Hill Town Hopping Around Umbria

Our recent trip to central Italy was hopping among the numerous Umbria and northern Lazio hill towns. But again, it is difficult not to do it any other way. Trip planning took a while since selecting the right mix of hill towns could be tricky. There are some marquee towns like Orvieto and Assisi. On the other hand, there are plenty of territories free of a deluge of foreign tourists. Of course, this being Italy, the most popular country for travelers, there is no truly unexplored place. This time, I made a counterclockwise trip around Umbria with a home base in Orvieto, Perugia, and Amelia. We fit in roughly a dozen hill towns during our week-long visit.

The small hill town of Soriano Nel Cimino.

Despite spending a summer studying abroad in Rome during my junior year in college, I did not venture out of the city much. Except for a few weekends in Venice, Florence, and Naples, it did not appear to me that the beauty and soul of Italy could be so close to the Eternal City. The few hill towns I visited are those we visited because they have an impressive Renaissance villa, such as Villa Farnese in Caprarola. The hill towns of Italy are made for slow travel. During my trip planning, I was anxious about not having a long list of monuments on my trip itinerary. In the end, I understood that Italy is difficult to exhaust for a traveler. Italian’s enthusiasm for life and community could be best experienced in the hill towns of Umbria and Tuscany. So, how should one go about it?

Now, renting a car is a must when doing hill town hopping. Prior to our trip, I researched exhaustively about the logistics of driving and parking for the various hill towns we were interested in visiting. To my relief, any hill town of decent size has a well-organized parking regiment. Larger cities like Perugia, Orvieto, and Spoleto offer handy elevator/escalator access to the town center. In the case of Perugia, its MiniMetro is one of the coolest transport schemes we have seen. A cross between gondola and subway, the system is efficient and an attraction for infrastructure nerds like myself. But there are some precautions about hill town hopping.

One thing of note is to watch out for ZTL (Zona Traffico Limitato) regulations. ZTL was established to limit the amount of visitor car traffic to the congested city center, and we could thank the regulation for giving us the tranquility of these cities. However, it is too easy for the foreign visitor to drive past the sign without notice. There have been countless horror stories of tourists being charged hundreds of euros for being unaware of the regulations. This being Italy, there is no centralized information and research about the whereabouts of these zones. Fortunately, there are many resources to help you spot those bothersome signs.

The Papal Minor Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi.

Driving in Italy itself is not without its stress. Driving a manual with a Fiat is not without its challenges for us. Luckily, Brian saved the days. But it is not without significant difficulties. Driving takes significant concentration, from aggressive truck drivers and ever-narrowing roads to old ladies wandering across the street. But it is also tough to get behind the wheel, knowing that you must abstain from all the magnificent Italian wine until the end of the day.

Speaking for myself, picking the right hill towns could be a daunting task. Every one of them was so darn picturesque. We missed many fine hill towns like Norcia, Terni, and Spello. It is also difficult to get the right mix of towns. For anyone who might be interested in taking a drive around Umbra, here are some of our favorite hill towns in order:

Spoleto

Located just half an hour south of Assisi, Spoleto was once the seat of a powerful duchy. Perched high up on a hill by the foot of the Apennine mountains, the town has a sense of grandeur without being mobbed by tourists and souvenir shops. Arrival in town was quite fun. After parking our car at the municipal garage, we ascended through a series of underground escalators. Much like a subway system, a series of exits along the way drop you off at various places in town.

What charmed us about Spoleto was the number of magnificent sights within its historic center. The absolute highlights are the Church of Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and its glorious murals by Filippo Lippi. Another highlight is Il Ponte delle Torri, an impressive medieval aqueduct that brings fresh water to the hilltop fortress. Unfortunately, the passage was closed when we visited, but it was nevertheless an engineering marvel.

We both wish we could have spent a night here. Spoleto is a town with amazing visas and bustling local businesses. I think we will rank it as our favorite hill town on this trip, and we do not have the slightest hesitation in returning. If you need another reason to visit, consider that it is also home to the Basilica of San Salvatore, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Perugia

Among the major cities of Umbria, Perugia is not only the seat of government but also the only true metropolis in the entire region. For Americans, it is, unfortunately, best known for the murder trial of Amanda Knox. Before our trip, I wondered whether there was still a sliver of anti-American sentiment. Fortunately, that was a fool's herring. Perugia is undoubtedly the most livable city in Umbria. Its youthful vitality is quite a change from other sleepy hill towns. It is home to Università degli Studi (University of Perugia) and the Foreigners University (Università per Stranieri). The steps fronting the main piazza become a quadrangle of college students. This equilibrium between fun and tradition makes Perugia a wonderful home base for exploring.

Our apartment rental was delightful. A beautiful roof terrace gave us a fantastic view of the sunset and Oratorio di San Bernardino. Perugia is where the jolt of cosmopolitan vibe meshed with the tranquility of a hill town after dark. Music also played an important role in Perugian life. Aside from the world-renowned annual Umbria Jazz Festival, concert programs abound. Upon arrival, it is worth a little homework to find out where the free concerts are that night. We spent a solid hour at a concert in the magnificent Sala del Notari at Palazzo dei Priori. It was amazing how you enjoyed such a magnificent venue by walking up to it. There are also numerous interesting sights within easy walking distance. We recommend the Church of Sant'Angelo, the Etruscan Arch of August, and the post-modern utopia by Italian architect Aldo Rossi.

Perugia also has many fantastic restaurants and bars. Our absolute favorite is this little wine bar called Bottega del Vino, just around the corner from the Duomo. It is a peaceful, elegant oasis with fantastic wine and affordable daily specials. The warmth of the owner made us repeat customers. One particular piece of advice for those arriving in their car: park your car at the parking lot of the Pian di Massiano MiniMetro station. The free parking lot is safe and permits overnight parking; we saved about €40 parking fees by taking the MiniMetro, and it was a fun way to see Perugia. The only caution is the operation schedule; double-check or risk an expensive taxi ride.

Soriano Nel Cimino

What a great opener for our first classic Italian hill town! Among all the hill towns we visited on this trip, this is perhaps the most 'authentic'’ As far as I know, I don't believe Soriano Nel Cimino is in any English guidebook! I stumbled upon the city because of an unbelievable hotel deal from Palazzo Catalani. It is one of the most atmospheric and neat hotels we have stayed in Italy. All rooms have either a heavy timber ceiling or a fine fresco. It is truly an oasis, and you can't beat the fine view of the hill town and its imposing Castello Orsini.

I was surprised that a hill town I picked out randomly for a night of stay turned out to be one of the most beautiful.

Despite its small size, Soriano Nel Cimino has everything you would think of in an Italian hill town, from an impressive parish church to an imposing medieval castle. Once a stronghold of a Roman noble family, Orsini, the family coat of arms is everywhere. Archaeologists believe its origin traces back to the Etruscan times. While many of its sights are open to the public with limited hours, they are not necessarily must-see attractions. However, you shall find a nice spot to watch a beautiful sunset or morning mist among the surrounding rolling hills. It is a place to take a vacation from your vacation and a peaceful refuge from the full day of sightseeing.

Orvieto

For good reasons, the marquee hill town in Umbria is Orvieto. Chief among Orvieto’s attractions is the awe-inspiring Duomo. It is hard to claim you have seen Umbria's best without seeing this Gothic Romanesque architecture masterpiece. I could almost equate it to my feelings about the Pantheon in Rome. I will be content with just sitting in the piazza at night, staring at this magnificent facade of marble and mosaic. The real treasure is the Chapel of the Madonna di San Brizio inside. There, you will find the amazing mural by Luca Signorelli; his depiction of resurrection and apocalypse is both filled with allegorical references to contemporary events. For art lovers, this chapel is a place of pilgrimage. It is often said that Michelangelo studied these murals intensively before carrying out his Last Judgement in the Sistine Chapel.

Orvieto's other tourist draw is the famous Saint Patrick's Well (Pozzo di S. Patrizio). Designed by Antonio da Sangallo the Younger, the architect of Palazzo Farnese, and the Apostolic Palace in the Vatican, this well is famous for its depth and double-helix ramp for water-carrying donkeys. We think it was quite a letdown, but it is still a must-do. The well is a reminder of Orvieto's status as a place of refuge for the troubled papacy during the Sack of Rome. It also reminds us how, unlike Tuscany to the north, Umbria is historically the realm of the Papal State.

Walking along the cliff-sde street of Orvieto.

Like many other hill towns, Orvieto's distinct geography made a strong impression. Like Civita di Bagnoregio, the tuff stone gave the town a distinct cliffside profile and a sense of security from invading enemies. Walking along the cliff is a treat; grab a picnic and enjoy the beautiful sunset. Orvieto is charming at night; the bustle of tourist crowds evaporates, and the locals reclaim their town. It is the quiet moment that seduces you.

Civita di Bagnoregio

If you did an image search of Italian hill towns, there is no doubt what would show up is Civita di Bagnoregio. It has become so famous that it is not just shortened to "Civita.” As we were having dinner in Soriano Nel Cimino, the waiter recommended a sister restaurant at Civita and warned us about the inundation of tourists at this supposedly 'dead' hill town. What we did not anticipate was not the crowd but how big the actual town of Bagnoregio is. Just how busy it was? We had to park at a secondary unpaved parking lot that required a 30-minute walk/climb. The town itself was charming, but the anticipation of the disappearing sky city distracted us from discovering its charm.

At the end of Bagnoregio, the valley opens up, and Civita is in all its glory. It soon dawns on us that it is not an easy stroll. Fortunately, the novelty of the donkey's path makes them ascend a climb to another world. The view from the Porta Santa Maria was stunning, as breathtaking as the hill town itself. The charm of Civita is not just its physical isolation but also its romanticism and fatalism. Through the centuries, the erosion of the tuff stone has sent buildings tumbling off the cliff. It is this self-destructive force that makes this a draw for visitors.

Unfortunately, there was nothing authentic about this place. It ran counter to the normal description of a ghost town. Instead, tourists mobbed it with plenty of signs for English menus and souvenir stalls. It should be obvious from the get-go when we were told there is a two Euro charge for entering the town. What is my advice? Come early or right around sunset time. Come prepared, and you can enjoy the town as it is. Rather than being critical and cynical like us, perhaps be grateful that a ghost town from 20 years ago is now more prosperous than ever.

Todi

One of the best-preserved medieval hill towns, Todi is anchored by the Duomo and an impressive collection of civic architecture: Palazzo del Priori, Palazzo del Popolo, and Palazzo del Capitano. Aside from a gelato shop and a newly open United Color of Benetton, we felt we were completely transported back in time. The plain and unfinished facade of the cathedral could be deceiving; the interior is breathtaking. The absolute highlight is the mural of the Last Judgement by Ferraù Fenzoni known as "Il Faenzone". It is said to be directly inspired by Michelangelo's version in the Vatican. The contrast between the drama depicted in the mural and the barren interior is awe-inspiring.

About 50 minutes by car from Orvieto, Todi is ideal for a half-day trip. The grandeur of this hill town is not the individual monument but the beautiful architectural ensemble. Compared to her famous cousin, Todi is a place where the rhythm of local lives could be appreciated more intimately. A popular meeting place is Plaza Garibaldi, which offers a commanding view of the Tiber River Valley.

What drew me to Todi is not the hill town but the Church of Santa Maria della Consolazione outside the city wall. The design is often attributed to Donate Bramante, the Renaissance master architect for St. Peter's in the Vatican. While this attribution is obscure, its design is undoubtedly a simplification of his proposed plan for St. Peter's. Upon further study, this church is the epitome of the Renaissance ideal. Seeing what Saint Peter's could have been like was a thrill. The simplicity of pure geometric form is supposed to symbolize purity and the direct path to the heavenly realm. It is hard to believe one could stumble up a 'perfect' church in a remote hill town.

Gubbio

Unlike other hill towns, Gubbio is nestled at the foothill of Mount Ingino and provides an impressive panoramic view as we drove up from Perugia. Gubbio has always been a draw for tourists partly because of the story of Wolf of Gubbio. It has been a trendy destination in recent years since it is at the terminus of Saint Francis' Path of Peace. The historical center of Gubbio has a decidedly medieval character with a hint of Gothic flavors that are quite unique among surrounding hill towns. There is an easygoing atmosphere that is difficult to describe.

A new tradition for us is to visit the place on the cover of our guidebook. In this case, it is the Palazzo dei Consoli of Gubbio. Standing proudly on Piazza Grande, this palace-turned-museum has been the civic symbol of this proud city for centuries. The crown jewel of its collection is the Iguvine Tablets, the rosetta stone for the ancient Umbrian language. Another remarkable sight is the ruin of a Roman theater just south of the large free parking lot. Sure, there are plenty of Roman ruins in Italy, but seeing one sitting humbly off a parking lot is still a thrill. For those visiting during summer, check the schedule of the musical performance. What is better than taking in a concert at an ancient theater?

The one activity we must recommend is Funivia Colle Eletto, the gondola lift linking Gubbio to the hilltop Basilica of Saint Ubaldo. The basilica is the destination of the Corsa dei Ceri, a festive run held every year on Saint Ubaldo Day, the 15th day of May. Three teams of participants each carry a statue of their saints mounted on a wooden octagonal pagoda. At 13 ft high and 620 lb, the pillars are carried up over the shoulder from uphill from the Piazza Grande.

Inside the basilica, you could see some of the pillars used in the past. The festival must be a sight to behold. The gondola is the attraction to itself; the best way to describe the system is a series of standing-room-only bird cages. It took Brian a few minutes to feel comfortable to get on. It could be a terrifying experience for some but also one of the most interesting and serene for others.

Assisi

Assisi requires no introduction, especially since the election of Pope Francis. Merely a 20-minute train ride from Perugia, Assisi feels a world apart. It is an active pilgrimage center and a living tribute to Saint Francis. The Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi anchors the north end of the hill town and houses Francis's resting place inside an underground chapel. The basilica includes two main levels: magnificent mosaics and exquisite murals. Behind the basilica is a complex of courtyards filled with exhibition space and gift shops.

The papal Basilica of Saint Francis — The Papal Basilica of Saint Francis

But to get a better glimpse of Saint Francis’s life and teaching, one must visit the Basilica of Saint Mary of the Angels on the city's outskirts, behind the train station. Compared to its counterpart up the hill, the basilica is where Francis preached and the most sacred place for all Franciscans. Although stark in contrast, the jewel of the church is the Porziuncola, the rock chapel where Francis prayed. He later constructed a hut nearby and founded the Franciscan order. It is an excellent place to place ourselves in the saint's footsteps. The significance of the basilica is evident with a large conference center, research institute, and lodging for pilgrims. And another good reason to visit both basilicas? They are two of the only three papal minor basilicas in the world!

The hill town of Assisi is delightful in its own right. The further from the main basilica, the fewer outright knick-knack shops there are. Aside from Piazza del Comune and Rocca Maggiore, many interesting churches warrant a visit. These include Chiesa Nuova, the Abbey of Saint Peter, and the Basilica di Santa Chiara. Chiesa Nuova is particularly fascinating because it was erected at Francis's place, and there is the stairwell where Francis was imprisoned by his father. This is where Francis decided to answer the divine call and renunciate worldly goods.

Another serendipitous find is the Church of Santa Maria delle Rose on our walk back from the fortress. This unassuming church houses the special works by Italian artist Guido Dettoni della Grazia. Entitled MARIA, the abstract piece is dedicated to the life and deeds of the Virgin Mary. A modernist design in more than 30 different materials, the sculpture is intended to be touched and held in hand, unlike a Catholic rosary. While it is not particularly moving for non-Catholics, the exhibit is memorable; the artist's and docents' passion is palpable.

We recommend lunch at Osteria La Piazzetta Dell'Erba just off Piazza del Comune. Their creations are Italian classics with a modern twist. The outdoor seating is particularly pleasant, but reservation is recommended. If you could, also try to attend/observe a mass at the Basilica of Saint Francisco. As Rick Steve said, there are times when it is best to park your protestant sword outside of a Catholic shrine.

Amelia

The town of Amelia is a paradox; there seems to be no great piazza or monument, yet it is hard to forget about you. I do have to admit that we did almost no research ahead of time except reading a two-page description in our guidebook. Our visit to Amelia was partly due to the desire to stay in a charming inn 10 minutes away from Amelia. It was a nice change of scenery from the days of the apartment rental. Without much time, we limited ourselves to only two hours in Amelia the next morning.

Amelia is impressive in its approach. With its main cathedral atop a steep hill, the town is encircled by impressive fortifications. The polygonal masonry works date back to the Etruscan time and are attractive. Although very little is known about the Etruscans today, their cultural legacy is etched in a stone wall like Amelia's. Living among ancient history is the case here. The archaeological past of the town is what will enchant visitors. I wish we had the time to visit its archaeology museum and see its bronze statue of Roman Emperor Germanicus.

Castiglione del Lago

Although technically not a hill town, Castiglione del Lago is an excellent stop on your drive along Lake Trasimeno. Before modern times, the town used to be cut off from the surrounding area, becoming an island. The strategic location brought cycles of destruction. The fortification Fortress of the Lion is the star attraction with a commanding view of the Lake and its surrounding environment.

Although it is a 13th-century construction, you could not help but imagine the scheme of the famed Battle of Trasimeno during Roman times. The access to the fortress is through a narrow covered walkway from the museum in Palazzo della Corgna. A Renaissance palace of the local ruling family, the museum possesses numerous fine frescos and tapestries depicting the famous lake battle.

Walking into the fortified wall along Lake Trasimeno.

I will vote for Castiglione del Lago as the best lunch stop. Because of its Roman origin, the straight avenue, decumanus, makes the town a quick and easy stroll after the light lunch. We had a decent lunch at the outdoor terrace of Ristorante La Cantina. The serenity of the lake view and courtyard trellis is a quick reprieve from a busy day of sightseeing. Although small, the town has a noteworthy church: Santa Maria Maddalena. It is perhaps not known for an altarpiece formerly attributed as young Raphael's work.

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