Thailand Itinerary - Winter 2019 — Tuljak! Travel Blog

Oh, Thailand. What do I think of it? That is a difficult question since we only visited the most touristy part of Thailand. Although we did consciously steer clear of Phuket, our itinerary is nevertheless far from the authentic experience of Thailand. In many ways, our trip to Thailand was somewhat last minute, at least by my standard of reference. When we got around to planning a getaway for early December, the affordable flights from New York were limited. After much debate, we narrowed our options to either Argentina or Thailand. This being Brian's 40th birthday trip, we ultimately opted for a tropical beach vacation, and you certainly won't get that in Argentina.

With generous subsidies to state-owned airlines, we got roundtrip tickets from New York to Thailand for less than $500. The deal was too tempting to resist, and sometimes you must follow the cheapest tickets. More than any other place we have visited in recent years, Thailand is the most touristy place. Provided this is our first visit to Thailand, we decided to dive into the greatest hits: Chiang Mai and Phuket. Of course, it doesn't take me long to realize what a nightmare Phuket may be. The adjacent province of Krabi seems to be an excellent alternative. That said, we planned a day in Phuket to visit the famous cabaret ladyboy show. We seem to be ticking off all the cultural cliches on this trip.

Day 1 - New York - Shanghai - Chiang Mai

After a fourteen-and-a-half-hour red-eye flight, we arrived half-awake at Shanghai's Pudong Airport at 4:30 am and made the best out of our five-hour layover. While there was nothing glamorous about Pudong's Terminal 1, I did get to try out the famed Tsui Wah Restaurant from Hong Kong (albeit quite a disappointing experience). It has been more than eight years since I have been to the east of Asia. Words could not describe my excitement to see the Asian-style convenience store inside the terminal. It brought me back to my childhood in Taiwan and the convenience/delicacy of the Asian way of life. Soon enough, we were on our four-and-a-half-hour flight to Chiang Mai. Chiang Mai Airport was manageable and efficient. Within thirty minutes of landing, we went from the airplane to the taxi with Thai SIM cards on our phones.

Wonderful dusk at Rincome Night Market in Nimman District. — Wonderful dusk at Rincome Night Market in Nimman District.

A short 15-minute drive brought us to our temporary home at Mila Thapae Hotel, a short stroll from the Thapae Gate of the Old City. After the much-needed shower at the end of more than 30 hours of travel, we went a couple of blocks away to Bamboo Bikes to try out renting a motorbike. After nearly half an hour of tutorial, we concluded that Chiang Mai was too busy of a place for us to try riding the motorbike for the first time. Feeling deflated that my travel plan had gone arrayed on the first hour in Thailand, we decided to take the rest of the day slow... Thai style.

We took a Grab car to the trendy Nimman areas to sample the popular night market and dessert at Mango Tango. While we were still pondering about our first meal in Thailand, we opted to get an hour-long Thai massage at Lantana Message. Although I found the experience to be heavenly, Brian was definitely in pain during the whole hour. Afterward, we headed back to Old City for dinner at Kanjana Restaurant to enjoy a delicious feast before getting our well-earned rest.

Day 2 - Chiang Mai

After our lovely breakfast, we began our full day in Thailand with a self-guided walking tour of the Old City. It did not take long to understand why Chiang Mai was such a popular destination. There is a temple every few blocks, and each is more magnificent than the other. Our day of temple hopping started at Chiang Mai Pillar City Shrine and Wat Chedi Luang. Worried about my inappropriate shorts, we picked up a scarf at a market by Wat Pan On. Much to our surprise, some temples in Thailand prohibited women from visiting. Even more amusing was the plaque that explained how female menstruation could bring bad fortune to the city. Oh boy!

After enjoying delicious ethnic coffee at the lovely Akha Ama La Fattoria, we opted to have lunch at the famous grilled bird at SP Chicken. After lunch, we resumed our temple-hopping with a visit to Wat Phra Singh, arguably the most important religious site in Old Town. The golden temple was especially memorable, but the main temple was unfortunately under renovation. To keep my promise to have a bowl of khao soi every day in Chiang Mai, we managed to have a second lunch at Khao Soi Khun Yai, a perennial favorite for locals and visitors. For about two dollars, you get one of Asia's most delicious bowls of noodles.

Wat Chedi Luang is arguably the most famous landmark in the Old City.

Just across from the eatery is Wat Lok Moli, a royal temple that belonged to Thailand's Mengrai dynasty. While small, it is one of my favorite temple complexes in Chiang Mai. After a quick stop at the hotel, we headed east on Chang Moi Road toward Ping River. The 15-minute stroll took us to the more authentic slice of Chiang Mai and reminded us of the typical streetscape in Taiwan. The pace of life on the other side of the river is decidedly slower and ideal for casual browsing.

From the ethnic textile shop Sop Moei Arts to the trendy lifestyle center Woo Cafe and Art Gallery, this stretch along the river is a shopping paradise for those interested in design. We did light shopping at Woo Cafe and a slice of heavenly passion fruit cheesecake. As we approached sunset time, we took a stroll down the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar and enjoyed a couple of Singha beers at Le Bistrot & Le Terrace to take in the chaotic energy. We capped our exhausting day with a fancy dinner at The House by Ginger. Man, we did a lot on our first day!

Day 3 - Chiang Mai

It is our last day in Chiang Mai, and we are ready to tackle Doi Suthep, the ultimate temple for any visit to Chiang Mai. Located 40 minutes uphill from the Old Town, the temple commands a beautiful view over greater Chiang Mai. Without our own motorbike, we were tasked with finding the way via the mysterious shared taxi called Songthaews. As Asian as I am, I hate negotiating for a fare, let alone doing it in front of fellow passengers. After much bargaining, I talked the fare down from 700 to 300 bahts for two. The road to the temple was a lot more circuitous than I imagined. But the Golden Temple did not disappoint. It was touristy and yet stayed true to its cultural and pilgrimage heritage. Although we were quite ignorant of the meaning of the rituals, we did partake in many ceremonies nevertheless.

After a beautiful northern Thai lunch at Huen Muan Jai and another bowl of khao soi, we visited Wat Umong Suan Phutthatham on the western edge of town. Best known for its natural surroundings and subterranean tunnels, the temple was a nice break from the hustle and bustle of central Chiang Mai. Fifteen minutes away from Wat Umong is Baan Kang Wat, the new creative hub for young artisans and hipsters. This village-like complex is filled with boutiques and cafes, though they may cater more to the younger and female clientele.

Before sunset, I was determined to stop and see one last temple: Wat Sri Suphan. Its flamboyance and contemporary sculptural relief are second to none. If we do not have the chance to visit the famed White Temple in Chiang Rai, Wat Sri Suphan is a good alternative. By the time we arrived at the temple, the setup of the Saturday Night Market was already underway. We ended our day at the night market, sampling vast arrays of available items.

Day 4 - Chiang Mai - Phuket - Mueang Krabi

Sadly, our time in Chiang Mai is coming to an end. We were amazed by the wonderful weather in northern Thailand and could only hope we had the same in the south. Our morning flight to Phuket on Thai Smile Airways was amazing, especially compared to our experiences with China Eastern Airlines. Our little quick meal on this regional airline is not necessarily less impressive to aviation heavyweights like Emirates and Qatar Airways. As we approached Phuket, I could sense Brian's palpable excitement about our tropical adventures. We were quite amazed by the sheer scale of Phuket Airport. Even though we knew of the popularity of Phuket as a tourist destination, we did not expect such a bustling operation. After picking up our rental car, we took a two-hour trip to Krabi.

Royal archiway gracing a major street in Chiang Mai.

This will be my first time driving in Krabi and on the left side of the road. It is a challenge, particularly the reverse location of the windshield whippers and turning signal switches. As we left the island of Phuket, we were greeted by the scenic countryside. The dramatic limestone cliffs that made Krabi famous revealed themselves before us. While excited, I could see how the clouds had gathered, and our sunny tropical vacation was gradually slipping away. Before arriving at our resort, we stopped by Ruan Thip for a lovely riverside afternoon feast. We could honestly say this is our favorite restaurant from our ten-day trip to Thailand. It was Thai hospitality at its best.

My favorites find in Thai 7-11: salted egg yolk buttercream roll cake!

Our home for the next four nights was the sprawling Dusit Thani Krabi Beach Resort, and we were ready for the start of our beach vacation. Surely, it started to rain immediately after getting to our room. What do you do at a beach resort when it is pouring outside? Luckily, our "club room" provided unlimited drinks and hors d'oeuvres during the happy hour! Amazingly, we were in bed by nine and prayed for a sunny day tomorrow.

Day 5 - Mueang Krabi - Railay Beach- Ao Nang - Tha Pom Klong Song Nam - Mueang Krabi

Checking the weather app is like a compulsive behavior for me while abroad. Much for my distress, the forecast for the next few days was daily thunderstorms. Spotting the opening of a rainless morning, we decided to tackle Railay Beach, a premier destination within the Krabi Province. With no road access from the mainland, Railay is a peninsula that is only accessible by long-tail boat from either Ao Nang, Ao Nammao Pier, or Krabi town. When we arrived at the boat service in Ao Nang, the cloud had gathered, and we honestly did not have high hopes for our day on the beach.

The 15-minute boat ride was fun and offered a beautiful view of the Railay peninsula and surrounding islands. Our first impression of Railay was not great. With the low tide, the beach was unattractive and smelled of diesel. The whole peninsula was surprisingly small, and we were able to visit all three beaches in the span of an hour. What was even more disappointing was the overdevelopment and the hoard of tourists on Phra Nang Beach (หาดถ้ำพระนาง), which was billed as the secluded getaway beach in Railay.

This is "picturesque" Railay West Beach, except with all the tourism.

Ultimately, our entire visit to Railay was just over two hours, and we were sorely disappointed with the experience. After returning to Ao Nang, we just headed to lunch to pick up our spirit. On our way to a recommended restaurant, I spot a McDonald's. I have been telling Brian that, unlike the USA, McDonald's in Asia serves bone-in fried chicken. Sure, having American fast food was not a good mark of travel, but I consider this a cultural experience. We certainly don't get fried chicken on a porcelain plate at McDonald's back home.

Afterward, we had a real lunch at Ploychompoo Seafood Station, which is strongly recommended by our friends Vince and Ivy. Sure enough, the downpour began just as we ordered our food. Debating where to visit in the afternoon, we opted for a visit to Tha Pom Klong Song Nam, a mangrove forest reserve about 45 minutes north of Ao Nang. We capped our afternoon back at the resort, lamenting the rain with a glass of white wine. Oh well... tomorrow will be better, I am sure.

Day 6 - Mueang Krabi - Krabi Elephant Sanctuary - Krabi Town - Mueang Krabi

After a frustrating experience yesterday, I am excited that we have some pre-arranged excursions today. We were picked up at 6:45 to journey an hour north to visit the Krabi Elephant Sanctuary. Because of the animal welfare issue, I have debated and heavily researched the ethics of visiting an elephant sanctuary. The word sanctuary could be somewhat debatable for many animal activists. Our visit to the elephants was highly structured and followed well-established routines. We contact them closely, including feeding and bathing the elephants. By all accounts and our observations, these elephants are treated well. In the end, it is true that these elephants are better off than in their former roles as logging or riding elephants.

We enjoyed a few hours of precious pool time at the resort before another afternoon downpour. The miserable burger from the poolside bar just reminded me that this should be our only meal within the resort. As depressing as lunch was, we were booked for a cooking class at Thai Charm Cooking School, another recommendation by our friends. During the four-hour course, we could make our own curry paste, a Thai curry dish, a stir-fry dish, and a traditional soup dish. The course was fun, fast-paced, and approachable to people of all ages and backgrounds. While I think the chef was over the top, the experience was very enjoyable. But most of all, our creation was so delicious that it gave us the confidence to do this back home. The course concludes with two dessert courses: mango with sticky rice and banana with coconut milk. We were stuffed at the end of the night.

Day 7 - Mueang Krabi

Several days of thunderstorms had dampened my spirit of a tropical beach vacation. While we got a rare clear blue sky in the morning, the forecast for the day once again predicted an overcast and persistent rain starting around noontime. Rather than chartering a long-tail boat to Koh Hong as I originally planned and be drenched in a thunderstorm in the afternoon, I decided to have a relaxing day at the resort. Ironically, the stretch of sand right at our doorstep was far more lovely and peaceful than our experiences in Railay Beach. Sure, it didn't have the dramatic limestone cliff, but the tranquility of this place more than made up for it.

We had a late lunch at Ruen Mai Restaurant in anticipation of the coming afternoon thunderstorm. Located in Krabi Town and near the cooking school from yesterday, it was a solid 30-minute pleasant drive from the resort. The restaurant stood out in the middle of a residential neighborhood because of its organic architecture and beautifully landscaped garden. It is easy to see why this could be the best place for a date night in Krabi.

Our first glimpse of Thailand that people rave about. This is Mueang Krabi Beach at our resort.

Not surprisingly, their regional dishes were delicious. Since this was our last full day in Krabi, we were in the mood for some end-of-trip shopping for this trip. Instead of the tacky souvenir shops along Ao Nang Beach, we visited the most Thai place to shop: the Tesco Lotus hypermarket. As silly as it sounds, going to a place without a Westerner was refreshing. We have always enjoyed visiting foreign supermarkets since they often encapsulate the local culinary culture. We picked up a Zebra brand stainless wok and bags of durian treats for our colleagues. Funny enough, Brian decided to try the Kentucky Fried Chicken in Thailand.... yeah. We capped our day with a couple of happy-hour drinks and watched our first sunset by the infinity pool.

Day 8 - Mueang Krabi - Bor Thor - Phuket

Of course, the weather finally cleared up on the day of our departure. For the very first, we get to see our resort in the blue sky that Krabi is known for. Unfortunately, we had no time for the sun on the beach as I booked a morning kayak tour at Bor Thor. It turned out to be one of the least pleasant experiences on our trip. Not only did our tour operator tell us the wrong arrival time, but the tour itself was also anticlimactic. During the three-hour tour, we visited two caves, bronze-age cave paintings, and a range of wildlife. While our tour guide was not particularly friendly or informative, we doubt it would have made this tour exciting.

On our way to Phuket, we made a detour to the Samet Nangshe Viewpoint, which offered an unparalleled view of the Phang Nga Bay. For the first time on this trip, I became speechless. I have finally found my little slice of peace and serenity. But just as memorable as the views were, the final ascend to the viewpoint on the back of the pickup truck. It was the craziest ride we have ever had. It must have been a 30-degree incline in some sections.

The most spectacular view of the Phang Nga Bay

As beautiful as the view was, we were eager to get to our final hotel on this trip: Anantara Mai Khao Phuket Villas. Unlike all other properties we have ever stayed at, this resort comprises only private pool villas. This was the first time we got our own private pool. Although it does not offer an ocean view, the villa has everything we looked for in a private oasis. The public pool area is just as tranquil and offers a serene view of the Andaman Sea. To say that we were so relaxed would be an understatement. At the recommendation of the hospitality manager, we had our dinner at the resort's premier restaurant, Sea.Fire.Salt. It might be our most expensive meal in years, but it was delicious. Funny enough, I was unwilling to fall asleep tonight simply because I wanted to enjoy everything this place offered.

Day 9 - Phuket

This is our lazy resort day. We did everything possible to enjoy every free amenities the resort offers. We worked hard to maximize the relaxation from the beautiful breakfast buffet to the two-for-one happy hour at the pool bar. With a private pool villa and a lovely beachside pool, it was difficult to figure out how to spend our 24 hours to the fullest. One of the most lovely aspects of our day was to cycle around the property and enjoy the beautifully landscaped garden; every inch of the ground was meticulously landscaped to resemble a natural tropical paradise.

Waking up to a peaceful oasis, albeit semi-artificially.

Per the recommendation of the hospitality team, we skipped lunch and opted for the signature afternoon tea at the Tree House. The afternoon tea was served in an enormous hanging birdcage, and we definitely got a major sugar high. Although we felt slightly guilty for not seeing Phuket, we could not get away from this beautiful resort. Ultimately, we managed to get off the property for dinner just across the street. The adjacent Turtle Village shopping center offers a plethora of dining choices. Out of frustration, we ended up settling for a buffet at Chaam Restaurant from the adjacent Anantara property; It was a bad decision on our part. Oh well...

Day 10 - Phuket - Shanghai - New York

This was our last day in Thailand, and we dreaded returning to reality. Most of all, we were less than jazzed about the 30-hour journey back to New York. With the check-out time at noon, we had a well-crafted plan to squeeze out every moment of enjoyment before then. Although we did not get to have a late check-out, we could enjoy the facility for the remainder of the day. Eventually, we decided to venture out to see at least a bit of Phuket before heading home. We had our last formal meal in Thailand at the Kin Dee Restaurant, a local joint five minutes from the resort. We only wish that we had dinner here the previous night.

Beautiful ground of Anantara Mai Khao Phuket Villas.

One real motivation for going into Phuket was to see the legendary Ladyboy show at Simon Cabaret. With the showtime at 6 pm, we just had enough time to visit Old Town Phuket. Weirdly enough, part of Phuket reminded me of Taiwan. There is a rather sizable Chinese-speaking community here, and Chinese tourists mob the whole town. Although the tourist energy of Phuket did not entirely enthrall us, it is certainly not difficult for us to understand why it is such a draw for people around the world. That said, the traffic on the island was insane; we barely made it to Simon Cabaret in time. Now, that show itself was fun and out of control; it deserves a separate post on its own.

The final lineup at Phuket Simon Cabaret.

It was a solid hour's drive back to the resort, and we took a quick shower before bidding farewell to Thailand. Despite a last-minute scare with my rental car keys, we safely made it to the airport on time. Thank you, Thailand, and I am sure we will meet again.

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Thailand Itinerary - Winter 2019