Svetitskhoveli - The Center of Georgian Orthodoxy
Every country has a soul, and every nation has a sacred place that helps define its place in history. Poland has Krakow’s Wawel Hill, and the United States has Independence Hall. To understand the psyche of a nation, places like these provided a window into the past. Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in Georgia is just such a place. Only a half-hour drive from central Tbilisi, the town of Mtskheta was the royal capital and the heart of the religious heart of Georgia. Mtskheta occupied a strategic location at the confluence of River Kura and River Aragvi. Although the capital was moved to Tbilisi in the sixth century for defensive purposes, the city of Mtskheta remains where all Georgian kings were coronated and buried. But perhaps more importantly, it is still the headquarters of the Georgian Orthodox Church today.
Miniature model of the cathedral.
This is one of the most touristy place in all of Georgia and a great place to score some typical souvenir.
Like almost all Georgian orthodox churches, it has a fortified fort around it.
Regarded as the holiest place in Georgia, Svetitskhoveli's claim of fame is due to its impressive holy relic that was believed to be buried beneath the structure: the shroud of Jesus at the time of the crucifixion. According to Georgian traditions, the shroud was purchased by a Jewish rabbi from Mtskheta named Elioz through a soldier present at the time of the crucifixion. Legend has it that Elioz's sister Sidonia died of ecstasy of joy while clutching the robe. Sidonia was then buried alongside the holy robe. Saint Nino then used the cedar tree that eventually sprung her grave to construct the first Christian church in Georgia.
Post-modern architecture of the tourism information center just across from the entry of the cathedral.
Tower at the western entrance to the territory.
In the fourth century, Saint Nino traveled from modern-day Turkey and brought Christianity to Georgia. Among her converts was the pagan king of Iberia, the ancient Georgian kingdom. Mirian III of Iberia became among the monarchs in the world to convert to Christianity. Just like his contemporary Emperor Constantine of the Roman Empire, Mirian prayed for the help of the Christian god at the time of need and soon established Christianity as the state religion. Georgia took pride in claiming to be the second Christian nation in the world, just a step after neighboring Armenia.
Austere but magnificent.
When Saint Nino ordered the cedar tree to be chopped down and used as the pillars for her church, one of the pillars was said to levitate in mid-air until her prayer brought it down. This legend was named Sveti-tskhoveli, a life-giving pillar in Georgian. It is further believed that the sap of the seventh magical column had magical healing powers. Like most ancient churches worldwide, Saint Nino's original church was replaced with a stone structure in the fifth century. The current structure was erected in the early 11th century but has been raided frequently throughout its history. From the Mongol, Perian, Arab, and imperial Russia to the Soviets, the national shrine has suffered much. For many Georgians, the cathedral's history reflects Georgia's turbulent history. Countless treasures and medieval frescos have been lost, yet it remains the emotive sacred place in the country. Despite its difficult history, the cathedral retains inscriptions of cultures with tombs in Arabic, Russian, Latin, and Farsi.
The scale of proportion of the cathedral really plays trick on your eyes.
Another UNESCO World Heritage Site crossed off my list!
Front facade with niches, window and various decorations.
At first glance, Svetitskhoveli Cathedral looks similar to any other Georgian cathedral. You cannot appreciate its immense scale until you see it in person. It is not as big as the Vatican or the Blue Mosque, but it dwarfs any other Georgian church except the Sameba in Tbilisi. But unlike Sameba, the simplicity and purity of Svetitskhoveli are retained despite its scale. The plain exterior may be dull, but don't let it deceive you of the interior's splendidness. Like most Orthodox churches, the interior is the highlight of Svetitskhoveli Cathedral.
Despite being whitewashed by the Russians in the 19th century, a section of the medieval mosaic has been restored to its former glory. Personally, I much enjoy the Orthodox form of worship. Their religious services seem far less intimidating and are more accommodating for casual visitors or pilgrims alike. During our visit, a priest was performing a service. The incense and the reverberating sounds of the worship certainly add to the atmospheric beauty of the cathedral.
Post-modern architecture of the tourism information center just across from the entry of the cathedral.
Iconostasis, a standard feature of all Orthodox churches.
The highlight of my visit to Svetitskhoveli is to come upon this small yet monumental sculpture of the stone church on the right side of the church. It is a replica of the original Chapel of Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, the holiest place in the Christian world. Even as a non-Christian, I have learned much about the Holy Sepulchre through my architecture education. The stone replica was constructed here in the 13th century to establish Svetitskhoveli as the second holiest church in Christendom. It is still considered one of the most accurate copies of the sacred shrine. It also denotes where the levitating pillars were placed beside the grave of Sidonia.
The 17th-century ciborium under which the robe of Jesus is said to have been buried.
Restored stucco of the central apse.
Jvari Monastery from afar.
Appropriately, Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and the neighboring Jvari Monastery have been inscribed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites since 1994. Regrettably, we did not make our way to visit the famed monastery. It is arguably among the most dramatically situated churches in the world. Due to Mtskheta's proximity to Tbilisi, most visitors seem to visit as a day trip or a quick stop to and from the capital. But as you may have realized, Mtskheta is a quaint and charming town. The cobblestone streets and restored architecture make it an ideal town for an overnight stay. Best of all, you could enjoy Svetitskhoveli all to yourself.
Mtskheta is also very well developed for the tourist industry... perhaps too much. Surrounding the cathedral is a newly constructed bazaar with touristy stalls selling everything from khinkali-shaped flasks to churchkhela. While it may seem off-putting at first glance, it is also reminiscent of the pilgrim-centric economy dating back to medieval times. For a quick and delicious lunch, we thoroughly enjoyed Salobie, a short five-minute drive away from Mtskheta. Popular with both tourists and locals, the eatery has some of the most delicious khinkali in the greater Tbilisi area.
