Reykjavík, Aren’t You A Surprise?

In the middle of the North Atlantic, Iceland has long been a popular stopover point between North America and Europe. Pitched forward as a popular stopover destination, Reykjavík perhaps sees a much larger share of international visitors than most cities. With a population of just 131,000, it is one of the smallest capital cities in the world and is as populated as Midland, Texas. But considering Iceland’s current population of 370,000, Reykjavík is a thriving metropolis and the most dominant city by a long shot. While no one would ever call Reykjavík the highlight of their Icelandic trip, skipping the capital city would be a grave mistake.

Reykjavik Konsulat Hotel in downtown Reykjavík.

But I must admit that our first impression of the city was not particularly positive. We visited Iceland in the summer of 2021 amid the pandemic. The country was very successful in containing the virus's spread and had the world's highest vaccination rate. Like most island nations, Iceland takes its border control seriously and administers its own rapid test upon arrival at the airport. Based on the regulations at the time, we were supposed to quarantine until we received the test result by e-mail. Since there was no room for early check-in that morning, we spent four hours napping in our rental car waiting for check-in. On top of it all, the drizzle did not help lift our spirits.

As a whole, accommodation costs are generally quite reasonable in Scandinavia. However, we did not find that to be the case in Reykjavík. After much research, we decided to stay at the Skuggi Hotel by Keahotels at the edge of the downtown. Even though the hotel was only a block from Laugavegur, the city’s main pedestrian drag, the area appeared almost suburban. This section of town is laid on a grid and looks much like a provincial town in the Midwest. The traffic was light even during rush hour. Except for municipal buses, there were hardly any cars around. As people often say, the silence was deafening.

The Young City of Reykjavík

One thing that would surprise many visitors about Reykjavík (or Iceland) was how prevalent corrugated buildings are. Corrugated steel is typically the favored material for logistic warehouses or illegal structures in most countries. Reykjavík showed us how we all underestimate the possibility of this humble material. Brightly colored and cheery, they are a perfect substitution for wood cladding, which is prone to rot because of the frequent freeze and thaw cycle. The popularity of steel siding could also be attributed to the historical scarcity of timber on this barren island in the North Atlantic. Amazingly, the Icelanders have incorporated modern materials into their vernacular architecture. They look almost as beautiful as the original wooden ones and speak to the ingenuity of the locals.

Views of the Icelandic wilderness are ever present in Reykjavík.

Despite being undisputedly the most well-known city in the country internationally, much of central Reykjavík is not particularly old. Its founding could be traced back to the mid-18th century, which makes the city younger than colonial cities in America like Baltimore and Richmond. Looking around Reykjavík, we hardly see any old buildings on the street. But it is not to say that there was no traditional building; they adapted to modern materials gracefully.

The rise of Reykjavík was closely tied to the story of Iceland. As the only “city” in Iceland until modern times, Reykjavík was instrumental in forming Icelandic Nationalism. Back then, Iceland was under Danish rule. The island’s economy centered around fishing and wool. Reykjavík quickly became the center of these trades. With it, the city became a hotbed of union activities and calls for Icelandic autonomy. Iceland officially became the capital when the Althing, the ancient parliament, moved from here to Thingvellir. Although the parliament back then was only an advisory body to the Danish crown, its relocation to Reykjavík cemented the city as the center of Icelandic identity.

Stjórnarráðið, the home of the Icelandic cabinet and the prime minister’s office.

Laekjargata Street seems to be the dividing line between the town's modern and “historic” sections. Not only is it a major vehicular artery bifurcating through the city, but it is also the avenue where many key buildings of the Icelandic state are situated. Chief among them is Stjórnarráðið, the office of the Prime Minister of Iceland and the seat of the cabinet. The two-story building resembles a basic schoolhouse. Its diminutive relative to its international importance reflects Iceland’s down-to-earth approach to fame and power. Unfortunately, touring was out of the question because of the size of the building and the fact that it remains a working office.

Reykjavik Junior College is one of the oldest institutions in Iceland.

A couple of blocks away from the prime minister’s office is a larger building that looks like a blown-up version of Stjórnarráðið. This handsome building is home to Reykjavik Junior College, one of the country's oldest academic institutions. The institution traced its founding at Skálholt in 1056 and was responsible for educating most of the country’s prime ministers. The building is also significant because it housed the Icelandic parliament when it was first relocated here from Thingvellir.

Today's parliament is housed in its building a few minutes away on Austurvöllur, the city’s main square. It is probably the one corner of the city that has the greatest resemblance to a typical European capital. Lined with trees and stately buildings, the square was a convivial scheme during our visit. Like their Nordic cousins, Islanders used their “warm” summer days to the fullest extent. The outdoor seating of cafes and restaurants was bursting with people. It turned out that this particular day of our visit coincided with the day the gathering restriction was lifted. Naturally, people were overjoyed and eager to celebrate their newfound freedom.

The atmosphere around Austurvöllur is convivial and decidedly European.

Given that it is technically considered Iceland's political and religious center, Austurvöllur is the place Islanders come to demonstrate for or against the big political issues of the day. Among the most infamous protests in history were against military build-up and the 2008 Icenaldic financial crisis. In both cases, things went out of control, and violent clashes broke out with the police. Considering how calm and collected Islanders usually are, people must be really ticked off to resort to violence. In the 1949 protest, citizens attempted to storm the parliament to prevent the ratification of NATO membership. I suppose political violence is more widespread than we all imagine. Fortunately, the building of Althing is constructed with solid dolerite and looks more like a mighty fortress than a temple of democracy.

Dómkirkjan is the cathedral of Reykjavík and the mother church of the Church of Iceland.

Next to the parliament building is Dómkirkjan, the main cathedral of Reykjavík and the mother church of the Evangelical Lutheran Church of Iceland. Although church membership has been dropping precipitously across Northern Europe, Iceland’s church remains reasonably robust because of its close association with Icelandic folklore and traditions. In the United States, people would be horrified by the marriage between the state and the church. But here in Iceland, Dómkirkjan is where parliament opens its session and the country’s new presidents are inaugurated. The physical proximity between the state and church is both symbolic and practical.

Tjörnin Lake is definitely one of the most picturesque corners of the city.

I think the city's most charming section by far would be the immediate area surrounding Tjörnin Lake. Ironically, this corner of the city brings citizens closest to the water. The lake is known as a favored spot for migratory birds among the citizens. The lake has been a popular spot for bird feeding; it earned the nickname “the biggest bread soup in the world.” For me, the highlight of this picturesque spot is a lifesize statue of a man enveloped by a boulder. Entitled “Monument to the Unknown Bureaucrat,” the sculpture is both a tribute and satire of the role of government bureaucrats in a liberal democracy. It is among my favorite memorials in Iceland.

Architectural Treasure of Reykjavík

While the traditional architecture of Iceland is quite humble, Reykjavík holds an impressive collection of modern and contemporary buildings. For a country of 350,000, Iceland punches above its weight regarding design. I was thoroughly impressed with the city’s plethora of top-quality modern buildings. One of the most peculiar about Icelandic architecture is its heating system. Just about every building was heated free of charge by a municipal steam network powered by renewable thermal sources. As a result, it would not be unusual to see people propping their windows wide open in the middle of winter to increase fresh air intake. Iceland might be the only country where building sustainability is not a thing.

Some of the most beautoful buildings around were constructed in the past ten years.

This is one epic vista down Frakkastígur Street.

Speaking of Reykjavík, the most prominent and beloved landmark has got to be the church of Hallgrímskirkja. Named after Icelandic poet Hallgrímur Pétursson, the church was built to become a symbol of national identity and sovereignty. At over 240 feet in height, it is the tallest church in Iceland and the second tallest building in the city. Even though it is still a “parish church,” ecclesiastically speaking, the Church of Iceland took pride in that the spire here is much taller than Landakotskirkja, the Roman Catholic cathedral on the other side of town.

The distinctive church is the work of Guðjón Samúelsson, who was distinguished as Iceland’s state architect. He was individually educated in architecture and was one of the most prolific designers of his time. Hallgrímskirkja is widely regarded as his most brilliant design and is said to be inspired by the basalt rock formation found across the island. After a week of traveling around the South Coast and seeing the actual basalt formation, we deeply appreciated the symbolic reference.

Dare I say this is the most beautiful organ of the modern age?

Stylistically, the church is sometimes classified as part of the Expressionist movement. Expressionism in architecture may not be well known, but it is among the most interesting epochs of Western architecture. Hallgrímskirkja's kindred spirit would be Grundtvig's Church in Copenhagen. To this day, Grundtvig’s Church remains one of my favorite churches I have ever visited. The similarity between the two is uncanny, and the two are contemporary to one another. For both churches, the interior follows the Gothic structural design and exudes a sense of serenity typical of Lutheran worship.

If I were to compare the two, I would say that I prefer the exterior of Hallgrímskirkja and the interior of Grundtvig's Church. Like the Danish church, the only decoration inside is the impressive pipe organs gleaming like fine art. I felt very privileged to have visited both of them. Given the popularity of Hallgrímskirkja with tourists, I think our visit to the Danish church was a far more serene and reflective experience. For anyone visiting Reykjavík, it might be worthwhile to check out the church’s official website to see whether an organ concert is scheduled during your visit.

The statue of Leifur Eiríksson, who was the first European in the Americas. The statue was a “gift” from the United States to commemorate 1000 year anniversary of Alþingi.

Of course, a visit to Hallgrímskirkja should not be complete without taking an elevator up to the observation platform at the top of the central bell tower. Costing ISK 1,200 per person, the tower offers a 360-degree panorama view of Reykjavík, which is absolutely spectacular. It is amazing to see how quickly the city ends and the wilderness begins. As “New Yorkers,” we were jealous of how close nature is even to the nation’s largest metropolis. But I could see how some Islanders may not see that as a plus. Beautiful views aside, my personal highlight was getting up and personal with the enormous wall clock of the bell tower.

The next beautiful building I would like to mention is the Reykjavík City Hall (Ráðhúsið). Designed by the Icelandic firm Studio Granda in 1987, the building is noted for its modern simplicity and grace. As an architect, I was particularly impressed by the hinged connection between the columns and the roof rafters. It is the same technique you expect to see in Renzo Piano's or Richard Rogers's works. But what makes the building unique is its relationship with the water: Tjörnin Lake. Most of the building seems to hoover about the water surface. In particular, I was particularly impressed with a staircase located at the edge of the reflective pool. The infinity edge around the staircase is unlike anything I have seen.

To round up my abridged architectural tour of Reykjavík, our final stop is the Harpa, the conference center/ national concert hall. The construction of this structure was highly ambitious for a small country like Iceland. In early 2000, there has been a building boom for opera house construction in the Nordic region. In particular, the Norwegian Opera and Ballet, inaugurated in 2008, received international acclaim. The building revitalized the Oslo waterfront and put the Norwegian capital on the international cultural map.

A state-of-the-art concert facility has long been a national aspiration for Iceland as early as the 1990s. Seeking to replicate Oslo's success, the Icelandic government planned to develop its waterfront with mixed development, with the concert hall being its centerpiece. The construction started in 2007 with much fanfare but was halted only a year later due to the default of Iceland’s commercial banks, which account for 90% of the country’s financial system. The 2008 financial and political crisis put all the capital projects into sharp focus. A grand concert hall suddenly looks like a symbol of reckless spending by the incumbent administration. After a year of pause, the new government decided the cost of abandoning the project would be higher than finishing it as planned.

Harpa was the only public-funded construction project in the country for a few years. The concert hall was officially inaugurated in the summer of 2011 and was hailed by the government as Iceland’s “rebirth” after the financial turmoil. However, I have read that for many Icelanders, the building still reminds them of the turmoil of that era. Looking back, Iceland probably recovered from the bankruptcy as well as anyone could have predicted. For unsuspecting visitors, the gleaming facade of Harpa looks like an architectural triumph.

The design and engineering of Harpa are breathtaking.

Like Hallgrímskirkja, the architects for Harpa also took inspiration from the country’s basalt formation but took it to the next level. The intricate facade is a periscope of geometry and shades, particularly dazzling on a sunny day. Even though the building was closed due to the pandemic, it is still as magnificent as the pictures we saw. The carefully arranged glazing reflects and refracts as we move through the perimeter. It is one of those buildings that no one could ever get tired of looking at. While the basalt rock is the main visual reference, I think the overlapping patterns and transparency are quite reminiscent of the wingtip of an insect!

Reykjavík For The Eccentric

As one of the most fashion-forward cities in Scandinavia, Reykjavík has plenty of avant-garde artworks and monuments. Among them, the most iconic is the Sun Voyager (Sólfar). Designed by Icelandic artist Jón Gunnar Árnason, the sculpture commemorates the bi-centennial of the founding of Reykjavík. Despite popular narrative, the sculpture does not depict a Viking longboat. Instead, it is a vessel for dreams and the future and a tribute to the sun. The stainless steel structure perfectly syntheses contemporary art with traditional folklore.

The *Sun Voyager* (*Sólfar*) by Jón Gunnar.

Blockbuster sites aside, Reykjavík’s real charm rests on the city’s quirkiness. About one or two buildings on each block are painted cheerful, bright colors. Although cities like Copenhagen are known for colorful facades, Icelandic cities tend to stick with muted colors. The bright colors feel like a rebellion against the prevailing conformity. A couple of houses are painted with colorful murals from head to toe. One of the most dramatic houses is the flagship store of Brauð & Co., the most famous bakery in Iceland. We recommend stopping here for one of the best cinnamon rolls I've ever had.

Sampling various baked goods at Brauð & Co. is a must for us.

Speaking of being eccentric, I must mention the roving comedy troupe we encountered along Laugavegur Street. The interactive performance was among the strangest things I have ever seen in public. We had a guy dressed like Waldo and an Asian woman in a rice paddy hat being wheeled around in a pram. Confused, we asked a shopkeeper exactly what was going on there. The guy shook his head and said: “This is Reykjavík, so nobody ever knows what is happening.” In conversations with locals, there is a sense that this is the “Portland of Europe.” Even though Iceland is known to be tolerant and progressive, Reykjavík wholeheartedly embraces the alternative styles.

Could somebody from Reykavik tell me what was going on here?

Being a little bit of an oddball, I have a strange hobby of spotting different embassies whenever I travel to a foreign capital. The presence of particular embassies is a great way to understand the region's geopolitical landscape. I particularly enjoyed seeing small countries or territories represented. For instance, I got a kick from seeing the Embassy of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta to the Republic of Malta. In Reykavik, I was excited to come across the Greenland Representation. There is something special about getting a selfie in front of Greenland's “de facto” embassy!

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Reykjavík, Aren’t You A Surprise?

The Young City of Reykjavík

Architectural Treasure of Reykjavík

Reykjavík For The Eccentric

Destination Profile - Iceland

The Golden Circle of Iceland