Meiji Shrine

Of all the most interesting facts about Japan, I am most fascinated by the country’s monarchy. There are currently less than thirty reigning monarchs in the world, but only one bears the title “emperor”: the Emperor of Japan. What was amazing about the Japanese monarchy was its stability and longevity. According to historical records, the Japanese monarchy dates back to 660 BC, predating imperial China by four centuries. It was even more extraordinary because all 126 Japanese emperors descended from the same bloodline. In contrast, there were 559 emperors spread over eighty-three dynasties in China.

No monarch in the long line of Japanese emperors is as consequential as Emperor Meiji (明治天皇). Reigned from 1867 to 1912, Emperor Meiji was the second-longest-reigning monarch in Japan and the great-great-grandfather of the current emperor, Naruhito. He presided over the country’s most pivotal historical period and shaped today’s Japan. So, when planning our time in Tokyo, I made the point to visit the Meiji Jingū (明治神宮), the Shinto shrine dedicated to the deified spirits of Emperor Meiji and his wife, Empress Shōken.

Emperor Meiji was born during the feudal period when the political powers were welded not by the emperor but by the powerful Tokugawa shogunate. For an extended period in Japanese history, the emperors were only political figureheads without involvement in day-to-day politics. An emperor’s foremost role was being the head priest of the Shinto religion and a symbol of national unity. The Tokugawa shogunate followed an isolationist policy toward the outside world. In the summer of 1853, American Commodore Matthew Perry arrived at Tokyo Bay with a fleet of American battleships and demanded the country’s opening for trade. The incident set off a series of political changes in Japan. The ruling elites suddenly realized that the isolationist policy did nothing to secure the security of Japan. Under the threat of war, the foreign powers forced a series of unequal treaties on Japan, opening the country for trade and Christianity.

*The Charter Oath* (五箇条の御誓文) outlined the tenant of Meiji Restoraiton.

The humiliation of unequal treaties prompted the political elites to seek a way to reform the country and avoid full-fledged colonization. In the bid to boot an ineffective Tokugawa shogunate out of power, many elites rallied around the young Emperor Meiji. Unable to reform the bureaucracy, the last shogun, Tokugawa Yoshinobu, returned all political powers to the emperor and retired from public view. This event is known as the Meiji Restoration. Emperor Meiji decreed that “knowledge shall be sought throughout the world to strengthen the foundation of imperial rule.” In addition, the Meiji court also declares that “evil customs of the past shall be broken off and everything based upon the just laws of Nature.”

Emperor Meiji centralized political power by announcing the replacement of local thiefdom into 72 prefectures. The lands were no longer controlled by local noble families but emperor-appointed governors. The samurai class was abolished, but many found employment within the imperial bureaucracy. Taking notes from his European counterpart, a constitutional monarchy was established. He modernized the military by adopting Western organization and technology. The military-industrial base was developed. Japan developed into a formidable military power in just a few decades. Japan defeated Russia and China resoundingly in 1895 and 1905, respectively.

The first *torii* gate of the Meiji Shrine.

After Emperor Meiji’s passing in 1912, the parliament drafted a resolution to construct a shrine commemorating the Meiji Restoration. Although the emperor and the empress were buried outside of Kyoto, Tokyo’s Meiji Shrine is considered the main place of worship for the emperor’s spirits. Thanks to its central location and Emperor Maiji's reputation, it is also among the most visited Shinto shrines in the world. Shinoism is quite foreign to most of us. It is often considered a polytheistic religion in which supernatural spirits inhabit natural objects. The closest parallel I could think of would be the indigenous cosmology of many Native American tribes.

Visiting a Shinto Shrine is a cathartic experience for many visitors. Many important shrines are situated in lush forests or mountain foothills. An iris garden in Tokyo, which Emperor Meiji and Empress Shōken had been known to visit, was selected for the shrine. This area is one of the largest urban forests in Tokyo and is easily accessible by public transportation. Like most Shinto shrines, the entrance is marked by a giant torii gate (鳥居), symbolizing the transition from the secular to the divine realm.

These gates could technically be constructed from any material, but the most traditional ones are typically mass timber. It was impressive how pristine they could keep it in pristine conditions. I read somewhere that Shintos had no issue with renewal and reconstruction. I can’t help but wonder whether this torii gate is brand new. Sadly, one of the two pillars was fenced off recently because of vandalism. I hope that was not politically motivated. If you think about it, it is a miracle there was no graffiti. This is a great testament to Japan’s culture of respect and discipline.

The Meiji Jingu Museum by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma.

Not far from this first torii gate is the Meiji Jingu Museum, tucked away to the right side of the promenade. Although the building may resemble a traditional Japanese house from afar, it is thoroughly modern in architectural detailing. The architect within me immediately recognized this as a work of the Japanese architect Kengo Kuma. Kuma is probably the most celebrated living Japanese architect today. His works are versatile but also have a distinctive Japanese sensibility. Some of his noted works include the Japan National Stadium for the 2020 Tokyo Olympics and the Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Center.

Inaugurated in 2019, the Meiji Jingu Museum houses many important personal artifacts of Emperor Meiji and the Shinto rites practiced at the Meiji Shrine. Although the admission fee is steep, it would be a good introduction for any first-time visitor. Muerum’s core collections focus on objects associated with events of the Meiji Restoration, such as the imperial carriage the couple rode on the first day of constitution promulgation. Unfortunately, photography is not allowed inside the museum. I have read somewhere that Emperor Meiji did not enjoy being photographed, so I wonder if it has anything to do with the photography policy here.

Before long, we arrived at one of the temple complex's most interesting features: a giant wall of sake barrels. Called kazaridaru, these decorative barrels were donated from sake breweries across the country but don’t contain actual alcohol. Traditionally, sake is used in Shinto rites, similar to red wine in Catholicism. In Shinto mythology, the god of rainstorms, Susanoo-no-Mikoto, was banished from heaven for his misdeed. While on earth, he rescued a young maiden from an eight-headed dragon by intoxicating the beast with eight vats of sake. The god eventually slayed the beast with a sword hidden in one of the dragon’s tails. That sword is called Kusanagi no Tsurugi and is one of the three objects that made up the Imperial Regalia of Japan.

The graphics of these sake barrels were magnificent.

Sake is not only used for major rites but also for common rituals such as weddings. Many Japanese have decorative sake barrels with their shrine at home. Most Shinto shrines have longstanding relationships with local sake breweries. Because of the prestige of the Meiji Shrine, plenty of brewers are eager to supply their sake. The Meiji Shrine National Sake Brewers Association makes sure the shrine is well-stocked, and I am certain this is the advertisement money can’t buy. The graphics on these barrels are stunning; I am surprised there are quite a few contemporary-looking barrels with English-only labels.

Right across the wall of sake barrels is a rack of sixty oak wine barrels donated by wineries in Bourgogne, France. The donation was first installed in 2006 and symbolized the Franco-Japanese friendship. A handy plaque nearby provides the context of French wine here. Central to Emperor Meiji's domestic reform is “Japanese spirit and Western knowledge.” His reign introduced many Western cultural customs into Japan. He adopted the Western dress code at the imperial court, and the emperor developed a particular liking for Western food and beverages. Wine drinking quickly became the drink of choice among the elites.

We came upon the second torii gate a few minutes from the wine and sake walls. This is the biggest wooden torii gate in the “Myoshin” style. The massive gate was a 1975 reconstruction of a 1920 original, which burned down during the United States Air Force's firebombing of Tokyo. The months-long air raid destroyed 90% of Tokyo, including much of the Meiji Shrine. Luckily, much of the forest survived the fire. According to the plaque, the cypress wood used here came from Taiwan. As a Taiwanese national, I felt oddly “proud” of Taiwan’s contribution to our colonial masters. Taiwan’s contemporary infatuation with Japan is certainly fascinating.

Just a few steps further is the Inner Garden of the Meiji Shrine. The garden predated the shrine and was first conceived in the early 17th century. As mentioned earlier, Emperor Meiji and Empress Shōken favored the garden, prompting the government to select the site for the Meiji Shrine. It is not the most impressive or the largest Japanese garden in Tokyo and is often bypassed by foreign visitors. However, its unique connection to Meiji Shrine alone warrants the ¥500 entrance fee.

The first structure we encountered was Kakuun-tei, a tea house Emperor Meiji purpose-built for the empress. The building overlooks the beautiful Nan-Chi Pond. Legend has it that the school of carp here was the offspring of the ones released by Emperor Meiji himself. However, I doubt that custodial care for these carp existed during wartime. Empress Shōken’s favorite section would be the iris garden, which meandered through the northern part of the garden. After all, this iris garden made it the favorite garden for the royal couple.

The garden includes 1,500 iris plants and 150 species. According to online information, the iris should bloom from late May to late June. We were there in mid-May, so the iris field was rather underwhelming. For most Japanese, the real star attraction of this garden is Kiyomasa Well (清正井) at the northern tip of the garden. Lord Kiyomasa Kato, a celebrated hydraulic engineer of his day, excavated the well in the early Edo period. The water temperature remains constant at 59 degrees Fahrenheit year-round. With sixty liters of high-quality spring water flowing out per minute, this well is the water source of the iris garden to the south.

Around 2010, rumors started in Japan that Kiyomasa Well is a miracle wishing well with cosmic power. Some believe the spring holds mythical powers and is directly connected to Mount Fuji and Tokyo’s Imperial Palace. Rather than throwing coins at it, the public would take a photo of the well and set it as wallpaper on their smartphones for luck. Aided by a few celebrity endorsements, the rumor became a frenzy among the public. Visitors would line for more than an hour to be able to take a photo of the well. At the height of the frenzy, they even had to post a full-time police at the well.

After passing another impressive torii gate, we were finally ready for the main shrine. This was Joe’s first time visiting Shinto shrines, and we did our best to explain the worship etiquette. Fortunately, the Japanese were neither strict nor judgemental toward foreigners when it came to religious rituals. Like in Roman Catholicism, the first step was to purify oneself with water at Chōzu-ya. There is an appropriate way of washing hands, but I could never remember the right order. Unlike Catholic’s stoup, the trickling sound of the fountain basin is very soothing. In good Shinto fashion, the architecture and the dippers are imbued with organic qualities.

The sales point for Omamori, Japanese amulets.

Across from Chōzu-ya is a pavilion selling Omamori (御守/お守り), Japanese amulets. These good luck charms are typically made of a silk pouch with a prayer card. As talismans, people carry them around in bags or inside the car. While there are generic all-purpose amulets, most would choose ones with specific blessings or protection, such as traffic safety, smooth childbirth, or career advancement. Because this is in Asia, some of the most popular omamori are for getting good grades and into colleges of choice. Costing only a few hundred yens each, they also make perfect souvenirs. However, I don’t understand why photography is prohibited at Omamori stands.

At last, we arrived at the inner sanctum of the Meiji Shrine complex. While no Forbidden City or Taj Mahal exists, Meiji Shrine is still an architectural masterpiece. Its construction was conceived as a national project from the get-go. Japan's youth groups and civic associations contributed to the construction by donating labor and materials. The shrine includes materials from every Japanese prefecture and overseas colonies like Korea and Taiwan. Even though the original shrine was largely burned down during the air raid, I suspect most of us would not be able to tell.

Unlike at Christina churches and Buddhist temples, most worshippers do not enter the interior of Shinto shrines. Instead, they pray at the front steps of the main shrine. Like the cleansing ceremony, there is also a well-choreographed procedure that involves tossing coins, clapping, bowing, and making a wish. The whole procedure took only a minute or two. From the front, we could take a peek into the interior. A great time to visit is during the twice-daily rite (nikku-sai) at 8 am and 2 pm. If lucky, visitors may very well catch a traditional wedding or Omiyamairi, the Shinto version of baptism.

The main shrine with *Meoto Kusu*, the giant twin camphor trees.

The vast courtyard is dominated by two massive camphor trees, one representing Emperor Meiji and the other Empress Shōken. Known as Meoto Kusu, they survived the ravage of war. Reflecting the imperial couple, the pair of trees has since become a symbol of happiness and long-lasting marriage. It is a popular place for those seeking a future spouse or ensuring a long-lasting marriage. By all accounts, the emperor and empress had a long and successful. Even though the empress could not bear a child for her husband, she played an important role in supporting her husband’s reformist agenda.

Today, Empress Shōken is most remembered for her patronage of the Japanese Red Cross. Imperial family’s patronage lent much legitimacy to the nascent organization. She served as the honorary president and was active in day-to-day administration. Under her leadership, Japan had the world’s largest Red Cross organization. Her charitable became well-known during the first Russo-Japanese War. The organization cared for the wounded of both Japanese and Russian armed forces. According to contemporary sources, the success of the Japanese Red Cross prompted the American government to fund the American Red Cross.

Even today, the Empress of Japan remains the honorary president of the Japanese Red Cross. To celebrate Empress Shōken’s contributions, a fund was set up in her name for international humanitarian activities. At the main shrine, there is a donation box from the Empress Shōken Fund for the victims of the 2024 Noto earthquake. It was great that the Meiji Shrine continued to elevate the stature of the Red Cross organization even today.

Under one of the camphor trees is a rack for Ema (絵馬), the wooden votive tablets on which worshippers could write prayers or messages of gratitude. Translated as “picture of a horse,” Ema traces its roots back to when people offered physical horses to the shine as tribute. Over time, the horses were substituted by just a picture of the horse, which eventually evolved into the wooden tablet. These tablets were collected and offered to the gods in the daily rites and then burned in ritual fire.

For only 500 years, everyone from different faiths could get their own Ema. It was a lot of fun to see the messages left by the wellwishers. It is also a great way to survey the visitor demographic. If the messages from these Ema were representative, it would be shocking how many Taiwanese visitors there are. One of my favorites is a votive plate written by a child in Taiwanese zhuyin: “I wish I could visit Disneyland Japan every day.” On the same tablet, the parent wrote: “Wish everyone in the family healthy and safe. Our kid will grow up and make good money.” People of different ages certainly have different life goals.

I suspect the Meiji Shrine may only be a pleasant Shinto shrine for most foreign visitors to Tokyo. But for many of us growing up in East Asia, Emperor Meiji is a transitional figure who catapulted Japan into a global power. As a pupil in Taiwan, I learned a great deal about the tumultuous modern history of East Asia. With Western powers knocking on the doors, how Chinese and Japanese emperors responded to external threats changed the course of history. Both nations attempted to modernize themselves but through diverging paths.

China’s modernization drive relied on copying Western technology in military warfare. On the other hand, Japan's modernization was focused on establishing Western-style institutions, such as constitutional monarchy and universities focusing on science and foreign languages. Japan embarked on a remarkable journey of rapid Westernization and industrialization. Japan defeated China in the first Sin-Japanese War in 1895, two decades after the Meiji Restoration. The result was a verdict on these two different paths toward modernization, which set Japan on the path of imperial dominance in Asia.

Meiji Shrine is popular with both locals and foreign visitors alike.

As a Taiwanese, I am keenly aware of the evil committed by the Empire of Japan in Taiwan and throughout Asia. On the other hand, Japanese colonialism established many social and political institutions in Taiwan and Korea. Many experts attribute Japan and Taiwan’s post-war economic miracles to the success of the institutions Japan established. In many regards, Emperor Meiji was the most consequential leader in Asia; his legacy lived on in Japan and throughout Asia. The Meiji Shrine is a tribute to modern Japan.

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