Inca Trail: Day 2 - Piscacucho - Huayllabamba

I can’t remember the last time I slept in a sleeping bag. So, I was glad I had a decent night's sleep. The rumbling sound of the Urubamba River turned out to be the perfect white noise machine. Unfortunately, Brian did not sleep well, which did not bode well for how he might enjoy the Inca Trail. He immediately told me walking the Inca Trail might not be his best idea. I suggested talking to Jhon, who probably judges someone’s fitness condition for the journey ahead. At breakfast, Brian mentioned his reservation to Jhon, who seemed befuddled. To him, Brian seemed to be in good health and spirit. In all his years of guiding the Inca Trail, Jhon recounted maybe just two or three hikers who abandoned the hike, all in much worse shape than Brian.

The tented hut at the base camp was a quite a luxurious surprise.

In the end, Jhon convinced Brain to give it a go, as there was no obligation to continue if he found it too difficult. He could return back to the base camp with a porter if needed. Considering the trek cost is non-refundable, I was keen to see Brian continue the journey. It seems sad to come all this way and turn around. On the other hand, I very much doubted that he would enjoy the experience, not just for the physicality but also for the lack of creature comfort on the trail.

After a big breakfast, it was time to do a formal meet and greet with all the porters. We could see the team assembling from the dining room. We were all shocked by the number of porters for the three of us. There were eight porters, a chef, and our guide Jhon. The porters in our groups range from Inca Trail veterans to young guys fresh out of school. Our group is one of the most famous porters on the trail: Maximiliano. At 68, he is the oldest porter on the Inca Trail and has worked on the trail for as long as I have been alive. His remarkable dexterity and personality earned him the nickname Rocky, after the famed Rocky Balboa.

A group photo with all the porters for our trek.

The introductory session was brief and awkward. It was difficult to get all their names, but I did remember the names of the chef and the two chief porters. I only wish I spoke some Spanish to express my personal gratitude for their hard work. Given how routinely they worked the trail, I could imagine these guys were rolling their eyes at just another group of Western tourists. In speaking with Jhon, most porters on the trail are farmers from the surrounding valleys and work as freelancers, largely part-time. Personally, I found the Inca Trail’s system of porters incredibly fascinating. I am determined to learn more about the business side of the Inca Trail over the next few days.

To improve the working conditions of the porters, the government has begun to establish limits on the weight each porter is allowed to carry in recent years. The current regulations allow each to carry up to 25 Kg (or 55 lbs). That may sound like a heavy load, but it is only half of the typical load porters carried before the 2005 regulations. According to Jhon, the enforcement of these rules is not strictly enforced by the government, unfortunately. It is up to each operator to self-regulate. So I was happy to see the team was weighing their sacks in the back. Trekkers need to observe how their operators conduct their business. Let’s not judge them from their website but how they conduct themselves on the trail.

Saying goodbye to flush toilet and hot shower.

Speaking of porters, it is interesting to see all kinds of items or gear they had to carry. Because the Peruvian government adopts a “leave-nothing” policy, everything we need for the journey needs to be transported by porters. That includes everything from a portable toilet to tents and all the cooking equipment. While the tour operators could purchase food ingredients from local families on the first day of the trail, they must carry all the food for the rest. Seeing them packing stacks of eggs and bread rolls was mindboggling.

After a quick visit to the bathroom, we bid our farewell to the base camp. With it, we were saying goodbye to hot showers and clean flushing toilets. It would be four days before we enjoy all the creature comfort. Neither Brian nor I are particularly outdoorsy. I can’t even remember the last time I went without a shower for a day. Thanksfully, the low humidity and cold at night in this part of Peru make it a lot more manageable to go without access to a shower.

From the base camp, we hiked out the same way we arrived last night. We were lucky with the weather today. The sky was crisp blue with light breezes. The beauty of the valley came into full view. I started to understand the real appeal of the Inca Trail. There is a reason why it is considered one of the most famous treks in the world. From the suspension bridge, we got our first glimpse of the first Inca site of trail. As far as I know, a set of small terraced fields by the river has no official name. Interestingly, the rail line bisected the site, which leads to Aguas Calientes, the gateway to Machu Picchu.

The first business of the day was to check in at the official checkpoint. Frustratingly enough, the check-in area was not located by the big “82 Km” sign, and we had to backtrack five minutes in the “wrong” direction. The government set a strict daily quota of 500 hundred to preserve the trail, including visitors, guides, and all porters. Before the protest at the beginning of the year, the Inca Trail permit was nearly impossible to get, so the government was strict with verifying the identity of the trekkers. Everyone must carry their original passport. There are three checkpoints on the Inca Trail and a final document check at Machu Picchu.

The check-in was quick, as Jhon took care of all the paperwork. Next to the checkpoint is a visitor center, which houses exhibits showcasing the cultural and natural history of the National Archaeological Park of Machu Picchu. The national park encompasses quite a large area, with Inca Trail and Machu Picchu being just a small section. Jhon uses this opportunity to give us an overview of the journey ahead. He also showed some historical photos from the original 1912 expedition by Hiram Bingham.

Maybe because we started the day later than most groups, the visitor center was largely empty during our visit. I supposed all the hikers were eager to get on the trail. Funny enough, the most memorable part of the whole visit was the Andean spectacled bear. Visitors are often surprised that there are bears around Machu Picchu. They are about the size of a black bear and have distinctive white markings. They are supposedly elusive. Even for a long-time tour guide like Jhon, he has only seen them twice on the trail. Hopefully, we could get lucky on this trek and see one. It will make this journey all the more special.

An obligatory picture in front of the famous Inca Trail sign.

After an obligatory photo before the famed signboard, we were finally ready to set off on the trail. Crossing the bridge again was a relief, finally clocking in some kilometers. Immediately past the bridge, the trail ascended steeply for a short stretch. Brian immediately told me that he was struggling a little bit. I can’t help feeling a little worried for him because these were the first five minutes of the trail.

Thanksfully, this first section of the Inca Trail was flat after that initial climb. The trail runs roughly parallel to the Urubamba River this morning. As mentioned earlier, multiple Inca trails are leading to Machu Picchu. The other trail is now the train track visible across the river. The look of the trail we were on was very different from how I imagined the Inca Trail. There was no ancient stone paving or cloud forest. Instead, it was a wide dirt trail and a semi-arid landscape. There were plenty of cacti and Spanish moss all around. The surrounding scenery reminded me of some parts of California. Jhon quickly reminded us that this trip would pass through numerous microclimate zones.

Cacti and Spanish moss… were we in California?

Half an hour in, Jhon pulled us to the side of the road and pointed to a cactus. On the cactus's surface are clumps of mold-like substance that seem to infect many other cacti in the area. Jhon picked up the “mold” to reveal a flat white bug underneath. These bugs are called the cochineal and are native to a large swatch of areas stretching from Chile to New Mexico. These little insects feed on cacti’s moisture and nutrients. These insects are of important commercial value. Their body contains carminic acid, which could be mixed with aluminum or calcium to create carmine dye, a precious substance prized throughout history. The dye has been used since pre-Columbian times and is now a critical commodity in the food and cosmetic industry.

About an hour into the hike, Brian started to regret his choice of backpack and shoes. Since the porters could carry up to 4.5 kilograms of luggage for each trekker, it is normal for hikers to travel in a light day pack. I bought myself a new packable 28L backpack from Matador Travel Equipment for the trek. After some debate, we thought his typical commuter backpack should be sufficient for this trek. But it became obvious that Brian was the only one on the trail carrying a bag with no hip belt. It was not an optimal equipment choice in hindsight. Similarly, Brian opted to hike in sneakers, which may be comfortable on the flat section of the trail, but it may not be the best choice for the later part of the journey.

At one point, Brian turned to me and asked whether I was enjoying the trail because he had a miserable time. We decided for him to abort the trek. Luckily, this section of the trail still had cell signals, so Jhon could phone one of the porters to meet us with our shared duffle bag. After separating out our stuff, I said goodbye to Brian. He hiked the same way back to the base camp and was accompanied by porter Cesar. Jhon contacted Ricky, the tour company's owner, to help Brain work out the logistics of getting to Ollantaytambo and onward to Machu Picchu. According to them, he should be able to access Machu Picchu with the Inca Trail permit and meet up with us there.

Brian felt devasted by not continuing on; he evitably took that as a personal failure. I must confess that a part of me was happy that Brian decided to abort the mission. Otherwise, he would hate every minute of it. Because I am typically the one doing all the trip planning, I felt helpless that I wouldn’t be with him for the next few days. I hope Ricky will be able to take good care of Brian. More importantly, Brian could use the next three days to rest up and do some sightseeing on his own.

Ten minutes after saying goodbye to Brian, the train became very steep. By the look of it, I was glad that Brian did not have to go through this section. But like most hikes, the trail is less daunting than it looks. Once reaching the plateau, I got excited. I could spot some kinds of Inca sites in the distance. Since this was the Inca Trail, I was thrilled about seeing any Inca ruins. After all, isn’t this what made this trail so special?

Walking to our first Inca site was tremendously exciting.

As we got closer to the Inca site, Jhon pointed out that there was a much bigger Inca site down on the valley floor. Known as the “Hummingbird Village,” Patallacta is the largest Inca site at the confluence of two rivers. The site comprises a series of agricultural terraces and houses on the top. Patallacta’s strategic location made it the largest permanent settlement before reaching Machu Picchu. Based on the construction and the ratio between terraced fields and the number of houses, archaeologists conclude it was a military settlement.

Best Machu Picchu, Patallacta is the largest Inca site on the Inca Trail.

According to Jhon, the most “popular” route to Macchu Picchu during the Inca time was the route following the Urubamba River. That would explain why Patallacta is located down on the valley floor. That was also the trail that Hiram Bingham used to reach Machu Picchu. Ironically, the easy terrain of this riverfront Inca Trail was perfect for running the rail lines to Aguas Caliente, so little of the original trail survived to this day. I imagine most of us would still prefer hiking the more challenging/scenic route that we were on. That said, it felt weird to get such a splendid view of Patallacta without being able to see the site up close. The Incas burned the settlement during their wars against the Spanish conquistadors. For that reason, it was only rediscovered a hundred years ago by Bingham.

Fortunately, a much smaller Inca military settlement is next to our trail. This installation functions as a toll station for this upper trail and is one of the signaling stations during the Inca times. The Incas were known for an effective communication system in the administration of their empire. John encouraged us to view all the Inca sites we would visit as a web of administrative apparatus. I found the geometric rigidity of these settlements very impressive. Compared to their contemporary European counterparts, the barracks are laid out with military precision. You must respect the engineering know-how of the Incas.

Jhon was pointing out the Dead Woman’s Path, the highest point along the trail.

Leaving behind Patallacta, the trail descends down into a lovely green valley. The scenery became decidedly greener and lush. It was strange just how quickly the landscape changed. Before long, we stopped in front of a signpost with the elevational markers of the Inca Trail. It was an excellent place to understand the physical challenges ahead of us. Today’s section is generally considered the easiest, with the least elevational changes. I was slightly intimidated as this day has been more challenging than any stage of Camino Portugués. Looking at the elevation profile for tomorrow’s stage terrified me. The climb to the Dead Woman’s Pass (or Warmiwañusqa) is often said to be the most challenging segment of the entire trail.

Our first lunch on the trail was magnificent.

Just when I started to have doubts about my physical stamina, we arrived at our lunch stop. Our porters had set up their cooking equipment and waited for us awhile. The crew borrowed the kitchen space from a local family and set up the so-called “dining tent” in her garden. According to government regulations, all tour operators must carry a dining tent. That may sound fancy, but it is hardly the most pleasant dining environment under the blazing sun. Chris and I looked at each other and asked Jhon whether we could use the nearby thatched pavilion instead. The gentle breeze and views of snowy peaks in the distance were magnificent.

The four-course lunch was magnificent and was more elaborate than our dinner last night. The highlight for me was the appetizer ham-wrapped heart of palm and the quinoa tostada. A side of giant Peruvian corn with cheese was also a nice addition. Despite the rustic setting, the service was very posh. The pre-meal hot towels and on-demand tea services are more than necessary. We can’t help feeling guilty about being served like royalty. There was an urge to help out with basic chores. As soon as we finished the meal, the team scrambled to pack up and race ahead of us to the night campsite.

Cross this bridge toward Machu Picchu or turn left toward Salkantay.

As beautiful as the scenery may be, Chris and I can’t help feeling a little disappointed with the Inca Trail thus far. It was not the remote hike we first imagined. All along the trails were tiny villages inhabited by farming families. Naturally, the entrepreneurial locals nowadays took full advantage of the popularity of the Inca Trail with tourists. While most families still earn a living farming and keeping alpacas, many make extra income from charging public toilets or selling everything from coca candy to bottles of Coca-Cola. The family that rented out their spaces for our lunch also ran a corn beer stand. Almost every other porter stopped for a giant glass of these yellow and pink drinks. They cost just a quarter of a Peruvian sole and are supposedly the most nutritious substance on the trial. In retrospect, I really should have tried one.

This wall relief of hummingbird looks almost identical to the logo of Ecoinka.

It was only another hour from our lunch spot before we reached the night's campsite. Jhon explained that the company purposefully scheduled the lunch late. In his experiences, people often had difficulty hiking after a big meal. I agree with his assessment. This final stretch of today’s trek was more difficult. The slope felt unrelenting; I worried I might be unable to take on tomorrow’s daunting route. In contrast, Chris took the hike in stride as it was a piece of cake compared to the Salkantay Trek he did a week ago. Before long, we came across a fork that led toward the Salkantay. I can’t help wondering whether Chris wished to go in the other direction.

After about half an hour of steep ascend, we arrived at the village of Huayllabamba. This was said to be the last village before reaching Machu Picchu and the best place to stock up. Shortly after seeing the village’s welcome sign, a handsome-looking cafe sells everything from soda to red wine. Knowing that I was struggling a little, Jhon suggested we pop in for a drink. While I settled for a bottle of Gatorade, they got a celebratory Corona Extra. I applaud them for consuming alcohol since it would knock me out at this altitude.

Needless to say, we paid a premium for everything on sale here. My Gatorade cost me 14 soles, but it was worth every penny, and their beer cost even more. Since everything has to be carried up on the back of porters, the inflated cost is probably justifiable. And speaking of alcohol, the government prohibits tour operators from serving alcohol on the trail. But as far as we know, no regulation against tourists bringing their own booze exists. That might make your guides and porters very happy.

The cafe also has one of the last WiFi hotspots before Machu Picchu. Jhon followed up with Ricky to make sure Brian was taken care of. To my surprise, Brian decided to spend a night at the base camp instead of going to Ollantaytambo. But honestly, I was looking forward to unplugging from the digital world for the next few days. Not every day we got to remove ourselves from the bombardment of information. I love the idea that the next time I reconnect with the outside world, it will be at Machu Picchu.

As we left the village, Jhon pointed to a white church towering over the entire village. This giant church is the mayor's pet project. It was apparent that Jhon was not particularly pleased with Peruvians’ obsessions with Catholicism. Despite having his son in a Catholic elementary school, he seems wary of the powers amassed by the church and equates the Catholic church here as part of Peru’s endemic corruption. He bemoaned that the government would spend so much on a massive church before setting up a local medical clinic.

After passing through another checkpoint, we arrived at our campsite a quarter before five. Our porters were setting up our tents. And just like our lunch spot, the campground here is the back garden of a local family. It felt like we were trespassing on private property. It is funny that this family has quite a large house with a sizable kitchen, facilities with modern plumbing, and an enormous dining/entertainment room. Despite that, the crew set up all the mobile facilities, including a sizable kitchen tent and portable chemical toilet.

Sitting in a camping chair with a cup of coca tea, I noticed a group of trekkers hiking past our campsite. They belonged to Alpaca Expeditions, the largest tour operator on the trail, and are identified by their neon green pack covers. I could not avoid coming across them both online and on the trail. This company must have spent a ton on online advertisement and is excellent at branding. Nicknamed the “Green Machine,” Alpaca Expeditions is particularly popular because of their affordable prices. Before my trip, I watched some YouTube videos by those who hiked with them. But their “personality” seems just a little “off” to me. All their porters are instructed to line up and clap as tourists arrive at camp. It seemed overly choreographed and contrived to me. I much prefer the laidback style of Ecoinka.

With no shower facility available, I did a “dry bath” inside the tent with body wipes. The porters also brought each of us a bucket of warm water to wash up with. I tried not to feel gross after a long day on the trail. Thankfully, the temperature drops quickly at this altitude, keeping us comfortable in the evening. Before sunset, Jhon pointed out the infamous Dead Woman's Pass high on a ridge in the distance. That is the highest point and the most challenging section of the entire trail. I must admit that it is quite intimidating. After a wonderful dinner, we called it a night early. I just prayed I would have a decent night of sleep.

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Inca Trail: Day 2 - Piscacucho - Huayllabamba

Inca Trail: Day 3 - Huayllabamba - Pacaymayo

Inca Trail: Day 1 - Cusco - Piscacucho