Tainan - The Original Capital of Taiwan

Unless you have been sequestered over the past six months, you may have heard that the Taiwan Strait may very well be the next flashpoint between the West and an authoritarian state. Perhaps for the first time in my life, some Americans seem genuinely interested in learning about the history of Taiwan. Because of the COVID pandemic and the 2022 Russian invasion of Ukraine, the international community suddenly realized that Taiwan is an indispensable member of the community of nations. Nowadays, the future of Taiwan is a topic of concern among global leaders. But as much as I relish Taiwan’s newfound prominence, the outlook for the island never seems so uncertain.

There are temples sprinkled among the narrow lanes of Tainan.

Underlying the tense situation today is the layered history of Taiwan. As I mentioned in my post on the National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall, the Chinese Civil War seems to set the premise of the political divide across the Taiwan Strait. However, it would be a disservice to overlook Taiwan’s history before the arrival of the Chinese Nationalist government of the Republic of China (ROC) in 1949. The history of this island is a story of immigration and colonization. Since the 17th century, the Netherlands, Spain, Ming China, Qing China, and the Japanese set up their rules here. They all left indelicate marks on Taiwan in one way or another.

Among all the cities in Taiwan, the southern city of Tainan is the best embodiment of the layered history of this island. This city of 1.8 million is not only the oldest city but also the capital of Taiwan until 1887. Even though Taipei has been the capital for more than 130 years, the residents of Tainan still pride themselves as keepers of traditions and national heritage. Tainan is perhaps the most visited city outside of Taipei, from century-old temples to rich culinary traditions. The city is particularly popular with foodies and Japanese visitors.

Considering the historical significance of Tainan, it is embarrassing that I have only been there once before this most recent trip. For various reasons, my family rarely traveled around the island when I was a kid. I found myself rather unfamiliar with many places in my own country. When planning my first trip back to Taiwan in over twelve years, I was initially attracted to Tainan’s traditional hospitality and temperate climate. It was not until after our visit that I truly appreciated the city’s layered history and how this place informs the contemporary Taiwanese identity.

The Dutch Tainan

Tainan first came into prominence after the arrival of the Dutch East Indies Company in the early 17th century. After repeated failed attempts to trade with imperial China, the Dutch waged a battle to seize Macau from the Portuguese and the Chinese-controlled Pescadores islands, both ending in defeat for the Dutch. Because of these setbacks, Taiwan became an obvious alternative for setting up a trading post in East Asia. At the time, there was no active political claim on the island. The island was mostly inhabited by the Formosan aboriginal tribes, Japanese pirates, and a scattering of Chinese settlers along the coast.

Like most colonial powers at the time, the foremost priority for the Dutch was the construction of a defensive fort. They picked a peninsula at the mouth of the river. Completed in 1634, Fort Zelandia (熱蘭遮城) was the administrative center of Dutch Formosa. With it, the Dutch East India Company became the first political entity to claim Taiwan as its territory officially. It is ironic that the government in Beijing nowadays often proclaims that Taiwan has been part of China since “ancient times.” Such an assertion is categorically false and yet so commonly uttered by the Chinese government.

Fort Zelandia exhibnits many of Dutch and Qing-era canons.

Located in today’s Anping District, Fort Zelandia (or Anping Fort as most Taiwanese would call it) is designated as a national historical monument. The fortification was a shell of its former glory. Standing atop the fortress, you might notice that this “seaside fortress” is now quite far inland. The bay that once surrounded the fortress was silted up over the century. With that, the fortress lost its strategic value and became mostly abandoned by the end of the century. Much of the fort we see today is a modern reconstruction, but sections of the original walls could still be located near the base. For those who care to look, the traces of Dutch Many of the original Dutch canons are still preserved on the ramparts.

Unfortunately, today, the fort is dominated by a modern observation tower. The white-colored wall and red roof tiles make it seem like an unwelcome transplant from Florida. It was clear that it was built before any regulations for historic conservation. From the top, visitors could enjoy wonderful views of the surroundings, including the shoreline nearby. A small on-site museum provides additional context to the Dutch-era fortress.

Fort Provintia with the Qing-era temple built on top.

Dutch colonialism typically focused on international trade. While there were attempts to Christianize the native population, the Dutch made little attempt to subjugate the native population. Their main concern was repeated raids by the native tribes on Chinese settlers. Through a series of campaigns and negotiations, the Dutch managed to “pacify” the native tribes and reduce the frequency of raids on Chinese settlers. Because of the Dutch protection, Tainan became increasingly urbanized.

Located inland is another major Dutch fortress: Fort Provintia, also known as Chikan Tower (赤嵌樓) today. After an uprising by Chinese settlers in 1653, the Dutch began constructing a new fortress and city wall fortifications out of bamboo groves. While Fort Zelandia remained the political and military center of Dutch Formosa, the areas surrounding Fort Provintia were developed into Taiwan's economic and cultural center. Although the wooden structures atop the fort were rebuilt in the subsequent century, Fort Provintia is still considered the center of Tainan.

The Tungning Taiwan

Because the Dutch never established a firm grip over the entire island, they were always vulnerable to invasions. In the mid-17th century, China's Ming dynasty was at the edge of collapse following the invasion of nomadic Machu tribes from the north. As the imperial court fled south from Beijing, an effective general named Zheng Chenggong (鄭成功) became the main military force that came to the aid of the Ming emperor. For his loyalty, the emperor bestowed him the title of Koxinga (國姓爺), which meant he had the privilege of taking the last name of the imperial family.

Tianna Tiantan Temple was the main celestial shrine of the Kingdom of Tungning.

With battlefield conditions deteriorating, Koxinga decided to attack Dutch Formosa. With a troop of 25,000, he successfully laid siege on Fort Zelandia and Fort Provintia and ended the 28-year Dutch rule. When the Ming emperor was murdered while in exile in Myanmar, Koxinga took up the Ming Dynasty's mantel, hoping to retake the mainland from Manchurians. The Kingdom of Tungning (東寧國王) was officially established to be a bulwark against the Manchurian Qing Dynasty. The historical parallel to Chiang Kai-shek was obvious. For whatever reason, Taiwan is historically a refuge for political exiles.

*Koxinga* is still a popular historical figure. His images could be found on modern brand packages.

To Chiang Kai-shek’s Nationalist government, Koxinga inadvertently became a powerful propaganda tool. While Chiang did not explicitly compare himself to the 17th-century general, his government was eager to cast Koxinga in the light of Chinese nationalism. Both extolled the virtue of the traditional values of the Han Chinese. Like the retreat of the Nationalist government in 1949, many elites also retreated to Taiwan with Koxinga. Koxinga’s government in exile was considered an existential threat, so much so that the Manchurian emperor ordered the evacuation of all civilians from the coasts of the mainland.

The surrender of Dutch commanders to *Koxinga*.

For many Taiwanese, Koxinga is a celebrated historical figure who “emancipated” Taiwan from colonial rule. His undying loyalty to the Ming emperor is celebrated as an emblem of virtuous generals. Despite being from the mainland, the Taiwanese recognize him as one of our own. While his dream was to reclaim the whole of China, his short-lived kingdom inadvertently symbolized Taiwanese autonomy. Ultimately, he passed away at 37, and the Kingdom of Tungning outlasted him for another two decades before succumbing to the Manchurians in 1683.

Being one of the most consequential figures in the history of Taiwan, Koxinga’s presence could be found throughout the island, especially in Tainan. His statues could be found throughout the city, including at Fort Zelandia. At Fort Provintia, there is a well-known statue recreating the Dutch surrender to Koxinga scene. Though the scene may seem dignified, Koxinga was ruthless on and off the battlefield. Capital punishment was routine for deserters and those who failed to achieve military objectives. One famous incident during the Siege of Fort Zelandia involved the mass execution of Dutch prisoners of war, including missionaries and women. The enslavement of Dutch women by his regime was also well-documented.

Statue of *Koxinga* at the main alter of his ancestral shrine.

Without question, the most famous monument to the general himself would be the Koxinga Ancestral Shrine (鄭成功祖廟) in central Tainan. Constructed by his son and successor, the temple is constructed in the Southern Ming style indigenous to Taiwan. The simple yet elegant complex has a complex history. Following the kingdom's fall, The Qing emperor was worried about the potential uprising. To squash any potential restitution, all the descendants of Koxinga were forcibly relocated to the Chinese mainland. With no direct descendants looking after the shrine, it was misappropriated by other families.

The stone statue of Koxinga and his mother Tagawa Matsu.

While locals still revered the former general deeply, few dared to commemorate him publically. It took over a century before a descendent of Koxinga returned and reclaimed it. The shrine had to be restored and modified several times over the centuries. The shrine is now open to the public. While small, the shrine has a few interesting points of interest. The most striking is a little stone statue of young Koxinga with his Japanese mother, Tagawa Matsu. His half-Japanese heritage was not well publicized as it seems to undermine his Han Chinese bonafide. It is almost ironic that Japan would one day rule over this land.

On a cultural level, Koxinga’s most long-lasting impact was the establishment of key institutions of Chinese social order. The most important symbol of his efforts was the Tainan Confucian Temple (臺南孔子廟). Confucianism is the foundation of Chinese society and the bedrock of social order. The Confucian temples are a typical fixture in many Chinese cities and are dedicated not just to Confucius, the man, but to the entire school of thought and all of his disciples. The elaborate (and very scripted) ceremony is performed on the annual feast days.

The beautiful ground of the Tainan Confucian Temple.

For anyone who has never been to a Confucian temple before, it could be quite an interesting experience. It is probably not the typical Taoist and Buddhist temples you have visited in Taiwan. Despite being a temple dedicated to Confucius and his disciples, no tomb or relic was on the premises. Instead, each revered scholar is represented by a “spirit tablet” because there was no recorded imagery of Confucius. For most Chinese, the temple is dedicated to the thoughts of Confucius rather than the man. As a result, the temple interior is relatively simple.

The plaques by incumbent president Tsai Ing-wen.

In the middle of the temple complex is Dacheng Hall (大成殿), which houses the tablet of Confucius and a dozen of his most notable students. But for most Taiwanese, the most interesting aspect of the hall is a dozen calligraphy plaques hanging just beyond the entrance. For those who are not particularly familiar with East Asian culture, these plaques are typically gifted by important political figures or to commemorate their visit. Because this is the preeminent Confucian temple in the country, every president of the Republic of China, from Chiang Kai-shek to Tsai Ing-wen, has their own plaque here.

President Chiang Kai-shek (蔣介石): "Education for All" (有教無類)
President Yen Chia-kan (嚴家淦): “The Teacher For All Ages" (萬世師表）
President Chiang Ching-kuo (蔣經國): "Tao is Universal Through All Times" (道貫古今)
President Lee Teng-hui (李登輝): "The Highest of Moral Character"(德配天地)
President Chen Shui-bian (陳水扁): "Moderation Breeds Prosperity"(中和位育）
President Ma Ying-jeou (馬英九): "Confucian Education Us Transformative" (聖德化育)
President Tsai Ing-wen (蔡英文): "Equal Education For A Moral Society" (德侔道昌)

Given the tumultuous nature of Taiwanese politics, it was a thrill to see all the presidents represented in a single space. Even the degraded President Chen Shui-Bian still has a plaque here. Judging each president's calligraphy skills was a lot of fun. Chinese calligraphy was part of the school curriculum growing up, and I always received poor grades for my calligraphy. I am glad nobody would ever ask me to provide a calligraphy plaque. That would have been embarrassing.

Minglun Hall was the first educational institution in Taiwan.

Typical of most Confucian temples at a time, attached next to it was the city’s main academy. In the case of the Tainan Confucian Temple, the adjacent Minglun Hall (明倫堂) was the first school established in Taiwan. Constructed in 1663, the school educated generations of public intellectuals in the Kingdom of Tungning and still looms large in today’s public imagination. Today, only the central pavilion and a three-tiered pagoda remain. While its architecture is very similar to the temple next door, this open-air pavilion is perhaps my favorite piece of traditional architecture in the country.

The Chinese Qing Tainan

In 1646, an experienced Tungning naval admiral named Shi Lang (施琅) defected to the Qing Empire after a dispute with Koxinga. In revenge, Koxinga executed his father and brother. As a Qing officer, Shi Lang gradually built up a massive naval force and made plans to lay siege on Taiwan. He finally received imperial approval nearly three decades later and launched a successful naval campaign. In 1683, Koxinga’s grandson surrendered to Shi Land, ending Tungning’s 22-year rule in Taiwan. With it, the last remnant of the Ming Dynasty was finally extinguished.

Constructed in 1777, the Stone Gate of Imperial School (泮宮石坊) was added as part of the Confuscious Temple complex.

Despite all the efforts to bring Taiwan under Qing’s rule, Taiwan was considered the backwater of a sprawling empire. Many senior officials of the imperial court in Beijing advocated for the empire to abandon Taiwan. The main objective of Shi Lang’s campaign was to extinguish remnants of the Ming Dynasty, not because of the economic and strategic values of the island. Many considered Taiwan's military and administrative costs too prohibitive for the empire. Shi Lang appealed to the emperor not to abandon the island. In the end, the emperor decided to keep the island, but it was far from the top of the court's mind in Beijing.

For the first century or so, there was little development in Taiwan. Qing rulers barred immigrants from the mainland to bring their families with them. The prevailing attitude was that Taiwan was a “problem to be managed” rather than a place of opportunities. Civil unrest and political rebellion were very common. Soon after Tungning’s demise, the Qiang moved the capital of Taiwan from Tainan to Taipei, a substantially smaller city at the time. However, Tainan still remained the wealthiest city for the next few decades.

Most of the ornate temples we see today around town were constructed during the Qing rule.

It took another century for the Qing rulers to realize the importance of Taiwan. With the start of the Opium Wars and European powers knocking on the doors, Beijing began to recognize the strategic importance of Taiwan. With it came the nascent efforts of industrialization and infrastructural development. In addition to telegrams and railroads, the governor also commissioned a French engineer to build a state-of-the-art fortress in Tainan: Erkunshen Battery (二鯤鯓砲台). It was the first modern fortress built on the island, highlighting Qing’s newfound focus on military defense.

After Qing’s defeat in the Second Opium War in 1860, China was forced to open its ports for foreign trade, including on the island of Taiwan. Foreign missionaries and European traders began to pour in. In Tainan, one of the most famous sites during this period was Tait & Co. Merchant House (德記洋行). Located just a few blocks from Fort Zelandia, the two-story colonial-style villa was home to a British trading company that specialized in the export of tea, sugar, and camphor. It is one of five major trading houses in Tainan and one of the two that still survived. Today, the structure is home to a wax museum that illustrates the daily life of Dutch Formosa.

Unfortunately, the museum was under renovation during our recent visit. Funny enough, the merchant warehouse is now eclipsing the main building as a premier tourist destination. The warehouse was abandoned in the late 20th century and has been completely overtaken by a grove of banyan trees. It is almost a little cousin of Cambodia’s famous "Tomb Raider Temple.” Known locally as Anping Tree House (安平樹屋), the abandoned warehouse has been outfitted with elevated walkways and ramps, allowing visitors to walk among the foliage safely. It is undoubtedly one of the most popular spots for photographers.

Qing Dynasty's rule in Taiwan came to an unceremonious end after the First Sino-Japanese War. China ceded the Pescadores islands and Taiwan to the Empire of Japan under the Treaty of Shimonoseki. As you can imagine, news of the treaty sent shockwaves through the island. In an attempt to delay the unavoidable, the officials and citizens of Taiwan declared the establishment of the Republic of Formosa (台灣民主國). Four days later, the Japanese armed forces arrived and took over the northern port town of Keelung shortly afterward. After the fall of Taipei, the president of the new republic, formerly the governor under Qing rule, fled to the mainland.

Facing imminent collapse, the capital of the republic was moved to Tainan. A military general was proclaimed the second president to take a final stand in Tainan. For the next few months, brutal cashes ensued but proved no match to the professional imperial army. Eventually, the second president was also evacuated to the mainland. Japan successfully captured Tainan and brought Taiwan under the imperial rule. For six months, Taiwan was an independent republic. That was one of the lesser-known chapters of the island’s history.

The reconstruction of the historic flag of the short-lived Republic of Formosa.

The short-lived republic may not be able to save Taiwan from colonial rule, but it remains a source of inspiration for many Taiwanese today. Based on some criteria, the Republic of Formosa was the first-ever republic in Asia. Those advocating for Taiwan's de jure Independence today often see this historic period as a legal basis for formal separation from China. Because of its short existence, few artifacts from this period survived. One main exception would be the official banner of the republic: a blue flag with a yellow tiger. The design echoes the official banner of Qing China, a yellow flag with a blue dragon.

In total, there were three flags made. Two went missing during the war, and the third was taken to Tokyo as a war trophy. The whereabouts of the flag are now a mystery. Fortunately, the Governor-General of Taiwan had a well-respected artist to create a detailed copy of the original flag. The reproduction was so detailed that it is now considered a national treasure of Taiwan. It is now on display in the National Taiwan Museum in Taipei.

The Japanese Tainan

Per the treaty's terms, the residents of Taiwan were given a two-year grace period to consider either emigrating to the mainland or becoming a subject of the Japanese Empire. Ultimately, less than 1% of residents emigrated to the mainland. As the first official colony of the empire, Japan decided to govern Taiwan as a model colony. It is also considered a perfect base for Japan’s imperial expansion southward. While the Japanese were brutal in suppressing any political dissents, a sustained campaign to transform Taiwanese culture into a Japanese one, known as Japanization (皇民化運動), was quite successful. Japanese language and cultural customs became a norm. For instance, all four of my grandparents spoke fluent Japanese and maintained cultural affinity toward Japan throughout their lives.

The Old Tainan Prefecture Police Headquarters is now home to the Tainan Art Museum.

Japan took a deliberate approach to infrastructure development as a model colony. Among the most important projects the Japanese prioritized were modern rail lines and a massive irrigation canal that made the areas around Tainan the most productive agricultural area on the island. Different from Qing China, the Japanese fully embraced modernism and Westernization. While the Japanese constructed plenty of Shinto temples and other traditional Japanese buildings throughout the island, relatively few survived until today after the decolonization efforts by the Republic of China.

One major Japanese building that survived is the Tainan Martial Art Hall (臺南武德殿). Situated beside the Confucian temple, this structure was constructed to promote Japanese martial arts, which includes aikido, judo, and kendo. For Westerners, Shinto architecture may look quite similar to traditional Chinese architecture. But for us Taiwanese, this distinctively Japanese style reminds us of a bygone era of nostalgia.

Nowadays, most surviving Japanese-era buildings are of the Western design. Japanese have a knack for a style called “Japanese-Western Eclectic Architecture,” fusing European architecture with Japanese motifs. The most famous example would be the Presidential Office Building in Taipei, which was the office of the Governor-General of Taiwan during the colonial period. This architectural style is rather commonplace throughout the island. Every city has a couple of grand civic buildings that look seemingly out of Europe.

My personal favorite in Tainan is the Old Tainan District Court, which happened to be right across the street from the hotel we were staying at. Despite being a hodgepodge of Baroque and neo-classical designs, the building is quite beautiful. The former courthouse has been fully renovated and is now home to the Taiwan Judicial Museum (臺南司法博物館). As dull as the name suggests, the museum was quite a joy to explore, even for those who don’t understand Chinese or are interested in the judiciary. Visitors could take a tour of not only the jail cells but also a collection of historical court documents from the colonial period. Amazingly, my family and I spent three hours at this museum.

Of all the Japanese-era buildings in Tainan, the grandest is arguably the Old Tainan Prefecture Building (原臺南州廳). The Tuscan columns and heavy rustication of lower walls make this the most handsome structure in the city. A national historic landmark, the building was almost leveled in a massive air raid by the American Air Force in 1945. It stood abandoned for four years after the war and was only recently renovated. Today, the building is home to the National Museum of Taiwan Literature and can be easily visited by the public.

Just a few blocks away from the Old Tainan Prefecture Building is an imposing marble building: the Land Bank of Taiwan. An austere but handsome building, the bank is a Japanese interpretation of an ancient Greek temple, albeit with a triangular floor plan. The unusual combination of Art Deco and Greek Revival style may look sinister initially, but it seems very appropriate for a bank. For many Taiwanese, these Western-Japanese buildings are some of the most beautiful on the island. In retrospect, that may be an indictment of the modern Taiwanese identity.

Nowadays, Tainan’s most popular landmark from the Japanese period is Hayashi Department Store (林百貨). The six-story structure was completed in 1932 and was the tallest building in the city and the most modern in southern Taiwan. The building incorporates state-of-art technologies such as elevators, roller shutters, and lightning rods. It was a testament to this area’s economic prosperity. The surrounding neighborhood was the premier shopping district of Japanese Tainan. It was often referred to as the “Ginza of Taiwan.”

The department store closed after the Second World War. Various government agencies and state-owned enterprises occupied the building. Within a few decades, the building was abandoned. Thanks to the designation as a municipal landmark, the building escaped the fate of demolition. It was not until the early 2010s that the city decided to renovate it and revert it to commercial use. In 2014, the department reopened under the original name Hayashi, focusing on Taiwanese products and creative design from Tainan. The city invited the descendants of the Hayashi family back for the opening.

The renovation was beautifully done and retained most of the original interiors. Entering was like being transported through time. From the vintage elevator to the beautiful terrazzo floor, the space reminded me of many old buildings I grew up with during my childhood. Each floor of the department store has its own theme and features some of Taiwan's most well-known boutique design brands. It is the best place to pick up some good souvenirs. The may very well be the best one-stop shop for all things Taiwanese.

The rooftop Shinto shrine of Hayashi Department Store.

The store's highlight would be the lovely rooftop with a Shinto shrine. Hayashi holds the distinction of being the only department store on the island with its own Shinto shrine. Today, only the concrete Torii gate and two stone lanterns survived. The rest of the shrine (and much of the roof) was destroyed during the same air raid that leveled the nearby Prefecture Hall. Many scares from the American air raid have been preserved.

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Tainan - The Original Capital of Taiwan

The Dutch Tainan

The Tungning Taiwan

The Chinese Qing Tainan

The Japanese Tainan

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