Story of Quebec Through Old Montreal

The first time I visited Montreal was with my parents in 2011. Honestly, I couldn’t say Montreal left the best impression on us. Because it was our visit to Quebec, I wrongly assumed the entire province was more like France than English Canada or the United States. Besides the Olympic Stadium and Mount Royal, the only part of the city I remembered was Old Montreal. It is the only part of the city that fits into my imagination of French Canada. The old quarters of Quebec City and Montreal are probably the most European places in North America. These historic centers may be the soul of French Canada, but they are not the most accurate representation of modern Canada.

I should have given Montreal a fair chance. Fast-forward to 2024. We spent three nights on this trip and explored many different parts of the city, but somehow, I found myself back in Old Montreal each day because of its historic ambiance. However, I no longer see Montreal as a European but a thoroughly North American city. In many ways, this visit reflects how I have evolved as a traveler. I learned not to let my initial disappointment get in the way of appreciating a place without prejudice. I can confidently say that Montreal is among our favorites in North America.

One of the most unexpected things that happened to us in Montreal was the free walking tour we took. Generally speaking, “free walking tours” were often led by inexperienced college-age kids and filled with made-up anecdotes and trivia. However, the tour by Free Montreal Tours was spectacular. Our tour guide, David, was knowledgeable in historical facts and very helpful in framing various landmarks in Old Montreal in the evolution of Quebec and Canada. This post is somewhat inspired by David’s tour, and I hope it is helpful for you to appreciate the nuanced beauty of Old Montreal.

Pointe-à-Callière Museum

The story of Montreal began in 1535 when French explorer Jacques Cartier made contact with the Indigenous Iroquoians. Cartier searched for a passage to Asia when he entered the Gulf of Saint Lawrence; he became the first European to map the Saint Lawrence River. According to contemporary accounts, more than a thousand Iroquoians were on the shore to greet Cartier and admire the alien vessel. He spent two days in their village as he could not proceed further upstream due to the river’s rapids. That explains why Montreal was a strategic spot in controlling the Saint Lawrence River.

Seven decades later, French explorer Samuel de Champlain established a small settlement here for the fur trade but constantly conflicted with the indigenous settlers. It was not until 1642 that a colony, Ville Marie, was formally established in pre-day Montreal. Like all early colonies, many colonists died in battles, illness, and malnutrition. In the first eight years, two-thirds of them perished. At the time, the people of Quebec City downstream considered Ville Marie a doomed project. Montreal was considered the western frontier of New France.

The original wooden fortress was replaced several times with a stone citadel and demolished by the British in 1823. Not surprisingly, very few traces of Ville Marie survive to this day. The best place to learn about Montreal's early history is perhaps the most avant-garde building in the city: Pointe-à-Callière Museum. Montreal’s prime museum of archaeology and history, Pointe-à-Callière, is situated at the exact spot where Montreal was founded. The post-modern museum building by Dan Hanganu is an architectural tribute to the Victorian-era Éperon Building that once stood here. It is actually among the most handsome postmodern buildings I have visited. It fits surprisingly well within the historic fabric of Old Montreal.

The excavated remains underneath the museum lobby.

The museum visit started with an 18-minute multimedia presentation of an abridged history of Montreal, entitled Yours Truly, Montreal. The predominant narrative is this city's confluence of different cultures, from the First Nations to the new wave of immigration in the 21st century. This museum is unique because the modern structure is constructed over the excavated remains of colonial Montreal. One level below the lobby is a labyrinth of archaeological remains of the Victorian era and the vestiges of a Catholic cemetery. Down another level are remnants of the colonial era, including the late 17th-century fortress and the old sewage tunnels.

For an archaeology museum with few blockbuster artifacts, Pointe-à-Callière Museum is top-notched.

After the accidental archaeological discovery in the 1980s, the site was designated as a national archaeological and historic site. To help preserve the historical heritage, the uncovered foundations were left in situ as part of the museum’s permanent exhibition. The museum was commissioned to celebrate Montreal’s 350th anniversary of its founding. It is the most visited museum in Quebec and a great place of refuge during inclement weather, which is not uncommon in Montreal. Considering it is an archaeology museum, I was surprised by how popular and crowded this place was during our visit.

What was unique about this museum was how the subterranean network of archaeological remains sprawled underground beyond the footprint of the main museum building—the tunnels and exhibition spaces spread across three detached buildings, including the 170-year-old Old Custom House. The curator did a fantastic job bringing various mundane architectural features and artifacts to life through multimedia and interactive presentations. The museum has received numerous awards in museography and exhibition design.

Among all the permanent exhibits, the most notable is the one dedicated to the Great Peace of Montréal of 1701. The negotiated peace ended decades of conflict between the French and the English-allied Iroquois League. The cessation of violence brought economic prosperity to both sides; the treaty reduced English influence in the Saint Lawrence Valley. It allowed New France to expand toward the Great Lake and founded the city of Detroit. For us Americans, it was too easy to overlook the history of New France.

It did not surprise me to learn that this museum received so many awards in museography and exhibition design.

As Montreal’s premier cultural institution, Pointe-à-Callière Museum hosts many temporary exhibits. Our visit coincides with a special exhibition on Mexico’s Olmec civilization. The artifacts on loan from the National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City were top-notch and worth a visit. Posters for the exhibit are all around Montreal, a testament to Pointe-à-Callière Museum’s cultural prowess.

Place Jacques-Cartier

While Montreal is proud of its French heritage, the city is both Québécois and Canadian. The locals may hate to admit it, but the British were integral to Montreal’s development. In the late 18th century, Europe was divided into two camps, with France and Britain on the opposite side of the conflict. Commonly known as the Seven Years' War, this conflict profoundly influenced the history of North America. It culminated with British history and the Treaty of Paris in 1763. France ceded its territories in North America to Britain. New France came under the British military administration as the new Province of Quebec.

The line for Jardin Nelson was enormous every evening.

The following year, the British parliament passed the Quebec Act of 1774 to reconcile the French system with the English one. The law allowed the use of French civil law for private affairs and granted the free exercise of Catholicism within the territory. They also granted the Catholic Church the right to continue collecting tithing from parishioners and amended the mention of Protestantism from the oath of allegiance to the English monarchs. It effectively permits the French-speaking population to participate in the political life of Quebec. It was a foundational law that established Quebec’s place within modern Canada.

Place Jacques-Cartier is perhaps the most charming square in Old Montreal.

From the British perspective, the Quebec Act was a pragmatic measure to appease the newly acquired colonies. However, the laws were highly unpopular for English-speaking settlers of the thirteen colonies. American colonists perceived the concession to French Catholics as a slap in the face. The act also ceded large territories in the Midwest, previously promised to American colonies, to Quebec. To add insult to injury, the same session of parliament issued punitive actions on the thirteen colonies. These measures, collectively known as the Intolerable Acts, included closing the Port of Boston and granting British officials immunity from prosecution in the colonies. The American colonies even cited the Quebec Act as one of the causes of the rebellion for independence.

The transition into a British colony was interesting. The merchant class was eager to ingratiate themselves with English authority. One such example was Nelson’s Column on Place Jacques-Cartier. About a dozen such monuments were erected throughout Britain and Ireland after Admiral Horatio Nelson's death. A hero of the British Empire, Nelson is most celebrated for his bravery in the Battle of Trafalgar against the combined French and Spanish navy. Although it was a decisive victory for the British, Nelson was mortally wounded in combat and died only shortly after. The news of his death generated a public outpouring of grief and prompted some to organize a committee to create a war monument.

The donation came from both French—and English-speaking Montrealers. To the surprise of many, Montreal, a French-speaking city, has the second-oldest Nelson’s Column in the world. However, the monument has never been universally beloved by many French-speaking residents. Glorifying a British admiral who fought against the French did not sit well with some. Because it is a symbol of imperial rules, those advocating for Quebec separatism targeted the monument. While the effort was unsuccessful, the original statue of Horatio Nelson has been moved to the museum for safekeeping. To counter the Nelson’s Column, the French-speaking citizens erected a statue of French Navy officer Jean Vauquelin in a nearby square to go toe to toe with Nelson.

Montreal City Hall is one of the largest Second Empire Style building in Canada.

Right next to the Nelson Columns is Montreal City Hall. A monumental French Second Empire-style building, it was built when the tension between English and French reached its height. This was a time when Montreal emphasized its “French-ness.” It is perhaps natural that the city hall is involved in one of Canada and France's most notorious diplomatic incidents. On July 24th, 1967, French President Charles de Gaulle visited Montreal to attend Expo 78. He took the opportunity to address the people of Quebec from the front balcony of the city hall. He ended the speech with "Vive Montréal ! Vive le Québec ! Vive le Québec libre !"

The last phrase, "Long live free Quebec,” implies that Ottawa unjustifiably ruled Quebec. It was a tacit endorsement of Quebec by a French president. It was a significant breach of diplomatic protocol on foreign soil. English Canada considered the speech an incitement of separatism. After the Canadian prime minister lodged an official diplomatic protest at the French Embassy, President de Gaulle canceled his visit to Ottawa and took a military plane home early. The future Prime Minister Pierre Trudeau mused perhaps he could return a favor in Brittany, a region of France with a separatist movement.

Opposite the city hall is Château Ramezay, a historic mansion now Qubebec’s largest house museum. Constructed in 1705, it was the residence of Claude de Ramezay, the colonial governor of Montreal. It has always been the most impressive residence in French colonial Montreal and continued to serve as the residence or office of the governor after British arrivals. It underwent many alterations over the centuries. Interestingly, they gradually added stereotypical “French” architectural elements such as decorative round towers and turrets. That was a testament to the tension between French Canada and English Canada.

The beautiful restored gardens of Château Ramezay.

Although we did not have the chance to visit the museum, a stroll through the restored garden in the back was a treat. It gives visitors a glimpse into the elite lifestyle of New France. Just like colonial New York, the city center could be surprisingly pastoral. However, the most exciting fact about this building was that it was the headquarters of the American Continental Army during the American War of Independence. For a brief period, General Montgomery captured and occupied Montreal in 1775. Benjamin Franklin even spent a night at Château Ramezay. Although Americans sought to rally Montrealers to the revolutionary causes, the locals eventually rebelled, prompting the American withdrawals.

Place d'Armes

Montreal’s most iconic civic place would undoubtedly be Place d'Armes. As the name suggests, this was where the citizens would gather to take up arms when the city was under attack. Montreal's second oldest public square was later used as a hay and wood market. A monument to King George III used to stand at the center. However, the statue was defaced after the signing of the Quebec Act and later torn down during the American occupation. Since 1895, a monument to Paul de Chomedey, the founder of Montreal, stands in the middle of the square. At its base are four historical figures representing Montreal’s early history, including the Iroquois chief.

While it is a magnificent urban square, the real intrigue of Place d’Armes is the cultural rivalry between English and French cultural identity. Facing southeast is the Notre-Dame Basilica of Montréal. Towering over the square, the basilica is a Gothic Revival masterpiece with a fortress-like appearance. Designed by Irish-American architect James O'Donnell, the church was intended to be seen throughout the city and remained the tallest church in North America for half a century. As it was built during the British colonial period, the building is considered an assertion of the French Catholic identity.

Although the archdiocese has moved the cathedral to a newer, bigger church near the central business district, Notre-Dame Basilica of Montréal remains Montreal's spiritual center. I was surprised that there was a CA$16.00 admission charge outside the scheduled daily mass. Even more surprisingly, the line for the tickets wrapped around the block. If the Wikipedia page is believed, Montreal’s Notre Dame received 11 million annual visitors, merely one million less than the more famous Notre Dame in Paris.

Although the standard admission ticket is already too pricey, tourists are clamoring to attend special light shows. For CA$35 a person, tourists could get tickets for a nightly 25-minute light and sound show called The Aura Experience. The show was very popular and would require an advanced reservation a few weeks ahead. While we did not get to experience it, it seemed pretty expensive. Having been to the enormous public light and sound show in Chartres for free, I could not fathom spending that much for a relatively short program.

The flamboyant Gothic interiors are quite impressive.

Despite its austere exterior, the interior decoration is exuberant. Every square inch of the interior is decorated in the Flamboyant Gothic style. The best equivalence I could think of is Paris’s Sainte-Chapelle, albeit without the enormous stained stained glass windows. Like Sainte-Chapelle, the ceiling is decorated with royal blue and French fleur-de-lis; it is unapologetically French. Unsurprisingly, there is also a statue of the young French heroine Joane of Arc. Considering how little natural light comes into the nave, the architectural light creates a mystical aura. The choir stall around the sanctuary is like a theatrical stage for transfiguration.

The stained glass may not be as impressive as its Parisian counterparts, but they are still worthy of attention as they tell the story of Montreal and the basilica’s construction. The Chapel of Sacred Heart behind the sanctuary was my favorite part of the building. Its centerpiece is an enormous altarpiece designed by sculptor Charles Daudelin. Contrasting to the gloomy mystery of the nave, this chapel was full of natural light and drama. A chapel of quiet contemplation, this is the perfect refuge from the hoard of tourists. Understandably, many newlyweds wished to get married here. However, only the rich and the powerful, such as Celine Dion and Justin Trudeau, could afford the exuberant fees.

Opposite the basilica on the square is a stately neoclassical building resembling the Pantheon. This stretch of Rue Saint-Jacques was the “Wall Street of Quebec.” All the prominent banks in Canada were represented along the street, making this one of Montreal’s most impressive streets. This imposing structure is the headquarters of the Bank of Montreal. Founded in 1817, it is the oldest bank in Canada. Despite its name, this venerated bank was established by English and Scottish Canadians. According to our guide, the bank represents the financial power of English Canada over Quebec. To add insult to injury, the Bank of Montreal moved its business operations to 1977 and only maintained its de jure headquarters here.

The headquarters of the Bank of Montreal.

To me, what encapsulates the French-English division is a pair of bronze statues located on two corners of the square. The work by Canadian artist Marc André J. Fortier is called The English Pug And The French Poodle, also commonly known as “The Snobs.” It satirized the long-standing rivalry between French Canada and English Canada. In one corner is an English gentleman holding an English pug, staring disgustingly at the French-aligned Notre Dame Basilica. At the other corner is a beret-clad French woman holding a French Poodle and looking up at the English-aligned Bank of Montreal building with disdain. Both individuals wear pointed noses to signify their cultural snobbiness.

While the two owners cannot stand each other, the English Pug and French Poodle lock eyes and are eager to embrace each other. The two dogs represent the modern Montrealers longing for the end of historical animosity in Quebec. It is a fun and poignant satire of contemporary Canada. Historically, the two groups occupied different parts of Montreal, with Saint Laurent Boulevard as the dividing line between the two groups. As a result, many new immigrants from the Chinese and Italians set up their neighborhoods along the boulevard, as it is the most undesirable stretch of the city.

Old Port of Montreal

Naturally, a tour of Old Montreal would not be complete without a walk through the city’s historic waterfront. Although Montreal thrived on the commerce the Saint Lawrence River brought, it presents one of its most significant vulnerabilities. Icebergs could easily impede the river flow because the ice would accumulate along the river, prompting severe flooding in Old Montreal. Pictures of the historic harbor ice shove were stunning; many ice slabs accumulated onshore are taller than many buildings along the waterfront. It was not until the construction of barrier islands and introducing an icebreaker fleet that the historical port was spared of the annual ravage.

Statue of Neptune, the allegorical representation of Saint Lawrence River, at the base of John Young Monument.

Since 1978, the port facility has been relocated further downstream to accommodate modern infrastructure. The historical harborfront has since been redeveloped for entertainment and public recreation. Some of the most popular attractions here include the Montreal Science Centre and Montreal Clock Tower. This also happened to be one of the rowdiest parts of Old Montreal. Among visitors, the top attractions are the Grande roue de Montréal, a grand Ferris wheel built to coincide with the 375th anniversary of the city’s founding. It is one of the two most popular places to get panoramic views of Old Montreal. However, our guide, David, recommended the newly inaugurated Port of Montreal Tower. The glass and steel modern observation tower is my kind of architecture, as it pays tribute to the port's industrial heritage.

The old port of Montreal is now transformed into a place of public recreation.

As much as I would like to take a look, we can’t stomach the CA$15 admission. However, I was tempted by the Tyrolienne MTL Zipline. Who wouldn’t want to zipline across one of the most historical harbors in North America? It would undoubtedly be more exciting than the slow-moving Ferris wheel. From the spot, we also have a beautiful view of Saint Helen’s Island, the site of Expo 67. Described as the coming out party of Montreal, this expo was the most successful world fair of the 20th century, a sharp contrast with the city’s summer Olympic games nine years later.

Among the best historical sites to appreciate Montreal’s seafaring heritage would be the Church of Our Lady of Good Help. Situated right on the waterfront, this unusual-looking church is one of the oldest churches in the city and home to the wooden icon of Our Lady of Good Help, brought from France by Saint Marguerite Bourgeoys. The church and the icon became a popular pilgrimage site for sailors arriving at the Old Port of Montreal. The sailors would attend mass here to give thanks for the safe voyage across the sea. Over the years, it has been called the “Sailor’s Church.”

In 1849, the Archbishop of Montreal bestowed a statue of Mary to serve as the “guiding Star of the Sea.” The massive statue now sits atop the church’s dome, greeting sailors as they arrive in port. Although the church is free to visit, the public could pay a nominal fee to climb up to the exterior observation deck on the dome. The upper story of the church also functions as a museum dedicated to the life of Saint Marguerite Bourgeoys, the first female saint of Canada and a significant player in the religious life of early Montreal.

Bonsecours Market was modeled after the Custom House in Dublin.

Just across the church is Bonsecours Market, once the city’s primary public market for over a century. Modeled after the Custom House of Dublin, the market was a physical showcase of Montreal’s commerce. It was designed to impress visiting merchants and was the largest building in the city at the time. The market housed merchant stalls and some of the most significant spaces for assembly outside churches. The market functioned as a de facto city hall for over two decades and hosted a session of the Legislative Assembly of the United Canada in 1849.

Above the market’s main entrance is the city’s coat of arms, which is quite interesting. It consists of England’s Saint George's Cross and symbols of four ethnicities contributing to the city’s early development: French (the fleur de lys), English (the Rose of Lancaster), Scottish (the thistle), and Irish (the shamrock). Our guide was keen to point out that Montreal had one of North America's largest Irish immigrant populations. It hosts the second oldest Saint Patrick’s Day parade (after New York’s). However, the celebration of Saint Patrick’s Day could be traced back to 1759. In 2017, the city added a symbol of white pine in the middle of the cross to recognize the role of Indigenous people in Montreal’s founding.

Bonsecours Market is one of Montreal’s most iconic buildings.

In the 1960s, the center of commerce shifted away from the old city. The wide availability of refrigeration and post-war prosperity meant fewer Montrealers had to shop for fresh produce daily. With suburbanization, the market declined and was shut down in 1963, which coincided with the period of urban renewal and highway construction. The government planned to demolish the market and the large swath of Old Montreal to accommodate a state-of-the-art highway viaduct. Thanks to the advocacy of city planner Sandy van Ginkel, such a plan never materialized. A year later, the entire neighborhood is designated as a historic district.

As we strolled along Rue de la Commune, it was easy to imagine the hustle and bustle of a port city in its heyday. Nowadays, it is a calming place to stroll and enjoy the architecture of 19th-century warehouses. It was mad to imagine an enormous expressway putting off Old Montreal from its waterfront. One only needs to look at cities like Springfield and Saint Louis to understand what an urban travesty that would be. Old Montreal should be a cautionary tale on the zeal of all of us for large-scale urban renewal and mega-infrastructure.

A chance encounter of the works of Taiwanese sculptor Ju Ming (朱銘), my father’s favorite artist.

Given Old Montreal's popularity today, it has plenty of souvenir shops and tourist-oriented eateries. It was all too easy to be enamored with over-the-top faux-Canadian decor. For the most part, everything along the old port area was overpriced. Its success as a tourist destination means few incentives for most Montrealers to visit. Without question, Old Montreal is a pleasant place to stroll and admire the historic ambiance. However, with a better appreciation of Montreal’s layered history, our visit to Old Montreal was much more meaningful.

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Story of Quebec Through Old Montreal

Pointe-à-Callière Museum

Place Jacques-Cartier

Place d'Armes

Old Port of Montreal

The Modern Montreal

Misery Along The Ring of Kerry