An Ode to Finland & Helsinki

People always ask me, if I had to pick a place to relocate, where would it be? For the longest time, I often think of the Pacific Northwest or Portugal. It was not until my recent trip to Finland that I thought I might put Helsinki at the top of my list. I first visited Helsinki in May 2012 for a post-graduation trip through Northern Europe. Not knowing much about the city of Finland, I had zero expectations. Not only was Helsinki my first introduction to Finland, but it was also my first encounter with a Nordic country. Back then, I knew almost nothing about Finland. Frankly, I chose Helsinki as a springboard for my trip to the Baltic countries. Most preconceived notions I had of Finland are those for Northern European nations: high tax, homogeneous welfare-based society. But it was not until I visited Copenhagen and Stockholm years later that I could appreciate Finland's uniqueness from its well-known neighbors.

Finnish “Exceptionalism”

Fair or not, Scandinavia is a label erroneously applied to Finland. In its strictest definition, Scandinavia pertains only to countries around the Scandinavian Peninsula: the Kingdom of Denmark, Sweden, and Norway. Culturally, the three nations share many common history and customs. For centuries, Denmark and Sweden traded control over the Norwegian territory. All three countries have constitutional monarchies within the same linguistic family, with three national languages being mutually intelligible. People always talk about this pan-Scandinavian identity and cultural patrimony. But for whatever reasons, the English term "Scandinavia" seems to extend further to include Finland, Iceland, Greenland, and the Faroe Islands. What we Americans called Scandinavia is actually "the Nordic”

Enigmatic giants guarding the entrance of Helsinki Central Station, Helsingin Päärautatieasema, by Eliel Saarinen. — Enigmatic giants guarding the entrance of Helsinki Central Station, *Helsingin Päärautatieasema*, by Eliel Saarinen.

Even among the Nordic nations, Finland is still a little oddball. Part of the Finno-Uralic language family, Finland is linguistically and culturally close to Estonia across the bay. The Finnish language has absolutely nothing in common with the Scandinavian languages. While others may see their language as foreign and bizarre, I find it easy on the ear. Perhaps because it is an Asiatic language, I found many of their words and phrases not all that difficult to pronounce. On my first visit, I stayed at a hostel in the district of Töölö, and I was fascinated by that name so much that I decided to learn the pronunciation of special Finnish alphabets: Ö, Ä, and Å.

Mannerheimintie, one of the main commercial thoroughfare of Helsinki. — *Mannerheimintie*, one of the main commercial thoroughfare of Helsinki.

For me, reading various Finnish signage is a great joy while visiting Helsinki. Places like Ravintola KuuKuu, Ruoholahdenpuisto, or Kruununhaka certainly bring a smile to a face. Like German, Finnish also compound their words, and it certainly creates numerous entertaining words, intentionally or not, such as Epäjärjestelmällistyttämättömyydelläänsäkäänköhan, which means "With one's unorganized ways.” Of course, the length of a word could be extended infinitely and grammatically for anyone who cares to work at it. For those interested in "unusual" languages, Finnish/Estonian (and Hungarian) should surely be on their list for study. Just take a look at this tongue twister and tell me whether you are as impressed as I was:

Finland is a world away from average Danes, Norwegians, or Swedes. Despite being ruled by the Swedish for centuries, Finns did not gain some autonomy until the Grand Duchy of Finland was established under Tsarist Russia. Under the reign of Tsar Alexander II, the Finns were granted great autonomy within the framework of the Russian Empire. The Tsar instituted liberal reform, the constitutional assembly, the Diet of Finland, and gave Finland's own currency. Most importantly, the Finnish language was elevated as the national language, thus sawing the seeds of the National Awakening. Alexander II's liberal reform and tolerant policy toward the Finns earned him the reputation as the "Good Tsar" in Finland, even to this day.

Uspenski Cathedral, the mother church of Russian Orthodox Church in Finland.

Today, monuments and symbols of the Russian period are still dotted across Helsinki. In the middle of the Senate Square in front of the cathedral, stands a bronze statue of the "Good Tsar,” Alexander II's popularity in Finland persisted during the gradual ramp-up of Russification during the subsequent reign of Alexander III and Nicholas II. Interestingly, it was said that Finns left the flower at the foot of the monument as a protest against Nicholas II's conservative cultural policies. Just a block away is another obelisk monument in the middle of Central Market Square. The golden double-headed eagle of Russia highlights Finland's close historical tie with its tsars.

Eduskunta, the Finnish Parliament. — *Eduskunta*, the Finnish Parliament.

Despite its own struggles with the Soviet Union during its nascent years, Finland maintained a special relationship with Russia throughout the Cold War and even today. While the country has firmly allied itself with Western democratic values, Finland still maintains a non-confrontation relationship with Russia. The country joined the European Union in 1995 but decided against membership in NATO to stay true to the country's non-alignment defense strategy. It is not difficult to see why Helsinki was the site for the first summit between Donald Trump and Vladimir Putin. Finland emerged as a neutral ground and friend of all parties.

Equality And Democracy

If there are a few phrases that best characterize Finnish society, they would probably be equality and democracy. Without a history of its own monarchy, Finland is deeply rooted in its agrarian roots. Like its neighbors in Scandinavia, Finland established its social democracy before its rapid economic development. The subsequent prosperity through rapid industrialization brought wealth well-distributed among the population. This equality goes beyond the basic distribution of wealth and greatly emphasizes equity in healthcare, education, and healthcare. Experts and public policy advocates have ranked Finland the highest in public education and happiness over the past decade.

the late 19th century Old Market Hall, Vanha Kauppahalli. — the late 19th century Old Market Hall, *Vanha Kauppahalli*.

My experience traveling on Finnish Rail between Helsinki and Turku best illustrates this commitment to equality. As I was booking our tickets, I noticed that instead of having the choice of economy and or business class seats, the railroad offers an impressive array of seating classifications. Not only do they offer quiet cars like in some countries, but there are special seats for allergic passengers, pet spaces, family compartments, and dedicated children's playrooms on the train. In the United States, politicians often talk about family values and equality, but the American political climate and public policy they champion are anything but.

In many ways, Finland is also the pioneer of gender equality. In 1906, Finland, still a Grand Dutchy under the Russian Empire, became the first nation to grant full political rights to all women. Nineteen female members of parliament were elected the subsequent year. In comparison, the United States did not elect a woman, Jeannette Rankin, to Congress until ten years later. Sanna Marin, the current Finnish prime minister, is the youngest national leader in the world today. But perhaps most notably, her coalition government comprises five political parties headed up by women. Of course, gender equality goes beyond female representation in politics. The country also instituted the first paternity leave policy in the world and has the most generous childcare support system today.

National Pension Institute building by Alva Aalto.

As a tourist, it may be difficult to appreciate the gender diversity that Finland has achieved. But one of the best things you could do is to visit a Marimekko fashion store in Helsinki. After the decline of Nokia, Marimekko is arguably one of the best-recognized Finnish brands internationally. Marimekko, or Mary's Dress in Finnish, was founded by Armi Ratia in 1951. The company is known for its bold fabric print and bold silhouette. What made Marimekko most worthy was that it was a company run by women for women. Not only is their fashion a symbol of gender liberation, but women also occupy all roles in their business and design teams. Now, I am so far off from having any sense of fashion, but the spirit of Marimekko is so easy to fall in love with.

Back To Nature With Sisu

With a population of 750,000 in the metropolitan area, Helsinki is undoubtedly Finland's most populous metropolitan area. But you wouldn't know it. We were immediately put at ease when we landed at Helsinki Airport. For whatever reason, even the rush-hour traffic within central Helsinki seems quite subdued. Off the main drag, there was barely any traffic. The only sound we heard was the occasional clanking noise of trams. Besides that, the streets seemed virtually quiet, even among the stately residential streets lined with stores and street cafes. Our first meal in the city was a lovely prix fixe dinner at Ravinotla Toca. We were surprised by the silence, even in a small restaurant with full capacity.

Sibelius Monument, a beautiful monument to the greatest Finnish composer, whose works are intertwined with Finnish nature.

Compared to its neighbors in Scandinavia, Finns are often considered socially awkward recluses. Rick Steves used to tell a joke about Finns: an outgoing Finn will look at your shoes, instead of his or her own, when talking to you. But what Finns will probably tell foreigners is that they may prefer to be outdoors and be part of nature. Fortunately, Finland's low population density, countless lakes, and vast forests made nature easily accessible. By my observation, Finn's affinity for the great outdoors might be the substitute for religion in one of Europe's most secular (and yet spiritual) nations. Not coincidentally, the Fino-Uralic people were the last Europeans to be Christianized and retain many of the pagan rituals and beliefs.

So, what characterizes the soul of Finland? We all know the Danish word hygge, the intimate coziness, but I suspect the Finnish word Sisu might be the next big thing. It is one of those words that does not have a precise translation in English. The best translation others could come up with might be "stoic perseverance.” Perhaps the opposite of hygge, Finland's Sisu may initially not sound as appealing. However, the emphasis on stoicism could help with the appreciation of the basic necessities of life. Finland's early bleak economic environment and fierce resistance against the Soviet Union installed an ethic of simplicity and resoluteness.

Of course, Finns don't claim to have a monopoly on Sisu, and they often attribute similar traits and admiration for the Japanese and Nepalese. Perhaps this answers my questions about why there are so many Nepalese restaurants in Helsinki compared to Indian places. And even for the most casual visitors, it is abundantly clear that central Helsinki is overrun with Japanese tourists. I do wonder whether Finnish spirituality with nature has something in common with Shintoism in Japan. Finns find its nature to be the best reflection of sisu. From the birchwood furniture of Alvar Aalto to the Lapland-inspired glassware by Tapio Wirkkala, inspiration from nature is a constant element of any Finnish household. The music of Jean Sibelius, Finland's national composer, also took great inspiration from nature in his works. The massive Sibelius Monument in Helsinki in the Töölö District incorporates the spirit and movement of the sea waves and musical notes.

One of the best ways to experience a slice of Finnish nature in Helsinki would be a leisure boat cruise around the harbor. Fortunately for us, a boat cruise was included in our Helsinki Card. The hour-long cruise involved many of the city's most popular attractions: Suomenlinna Sea Fortress and Helsinki Zoo. But among the more unusual highlights is an impressive fleet of Finnish icebreakers; the guide was very proud of the Finnish Navy and the "heroic work" these icebreakers performed during the harsh Nordic winter. Like the Nepalese sherpas, these impressive vessels embody Finnish Sisu. It fits well within the national romantic vision of Finns as hardened souls. Of course, as a concept, Sisu could be quite a hard sell for the younger generation, who are accustomed to a high standard of living.

The Sauna Nation

Finn's sisu and love for nature also brought us the invention of the sauna, a Finnish word synonymous with a place for a bath around the globe. Nestled among the cruise route were the numerous villas set atop the glacial outcropping, but what caught our eyes was all the standalone sauna houses, most no larger than a backyard shed that is common in the United States. It is said that Finland has incorporated its sauna culture as part of its national identity. Unlike much of continental Europe, Finns, and neighboring Scandinavians adopted the custom of regular bathing very early. Throughout recorded history, saunas have not been a place for bathing and social gatherings; they are also a birthplace. As odd as it sounds, it makes perfect sense since it is typically the most sanitary place in the community during medieval times.

It is said that there are more than 2 million saunas in Finland, a nation of 5.5 million. Nowadays, nearly all private houses and apartments have their own sauna; the true community public sauna has become a bit of a rarity. But visiting the sauna is still very much a social event. Nearly all public buildings, from Parliament House to many large office buildings, offer a public sauna. It was not rare for politicians to discuss important political subjects or have office meetings in the sauna (while fully naked). For Finns, nudity is the best social equalizer since all worldly pretense like clothing or accessories is removed. Around central Helsinki, plenty of sauna-specialty stores cater to tourists and locals alike. Going back to Finn's love of nature and sisu, the sauna culture is perhaps their most intimate expression during their daily life.

Look closely to at the brown carriage on this Ferris wheel; you could enjoy the world's only sauna in the sky.

While we did not get a chance to partake in an authentic sauna experience during our visit, we enjoyed spotting some of the most unusual saunas in Helsinki. The first is the Skysauna, the world's only sauna on a Ferris wheel. Located on the water just by the central market square, it is one of the most recognizable landmarks in the city. At first, it looks like any typical Ferris wheel, but if you pay enough attention, you can see a special brown sauna cabin. But at 240 € an hour (per cabin), it is an outrageous splurge and tourist trap.

If you don't feel like being naked in the sky, you might opt for the world's only fast-food sauna in the one Burger King across from the Stockmann Department Store. In addition to your Whopper and fries, customers could enjoy a cold beer wrapped in branded Burger King bath towels. But at 240 € per hour (per sauna), it is also far from an everyday experience. The Burger King sauna enjoyed quite a great deal of popularity among the locals. The Finnish national ice hockey team celebrated here after their gold medal finish in 2019.

▲

Finnish “Exceptionalism”

Equality And Democracy

Back To Nature With Sisu

The Sauna Nation

Thailand Itinerary - Winter 2019

Pirita - An Enchanted Slice of Tallinn