Turku - A Classic Second City — Tuljak! Travel Blog

As the second city of Finland, Turku has always fascinated me. On our recent trip to Finland, I determined to venture out of Helsinki to explore a slightly different side of Finland. Somewhat surprisingly, Turku often carries a mixed reputation at best as far as tourism is concerned. But I often believe that the second city offers the best window into the soul of a country. They are often less susceptible to excessive foreign influences and have a chip on their shoulder. As a result of rivalry with the capital, second cities often carry greater pride that is unshakable. In the past, I always enjoy second cities such as Antwerp, Porto, and Tartu. So, when I looked to explore another part of Finland, Turku immediately sprang to mind.

I honestly knew very little of Turku, except it was formerly the capital of Finland before the establishment of the Grand Duchy of Finland under imperial Russia. Upon a little research, I found that Turku plays a host for one of the largest medieval fairs in Northern Europe. It just happened to coincide with our visit to Finland this time around. On our first full day in the country, we took a morning train from Helsinki. Unfortunately, part of the track linking the two cities was under maintenance, so we had to transfer to a shuttle bus in the town of Salo. It added an extra half hour to a typical two-hour journey to Turku.

Typically Finnish, the Finnish Railways (VR) was punctual, clean, efficient, and considerate. What impressed me the most was the classification of different available cabin classes. Besides the standard business and economy classes, VR offers private work compartments (with no extra cost!) and seats for hypoallergenic individuals, family cabins, and children’s playrooms. This demonstrates Finland’s priority of social equity and care for the young and those who are physically or socially disadvantaged. It highlights the thoughtfulness in policymaking and the high standards Finns expect from their government.

First Impressions

People often say that the first impression is everything, and I couldn't agree more with Turku's case. It confirmed my preconception about Turku as a cold and impersonal place. We got off our shuttle at the Turku Central Station, which happens to be located at the edge of town. The station is a beautiful piece of Finland's functionalist architecture from 1940. It was quite a tribute to Turku, perhaps for its industrial simplicity and primitive mass/weight. Our destination for the morning was the Turku Cathedral, the oldest part of the city. The half-hour stroll took us through the perfect slice of Turku. The architecture of the central city was decidedly modern without any artistic flare. It somewhat reminds me of the less charming part of Poland, albeit very tidy and well-organized.

Perhaps because we were here on a Sunday during the height of the summer, Turku seemed completely void of residents. The streets were empty, and there were hardly any private vehicles. It was as if the city had been evacuated before an impending disaster. Deceived by the long daylight hours in the Finnish summer, I was psychologically tricked into feeling we were already mid-afternoon. It was odd to see that most businesses remain closed until noon. There was an air of tranquillity and a dose of slight melancholy. The blocky cityscape and grand street grid we see nowadays resulted from a horrific great fire that gutted three-quarters of the city in 1827.

No visitor to Turku could not leave without understanding the role of the great fire in the history of Turku and Finland. Today’s Finnish cities seem decidedly modern compared to their neighbors like Sweden, Estonia, and Russia. The great not only moved Turku from its medieval roots but also erased much of the historical record of medieval Finland as some of the most important archives and the institution of learning were also consumed by the fire. However, wooden structures from Medieval times remain hidden amid the austere early modern buildings. While the drab modernist blocks grabbed visitors' attention, Turku still possesses a spectrum of architectural styles typical of Finland, ranging from neoclassical and national romantic to the wonderful functionalist modernism. So don't let the drab first impression of Turku deter you!

Is It Turku or Åbo?

One thing that we have been warned of was the name of Turku. Although the name Turku is short and easy to pronounce, the city also bears the Swedish name Åbo. As we learned, Finland has some of the strongest protection laws for its ethnic minorities, with Sweden being the most prominent and politically active. As an official language in Finland by the national constitution, Swedish is spoken by less than 6% of the total population in Finland today. As a former colony of Sweden, the country seems to have a complex relationship with its powerful neighbor.

Bilingual names for Turku above the entry of a local government ministry.

Indeed, Finnish, being part of the Finno-Uralic language group, shares little, if any, commonality with the Swedish language. Finns have little incentive to pick up one of their official languages. Still, Swedish place names grace many Finnish cities, including non-Swedish speaking areas such as Turku. For us foreigners, the only thing to be aware of is not to be alarmed when you hear over the intercom that your train is heading to Åbo rather than Turku.

Turku Cathedral

The number one point of interest in the whole of Turku is the Turku Cathedral (Turun Tuomiokirkko), our first destination for this morning. Even though it is not among Europe's grand or ornate cathedrals, it holds an important place among the Finns. As the mother church of the Evangelical Lutheran Church of Finland, this has been the national church since the year 1300, when it was the seat of the Catholic Archdiocese of Finland. The church started as a modest wooden structure in the early 13th century but was severely damaged by the 1827 great fire. Over the subsequent centuries, it was gradually rebuilt and has come to symbolize Finnish perseverance.

For an architect, Turku Cathedral is a mishmash of various architectural styles that truly confuses me. In a way, the church is a perfect chronicle of architectural development in Finland. The impressive and austere bell tower possesses its own unique charm. It is said that the noontime tolling of its bell is customarily broadcasted daily on radio stations throughout Finland, as was the Christmas message from the archbishop. One could easily see how the church was built and added upon. It has combined a vast array of architectural styles and witnessed the history of Finland.

One the most impressive Swedish organs in the world.

Our visit to the cathedral was perhaps slightly underwhelming. Without the depth of Finnish history, it may look like another European cathedral. As silly as it sounds, what makes Turku Cathedral stand out is the fact it is Finnish, as odd as that may seem. As one of the last corners of Europe to be Christianized, Finland is not particularly religious but more spiritual in the national psyche. Finns are not known for grandiose churches, as most are simple wooden churches where simplicity reigns supreme. A grand medieval cathedral like that of Turku is rare in Finland. For those with a little bit more time, visiting the Cathedral Museum in the upper gallery may help to put everything into context.

Old Great Square & River Aura

Just across the cathedral was the Old Great Square (Vanha Suurtori), the original medieval market of Turku. Today, it hosted the last day of this year's Medieval Market. By noon, the square was always mobbed with visitors. The fair was quite a thing to witness, and I should write a separate post about our experiences at the big fair. While almost all the neoclassical buildings we see today were dated after the great fire of 1827, it retains much of Turku's historical charm. Among them, the Brinkkala Mansion host the most significant and served as Turku Town Hall for a period of time. The area also has many charming medieval buildings that line the River Aura.

The Medieval Market was in the full swing now.

It didn't take us too long before we were overwhelmed by the crowd. We took refuge at Aboa Vetus & Ars Nova Museum, the medieval history museum of Turku. Coincidentally, the Medieval Market was first organized by the museum in the 1990s until the event took up a life of its own. I booked ourselves a brunch at the adjoining M Kitchen & Cafe, which is said to be one of the best brunch spots in Turku. While a true mob scheme and the buffet line were decent, they have excellent cakes! Afterward, we decided to head toward Turku Castle at the mouth of River Aura.

It is a 40-minute stroll along the embankment to the castle, and we opted for a walk beside the River Aura. Although Turku Cathedral may be the most notable landmark in Turku, its river defines the city's identity. The river ran through the middle of the city and was instrumental in its founding. Turku does not turn its back to the river, unlike other European cities. Today, the only traffic on River Aura seems to be the leisure boats. The river becomes the most important public space, like piazzas for Italians. The riverside promenades are lined with cafes, boathouses, and lovely parks. But what caught our eyes was all the permanently moored barges/boats that doubled as the city's favorite floating drinking spots. Even the Finns often come across as austere and reserved; the lighthearted side of Turku abounds along the river.

Who enjoy a couple of medieval jugglers?

The walk itself provides a lovely overview of Turku's cityscape. Aside from the drab concrete apartment blocks that seem to dominate modern Turku, there are plenty of swanky contemporary apartments and some of the most eclectic, handsome National Romantic buildings. The promenade is lined with whimsical sculptures that are both humorous and confounding. The sculptures of the two whimsical laughing children are particularly memorable, if not borderline creepy. Created by Finnish artist Kari-Petteri Kakko, his four sculptures at two ends of the bridge are entitled Today and symbolize the need to live in the moment. Indeed, Turku seems to have an affinity to unusual public arts, chiefly Posankka, the giant pig-duck.

Just a few minutes past the statues is the Föri, the only municipal ferry in Finland. Constructed in 1903, it is the shortest ferry route I have seen but also one of the most fun to observe. It is immediately reminiscent of the traghetto in Venice... ferrying residents from one side of River Aura to another in just 90 seconds; the service is free to all and runs continuously throughout the day. You might wonder why they don't just build a bridge since this section of River Aura is not wider or more technically challenged. The Föri has become an icon of Turku, and people have gladly given up the convenience in favor of a piece of the city's historical artifact. It just shows that something is more important than speed and efficiency.

Maritime heritage areas at the mouth of River Aura.

Just as we were approaching Turku Castle, the cityscape changed dramatically. The apartment buildings soon gave way to warehouses, cranes, and former shipyards. This area reflects Turku's heritage as a maritime city. Like most historical port cities, Turku has built the modern port away beyond the mouth of River Aura. However, the city retains this former industrial area as a cultural site. Fans of maritime history will be in love with the Forum Marinum and its historical collection of Finnish tall ships, many of which are open to the public. The most notable, Swan of Finland (Suomen Joutsen), is the 110-year-old vessel that has been part of the Finnish Navy since the 1930s. The area is marked with iconic crane towers that seem more like sculptural work nowadays than utilitarian use of the past.

Turku Castle

At last, we arrived at Turku Castle (Turun Linna), another symbolic remnant from medieval times. It was the center of Finland's military and administrative center under Swedish rule. It is also purported to be the most visited museum in Finland. At first glance, the castle seems very modest and uninspiring compared to the great castles of Europe. It neither has the majesty of Denmark's Kronborg Castle nor the fanciful interiors of Germany's Neuschwanstein Castle. Like Finland, it is understated and nestled within the riverside grove surrounding nature. But I knew from the moment I entered that such an unassuming castle must hold great historical value to be one of the most significant monuments in Finland.

Like the cathedral, the castle was added throughout the century and seems in constant flux. Almost the entire castle was open to visitors. With an admission price of €12, one could easily spend half a day going through all the rooms. Unusual for a state museum, all the staff dress in period costumes. For another €3 per person, you could partake in one of the guided tours. Given the spare rooms and our lack of knowledge of Finnish history, we could use the guide's knowledge. The labyrinth of rooms and staircases is dizzyingly complex; there is simply no easy way to keep track of all the rooms we pass through. As is usually the case, each room description is helpful but not particularly memorable.

Although it may look peaceful today, Turku Castle has witnessed many serious foreign and domestic sieges. As the seat of power in the Finnish realm, the castle was highly fortified and was the residence of the Swedish King on visitation and the Grand Duke of Finland during the Russian imperial period. The appropriately named "Royal Suite" was constructed. What I love about Turku Castle is the modern interior, furbished in the 1960s. It was just as contemporary as it was half a century ago. I was particularly fond of the light fixtures and the mid-century furniture. Honestly, I think it will make a beautiful mansion for modern living.

Aside from the rooms, the castle has a permanent exhibition, including artifacts ranging from historical costumes to porcelains, furniture, and archaeological remains. In the attic spaces is an exhibit showcasing the reconstruction of the castle itself. We learned about the extensive damages sustained by the Soviet bombing in 1944. Luckily for all of us, the restoration efforts seem to be faithful to great historical accuracy. In one room, a series of miniature models illustrate the castle's evolution throughout the century. To this day, its splendid banquet still hosts many state occasions for foreign dignitaries.

Isn’t this is just the most Nordic-looking space ever?

For some reason, we managed to go through all the exhibits, albeit quickly, just before their closing at 6 pm. It allowed us some time to take a break at their courtyard cafe. I discovered something I have been looking for in Finland: black licorice (Salmiakki) ice cream. The black licorice popsicle, in particular, is made by Finnish confectionery Fazer. It was difficult to describe the flavors, as it was as exotic as anything I had ever tried. At first, all I could taste was salt, and it took me a minute or two to find that balance with the sweetness and creaminess of the ice cream. It disgusted Brian, but I vowed to have one Salmiakki popsicle daily for the rest of our time in Finland.

They should reproduce this beautiful tapestry.

Following our visit, we took a walk around the castle, and it was not until we walked to the east side of the fortress that we could appreciate the imposing form of the castle. It became clear why the fortress has survived countless sieges and stood tall until today. Surprisingly, what made it memorable was the group yoga/dance sessions that took place on the lawn. The public dance session was not memorable, but a group of Korean ladies from a tour group joined them on the sideline. We got a kick out of it!

Turku at Dusk

After the castle, we were thoroughly exhausted. This was our first full day in Finland, and the long Nordic summer days seriously messed up our circadian rhythm. Oddly, the sun was still so far above the horizon at around 8 pm. While we were trying to get over the jet lag, it is also true that Nordic summer offers the most beautiful weather any traveler could hope for. We gradually returned to the city center along the river promenade. In the evening hours, life seemed to slow down further, even for a Finnish Sunday. The people of Turku crammed onto booze barges. Ahead of our 9:22 pm train back to Helsinki, we went for a Georgian feast at Ravintola Rioni. There is no way to cap a busy sightseeing day with delicious pkhali and kubdari. Georgian food has never failed us, no matter where we traveled.

There was something sublime about the industrial landscape.

As we boarded our train, we couldn't help reflecting on our day in Turku. What do we think about Turku? Does it warrant a future visit? Overall, I like Turku and the general quality of life the city seems to provide to its residents. It may not offer the marquee landmarks foreign tourists may be craving, but it offers a more authentic slice of Finnish urban life than Helsinki. There is no doubt that Helsinki is a dominant and magnet city in Finland, but dare I say that Turku is a must for any second visit to the country? While the Medieval Market may be somewhat of a major disappointment for us, Turku does have so much to offer that may not be obvious at first glance.

Honestly, I wish I planned my visit better and stayed a little longer. One major thing we missed big time was the visit to Naantali, Finland's favorite seaside town. Naantali is said to embody all the charm Finland has to offer in miniature. It is also home to both Moomin World and Kultaranta, the summer residence of the President of Finland. The two-hour voyage aboard a vintage boat such as Steamship s/s Ukkopekka is one of the most scenic journeys in the Finnish archipelago. If you were to visit Turku, make sure to plan a day out at Naantali.

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Turku - A Classic Second City