Misery at The Blue Hole of Sinai

After our spectacular excursion to White Canyon and Colored Canyon, we were excited to see what Dahab had to offer. Based on all the research, the most popular activities around are diving and snorkeling. Unbeknownst to most Americans, the Red Sea is a popular diving destination. Dahab is one of the most notable places to dive in the Middle East. Generally, I am not a fan of the beach on my vacation, but I am curious to see what is so special about this place. After all, we often don’t think of Egypt as a beach destination. While most visitors choose to get on a Nile cruise, we would go underwater in the Red Sea.

Blue Lagoon may be beautiful, but the tour we took was awful.

While visiting Dahab’s best diving sites independently is possible, signing up for a guided excursion seemed worthwhile to maximize our day. As it turned out, most guided trips are designed for those traveling from the nearby resort town of Sharm El-Sheikh, so I signed up for one of the few tours leaving from Dahab on GetYourGuide.com. This fully guided tour has excellent reviews and would take us to some of Dahab’s best spots: Blue Hole, Ras Abu Galum Reserve, and Blue Lagoon. For about 50 USD a person, this seemed ideal for spending our last full day in Dahab.

The evening prior, I got a message from the tour operator saying they would pick us up at the hotel’s front gate at eight o’clock. We made the point to get up early in the morning and arrive at the gate right on time. After waiting forty minutes, I called the tour operator, who assured us the driver was only ten minutes away. The driver ended up showing up another half an hour later. When I asked the driver about the delay, he said he only got a call about this pickup ten minutes ago and had no idea what “tour” we were supposed to be on. It was not an auspicious start for the day.

A few minutes into the drive, the driver asked us whether we had our passports and a copy ready to enter the national park. Luckily, I researched enough to know we would need our passports, but neither the booking platform nor the tour operators told us we would need a photocopy. When I told him we were not told about the requirements, he grunted and told us how we could be unprepared. He pulled into a local stationary store to make passport copies for us. I got a feeling we were in for a lot of unpleasant surprises.

Blue Hole

Our first stop was Blue Hole, located within the Ras Abu Gallum Natural Reserve. We were asked to pay a 10 USD park entree fee to enter the park. I refused, as the booking listing clearly stated that everything was included in this tour, including all equipment, permits, lunch, and drinks. I had to text the tour operator on WhatsApp to complain. Weird enough, we were eventually let through without anyone paying our entrance fees after my complaints. This “mandatory fee” seems negotiable and a tourist scam.

A few minutes later, we were dropped off at a random restaurant in a commercial stretch of a beach. The restaurant manager told us to drop our bags at one of the booths and asked whether we wanted a drink or two. We had no idea where and when the rest of our tour group showed up. When we inquired about the tour schedule, he asked us to relax. Objectively speaking, this was not the nicest or the most relaxing place to enjoy the seaside ambiance. The tattered cushioned seating was rather gross.

What made Blue Hole famous? It is a submarine sinkhole with a maximum depth of over three hundred feet. An underwater tunnel descends about sixty feet and is described as an underwater cathedral. Because the sinkhole is located just a couple of feet offshore and has minimal current, it has become a popular spot for freedivers worldwide. It is also reportedly one of the world's most affordable dive sights, with a diving package costing as little as €30 per person. There are dive centers throughout Dahab, including at many hotels and resorts.

Although Sharm El-Sheikh received the most visitors, it was built by Israelis. Dahab, on the other hand, was a Bedouin village. Dahab’s diving industry is relatively new. Until a few decades ago, the locals avoided the Blue Hole, which they considered an inauspicious portal. It was not until the Israeli occupation that there was any effort to develop a thriving tourism sector focused on diving. When I spoke with some local Bedouins, they sometimes referred to the diving industry as the only positive legacy from the Israeli period.

Unfortunately, this affordable dive sight turned out to be one of the most dangerous in the world. The submarine tunnel trapped many divers throughout the decades, with the exact number of fatalities disputed. Most estimates place the figure as high as eight to ten per year, but others say the number is significantly higher. Many attribute the danger of the Blue Hole to its accessibility and deceptively calm water at this particular spot. Many divers underestimated the length of the dive and often ran out of oxygen.

The memorial plaques commemorate those divers who died here.

About two dozen plaques are framed into the rock face at the end of the main vehicular road. They are dedicated to the lives lost here. Among those memorialized here, many were from Eastern Europe, such as Poland, Russia, and Ukraine. Among them, the most famous death was Yuri Lipski from Russia. The 22-year-old diving instructor fell into an uncontrolled descent and suffered nitrogen narcosis. What made his death particularly infamous was the fact he carried a video recorder with him, which inadvertently documented his final moment on the sea floor. These memorial plaques are an effective reminder to all divers to take this place seriously.

Since neither Brian nor I had a diving certificate, we were more than happy to snorkel around the edge of the Blue Hole. After hanging around the restaurant for half an hour, the guy finally told us it was time to go snorkeling. When we tried to pick out the snorkeling equipment in the back room, the staff told us only a snorkel mask was included and that we had to pay extra for the life jacket. Again, I refused to pay extra, especially for essential safety gear like life jackets. Not surprisingly, they also wanted to charge extra for diving fins.

Everyone in the restaurant was corralled into a group of about thirty, mostly Egyptians. We were the only non-Arabic speakers in the group. The guide did speak passable English, but all the instructions were in Arabic. It was a short walk to the snorkeling’s start point. From my observation, nearly half of our group was not entirely comfortable with swimming. Thanksfully, the snorkeling guide calmed their nerves and got everyone in the water in relatively short order. The reef runs parallel to the shore and provides much reassurance, even for non-swimmers.

Once in the water, I was astounded by the clarity and relative health of the local coral reef ecosystem. Granted, this was only my third time snorkeling, and I can’t say how Blue Hole ranks among the world’s great snorkeling destinations. However, Blue Hole is far superior to our snorkeling experience in Oman a few years ago. The bottomless sinkhole added a sense of mystery and terror. The snorkel followed the sinkhole's parameters, and it took us about half an hour to make our way through it.

Unfortunately, we did not bring any waterproof phone cases, so we did not get footage or photos of our experience. I was so glad to see many iconic species, such as the clownfish. After observing how many visitors mistakenly stepped on the coral reef, I would not be surprised if more corals were damaged in the coming years. With sea temperatures at an all-time high this year, coral bleaching may not be too far in the future. We should all be mindful of how our travel contributes to warming climate and higher sea levels.

Ras Abu Galum Reserve

After a quick rest at the restaurant, the group departed for the next stop: the Ras Abu Galum Reserve. Before heading out, we were told we would need to pay for our drinks. Once again, I had to dispute the charge as the drinks should also be included in the tour package. After some back and forth, we decided it was not worthwhile to argue with him, and it ruined our day. The nickel-and-dime approach of this supposed “tour package” was unbelievable; we only hoped this would be our “last surprise” for the day. The amount requested may be small, but it was the principal that mattered.

The most convenient access to the next stop is a ten-minute boat ride. Alternatively, one can take an unpaved trail parallel to the shore on foot or by camel. Despite its popularity, the boat service was very disorganized. It was hard for me to figure out whether there was any system for boarding. Everyone crowded around the tiny boat dock, and we waited a few minutes for our turn. These boats were small and pretty crowded. Each boat carries almost two dozen passengers, and It felt a little unsafe the moment we boarded.

Our boat's motor blew out a few minutes into the boat ride. Waster was very choppy, and we were left in a drift for a while before another empty vessel came to the rescue. Just when we thought it was smooth sailing, the water became so choppy that our boat slammed hard against the water's surface. For a moment, we thought we might capsize. All of a sudden, one big wave tossed the boat so violently that a girl in our group was knocked unconscious briefly. She banged her head into the side of the boat and started to bleed incessantly. There was blood everywhere. Everybody except the boat operator was super worried. This was officially the worst day tour we ever had. Brian told me he was getting seasick and stressed.

Thanksfully, she slowly recovered toward the end of the ride but remained dazed. Like us, she concluded it was probably best to stick it out, given how far we had traveled. I later learned that the wave action in this direction was particularly rough. Many locals suggest hiking the trail in this direction and returning by boat at the end of the day. With enough time, that is probably a preferable way to explore this area and the best way to take in the beautiful scenery.

There was quite a bit of chaos upon disembarkment. No one seemed to know what was happening, and there was a lot of yelling. By that point, Brian and I had accepted this tour was a “shit show” and a waste of money. We should have done this excursion on our own. However, the inner blogger within me was eager to discover how bad the rest of the tour could get. Eventually, we were ushered onto the back of a pickup truck to take us to the snorkeling spot. The ride was unsafe but kind of fun. I like to make the best out of a horrible tour.

After a few minutes, we were dropped off at one of the numerous beachside bungalows. We had thirty minutes at this spot to snorkel or lounge around. This area appeared desolate and far from the hustle and bustle near the Blue Hole. The shacks only offer basic soft beverages in a very rustic setting. Curiously, only half the group, including me, got into the water. I suspect everyone was mentally exhausted by the boat ride and the chaotic vibe of this “tour” thus far. For some reason, it felt like a very long day already.

The girl managed to enjoy the rest of the tour.

This snorkeling spot may not be as vibrant and lively as Blue Hole, but it is still pretty spectacular. We could see Saudi Arabia's mountain range across the Gulf of Aqaba from the shore. Until recently, Saudi Arabia was closed to foreign tourists and still had an air of mystery. After the country’s recent liberalization and opening, I have been itching for a visit, but I don’t believe Brian is so keen on the idea for political reasons. Unfortunately, this may be as close as I would get to Saudia Arabia in the foreseeable future.

Blue Lagoon

We were again shepherded back on the pickup truck when the time was up. Our last stop, the Blue Lagoon, was quite a bit away, and the views, only the ways, were incredibly scenic. Blue Lagoon was the stop I looked the most forward to. The lagoon is sheltered from the waves and is very calm. It is an ideal place to take a leisurely dip after a stressful day. We were led to another beach hut with lounge areas and bare-bone beverage service. The space was slightly more enjoyable than the last stop, but it was still not nearly as nice as the private beach of our “fancy resort.”

I need to find out the Arabic text on these signs.

Of course, it was difficult not to compare this lagoon to the famous Blue Lagoon in Iceland. The lagoon is the perfect place to learn to swim. Its vibrant blue color is typical of Caribbean waters. The water was crystal clear and had a sandy bottom, making it perfect for leisurely swim. The lagoon was significantly larger than expected. That said, it still couldn’t hold the candle to the magic of the Icelandic counterpart. I suppose a place like this must be very unique for most Egyptians. Although the amenities were barebone, the relaxed ambiance here may be intoxicating if the amenity is slightly better.

Blue Lagoon is a great place to learn windsurfing.

Because of Blue Lagoon's calm water, it is also a popular spot for windsurfing. Along the shore, many outfitters cater to windsurfers of all levels. I imagine the cost of windsurfing would also be relatively low here. It reminded me of a poster I saw a few days ago at a gas station for Red Bull’s Winds of Sinai competition at Blue Lagoon from a few months prior. For me, the presence of a Red Bull event is a testament to Sinai’s tourism chop. Interestingly, the war in Gaza broke out on the third day of the five-day event. I could only imagine how bizarre of an experience knowing the missiles were raining down just across the northern border.

Although Blue Lagoon is not our favorite place, it is a popular spot for some travelers to spend a night there. Along the shore are numerous bungalows, where some visitors camp out for days to enjoy the solitude. However, one thing to note is that essential utilities, such as water and electricity, could be limited here. The rustic may not be for everyone, but it is reminiscent of Dahab’s Bedouin founding. Our guide at Saint Catherine, Solomon, spoke fondly of the Dahab’s early years as a seaside village. For most Bedouins like himself, Dahab is a better emblem of Sinai than Sharm El-Sheikh. Oddly enough, these tourist accommodations are now the “authentic” slice of old Dahab.

Many travelers chose to spend a night or two on the shore of Blue Lagoon.

Sadly, we visited the Blue Lagoon a little late in the day. Shortly after our arrival, the sun began dipping below the ridge line, and the turquoise-blue water did not last too long. If you visit Blue Hole independently, I recommend making this the first stop and spending most of your time here. The beachside shack we stayed at was by no means the nicest one. Call me weird, but I don’t find lounging around on dirty cushions and the constant swarm of flies. I don’t know why they don’t offer furniture with whippable surfaces. The lounges with open roof decks look particularly enticing and more upscale.

When we were ready to return to the Blue Hole, the lounge staff started bracketing the entrance to run the tab of all the drinks one had. Our guide told us a non-alcoholic drink was included when we arrived, but he did not mention that the drink was included because of the mandatory 5 USD per person cover charge. When I told the tour guide that this charge should be included in the tour cost, he just shrugged and told us to talk to the tour operator. Like before, nobody involved knew what was included in our package. With everybody waiting, we decided to pay the cover charge and get on with our life.

Some beach shacks are nicer than others, for sure.

Fortunately, the boat ride back to the Blue Hole was much smoother. After returning to land, we immediately hunted down the taxi driver to take us back to the hotel. Even though the tour description includes the “lunch on board,” it was already sunset when we returned to the restaurant. We decided not to bother with the “included lunch.” Based on our experience thus far, I would not be surprised if the restaurant would extort us by charging us extra for an unknown cover charge or a specialty drink. We doubt the food offerings would be that amazing anyway. This whole day felt like an expensive nightmare.

We were so ready to wrap up this “tour.”

This is by far the worst day tour we have ever taken. With no one knowing the specifics of our tour package, we were pretty much left to fend for ourselves. When I called the tour operator Egyptra earlier that morning about the late pickup, the guy on the phone was mainly concerned about me asking for a refund. On my way back to the hotel, I texted the operator about my displeasure about how the day turned out. My text never went through; it appeared they already had my contact blocked. It did not take long for us to leave a negative but honest review of this “tour.” Sure enough, the tour program disappeared from the website a few months later. Thanksfully, nobody had to be taken advantage of by this tour anymore.

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Blue Hole

Ras Abu Galum Reserve

Blue Lagoon

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