The Lessons From Adam's Peak

I have always been interested in the concept of pilgrimage ever since I was young. Although I have never been religious, I found the act of pilgrimage to enlightening to the soul. In many ways, pilgrims were among the first true travelers in the world. These journeys hold mystic powers beyond the final destination, from the four sacred mountains in China to the El Camino de Santiago. This is especially true in this age of modernity and technological advances. As one can easily see the Cathedral of Saint James on the internet or through virtual reality, the physical distance seems to matter less and less in theory. As a consequence, the journey became the destination in itself. Regrettably, I honestly could not name a single pilgrimage I have participated in, in any meaningful way, so far in my life. So when I heard of this climb of a sacred mountain in Sri Lanka, I was immediately intrigued.

I first read about Adam's Peak during my initial research into Sri Lanka. Located in the middle of the island’s hill country, the conical mountain peak has long been regarded as one of the most sacred spots in Buddhism. Having read up on the pilgrimage briefly, I pinned it on my map as a “maybe” destination for our two-week trip to Sri Lanka. Coincidentally, my friend and former colleague Ivy also planned a trip to the island nation, but we had missed each other by a few weeks. Given that neither of us had done full research on Sri Lanka, Ivy somewhat followed my intended itinerary. Interestingly, Adam’s Peak was one destination she wanted to visit. I texted her a week before our trip for her feedback on Sri Lanka. I got the feeling that she only marginally enjoyed the country, partly because of days of rain she encountered. But I was taken aback when she mentioned disliking her climb of Adam’s Peak. She described it as “skippable” if you are short on time.

Given the feedback, I was somewhat skeptical of this wildly popular pilgrimage. While it is located at the center of the hill country, it is somewhat out of the way from the main tourist routes, typically running from Kandy to the mountain town of Ella. Between our stops in Kandy and Nuwara Eliya, Adam’s Peak is in the middle of the Central Highlands, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is not exactly a quick detour for most travelers. For those who travel by rail, the journal would start at the town of Hatton and will require a 90-minute bus ride to the village of Nallathanniya at the base of the peak. Luckily, we got to travel in the comfort of a private car, but it is still a 3-hour drive from the center of Nuwara Eliya. From Hatton and onward, the scenery along the road was stunning. Undulating mountain ranges, scenic lakes, and limited developments make the region a sharp departure from the busier areas along the railway line. There was a general excitement when we first spotted Adam’s Peak. All I was thinking was that I couldn’t believe I would climb that mountain later in the night of darkness.

A Sacred Place For All Faiths

Officially named Sri Pada, the Scared Footprint in Sinhalese, Adam’s Peak is believed to bear the footprint of Lord Buddha. The legend first emerged in the fourth century and has been an active place of pilgrimage ever since. Partly due to its distinctive conical shape, the peak has always carried a spirit of mysticism and intrigue. Remarkably, the footprint has also been claimed by all faiths of Abrahamic religions; it may also be the footprint of Prophet Muhammad or the first step of Adam from the Garden of Eden, depending on who you might ask. Of course, being a Buddhist nation, the shrine atop the mountaintop is dedicated to the Buddha and has been added throughout the 20th century into a semi-sizable temple complex.

A ribbon of light toward heaven... what a sight!

Sri Pada has a very specific pilgrimage season from mid-December to early May. Not surprisingly, it also coincides with the region’s dry season. This area is transformed into a bustling hive of activities during this time. Plenty of amenities exist, from decent guesthouses, vendors, and rest stations. But it is often advised that no climb should be attempted during major public holidays such as the monthly full moon Poya days, during which time it may take more than six hours to submit simply because of the endless human traffic jams. That would surely be a festive, if not a comfortable, experience.

Mental Preparation

We arrived at our guesthouse, Tea Breeze Motel, in Nallathanniya at around 5 pm. Based on the research, the suggested start time for the trek would be 2:30 am. This will allow us enough time to summit the peak before sunrise. Of course, that suggested start time is based on individuals with reasonable physical fitness. From the balcony, we had an unobstructed view of the peak and marveled at its height now that we were basically at the trailhead of the pilgrimage route. I was seriously wondering whether we might have to depart an hour earlier to ensure I don’t miss the sunrise.

We ventured to the trailhead just before sunset to scout out the situation. Much to our surprise, there seems not to be a starting point. Instead, the beginning of the passage is lined with endless rows of colorful vendors selling anything from basic pilgrimage provisions to religious souvenirs. Rather than a peaceful path of quiet enlightenment, the atmosphere was festive and full of palpable energy. Before heading to bed early, we settled in a roadside eatery for dinner. Not surprisingly, there were plenty of foreigners around discussing their reasons for and strategy for their climb. We overheard that this young couple reached the top less than two hours earlier that day. That sets the mental benchmark for us. Perhaps three hours may be sufficient for the two of us? Taking advice from our Lonely Planet guidebook, we picked up two liters of water and various snacks before returning to our guesthouse for our early bedtime. As we looked out from the balcony as the night fell, the ribbon of light along the pilgrimage path to the mountaintop snaked up in front of us. Could we do this before the sunrise?

The Ascend

We set our morning call at 1:45 am and showered to refresh ourselves mentally and physically. Despite our short nap, we were ready to take the challenge. We set out for our hike at 2:15 am, which should technically allow you four hours before sunrise. Just as we exited our guest house, a young couple breezed past us and took off. Based on their pace, we were sure they would make it to the top in just 90 minutes. Brian and I certainly appeared sluggish compared to those guys. Just half an hour in, we crossed paths with our driver, Pula, who was returning from his hike. He told us it took him about two and a half hours to reach the mountaintop. His usual upbeat attitude made us think we could manage the hike well.

It took us about twenty-five minutes to reach the ornate Makara Torana (Dragons) Arch, which symbolizes the official starting point of the ascent. Under the cover of darkness, the massive stone gate looks more menacing than divine. We were seemingly transported back in time like 19th-century explorers; the expressive impression of Makara Torana would be terrifying if one attempted to climb during the quiet off-season. Not far from the gate, we came across the bell that every pilgrim rings to signify the purity of one's soul. As clearly instructed in a trilingual sign above, each person rings the bell the same number of times he or she has made the pilgrimage. While most rang once or twice, one man in front of us rang it about eight or nine times.

The slope of the path was pretty manageable and pleasant at the beginning. The path was illuminated to the top since we were there during the pilgrimage season. Along the path, we encountered numerous shrines, rest stations, and tea houses. With the sunrise waiting for us, neither of us took our time to investigate and contemplate the meditative nature of this pilgrimage. While I am no expert in various sects or branches of Buddhism, it was clear that each branch has staked out a position along the path. To us, they were simply a marker as we made our way up and wondered how much longer this may be.

We Were In This Together

Just past Sama Chaiththiya, an impressive white stupa, the slope became steeper, and it didn't take long for me to stop every five to ten minutes. As someone who is not particularly fit, I found the middle stretch of the pilgrimage to be particularly challenging. The steeper slope took a toll quickly, and I began incessantly checking my hiking app to track our progress. Interesting things happen when you are exhausted. You started to be sensitively aware of the surroundings at the point of exhaustion. Every turn and step became memorable because it was a struggle.

Soon enough, we started to recognize the faces of many of our fellow travelers. As many of us began to slow down, we started to develop camaraderie and began mutual encouragement. We started to make a team with this couple from New Zealand. The mutual encouragement, or shared helplessness, did encourage us to propel forward. Part of it was the drive for me not to lag behind a couple of 50-year-old New Zealanders. At around 4:30 am, I came across a step labeled "2,000". What was that about? I immediately thought that there were a total of 5,500 steps, supposedly. If the mark 2,000 indicated the numbering of steps, I still had so far to go. At this rate, there was no way we would make it up to the top in time for the sunrise. By my calculation, we would have made it to the top at 7 am.

We Shall Never Give Up

Weirdly, the second half of the climb felt remarkably swift and upbeat. The steadiness took hold of us, and we plowed ahead. Another 45 minutes from step "2,000", the climb became steep and winding. Despite our exhaustion, the steep ascends created a shot of adrenaline rush. But what inspired us was our fellow pilgrims. With no gondola lift or mechanical transport, the pilgrimage may seem impossible for the elderly or the infirm. On the contrary, many elderly ascended with the assistance of family members. At one point, I was even surpassed by an 80-year-old woman. Oddly enough, I did not feel a shred of embarrassment. Instead, we were deeply moved by the sights and marveled at the determination of the faithful.

Magical twilight & sunrise from atop Sri Pada

I met a three-general Sinhalese family descending as we approached the temple complex. The grandma said it took the family 8 hours to summit, and they were rushing to return before sunrise. Because of her bad knees, they estimated it would probably take nine hours to go down to Nallathanniya. So that is a 17-hour pilgrimage.... nonstop! Amazingly, she told me of her journey in pure joy even though it must have been very difficult for her physicality. The thought of that is perhaps the most moving experience of the whole pilgrimage. It is never about the journey; it is about the people and their dedication and faith.

The Destination Is Not The End

Shortly before 6 am, we began the final ascent to the mountain top. Although this is the steepest part of the pilgrimage, our morale could not be any higher. Much to our amazement, there was a well-run tea shop about two hundred steps below the temple complex. Many fellow pilgrims took shelter there because of the lowering temperature and increasingly fierce wind. Not wanting to miss out on our spots for the sunrise, we took no chance of resting. As we set our sights on the temple, I realized how packed the temple complex was. The scale and architecture of the temple are humble, but the energy and sense of anticipation are palpable.

On the temple's east side was a series of steps/bench seating, ideal for enjoying the view of the sunrise. Needless to say, the area was completely filled with spectators. It took us a few minutes to find our foothold at the very top of the temple platform. As is the Buddhist custom of Sri Lanka, visitors must remove their footwear upon entering the temple's inner sanctum. This proved challenging since standing on the bone-chilling stone pavement was not a contemplative experience. The staff at the temple enforced the rules vigorously. At the same time, it also pumped adrenaline into our spirits. We waited for another fifteen to twenty minutes before the actual sunrise. The howling wind helped build great anticipation and made it feel like an eternity.

Like all sunrises, I was amused by all the phones and cameras aimed toward the horizon. For me, the best sunrise would be the twilight on the surrounding landscape. Sri Pada certainly did not disappoint. Being a conical peak, it offers a perfect unobstructed panoramic view, and the parade of color from the twilight was breathtaking. It is always puzzling why the sunrise is always more cathartic than the sunset. Perhaps it is because sunrise signifies the new beginning; the air of optimism is high in everyone's mind. Complementing the views was the lovely musical performance by the temple's musical ensemble. The steady drumbeat and trumpet playing invoked the image of ancient rituals.

Reality May Be Irrelevant

Just before we staked out our position for the sunrise, we decided to take a peek at the sacred footprint that made Sri Pada the place it is today. The shrine at the mountaintop is essentially a small pavilion where the sacred footprint is housed. I was disappointed as the alleged footprint is encased in a golden sculpture, similar to a Christian reliquary. The golden footprint is approximately ten times larger than a normal human footprint. A team of monks guarding the footprint ensured no picture was taken. Honestly, seeing the actual encased footprint was anticlimactic.

The seemingly absurd idea of the sacred footprint did not detract from my appreciation of the pilgrimage. Like all things spiritual or religious, it is often the belief, rather than the reality, that motivates and inspires people. We all have a belief system that may not stand up to rational reasoning. The older I get, the more understanding I become of others' spirituality. Humanity becomes more beautiful as we appreciate the complexity and contradiction of the world's diversity.

At the side of the temple was another bell, which we rang once to signify the completion of our journey. At the temple's north side, we were greeted as one of the most sacred physical phenomena in Sri Lanka. The conical-shaped Sri Pada cast a perfect shadow of a pyramid upon the landscape. The shadow line became more pronounced as time passed until it gradually disappeared. It is not difficult to imagine how such a magnificent sight could conjure up the image of divinity. Perhaps this could be interpreted as the manifestation of the Holy Trinity. The phenomena also showed us the temporality of time and our life.

Nonstop performance in anticipation of sunrise.

As the sunrise materialized, the atmosphere became more sacred and less antsy. Shortly after the sunrise, the main religious ceremony began. The procession of priests and monks included numerous religious regalia. The already small temple complex became ever more crowded with devotees. Among them was a group of Buddhist pilgrims from Taiwan, and it was great to see my fellow Taiwanese at the top of this sacred spot in Sri Lanka. Despite their obvious exhaustion, I could see the excitement in their eyes, as many of them have looked forward to this. While the facilities at the small temple complex were basic, they offered many pilgrims a place of refuge and rest. Besides the counter for donations, it is refreshing to see that the place is free of the commercialism of typical Knickknacks. One could only hope this is the case as more foreigners discover the majesty of Sri Pada.

Same Journey But Different Perspectives

Many have come to Sri Pada to admire the sunrise. Sure, it was beautiful, but I found the contrast between the darkness and bright daylight to be the perfect metaphor for our pilgrimage. We ripped the reward from our struggle in the darkness. I could hardly imagine a more beautiful sight in Sri Lanka. Unlike anything I had seen before, the morning mist cast a beautiful hue on the surrounding mountain. It was as if somebody had taken a Bob Ross painting, making it more beautiful and surreal. I felt like we were watching a slowly moving painting, animating silently in the background.

Morning must among the surrounding landscape.

It was with deep regret that we had to head back down to Nallathanniya less than an hour after sunrise. Truthfully, I would have wished to stay at the mountain top for up to two hours to enjoy the scenery and the convivial activities. It was with a heavy heart we had to head back due to the 10:30 am. checkout time for our guesthouse. Interestingly, most of the foreign tourists were long gone before our descent. I felt Sri Pada may be a thing of a bucket list or a selfie spot for most foreigners. The beauty of this place is embodied in its people as much as the beautiful surroundings.

As we gradually descended from the peak, it dawned on us what a logistical undertaking this pilgrimage experience is for everyone involved. Indeed, the infrastructure surrounding the pilgrimage is a remarkable feat in itself. As stupid as it sounds, we forgot how this journey was often the daily commute for many. Without access to a ropeway or dormitory, the monks on duty made the daily five-hour trek up and down the mountain regardless of weather conditions. All construction materials, ranging from cement and metals, were brought up by bare hands, most often atop porters' heads. Seeing these porters made us realize how comfortable our job back home is in comparison. An army of men gradually made their way up as we descended. It was always heartbreaking to see older men irking out a living through hard manual labor.

Did I tell you that these steps are steep?

Returning on the same route was quite an interesting experience. The same steps brought us here offered different experiences and sensations during the daytime. Despite the extraneous hike, we have never felt better or more refreshed. We stopped by a trail-side tea shop for a quick and well-deserved rest. The hike down was brisk and easy, but it took a surprisingly long time to reach Nallathanniya. Along the way, we passed all the magnificent monuments we rushed past earlier. These include the beautiful white stupa and a series of peace bells. The local Singhalese pilgrims replaced the bustle of foreign tourists. Just this air of calm and serenity put us in peace.

Roughly half an hour from the summit, we encountered a set of staircase railings tangled with white strings. Almost resembling a dense web of spiders' nests, the origin of white prayer strings dated back to a much older time, when pilgrims drew string along the path to demarcate the pathway down the hill. Throughout the century, this necessary practice took on a more ceremonial role. Some have described these strings as a tear on Buddha's robes as he adjusted his garment at this spot before descending from the mountaintop. Some also explained these strings as symbols of past, present, and future continuity.

The last part of the trail was perhaps the most pleasant stretch of the pilgrimage as the trail winds through the tea field and cliff face. It offers an expansive view of the surrounding valley with countless waterfalls. Although short on time, we took some time to browse through many items on offer at the roadside stalls. Among the most interesting items were jelly-like snacks that are said to have the same medicinal effects as Red Bulls. People claim that it is an essential provision for the elderly or the weak who attempted the difficult pilgrimage ahead. They are perhaps similar to the betel nuts I knew from childhood. Indeed, one of my big regrets about our trip to Sri Lanka was not to sample one of these legendary treats.

The less menacing Makara Torana Arch in bright daylight.

Ultimately, it took us approximately as long to get back to Nallathanniya as it took us to hike up to Sri Pada. While difficult, the trail was in great condition, with amenities and nighttime illumination. I was particularly impressed by how tidy the whole route was. Sri Lanka has made a big push toward sustainability. This was not the first place in Sri Lanka where local authorities declared this trail a plastic-free zone. The large collection container on the trailside spoke to the importance of cleanliness for Sri Lanka, particularly around religious sites and tourist areas.

We didn't make it back to our guesthouse until 10 am. Standing at the front of it, we could not be happier knowing we had made it. Despite being so close to the official checkout time, the lovely owner prepared a splendid breakfast for us. Words could not describe the serenity as we looked out from the deck. We did it, and it was time for us to journey onward to our next destination: Kandy, the royal capital of Sri Lanka.

Practicality

Sri Pada is such a well-traveled place that no one should have trouble finding useful information from various bloggers or tourism sites. However, here are just some of the pointers we will give to other foreign travelers who might have read conflicting information from various sources:

Practicality

Regardless of your mode of transportation, you are likely to reach Adam’s Peak through the town of Hatton, a major stop between the popular rail route between Ella and Kandy. A direct bus connection between Hatton and Nallathanniya should be roughly a 70-minute ride away. Some buses may require a transfer to the town of Maskeliya. Let's not forget that the central highlands of Sri Lanka are listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The ride was quite scenic as you go through reservoirs, lakes, forests, and tea fields. The bus dropped off passengers at the start of the pilgrimage trail, and it should be quite convenient for those traveling on a tight budget. Many other foreign travelers opted for a tuk-tuk from the Hatton Railway Station. While a 70-minute journey might sound like a lot for a tuk-tuk, it will be highly entertaining.

Nallathanniya is a preferred home base for hiking Sri Pada. With plenty of guesthouses and amenities catered to pilgrims and foreigners alike, the town is laid out along the main road to the trailhead. During the peak of the pilgrimage season, it is advised to book ahead to ensure that you will get a room within Nallathanniya. Our driver had to stay in the next town over because every place was booked up for the entire week when we were there. While basic, guest houses always offer a good breakfast and the opportunity to socialize with fellow travelers.

The relaxing breakfast back at the guesthouse.

It is NOT necessary to climb Sri Pada with an organized tour. As this is one of the most popular pilgrimage routes in Sri Lanka, the entire route is well-maintained and illuminated throughout the pilgrimage season. It is practically impossible to get lost, even in the off-season. The entrance is free, and all donations are voluntary only. Even in the off-season, the trail, the mountaintop temple, and a few trail-side tea houses would remain open.

The only cautionary note is to avoid the climb during the monthly Poya holidays or in inclement weather; one should invest extra time in either of those conditions. The entire passageway is paved with concrete steps, so wear comfortable shoes and are well-rested. Regardless of the weather, it will definitely be cold at the mountaintop. Be sure to pack some warm clothing, particularly if you were to wait for the sunrise within the actual temple complex, since footwear is forbidden on the sacred ground.

One major ‘mistake’ we made was carrying unnecessary water and snacks with us. While there was certainly nothing wrong with doing that, it should be noted that drinks and snacks are available throughout the trail, even toward the mountaintop. While the price may be inflated toward the top, it simply reflects the labor of carrying everything up manually. A water bottle would still be cheaper than you typically pay for in the West. Basic toilets were also available throughout the trail, with charges ranging between Rs. 50-100 per visit. While most foreigners prefer to hike up for the sunrise, the pilgrimage is a 24-hour affair. As a result, many restaurants and shops at Nallathanniya remain open 24/7 during the pilgrimage season.

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A Sacred Place For All Faiths

Mental Preparation

The Ascend

We Were In This Together

We Shall Never Give Up

The Destination Is Not The End

Reality May Be Irrelevant

Same Journey But Different Perspectives

Practicality

Practicality

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