Kazbegi - A Hike to Remember — Tuljak! Travel Blog

Like every visitor, we started our Georgian journey at Tbilisi, the enigmatic capital. While Tbilisi is a beautiful metropolis, no trip to Georgia is complete without a trip to the countryside. People often ask what the best day trip option from Tbilisi is. The most popular stop seems to be Mtskheta, a forty-minute ride from central Tbilisi. The pint-sized town is home to the culturally important Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery; both are listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. While Mtskheta’s popularity is justified, my vote for the best day trip from Tbilisi has to be Kazbegi.

Russia–Georgia Friendship Monument in Gudauri.

Kazbegi, a municipality within the region of Mtskheta-Mtianeti, is just over two and a half hours away from Tbilisi. While that may seem quite a distance, the road was spectacular along the way. Known as the Georgian Military Highway, this nicely maintained mountain pass took us past one of the most gorgeous natural scenery we have seen. This legendary road has been one of the major arteries connecting Russia and the Caucasus. This route has been used since ancient times and earned its name during imperial Russian rule. Tsar Alexander I ordered the necessary improvement for more efficient troop mobilization.

The name “Military Highway” does not seem particularly lovely, but it is just about one of the most scenic drives we have ever taken. Within two hours, we left behind Mtskheta's chaos and heat and entered the serene desolation of the high Caucasus. From scenery temperature to air, traveling along this road was like a journey of gradual transformation. It was no joke when early travelers described this to be one of the best scenic drives in the world. We passed through several beautiful Soviet-era memorials, such as the Russia–Georgia Friendship Monument and the Three Hundred Aragvians Memorial.

A common scene along the Georgian Military Highway.

The road culminated at the high point of Jvari Pass. Besides the shrouded cloud, the pass was particularly memorable because of an enormous orange-colored waterfall of sulfur deposits. It was just another pleasant surprise Georgia had for us. It seemed like everywhere we went, there was something new and unexpected. Beyond the Jvari Pass, the road runs along the valley floor of the Terek River. It was only another forty minutes until we reached the town of Stepantsminda, an ideal base for our Kazbegi exploration.

Kazbegi or Stepantsminda?

Stepantsminda is the only “city” in the region, and it still resembles a small village at best. One of the most confusing things is the name Kazbegi. This small town got its name from Georgian Orthodox monk Saint Stephen (Stepan-Tsminda), who established a hermitage here. But with the expansion of the Russian Empire, this strategic realm was conquered to secure the all-important trans-Caucasus passageway. As imperial expansion expanded, local revolts followed. Fortunate to Russian tsars, a local lord named Kazbegi became an avid supporter of Russia and was elevated to a high-ranking officer in the Russian army. This local domain was colloquially referred to as “Kazbegi.”

Soon after the Soviet takeover of Georgia, the name was officially adopted as part of the Soviet Russification effort. It was not until 2006 that the town adopted the original name Stepantsminda. Today, both names are in use, and Kazbegi seems to prevail due to easier pronunciation and the fact the famous peak that brought visitors here retains the name Mount Kazbegi. To add to the confusion, the Georgians called the mountain Mkinvartsveri meaning “Ice-top” in the Georgian language.

Gergeti Trinity Church

For most visitors, we included, the name Kazbegi is synonymous with the Gergeti Trinity Church (წმინდა სამება). Perched atop a dramatic bluff at the foothill of Mount Kazbegi, the church is often the poster image of Georgian tourism. This small church was visible from just about anywhere in Stepantsminda, like a light beacon for locals. This dramatic church dates from the 14th century. It was said that during warfare, the precious relics of Saint Nino and her grapevine cross, a religious symbol of the Georgian Orthodox Church, were transferred here from Mtskheta. Even though all religious activities were banned during the Soviet years, the church survived in remarkable conditions due to its isolation.

Walking around a herd of free-roaming cattle.

Whether it is hot to get to the church is an open question. Even though there is a steep dirt road for vehicles to the north of the church, driving on it doesn’t seem like a good item. The car rental place where we rented our 4WD vehicle specifically warned us about taking this road up. Only very selective models could make the steep incline. I bet there were plenty of prior incidents from past clients. This short 10-minute drive could be as lethal as the desolate gravel road from Lentekhi to Ushguli.

With self-driving out of the question, the next option was to take a jeep taxi. Even though it is a perfectly logical way up, hiring a 4WD vehicle while already rented one just seemed wrong. I also assumed it was going to be reasonably priced. Thankfully, I researched the best route to get to the church. The most obvious and popular route was to follow the jeep track up the hill, but it was clear that breathing in jeep exhaust and walking behind plumes of dust was not exactly the most scenic route.

Having experienced horrible weather the evening prior, I jumped at the excellent weather early in the morning. Knowing that Brian could not care less about the blue sky, I made a beeline toward the foothill right after breakfast. I followed the online recommendations and parked just outside Cafe Metrevelebtan. The trailhead started just a hundred feet beyond and was marked by a metal barrier. At that point, there was a choice: take right for the main path or go left to a small grassy trail. I then remembered the motto: to the road less traveled. A herd of cows blocked that trail, adding to my sense of adventure.

The trail runs along a trickling stream, and I had the whole trail all to myself the entire way. Soon enough, the trail became steeper and gradually less discernable. Eventually, the trail disappeared, and I found myself amid the wilderness. But with no heavy vegetation except grass, I never felt lost. Before long, the Gergeti Trinity Church reappeared in the vista, and could barely contain my excitement, not so much for the church but the surrounding nature.

View toward Stepantsminda from the church.

Eventually, the grade leveled off, and I arrived at the plateau just behind the church. The vast expanse of the unspoiled landscape was absolutely spectacular. The dirt track for jeeps soon appeared. I was sure glad I didn’t follow that route. It would have been quite a messy and miserable experience. At the same time, the well-traveled dirt path of the jeeps was also quite magnificent. Overall, it only took me 35 minutes to complete this trek. In comparison, the taxi with Jeep could take as long as 20 minutes. Overall, I would say the hike is the way to go if you have a decent fitness level.

The final hike to the church was easy and gentle. A ramp led me to the front entrance of the church. The place offers a commanding view of Stepantsminda and the surrounding valley. I could spot our hotel in the distance and phoned Brian to see whether he was up. It was enjoyable to speak with him while looking back at him from a distance. As silly as it sounds, I did feel a sense of accomplishment. I would not have enjoyed this view as much if I had taken the taxi. I could not think of a better way to enjoy a quiet morning at this perch. I only wish I brought along a nice thermos of coffee.

And like many journeys or modern pilgrimages, the experiences along the way were more intoxicating than the final destination. Given its outsized publicity and reputation, Gergeti Trinity Church is among the smaller churches in Georgia. It is a simple cross-plan structure topped by a cupola. Like most orthodox churches, the cupola let in a stream of light that carried a divine symbolism. The interior is a singular space and a mixture of century-old frescos and those of the modern era. However, the distinction between the old and the new was demarcated. Unfortunately for tourists, photographs were strictly prohibited inside the church.

Being one of the most popular shrines in most of Georgia, a couple of priests were on hand to pray and console the pilgrims. Based on my hour-long stay in and around the church, it seemed like a balanced mix of tourists and local worshippers. I have heard a tour guide next to us explaining that most locals still chose to make the trek on foot here as a sign of their devotion. According to the guidebook, the Soviet authority constructed a cable car lift connecting the church to the town below. This apparently enraged the locals, who orchestrated its demolitions soon afterward. We could still see the remanent of the cable car station.

Something majestic about this muddy track.

So, it surprised me that I later learned that just two years after our visit, this dirt road leading up to Gergeti Trinity Church was replaced by a paved road. Equipped with a full-size parking lot, I suspect the place lost much of the romanticism and mysticism in the public imagination. Sure, it is not as intrusive as a cable car, but it was still a bit of a loss. Ultimately, this is the ultimate debate in tourism: increase access vs. authenticity. I am simply glad that we got to experience this magical place before the arrival of true mass tourism. On my way back, I decided to take a different path, one that is slightly more popular and gentle. I always found it interesting that the perspective and vista were so different on the way back. Even though there was not the same anticipation, the view over the valley can’t be beat.

It was a beautiful morning, but there was an unfortunate incident. When I eventually got to the car, a man emerged from an adjacent to demand 15 GEL of parking fee. But with no signage regarding parking charges around, I refused and drove away with him yelling behind me. For whatever reason, I still think of that incident often. I wondered whether I had done wrong or should have taken a softer approach and negotiated with him diplomatically.

Rooms Hotel Kazbegi

One of the luxuries in visiting Stepantsminda is an overnight stay in Rooms Hotel Kazbegi. Almost every budget traveler online suggests this is the luxury hotel you should splurge on in Georgia. It was no wonder getting a reservation during the high season was tough. I organized my 10-day itinerary around their available reservation. It also followed our habits of enjoying a little pampering toward the end of the trip.

A former Soviet sanatorium, this property should have none of the architectural charms you would expect from a luxury hotel. The two-winged concrete structure is austere and solemn, but the cedar wood cladding and black metal balconies soften the exterior. Without a doubt, the best feature of the hotel is the amazing view of Mount Kazbegi. Few hotels wowed us as much as Rooms Hotel Kazbegi. From the moment we arrived, there was this sense of warmth that you expect from an alpine lodge. Everything from the keys, fireplace, and “Do Not Disturb” exude contemporary warmth.

A great place to enjoy your morning coffee.

The ground-floor public spaces have floor-to-ceiling windows that open to a massive deck. The lounge space is filled with comfortable leather couches and a rustic bookcase. And just like an airline VIP lounge, our every need was catered with great warmth and professionalism. The whole space felt like a cozy living room high above the mountain. The project was an absolute triumph, designed by young Tbilisi-based interior designers Nata Janberidze and Keti Toloraia. The little touches like a telescope and true library ambiance made it particularly memorable.

Another major highlight of Rooms Hotel has to be its amazing food offerings. The daily breakfast buffet was nothing but amazing. More than any other buffet, the breakfast here reminded me of the word cornucopia. From a smorgasbord of cheese and honey to a made-to-order breakfast entree, this is a breakfast that Brian and I still talk about years afterward. Best of all, Georgian fruit and vegetables were among our best. We have never tasted such flavorful tomato and eggplant. While I can’t claim they had the best produce at Rooms Hotel, it should be close. Even for a dessert lover like myself, I have no problem clearing a big plate of vegetables in Georgia.

The dinner here was equally amazing. They somehow elevate the already tasty Georgian cuisine to the next level. Even the simple tomato salad with walnut paste dressing was done with great care and sophistication. Of course, the meal price here is considered high by local standards, but it is still comparable to a mid-range restaurant in Tbilisi.

View of Mount Kazbegi & Gergeti Trinity Church.

Image Credit: United States Library of Congress.

In the years since its opening, Rooms Hotel itself has become a destination in its own right. Almost every travel blogger would recommend a visit, even if you are not an overnight hotel guest. Many visitors staying at nearby guesthouses will visit Rooms Hotel to enjoy its amenities. For those who decided to splurge on overnight stays, spend a little extra for a front-facing room. To wake up to the glorious Mount Kazbegi was an amazing experience.

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Kazbegi - A Hike to Remember

Kazbegi or Stepantsminda?

Gergeti Trinity Church

Rooms Hotel Kazbegi

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