oil off its coast. The off-shore oil and gas platforms were impressive as you drove along the Muscat-Sur Highway.
Sur Lighthouse.
Nestled within a residential neighborhood is Al Aygah Castle.
What brought many foreign visitors to Sur were not any particular attractions but a decent base for several popular day trips such as Wadi Shab, Wadi Bani Khalid, Wadi Tiwi, Sharqiya Sands, and the Turtle Reserve at Ras Al Jinz. The city is also well connected to Muscat with a beautiful coastal expressway. For travelers, Sur is a paradox. It has barely enough sights to warrant a stay but not enough to satisfy one. In many ways, the city is a miniature of Muscat. It has its own Cornish, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, local souq, and rocky outcrop with watchtowers guarding the mouth of the port. But what set Sur apart from Muscat was the lack of city centers. As we drove across Sur, stately homes and commercial plazas were seemingly endless. After consulting with our Bradt Guidebook, we realized that sprawl is a major feature of Sur.
Khor Al Batah Suspension Bridge.
Fortunately, the postcards and images in the guidebook directed us to some of the most classic views of this tranquil city. We found such a spot at the Al Ayjah Bridge, which offers a lovely view of the watchtowers and the Al Ayjah Lighthouse. In medieval times, as many as 400 large merchant ships made intercontinental voyages from this port. Once a maritime powerhouse and a base for trade with Africa, the city was once the most important trading port between the Indian subcontinent and Africa. In its glory days, Sur was the most lauded ship-building center in the Middle East. However, Sur has seen its fortune decline greatly since the breakaway of the Sultanate of Zanzibar in 1856. Its strategic links with Africa further deteriorated after the British banned the slave trade in the middle of the 19th century and the arrival of the British India Steamer Navigation Company.
The highlight of any trip to Sur would surely include visiting the Dhow Factory Yard just south of the Al Ayjah Bridge. The unassuming location (GPS coordinates: 22.561876, 59.536835) and the seemingly chaotic layout made us wonder whether it was open to visitors. The strayed dogs, a rare sight in the Arab world, and littering tools all over did not help our uneasiness or fear of trespassing. There is no admission cost or need for an appointment. The access was relatively free and open; visitors could even climb the rickety construction ramps to take a peek at the vast expense of the boat deck.
The splendor of handcrafted dhow.
The splendor of handcrafted dhow.
The splendor of handcrafted dhow.
Dhow (or samuk in Arabic) is a distinctively wooden vessel of the Indian Ocean and is traditionally constructed without nails. The shipyard in Sur is now the sole surviving workshop in Oman that still fabricates the traditional boats entirely with traditional methods. What makes this place special is the lack of blueprints when constructing these beautiful boats. Every plank and stern is handcrafted to exact precision. Because each dhow is unique and made to specification to the individual commissioner, constructing these enormous structures could take as long as nine months, and the production rate now slows to one a year for the bigger dhow boats.
Not surprisingly, local fishermen in Oman would not be able to afford these superyachts of the earlier times. Nowadays, the largest client base for traditional handcrafted wooden dhows is wealthy businessmen from the Gulf states. I wish the Sultan would commission a giant dhow to add to his royal yacht fleet. For a monarch that safeguards the cultural patrimony of Oman, it would have been a marvelous and appropriate royal commission.
Atop a half-finished dhow.
View of the boatyard from the Al Ayjah Bridge.
As we exited the shipyard, we spotted a half-opened door with an English sign for a showroom. Inside was a vast array of model dhows and objects in nautical style. Sur was one of our last stops during our trip to Oman; we were hunting for souvenirs. One item that piqued our interest, in particular, was this laser-cut wooden board that was quite peculiar-looking. After playing with it for a minute or two, the shopkeeper demonstrated that it was a collapsible wood bowl shaped like a dhow. At 10 OMR, it is perhaps just a bit overpriced, given the quality of the material. In any situation, I would be tempted to do some serious bargain. On the other hand, we believe this is a way to support the business that safeguards an honorable cultural tradition.
