Oman - The Land of Thousand Forts — Tuljak! Travel Blog

I have been an avid listener of the Amateur Traveler podcast by Chris Christensen for a few years now. So when I listened to the episode he did on Oman, I paid particular attention to see what they had to say about my favorite travel destination to date. Like James Lipton's Inside the Actors Studio, Christensen's podcast always ends with the same questions for his guest. One of the questions is: "You know you are in [destination] when you....?" The episode guest, Claire Robinson, answered, "You know you are in Oman when you come across a fort every five minutes. She could not have come up with a better answer!

Nakahal Fort is one of the most dramatically situated forts in the sultanate.

During our two-week trip, we encountered a minimum of five to ten fortresses on an average day. After a few days, we gradually learned how to spot them in the landscape. From the mammoth Bahla Fort to a crumbling anonymous watchtower within a residential neighborhood, Oman's numerous fortifications remind us of this land's turbulent past. As a major trading power and a crossroad between Africa, the Middle East, and South Asia, Oman's history has not always been as peaceful as today's. Indeed, we only need to go back fifty years to the Dhofar Rebellion to witness the level of violence that grappled this nation.

With so many fortresses to offer, Oman should be a smorgasbord for kids and history enthusiasts alike. No matter how much you planned, you couldn't see them all in one trip. Although there are a couple of valuable resources, such as Oman Tripper, the amount of information is both scant and overwhelming at the same time. As is often the case, the most well-known may not be the most worthwhile of your time. Below are some of our favorite fortresses we visited on our trip:

Al Hazm Castle, Rustaq

For any first-time visitor to Oman, the best way to explore some of Oman's favorite fortresses is a day trip along the so-called "Rustaq Loop.” If you are used to the creature comfort of Muscat during your Oman visit, this is an easy day trip from Muscat. The loop laced between three well-maintained fortresses: Al Hazm, Rustaq, and Nakhal. The loop is a modern expressway and is very self-drive, even without needing a 4WD vehicle. The guidebook recommends a counter-clockwise loop to start with Nakhal and end the day at Al Hazm. At first glance, Al Hazm was a little bit of a letdown on the outside. It was considerably smaller than Rustaq Fort and less photogenic than Nakhal. But don't judge the book by its cover; this is our favorite castle in Oman!

Placed on the tentative list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, the fort was constructed in the early 18th century to be the seat of the Al Yarubi Dynasty in Oman and the actual residence of the ruling imam sultan. Its claim of fame is that this fortress has never been captured. The name Al Hazm means "the vanquishing one" in Arabic. What distinguishes this place is the renovated interiors, which are outfitted with an electronic audio guide system. Because the anatomy of Omani forts is somewhat standardized, the informative displays at Al Hazm are particularly helpful before embarking on your castle-hopping day.

Al Hazm is quite anonymous-looking at the first glance.

Al Hazm is also quite unique since it has a falaj system built underneath the castle, offering protection to its defense. It also boasts an elaborate prison system and the tomb of the founding imam. The courtyard hosts many artifacts, such as a massive cauldron and musical instruments. However, the architectural highlight must be the two massive cannon towers, each with elaborately carved wall relief. The secret connecting tunnels between the towers was a thrill. For us, what made a big impression was the friendly guard at the entry. His offer of qahwa and dates gave us the first glimpse of the legendary hospitality of the Omani people. We would have accepted his offer for dinner with his friends if it were not for our dinner reservation.

Al Rustaq Castle, Rustaq

The second stop of the Rustaq Loop, Rustaq Castle, is the most massive of the three forts and among the oldest in Oman. Built upon an earlier pre-Islamic fortification, the fort dominates the cityscape and is truly an impressive sight. The large complex is dominated by four towers connecting high walls. As we entered the forecourt, the complex appeared abandoned, and there was an eerily feeling of emptiness. There was no soul in sight for a massive and recently restored place. It took us a few minutes to track down the caretakers so we could pay the required admission fee. Of course, at 500 baisas (or $1.40) per person, the staff was not particularly quick to collect the money from us.

The interior itself was not of particular interest, unfortunately. Most rooms were barren despite their sparkling clean floor and smooth plaster walls. There was no map or information displayed as far as I could see. Given the repeating architectural details, such as in-wall book niches and wooden ceiling beams, all the rooms became identical to us after a while. However, our favorite interior space in an Omani castle must be the "date storage vault.” Dates are an important crop in Arabic culture, so much so that nearly all forts will have an enormous storage vault for the precious crop. Sacks of dates were piled high in the specially-designed storage room. The weight of the crop acts as a press to squeeze out the valuable syrup, which is drained through the cleverly designed channel in the ground. It was our favorite feature of Omani forts.

We really had the whole fortress all to ourselves.

Al Rustaq Fort also held a special place in Omani history as it was where the Al Bu Said dynasty, to which the current sultan belongs, plotted the expulsion of Persian influences from Oman and the eventual independence. It is not an accident that it is co-listed with the Al Hazm Castle as a tentative UNESCO World Heritage Site. Both castles came out of the multi-year restoration by the Ministry of Culture. Funny enough, the staff at Rustaq seemed to be ambivalent about the high-tech installation at Al Hazm and the outrageous admission at the famous Nizwa Fort. At the same time, he seemed to be very excited about the future of Al Rustaq Fort as a set for filming and corporate functions. I like just how much of an entrepreneur a public employee could be.

Al Nakhal Fort, Nakhal

The famous Rustaq Loop os Al Nakhal Fort's final stop is often referred to as the most photogenic fortress in all of Oman due to the dramatic outcropping. Quite a bit smaller in scale than Al Hazm and Al Rustaq, the Nakhal could easily be one's favorite fortress in Oman and outshine its counterpart along the Rustaq Loop. England’s Prince Charles visited the fortress during the last royal visit to the Sultanate. Like Al Rustaq Fort, its origin dates back to the pre-Islamic time. Nakhal held a particularly strategic position guarding the trade route between the ocean and Nizwa, the capital of Oman at the time. Nakhal today is your perfect oasis town at the foothill of the Al Hajar Mountains.

Due to its unique topography, Al Nakhal does not follow any rigid form or geometry. A big part of the charm of this place is how the architecture has been integrated into the massive boulder on which the fort is built. Because of its limited footprint, the fortress looks towering above the surrounding landscape. The lower level consists of the data storage, prison, and mosque. The middle level contains the formal reception room of the local governor back in the day and the residential quarter for women. The upper, breezier level was reserved for men, of course.

How could get so tanned in just a few days in Oman?

Though it does not have an audio guide system, many rooms were wonderfully fitted with period furniture and decorations. We could easily see why this is the favorite fortress for many. It is perfect for your Instagram post and a quiet oasis where you could survey the surrounding date farm, mountain, and the Sea of Oman. Though we didn't spend time in the village of Nakhal itself, the village also boasts a popular hot spring, Al Thowarah. We wish we had visited, especially since you could get a free fish pedicure in the adjacent pool.

Nizwa Fort, Nizwa

This is the granddaddy of all fortresses in Oman in terms of its popularity and significance. As the most important city in Oman's interior, Nizwa is also one of the oldest continuously occupied settlements in the country today. The city has been the crossroad of trade routes between Muscat and the interior and southward to the Dhofar region to the south. Extending your Omani itinerary beyond Muscat, you will probably spend a night or two in Nizwa. But despite its size and importance, central Nizwa seems surprisingly low-key and authentic. And there is no mistake that Nizwa Fort is the show's star.

Words could not describe how enormous the central tower is.

What also makes Nizwa Fort stand out to us is its urban surroundings. Unlike other forts we visited, it was difficult to make out the shape or extent of the castle. The architecture blended seamlessly with the adjacent mosque and souq. The narrow streets only accentuate the enormous scale of the central circular tower. Constructed in the middle of the 17th century by the imam who expelled the Portuguese colonists, the fort has always been the administrative center of the ruling imams in the region. It was said that the Imam Sultan bin Saif Al Ya’rubi invested much of the spoil from the war from the Portuguese toward the construction of the fort. The construction took 12 years and was designed with the advent of European military might in mind. Ironically, Portugal was more interested in setting up trading posts along the coast than invading inland cities like Nizwa.

Although never attacked by the Portuguese, Nizwa Fort witnessed plenty of violence in its history. Designed at the dawn of the gunpowder age, Nizwa Fort features some of the most impressive defensive architecture in the Middle East, such as pitfalls, honey traps, and gun-shooting windows. With 24 cannons around the top of the tower and another 480 gun ports throughout, it was a formidable military stronghold. The central tower was constructed of a thick wall to withstand the bombardment of cannon. At 36 meters in diameter and 30 meters tall, the central tower extended 30 meters further down to absorb the shock of artillery attacks. During its heyday, the moat surrounds the fortress and is accessible by a drawbridge.

Ironically, one of the most devastating assaults on the fortress came in the 1950s during the Jebel Akhdar War between the Imamate of Oman and the Sultanate of Oman. Being the capital of the Imamate, Nizwa was heavily bombarded by the British Royal Air Force at the request of Sultan Taimur, the father of Sultan Qaboos. Around Nizwa and the surrounding areas, we often saw the destruction of the Jebel Akhdar War. Places such as the ruined town of Tanuf stood as a testament to this uncomfortable chapter of Omani history.

The thrill of our visit was the staircase leading to the tower's top. Looking at the grand exterior, you might expect a grand staircase or military-size ramp like the one in Copenhagen's Rundetaarn. Instead, the tower is only accessible through a dark, narrow staircase, just enough for two soldiers to pass by. The staircase incorporates four blind turns to confuse the incoming soldiers. Along the way, a series of murder holes and double traps await. Many of the wooden treads would have been removed, prompting unsuspecting invaders to tumble, in total darkness, into very certain death. The architectural setup was magnificent. The long and narrow staircase also created a great contrast with the enormous platform at the top of the tower. I was not prepared for just how magnificent and tranquil the place is.

The immense central courtyard of the main tower.

With a sunny blue sky, it was such a pleasant lounge space in the carpeted area. Ascending the gently curved staircase, we reached the parapet. The view was spectacular. From the beautiful minaret and dome of Al Qala'a Mosque to the surrounding date palm grove and mountain range, we can see why Clare Robinson, whom I refer to at the beginning of this long post, rates it as her favorite view in all of Oman. Well, it is a great view, but I would not necessarily call it the best view of Oman. I wrote a separate post on my five favorite views of Oman.

On the ground floor of the fortress is a small museum with many archaeological artifacts, maps, and architectural models. One of our favorite memories in Oman occurred in the courtyard of Nizwa Fort. Exiting the small museum, we saw a performance by a chorus of Omani men in full regalia, including Khanjar (the ceremonial dagger and the national symbol of Oman). As they were performing their singing, we saw two Japanese tourists yelling "AS-SALAM ALAKOM" as they raced toward the men. With their camera in hand, they are the most enthusiastic tourists we have ever seen. The emotional "outburst" was atypical for a Japanese. We love it!

The liver performance of traditional dance and singing.

At 5 OMR, approximately $13 USD per adult, admission to Nizwa Fort was about ten times more than other forts in Oman. I then remembered that the staff at Al Rustaq Fort mentioned how disgusted common Omanis felt about the stiff entry fees at Nizwa. According to him, the steep hike in admission took place after the Ministry of Culture outsourced the restoration and management of the Nizwa Fort to a private hospitality group. Well, that would have explained the live music performance, curated museum, and the presence of a gift shop or cafe. At the same time, I share the ambivalence about this private management of national heritage. These amenities are nice, but I wonder how little of the income will be shared with the nation's culture. Nizwa Fort may be magnificent, but it is not quite our favorite.

Jabreen Castle, Bahala

If Al Nakhal Fort is the most photogenic in Oman, Jabreen Castle is often described as the most exquisite in the Sultanate. Located 30 minutes from central Nizwa, Jabreen is the second most popular castle after Nizwa. Constructed by the succeeding imam sultan who built Nizwa Fort, Jabreen Castle was built in peace and prosperity. As a result, it functions more like a proper palace in the form of a defensive castle. That certainly explains the seemingly defenseless position on a relatively flat plain. However, it was used more as an administrative center in its heyday.

Arguably the most beautiful courtyard among all the Omani forts.

You might ask why Jabreen Castle is so popular. Well, it has the most beautifully restored interiors among all the fortresses in Oman. As a former working palace, the castle has three stories, two defensive towers, and numerous reception rooms and bedrooms. The most noted rooms are a library, madrasa (school for religious scholars), and a law court. Interestingly, there was a special half-length door for which an accused found guilty must crawl out as a sign of penance and sorrow. While that might be inappropriate by modern standards, I nevertheless think it is cool that architecture is a tool within the penal system.

Each room is richly decorated with fine plaster decorations in calligraphy or geometric patterns and finely detailed windows and railings. The most celebrated room in the castle would be the Sun and Moon Hall, the formal reception room (or majlis in Arabic) of the ruling imam sultan. The pattern is believed to be "God's Eyes," which watch over all the visitors. There are three types of ceilings: barrel-vaulted, vaulted, and simple post and lintel. The surviving painting on the ceiling gave us a glimpse of the splendor of the fort's glory days. It helps us envision all the barren rooms we saw in the previous castles. The staircase leading to Imam's residential quarter was particularly amazing.

Located in the middle of an open plain, Jabreen Castle was built as a pleasure palace initially.

Jabreen Castle also has a somewhat decent audioguide system for all visitors. Given the splendid interior, by the standard of Omani, it is easy to spend at least an hour or two here. Those who have been to Morocco or southern Spain might recognize many familiar motifs. Sadly, the original patron of the fort, Imam Bil’arab bin Sultan, did not enjoy a happy end. Toward the end of his reign, he engaged in a bitter political struggle with his brother, Saif bin Sultan. According to the legend, when the brother's army approached, he prayed for a peaceful death instead of a violent overthrow. Sure enough, he passed away immediately inside of his beloved castle. You will be able to pay respect to the imam sultan at his tomb inside the castle.

Bahala Fort, Bahala

Merely ten minutes away from Jabreen Castle, the main fortress of Bahala is the largest in Oman by a mile. Out of the forts we visited, only Bahala Fort could be described as a full-fledged garrison town. Constructed of mud-brick and stone, it is reminiscent of many European castles. As a medieval fortress, its genesis predated the age of gunpowder. The walls are much taller and thinner without absorbing the bombardment. Built as the capital of the Nabhani dynasty in the 12th century, Bhala rose to great prominence because of the lucrative frankincense trade from the Dhofar region.

Hiking up the Bahala Fort with not a soul in sight.

As usual, I always checked out the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites a country has to offer when designing my itinerary. I was surprised that only one fort made it onto the list. There must be something incredible about this place that is superior to all others. By coincidence, I just happened to place Bahala at the end of my fort-hopping trip. We were utterly disappointed after having been to all the other forts in this post. It neither has the restored interiors nor the dramatic architecture. Despite the UNESCO designation in 1987, Bahla Fort did not seem to receive many benefits that are typically afforded. A year after earning the designation, it was placed under the watch list due to severe water erosion.

It didn't take us long to get bored at the Bahla Fort. Upon entering the front gate, we were handed a simple map for wayfinding. Truthfully, there seems to be no specific space of interest for us. Everything (and I mean everything) seems so anonymous. There seems to be little preserved from the prior time. The fortress fell into serious disuse after the 19th century, and it lost additional authenticity after a controversial and haphazard reconstruction in 1995. The fanciful reconstruction also did not address the fundamental drainage that has put the site under threat.

However, the best part about the Bahla Fort is the vast emptiness. It seemed to be very much off the radar for most foreign visitors. In the beginning, we were very systematic in wanting to explore every single nook and cranny of the complex. Just half an hour in, we became quite resigned that we may have seen it all. Unlike any other fortress we visited on this trip, not a single room was finished, not even a token display, exhibit, or light effect. But at the same time, the joy of our visit was to be alone in a massive medieval fortress. There was a melancholic feeling in this place. It was magnificent and sad at the same time.

For many visitors, the draw to Bahala Fort and the surrounding village might be its reputation for its paranormal activities and legends about Jinn, the pre-Islamic Arabic spirit. Many believed the tales of Jinn started in the 12th century by local rulers, who discouraged his subjects from venturing out of the walled city. The tales of Jinn are rarely discussed openly in Oman due to the Muslim custom. They are regarded as powerful spirits believed to have been born out of the smokeless fire.

The scale of Bahala Fort is impressive, particularly from afar.

Believe it or not, some believe Jinn built the Bahala Fort overnight. Others talk of the curse of death on anyone who dares to touch a tree under a spell growing in the fort. The paranormal phenomena were also said to impede the progress of conservation efforts two decades ago. Locals observed the reconstructed works seemed to fall down overnight regularly. Well, it was either the Jinn or shoddy conservation work. Which do you believe?

Khasab Fort, Khasab

Perhaps the smallest and the most anonymous fortress on the list, Khasab Fort, would most likely be on your itinerary list if you visit the Musandam Peninsula. Built by the Portuguese in the 17th century atop the much older ancient settlement. The fortress was the main defensive position over the Strait of Hormuz and was eventually taken by Omani forces. It was then tuned in the residence of the local wali and the municipal prison. Sadly, the reclaimed land in front, occupied by the LuLu Hypermarket and our resort, had greatly diminished its historical and natural setting. To compensate for it, perhaps, the fort was immaculately restored ten years ago and now houses a wonderful but small ethnographic museum of local culture and history.

Unfortunately, the land reclamation took away the original ambience of Khasab Fort.

The most interesting feature of the fortress is the large circular tower that offered the defense of last resort. Inside was an informative but somewhat dry exhibit of local geography and ecosystem. For us, the highlight of the fort was the replica of two structures indigenous to the Musandam Peninsula. The first was the Bait al-Qufl, the House of Locks. These semi-subterranean stone structures were used by local migratory farming families that store their valuables when they relocate to the coasts during the summer months.

These structures are typically constructed of enormous stone slabs; their walls can sometimes reach as much as one meter in thickness. In medieval times, they are often fortified with intricate locking mechanisms. Huge clay jars were placed inside to store essentials such as water, dates, and grains. To prevent theft, these jars were often bigger than the actual door to prevent them from being removed. Therefore, they were placed before the construction was finished.

The second indigenous structure on display was Arish, a summer mountain-dwelling elevated above ground to provide adequate ventilation and protection from local vermin. Supported by stone pillars, the structure was both secure and yet airy. It was remarkable how cool and breezy it was inside. I am surprised that contemporary residential buildings in Oman do not employ the same architectural strategy.

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Oman - The Land of Thousand Forts