Tbilisi - The Enigmatic Capital
In the fall of 2011, I was an exchange student at Moscow's МАРХИ (Moscow Architectural Institute) as part of the new program by Columbia University. Meghan and I were the only two Americans in the program, and we became quite codependent with each other as roommates in a rather unfriendly environment like Moscow. Like any other study abroad program, we are always itching to go somewhere fun whenever we could ask for a long weekend. Moscow's ever-lower temperature and cloudy sky certainly have us thinking of an international weekend trip.
Serendipitously, Meghan's then-boyfriend Steve was being dispatched to Tbilisi. He has worked as a GIS specialist in Seattle, and Georgia would be his first international assignment. Naturally, we looked to Georgia and Tbilisi as possible destinations for a weekend away from school madness. Our friend Olga had brought us to a Georgian restaurant in Kitay Gorod just a few days prior. We were taken away by just how delicious Georgian cuisine is. The cuisine combines the best flavor profiles from Asia, the Middle East, and the Mediterranean. Truthfully, that magnificent meal in Moscow was my only impression of Georgia.
The classical skyline of Old Tbilisi, unspoiled by the modern construction.
Of course, during my college days, we were allowed to be spontaneous and dropped into a foreign country without any research or preconceived notions. Following the recent Russian invasion a year earlier, we were somewhat apprehensive about visiting this 'war-torn' country. But again, this danger factor was also part of the draw, to be honest. Most Americans would be able to pinpoint Georgia on the map, but they must have heard of the recent invasion. To our consternation, we even wondered whether our Russian student visas would land us any traveling when entering Georgia. Of course, that proved to be an unwarranted worry. Russians still account for the largest share of foreign visitors to Georgia despite invasions.
Most important of all, an American passport is golden in Georgia. At 365 days, Georgia offers the most generous visa-free access for Americans among all the nations. The political gratitude toward the United States was evident just outside of the Tbilisi Airport, with the wide and dignified Georgia W. Bush Avenue leading you straight to central Tbilisi. The customs officials seem genuinely friendly with greeting Americans, a rare thing nowadays given America's precarious standing in the world community.
First Impression
For some odd reason, almost all flights in and out of Tbilisi are around the odd hours, between 3 am and 6 am. Our red-eye flight from Moscow via Kyiv landed in Tbilisi around 4 am. At 5 am, the terminal was teeming with activities with both inbound and outbound flights. Fortunately, the terminal at Tbilisi International Airport is both spacious and modern. Meghan and I took a brief up at the arrival area and awaited the first departure of Bus 37. At half the price, 50 GEL, it is perhaps the cheapest ride I have ever taken, and it brought you straight to Liberty Square, the heart of Tbilisi.
Characteristically charming Old Tbilisi.
The 40-minute ride on Bus 37 offered a good overview of the urban landscape of Tbilisi. Along the way, we were greeted by decrepit Soviet-era monuments, monotonous Communist housing blocks, and unusual contemporary architecture. With a population of over 1.2 million, Tbilisi is Georgia's cultural and economic life center. The sprawling city covers numerous hilltops surrounding the Mtkvari River valley that gave birth to the city. As you reached closer to the center, the architecture became more quaint and perhaps more rustic. The Old Tbilisi is a wonderful maze of winding streets with a series of courtyard residential complexes that are traditional to Georgia and a world away from the rigidity of Soviet-era housing.
Guesthouse SkadeVeli.
Immediately upon exiting the bus, I was taken in by the air of authenticity of the neighborhood and was glad to stay in a little guesthouse in the middle of it all. Meghan was meeting up with her boyfriend, Steve, who happened to be in Tbilisi for work from Seattle. Therefore, she got a free room at the fancy Courtyard Marriott at Freedom Square. However, I was quite in love with my little guesthouse just inside a quiet courtyard. The property has only four private rooms with single occupancy and a shared bathroom. When we arrived early, the friendly host provided us Turkish coffee and delightful Georgian pastries. Despite its affordability and rickety stairs, it is one of the best accommodations to take in the tranquility of the metropolis. Irakli, the host at the guesthouse, offered us amazing and delightful pastries and a round of Turkish coffee. My room was adorable, with my little private balcony jutting onto the street.
Old Tbilisi still survives.
Although completely exhausted by the overnight travel, I felt obligated to explore the city because of the beautiful weather. At the periphery of Old Town, the signs of revitalization efforts are abound. Like Western Europe, several picturesque streets and lanes are now pedestrianized and flanked with charming, albeit touristy, restaurants and hookah bars. After sunset, these areas descended into the madness of drunken ex-pats and Russian tourists. If you were to stay in Old Tbilisi, I would advise staying away from the main restaurant/cafe rows. Despite the rowdiness, tourism seems to be the only avenue in saving the traditional architecture of the old residential areas. Characteristically, Georgian homes are known for their embellished balconies, and Tbilisi still has some of the most charming residential districts in Georgia.
Quintessential balcony in Old Tbilisi.
A surprisingly elegant modern apartment block,
A short walk from the guesthouse is the most bizarre structure in Georiga. Designed by Italian designer Michele De Lucchi, the Bridge of Peace opened a year earlier and was pristine. A handsome structure in its own right, the pedestrian bridge would stick out like a sour thumb just about anywhere... let alone amid a historic neighborhood. Constructed of glass and steel transported by land from Italy, it was meant to symbolize modern Tbilisi, but like so much of Georgia, it borders the edge of absurdity. Its usual undulating shape is prone to mockery, either as a skeleton of a marine mammal or a piece of giant female sanitation pad (according to the locals).
A project under the leadership of Prime Minister Mikheil Saakashvili, its flamboyant characters are just like the politician himself.... bombastic and irritating. But the true glory (or disgust, perhaps) of the bridge came into life around sunset and lit up with thousands of pulsating LED lights. Supposedly, the LED is meant to contain the message about art and humanity. But if you ask me, that is a bit of a stretch. As a pedestrian bridge, it was quite a bit of unnecessary structure. That said, I do have to say that it is fun to walk through it and see young families enjoying this iconic structure.
Kooky side of Tbilisi that is not entirely appropriate.
Rike Park is connected by the bridge on the north bank of the Kura River, still under construction. There were many kitschy elements, like a giant fake piano music-accompanying water show, an outdoor giant chess set, and other things. It is truly an "Alice in Wonderland" and not in a good way. Devoid of all topographical features, this theme-park-like complex looks carnival-like. What is most shocking was the lack of Georgian architecture and motifs. In the bid to modernize Georgia into a European nation, they may have underestimated the draw of their national heritage. Based on the posted rendering around the park, the new concert hall venue they have planned for the park certainly would only make the place more bizarre than it already is.
The flea market along the Dry Bridge.
A peaceful lane of Avalbari.
Just one bridge north of the Bridge of Peace is the Dry Bridge, home to Georgia's most famous flea market. This daily flea market is vast and covers not only the bridge itself but also the adjacent parkland. Right after the dissolution of the Soviet Union, this is where the middle-class professional class would have sold their valuables to sustain their standard of living. Like all flea markets, it is often a reflection of economic desperation. Nowadays, the items on sale are often household items and old memorabilia of questionable origins. However, it is still one of the best markets to browse through. From Soviet-era pins, old drinkware, and antique posters to drinking horns, it is easily the best one-stop marketplace for your Georgian souvenir. As usual, friendly haggling and buying bulk could go far.
Orthodox Insurgency
Despite the adventurous architecture, Georgia is still a deeply conservative country. Along with Armenia, Georgia experienced the greatest renaissance of religious life after the fall of the Soviet Union. Over 80% of Georgians practice Orthodox Christianity, predominantly Georgian Orthodox Faith. As the second Christian country, they took their faith seriously, and all churches, large and small, seemed to be filled with worshippers at all hours. Even the passengers on the city bus would cross their chests when they drive by a major cathedral.
A brand new cathedral in Tbilisi.
The Orthodox faith is a symbol of Georgian ethnic identity and, consequently, a refute against the history of the Soviet Occupation. The crown jewel of this revival is the Cathedral of Holy Trinity. Completed only in 2004, it is the third tallest Orthodox church in the world and the national shrine of Georgia. Designed in traditional Georgian church architecture, the cathedral is impressive in scale but of quite an uncomfortable proportion. Because all Orthodox churches are of Latin Cross plan, the structure's footprint is substantially smaller than its Catholic counterparts. It is no wonder why the architect raised the height to compensate.
Beautiful carving (or cast concrete)?
The stark interior at an orthodox church seems a little unusual.
Not surprisingly, the new cathedral has proven controversial from the very beginning. A substantial part of the neighborhood and an Armenian necropolis were razed to make way for the cathedral. The vast empty ground also hosts a seminary, cemetery, and the residence of the Catholicos-Patriarch of All Georgia, the leader of the Georgian Orthodox Church. The whole complex is spankingly new and seems to be contradictory to most Orthodox churches I have ever visited.
Orthodox Christians revered their religious icons and traditions more than any other faith. You lose much of the atmospheric reverence when you have a brand-new cathedral. I typically look for all the faded frescos and layers of grime from centuries of incense burning. Even though this is not among Europe's largest or most beautiful cathedrals, the tall, slender profile made the interior space much more dramatic.
Post-Constructivist Magic
A short 15-minute walk from the Medical University Metro Stop is the headquarters building of the National Bank of Georgia (29a Iuri Gagarini Street). This is perhaps the only building in Georgia that I was aware of before the trip. Originally the former headquarters of the Ministry of Highway Construction of the Georgian SSR, the unusual structure is unlike any other I have ever visited; it is difficult to summarize my feelings for the design. It borders between sublimity and absurdity. In a true Soviet manner, the propensity of heroic mass is unquestionable. At the same time, the two-story individual volumes break down the monumentality and allow nature and the sky plane to break through.
A perfectly framed view of the hill of Tbilisi.
Headquarter of National Bank of Georgia.
Headquarter of National Bank of Georgia.
Often labeled as a post-Constructivist, the headquarters building is difficult to classify. Its articulation around the windows and the stark stucco appearance is Soviet in style. At the same time, its unorthodox massing speaks to its locality. It has since become another symbol of Georgia and is protected under its status as a national monument.
Of course, the architect in me was immediately in love with the diagonal support system that is visible. It is reminiscent of Norman Foster's HSBC Bank Headquarters Building in Hong Kong. Quite remarkably, both designs are reminiscent of the metabolism architecture of the 1960s. Perhaps this is why an inevitable thought came into my head... wouldn't this make a perfect boutique hotel? The varying views and numerous terraces could make it one of the most spectacular in Georgia.
Departing Thoughts
Our four-day visit to Tbilisi was way too short to get a real grasp of this fascinating city. Many have commented that the Baltic capitals or Saint Petersburg be the most accessible destinations for foreign visitors within the former USSR. Still, I must say that Tbilisi may deserve the mantle as one of the great cities in the Eastern Bloc.
Metekhi Saint Virgin Church at sunset.
