Trakai - Somewhere Between History & Fantasy
For whatever reasons, the Lithuanian capital, Vilnius, does not enjoy the sterling reputation of travelers compared to the other Baltic capitals to the north. As an inland city, Vilnius does not have the charm of the Hanseatic League or the grandeur of an imperial city. By all measures, Vilnius is the least visited of the three Baltic capitals. On my trip to Vilnius years ago, I was surprised by the unfavorable views people seem to have about this city. While Tallinn and Riga are beautiful, Vilnius appears more human-scale and relaxed. The city center had not been overtaken by tourism. But as much as I enjoyed my time in Vilnius, I agree that the city does not have a photogenic landmark like Tallinn’s Saint Olaf Church or Riga’s House of the Blackheads. Vilnius Cathedral and the Cathedral Square, the city’s main landmarks, are architecturally underwhelming in comparison.
Fortunately, the island castle at Trakai on the outskirts of Vilnius offers one of the most photogenic sights in Lithuania. Trakai is no doubt the most popular day trip from the city. Located just 20 miles from central Vilnius, the town of Trakai was only a 35-minute bus ride from the central bus station. A visit to Vilnius is almost obligatory for any visitor.
Beautiful urban garden.
Typical triple-windowed wooden Karaim house along the main road.
Luckily, on the day of my visit, the weather was picture-perfect. With not a cloud in the sky and the gentle breeze, it was like heaven on earth. After getting off the bus at the Trakai Bus Station, it was a pleasant 25-minute walk to the castle. It only took a few minutes to realize the beauty of this town. Karaimu Street, the main road toward the castle, runs parallel to the peninsula, and you can see Lake Luka on one side and Lake Totoriškių on the other. As I got close to the island, there was a series of colorful houses with big gable ends. According to the guidebook, these simple and cheerful houses are said to be unique to the local Karaims community. These colorful cottages all have three windows facing the street, with one window dedicated to God, one for the Grand Duke Vytautas, and the final one for visiting guests.
Typical triple-windowed wooden Karaim house along the main road.
Karaims are a unique community of Turkic origin. The group traces its roots to present-day Iraq and descendants of Karaite Jews. They were brought to Lithuania by Grand Duke Vytautas in the late 14th century to serve as the royal guard of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. Historically, the Karaims people were granted the right to self-governance and freedom of worship due to their service to the state. Trakai has long been the center of Karaims' life here in Lithuania due to the proximity to the Trakai Castle, then the residence of the Grand Duke.
Statue of Vytautas the Great by folk wood carver Ipolitas Užkurnys.
Statue of Vytautas the Great by folk wood carver Ipolitas Užkurnys.
By the most recent count, only roughly 2,500 Karaims remain worldwide, and just 250 remain in Lithuania. Today, Trakai remains the center of Karaim’s culture. Even though the population in Trakai has been small in the past few centuries, The town’s identity has been closely linked to those of Karaims. Today, Trakai hosts the Karaites Ethnographic Museum and a rare surviving kenesa, the special wooden synagogues for Karaims. It is just one of a dozen synagogues in Poland and Lithuania that survived the wrath of the Holocaust and World War II. Fortunately for visitors, the kenesa is on the main road, just before reaching the island castle.
An idyllic view of Trakai Island Castle.
It is like a fairytale comes into life.
The grand courtyard of Trakai Castle.
Trakai’s island castle was first constructed under the reign of Grand Duke Kęstutis, and it occupies a naturally strategic and defensible position. The castle became Kęstutis’s main residence and the duchy’s main treasury. Over the reign of his son, Grand Duke Vytautas, the castle was enlarged into a massive residence with elaborate frescos and a six-story keep. For some time, the castle was Lithuania's de facto administrative center. It was not until the Battle of Grunwald and the defeat of the Teutonic Knight that the strategic importance of the castle diminished.
No matter how many times you have seen the pictures of this fairytale castle, the beauty of the architecture and its surrounding landscape is breathtaking. A long wooden footbridge connects the island itself. While I have been warned that this is perhaps the second most visited sight in the country (number one being the Hill of Crosses in Šiauliai), I was pleasantly surprised by the lack of tourists during my morning visit. After paying the modest admission fee, I could roam around the castle complex. The Ducal Palace's sheer-scale and dramatically tiled roof within the expansive inner courtyard are impressive.
The inner courtyard of Ducal Palace.
The inner courtyard of Ducal Palace.
There are several reconstructed rooms within the confines of the Ducal Palace. The interior reconstruction includes the throne room with typical Gothic vaults and the private quarter of the grand duke. As you may expect in a popular castle, the exhibit also features various artifacts ranging from historical coins to weaponry and a good collection of golden vessels made by the Teutonic Knights. All in all, the exhibition inside the castle was short and sweet. As I was leaving the Ducal Palace, I came upon a little section showcasing the restoration work at the castle. I was shocked to see the state of deep disrepair. Ironically, it was not until the Soviet time that this national landmark was finally restored.
Could you distinguish the old from the new?
Could you distinguish the old from the new?
Though admittedly an impressive site today, Trakai’s authenticity seems somewhat dubious. Looking at the historical photos and paintings, I can’t help feeling a sense of melancholy regarding the extent of the renovation. I suddenly felt this was a Disney-like stage set ready-made for national Romanism. While reconstruction was not new, I think my question is just how faithful the current state of “restoration” is based on historical accounts or paintings. While the restoration work on Malbork Castle, or Warsaw’s Old Town, began shortly after its destruction in World War II, Trakai Island Castle had been abandoned for centuries before its restoration. There have been plenty of historical drawings of the castle's ruin, but I don’t believe there is any visual account of how the castle appeared back in the 15th century.
A great place for some casual boating.
The floating footbridge to the island castle.
Fortunately, the restoration effort did not intentionally mask the age of the restored section. A clear demarcation line between the historical remnants and the new. I felt extremely conflicted, and I am glad I am not a preservationist by training. I am still surprised that this area, Trakai Historical National Park, has been nominated by Lithuania to be on the tentative list for UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The magnificent Vytinė.
Lake Trakai.
I must have taken hundreds of photos on that day.
For me, a true highlight of my visit to Trakai was the idyllic stroll around Lake Galve. Moored along the shore were also a couple of historic wooden sailboats. The showpiece is a vessel called Vytinė. They were a common Lithuanian trading vessel designed to transport raw materials down the river to the Baltic Sea. Squat and sturdy, the vessel has a natural majesty and mystique that was difficult to describe. And I could hardly imagine a better place for this historical vessel to call home. For those interested, the Vytinė vessel in Trakai was the only authentically restored in Lithuania. It also offers educational programs for kids of all ages.
The magnificent Vytinė.
The lakefront was dotted with numerous businesses for boat rental and other businesses catering to visitors. While developed, the lake never felt touristy. The beauty and serenity of the lake and the island castle were overwhelming. I only hoped to spend the whole afternoon on the lake to soak up such a beautiful afternoon. Like many others, I made the mistake of dashing out of town right after visiting the castle. I wish I spent a night in Trakai and got a room with a view of the castle. Just imagine waking up to the sunrise behind the castle.
My faithful Lonely Planet guidebook to the Baltic served me well.
Obligatory picture with my Lonely Planet guidebook.
Just before heading out of town, I decided to start my own new travel tradition: having my picture taken with my guidebook at the featured location of the guidebook cover. It was one thing to be able to take a picture at the exact spot, it was another level of luck that the light condition was so similar to the picture on the cover!
