Qatar & Sri Lanka Itinerary - Spring 2019

As silly as it may seem, my initial interest in visiting Sri Lanka stemmed from another episode of Australia’s TV show, Travel Guides. Following our fantastic trip to Oman a year ago, we again looked to the new season of the hit TV show for inspiration. With Brian commenting that we should travel to Asia together, I began to take a serious look into the island nation of Sri Lanka. Like most foreigners, my presumption of Sri Lanka was that it was simply a microcosm of its enormous neighbor, India. Sri Lanka seemed like a more manageable and less intense version of India. Of course, I did not take long to learn the enormous differences in culture and history on the two sides of the Palk Strait.

Our two-week trip through Sri Lanka brought us through the popular loop around the southern and central parts of the island. It covered seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites, twelve cities, and a variety of climate zones. What surprised us the most about Sri Lanka was the diversity of landscape and sceneries. At the same time, we were extremely grateful for the weather we got. Strictly out of luck, we only had an afternoon shower over two weeks; that was nothing short of a miracle. Our friends Ivy and Vince visited pretty much the same places two weeks ahead of us and were completely soaked on most days. It just showed you how much luck played in traveling, particularly in a country with no distinct dry or rainy season. Given that Sri Lanka is an outdoorsy destination, only God knows how miserable our trip would have been.

Old gate of the Dutch fortress of Galle with the coat of arm of the Dutch India Company.

Toward the end of our trip, we were thoroughly exhausted. The seemingly small size of the island could be deceiving. Other than a couple of modern north-south tollways, the road infrastructure of Sri Lanka was decent, if not particularly efficient. We learned quickly that we needed to hire a private driver to make the most of our time, and we managed to cram in as many sites as possible until we reached mental and physical exhaustion. Oddly enough, our driver, Pula, became integral to our experience. He was our temporary best friend and window into Singhalese culture and history. We felt a true sense of loss and sadness to say goodbye.

So, will we return to Sri Lanka? Absolutely! If anything, this trip prepared us to take on the hustle and bustle of India and Pakistan. In some ways, it was an endorsement of Sri Lanka. This country was a wonderful introduction to South Asia. For our revisit, we will have to visit the island's north to experience the complexity of Tamal culture in Sri Lanka. It is safe to say that we have covered the tourist track this time and are looking forward to the adventure awaiting us when we return.

Day 1 - New York - Doha

Our trip started with a late evening flight from New York JFK Airport to Doha. It was our first time flying with Qatar Airways, and the first impression was exceptional. Compared to Emirates, Qatar Airways exodus a modern elegance. The catering was also exceptional, just one step ahead of Emirates’ economy class. The 12-hour flight went by quickly and landed in Doha just after sunset. Like Qatar Airways, Doha’s Hamad International Airport is a state-of-the-art facility sized just right for a quick transfer.

Known as an expensive destination, I was surprised that I could get a room at the brand new Al Najada Doha Hotel by Tivoli for a mere $105 USD a night. Most surprisingly, the rate also includes a chauffeur transfer from the hotel. We are generally frugal travelers, so we felt very pampered and somewhat uncomfortable. The hotel was fabulous and was just a stone's throw away from Souq Waqif, the main tourist draw in Doha. After check-in and a quick freshen-up, we ventured out to the souq for dinner. It was a surprise that there was a big cultural festival that weekend, and locals and visitors mobbed the souq. A parade of dancers from all over the Middle East and Central Asia made it somewhat madness. We enjoyed a delicious Iraqi meal at Aloosh Restaurant and wrapped up our night with a visit to a nearby dessert shop for a small box of baklava and kanafeh.

Day 2 - Doha

After an elegant breakfast at the hotel, we were eager to spend one full day in Doha. During the early morning hours, Souq Waqif was tranquil and a world away from the hustle and bustle of the previous night. With a bright blue sky, we visited the Museum of Islamic Arts, the one monument I knew in Doha. Designed by American architect I.M. Pei, the museum houses one of the Gulf region's largest collections of Islamic Arts. Aside from the gorgeous architecture and panoramic view of the Doha skyline, the museum’s collection is superb. We particularly enjoyed the special exhibition on the Syrian diaspora and the current migration crisis resulting from the ongoing civil war.

After the museum, we returned to Souq Waqif to enjoy a relaxing lunch at the upper loggia of Damasca One Restaurant. While perfectly delicious, we had no illusion that this was a typical tourist restaurant with inflated prices. Though we contemplated taxiing to Doha’s sparkling new business district, we decided to take more time to explore more of the souq at a slower pace. To our delight, the souq appeared to cater to locals as well.

Away from the obvious tourist knickknacks, the back lanes are filled with an authentic slice of Arabian life, such as the bird sellers. Just to the north end were the much-beloved Falcon Souq and Camel Souq. We genuinely enjoyed our afternoon in this ‘somewhat’ authentic souq. After a delicious meal at a local camel burger joint, we wrapped up our day to soal up the rest of the cultural festivity and sampled various street foods.

Day 3 - Doha - Colombo

After a morning flight from Doha, we landed at Bandaranaike International, the main gateway of Sri Lanka. While it is one of the less impressive facilities, they have some of the friendliest immigration officers I have ever interacted with. He practically thanked me for visiting his country; what a great impression of a country. We were on the road to our hotel after navigating through a maze of shops and what seemed like an eternity of wait for our pre-arranged shuttle to Colombo. I was quite surprised by the state of the good infrastructure in comparison to my prior experiences in neighboring India.

The medium-sized black pepper crab from Ministry of Crab in Colombo.

Being a short overnight stay, we stayed at the budget but centrally located City Beds The Regent. That was a decision we immediately regretted upon arrival. Fortunately, I had a dinner reservation at one of the most beloved restaurants in Sri Lanka for the night. Cleverly named the Ministry of Crab, it served up some of the most delicious seafood we have ever had on our travels. It seems like all the foreign tourists managed to pay a visit here. Our pepper crab and garlic chili prawn were divine; their kade bread was also to die for.

Day 4 - Colombo - Galle

The time difference and the subpar accommodation allowed us an early start for the day. Before catching a train to the coastal town of Galle, we had a few hours to kill in central Colombo. High on my list was a visit to the famous Red Mosque, a short ride away on a tuk-tuk. This being Brian's first time on this mode of transportation, it was a memorable ride. The mosque reminded me of Moscow's Saint Basil Cathedral. The forecourt is the only part opened to visitors that day.

Our train ride to Galle was an experience in itself. It sufficed to say that the Sri Lankan Railways could have made a killing by running a tourist train along this route. The two-and-a-half-hour journey hugged the beautiful coastline until reaching the colonial town of Galle. A short tuk-tuk ride brought us to The Bungalow Galle Fort, our home for the next two nights. Everything about this hotel, from the ambiance to the food, was perfect. Despite our reluctance, we managed to drag ourselves out of the Bungalow and watch the sunset along the fortress embankment. Although our dinner at The Kitchen left much to be desired, it was still a lovely evening in Galle.

Day 5 - Galle - Unawatuna - Galle

Brian was a little bit under the weather today, so I went around the Galle Fort for a photography safari. Like everybody else., it did not take long for me to fall in love with Galle. Galle is decidedly touristy as a colonial fortress town but still retains its large share of the local population despite the proliferation of boutiques and tourist restaurants. But you could discover bustling mosques and lively primary schools just a few blocks away. Galle also hosted a variety of regional government bureaus and cultural institutions. It is the best place in Sri Lanka to slow down and soak up the ambiance.

The small but magnificent Dutch Reformed Church in Galle

After an early lunch at The Bungalow, we ventured out to Unawatuna, which is famous for its white-sand beaches. Unawatuna is your typical Sri Lankan beach town with various vendors and beachfront eateries. It was a lively scheme and decidedly family-friendly. You picked a restaurant with a lounge chair and umbrella and enjoyed an afternoon in the sun. For those looking to spice up their beach experience, there are also opportunities for scuba diving and jet skiing. While I am not necessarily a big beach person, I do like to fulfill my promise to Brian for a beach holiday, albeit a very short and hectic one. We wrapped up our day back at Galle Fort with a lovely dinner at The Fort Printers, a former grand mansion that also housed one of the most important print presses on the island.

Day 6 - Galle - Koggala - Handunugoda Tea Plantation - Ella

After another sumptuous breakfast at The Bungalow, we went around the central Fort area in the morning to browse many galleries and boutiques. Today, we are going to Ella to begin our journey through Sri Lanka’s Hill Country. Through a staff member at The Bungalow, we hired our driver, Pula, for the remainder of our trip. Partly due to our experience in Colombo two days earlier, we decided avoiding public transportation would be more efficient. It was a weird feeling hiring a private driver for ten days; it was just not something we were used to. The drive to Ella typically takes somewhere around four and a half to five hours. We made two stops near Galle to make the most of the trip.

*Days-old sea turtle at the hatchery in Koggala*

The first stop was the "Sea Turtle Conservation Project" at Koggala. We had conflicting feelings about our experiences there. While it was exciting to see many species of indigenous turtles up close, we can’t help suspecting this is secretly a for-profit enterprise. From the sound of it, they collected baby sea turtles from local fishermen and nurtured them until their chance of survival in the wild was sufficiently high. While we did not regret our visit, it gave us much to consider.

About half an hour past Koggala, we stopped at the lovely Handunugoda Tea Plantation. Nestled within gentle rolling hills of forest, the plantation came with a good walking tour, where we got to sample wild cinnamon and black pepper straight from the field. This free tour also includes a complimentary chocolate cake and tea tasting. Of course, we were all directed to their tea shop, where we got to sample more than four dozen of the tea they produce on their plantation. While it was not obligatory to purchase anything, we did pick up a can of “The Exorcist Tea,” Then, it was a three-and-half-hour drive to Ella. It was already ten when we reached our hotel, Ella Heritage. The staff was very nice for extending our kitchen hours and the food was delicious.

Day 7 - Ella

Ella is often branded as everybody’s favorite Sri Lankan hill town. The wealth of nearby attractions makes Ella appealing as a home base for travelers. We started our day with a visit to the soaring Ravana Falls. We were surprised that much of the access to the upper part of the waterfall was blocked off. However, the coconut-knocking monkey more than made up for it. Pula suggested visiting Nil Diya Pokuna, an underground cave system that descended more than 100 meters toward an underground lake. Although we did not take up the opportunity, it looks and sounds very intriguing indeed.

We decided to head to a safer option: the Ravana Cave, which is allegedly the place where the mythical King Ravana kept captive Princess Sita, a tale that was well known in the Hindu faith. The twenty-minute hike rewarded us with a beautiful view of the surrounding valley. While there was not much to see inside the cave itself, it is believed that it was an entry point to an extensive cave network created by Ravana.

Our next stop was the famous Nine Arch Bridge, a relic of British colonial times and maybe the number-one Instagram spot in Sri Lanka. It was indeed both beautiful and crawled with foreign tourists. After lunch at Cafe Chill, we embarked on a late afternoon hike to Little Adam's Peak. This gentle 40-minute hike was an absolute delight; it combines the beautiful tea field with a dramatic view of Ella Rock. Knowing that we would be climbing the “real” Adam's Peak in a few days' time, we only hoped the view would be this magnificent. We ended our day back at the Cafe Chill before getting ready for bed in preparation for our train journey the next morning.

Day 8 - Ella - Nanuoya - Ramboda - Nuwara Eliya

A train ride through the Hill Country is one of the most popular activities in Sri Lanka, and the ride between Kandy and Ella is said to be the most beautiful of all. I pretty much designed my itinerary around this particular rail route. Despite its towering reputation, the fare for the second-class ticket was only Rs. 110. The two-and-a-half-hour journey was far from the torturous journey from Colombo to Galle a few days ago. Having read up on the journey, we immediately raced for a spot by the open door and hung out of the door during our journey. We actually had Pula transport our luggage and met us at Nanuoya, the gateway to Nuwara Eliya.

Hanging out off the train from Ella to Nanuoya

We decided to grab lunch at the Blue Field Tea Factory, which is also featured in the Travel Guides episode. Just like the factory tour at Handunugoda, the equipment was on display, and we were given some basic information on various teas and their fermentation process. As Brian said, once you have been to one tea factory, you have been to all. To escape the monotony of tea making, we decided to hike up to the Ramboda Falls with Pula. The roadside trailhead ascended steeply, and it took us twenty-five minutes to arrive at the baseboard of the upper fall. With a beautiful pool in front of us, I could not resist an opportunity for a swim.

After grabbing some tea and snacks by the trailhead, we finally made our way to Nuwara Eliya to check in to the Grand Hotel. A classic British-style establishment, it still retained much of its original charm and many of its original amenities and decors. While tired and dated by modern standards, it feels like we were traveling back to colonial Ceylon. True to the name of the Grand Hotel, the dinner buffet was very impressive, and you would not have guessed you were in a mountain town in the middle of Sri Lanka.

Day 9 - Nuwara Eliya - Nallathanniya

The town of Nuwara Eliya earned its place in many travelers’ itineraries because of its rich colonial history. The British colonists set up the country houses here due to its gently rolling hills and the cool breeze reminiscent of England. After a beautiful buffet breakfast, we ventured across the street to Victoria Park, one of the preeminent formal gardens in Sri Lanka. While rather barren in the middle of winter, the park was popular with locals and tourists for its formality. After check-out, we stopped by the quaint post office from the colonial period.

Central post office of Nuwara Eliya, a colonial artifact from the British rules. — Central post office of Nuwara Eliya, a colonial artifact from the British rules.

Our first activity of the day was a total bust. We decided to climb atop the Lover's Leap Waterfall. Legend has it that a young prince jumped from the top of the fall with his lover over the disapproval of their relationship with the king. After fifteen minutes of confusion, we gave up and decided to have a slow day, given our scheduled hike to Adam’s Peak late tonight. We had a lazy lunch at Calamander Lake Gregory, which offers a superb view of the lake and surrounding hills. Before our departure to Adam’s Peak, we visited Swarnagiri Maha Viharaya, a local shrine on the ridge that overlooked Nuwara Eliya. Pula walked us through the small religious complex and explained many local Buddhist practices and customs.

We began a two-and-a-half-hour drive to the town of Nallathanniya at the base of Adam’s Peak. Words could not describe my anxiety and anticipation as we saw the peak in the distance. We checked into our basic but lovely Tea Breeze Motel and had an early dinner and bedtime for our pilgrimage early the next morning.

Day 10 - Nallathanniya - Kandy

Waking up at 1:45 in the morning may not be the idea of a nice vacation, but it is worthwhile to embark on one of the great pilgrimages in Buddhism. Adam's Peak (Sri Pada) is said to host the footprint of Lord Buddha and has been attracting pilgrims for centuries. The tale of Sri Pada was well known enough to be noted by Marco Polo, and other faiths claimed the footprint. It is a footprint of Adam for Christians or that of Lord Shiva for the Hindus. For most foreign visitors, the sunrise atop Sri Pada was said to be the most beautiful in Sri Lanka. It took us almost four hours to summit (about 5,200 steps), and it was a definite physical challenge.

We arrived at the mountain temple half an hour before sunrise, just in time to observe the magic of daybreak. It was truly a magical experience unlike any other. As the sunlight basked surrounding mountains and lakes, I could see why this may be interpreted as the Garden of Eden. One of the most moving aspects of this pilgrimage was to observe the religious devotions: the power of faith that drives an elderly disabled woman to embark on this daunting climb is nothing short of inspiring.

Embarrassingly, it took us just as long to make our way down from the mountaintop, and we barely made it back to our guesthouse before the check-out time. Soon, we were on our way to Kandy, the nation's royal and spiritual capital. Along the way, Pula pointed out a couple of roadside attractions and oddities, including the Mile Zero marker and a memorial at Norton Bridge dedicated to the victims of Martinair Flight 138 that crashed there in 1974.

Crowd-pleasing cultural performance at Kandy Lake Club

As we got closer to the bustle and hustle of Kandy, our travel fatigue and physical exhaustion from Adam's Peak began to set in. The noise and traffic congestion of Kandy did not make a good impression. We decided to chill at Thilanka Hotel with a view over Kandy Lake. However, we did manage to venture out to the Kandy Lake Club, which happened to be next door to the hotel. As the nation's cultural heartland, Kandy is well known for its festivals and cultural traditions. Kandy Lake Club offers a nightly cultural show that was said to be the best in the country. While it was certainly a touristy venture, they also served as an active custodian of traditions and culture.

Day 11 - Kandy - Matale - Habarana

After a beautiful breakfast, we took a short drive to the most important shrine in the country: the Temple of Sacred Tooth. Housing a molar tooth of Lord Buddha smuggled off from India for safekeeping; the temple remains the most venerated place in Sri Lanka today. A UNESCO World Heritage Site in its own right, the temple is a hodgepodge of structures constructed throughout the century. We hired an impassioned guide to walk us through the history and the many facts regarding the sacred relic. It was our first experience hiring a guide, and we think it was quite worth it, given the complexity of the history of this place. The temple complex is immense, as it includes two museums of Buddhism and a curious museum dedicated to a temple tusker elephant named "Raja.”

Ulpange (Queen’s Bathing Pavilion) at the bank of picturesque Kandy Lake . — Ulpange (Queen’s Bathing Pavilion) at the bank of picturesque Kandy Lake .

As the second city, Kandy has many attractions that warrant a few days' stay. Unfortunately, we were only allowed two hours before our next stop. An Irish couple we met at Ella recommended a private cooking class at Thotupola Residence. Unfortunately, our schedule didn't quite work out, and we opted to visit Helga's Folly, an eccentric hotel/cafe unlike anything you would think of in Sri Lanka. It was a place that was so peculiar that you wonder how they managed to stay open as a business.

Unassuming yet lovely Aluvihare Rock Temple.

On our way to Habarana, we stopped at Matale, which has always been a center of Buddhist learning. Dare I say that the Aluvihare Rock Temple was perhaps the most memorable temple we visited on this trip? Here, we learned about the tradition of Ola leaf writing and that Prince Philip sustained a major fall right at this temple. Before long, we arrived at Aliya Resort. With a giant infinity pool and an unparalleled view of Sigiriya, this place is easily the best value for money.

Day 12 - Habarana - Polonnaruwa - Minneriya - Habarana

Today was a maddening day as we began to tackle the famous Cultural Triangle of Sri Lanka, which encompasses four different UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Our first point of attack was the ancient city of Polonnaruwa, about an hour away from Habarana. Just like its cousin, Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa was once the capital of a mighty kingdom. We could easily spend the entire day exploring the sprawling city, provided we packed the picnic. The architectural ensemble at Polonnaruwa was both culturally accessible and delightful to experience.

The Sacred Quadrangle, Audience Hall, and Royal Palace are among this trip's most interesting and animated ancient sites. Of course, Polonnaruwa is also home to numerous Buddhist shrines and giant stupas. But also what makes this place unique is the preservation of the ancient city itself, including monk dormitory, refectory, grain storage, and ordinary markets from a millennium ago. While an enjoyable destination, our visit was ruined by an overly expensive and incompetent tour guide. Oh well, what else could we do about that?

With Pula and a private guide at Minneriya Wildlife Park.

After a quick lunch, we proceed to Minneriya for a safari tour at a wild elephant reserve. Like everything else in Sri Lanka, elephant safaris in each region have a distinct high and low season. Without extensive research, we arrived at the wet season in central Sri Lanka. That means the elephant herds need not gather near the water source, making safari trips more challenging. With the accompaniment of a driver and a safari staff, we were in good hands for our three-hour safari at the Minneriya Wildlife Park.

Waiting for the crossing for a herd of wild elephants.

The safari park was packed with safari jeeps for the low season! There must have been three dozen jeeps waiting at the park entrance. The giant caravan made us suspicious of the likelihood of elephant encounters. Our anxiety quickly dissipated as the sun was setting toward the horizon. It was a rewarding first-time safari experience with close encounters with these magnificent animals. Then, it was only a fifteen-minute back to the infinity pool at Aliya. What a beautiful day this was.

Day 13 - Habarana - Sigiriya - Anuradhapura - Habarana

Today was another hectic day for UNESCO World Heritage Sites. We started at Sigirya Rock, arguably the most iconic tourist site in Sri Lanka. Often referred to as the Lion Rock, Sigiriya's lonesome profile in the landscape made it an instant Instagram-worthy spot. At Rs. 4,500 per person, it is also the single most expensive attraction in the country. I have to admit that the sight of the rock fortress was impressive. The ceremonial approach is dramatic, and one can only imagine what a dramatic experience it must have been centuries ago.

Along the route, we were greeted with the century-old cliffside murals and an infamous "mirror wall.” After a fifteen-minute hike, we arrived at the Lion's Gate, the ceremonial entrance flanked by the giant sculptural remnant of the lion's paws. Unfortunately, Brian's severe acrophobia and the previously looking staircase deterred him from going further. The views atop the palace ruin were superb, and the Kandalama Lake vista was sublime.

After Sigiriya, the 90-minute ride took us to the ancient city of Anuradhapura. We stopped at Hotel Udara for a quick lunch buffet. Anuradhapura encompasses an extensive area that is not entirely realistic to cover on foot during a short visit. In contrast to Polonnaruwa, it is still an active religious complex, with the stupa of Ruwanwelisaya being the centerpiece of religious life and a recent aberration site. Nearby is Sri Maha Bodhi, the oldest tree with a documented planting date. Planted in 288 BC, the Bodhi tree is protected with elaborate measures ranging from golden scaffolding and military guards. It was fascinating to see the extent of their efforts to conserve a barely alive tree.

Day 14 - Habarana - Dambulla - Kandalama

This morning, we said goodbye to Aliya Resort. Even though it was not overly fancy or elegant, it was one of the loveliest places we stayed at for a while. Our only stop for the day was the Cave Temple of Dambulla, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. The cave temple complex comprises five chambers carved from the overhanging rock face. The temple was teeming with pilgrims and school groups as an active religious site. These caves are in remarkable condition and of extraordinary artistry. The most splendid of them is the Cave of the Kings, which contains about five dozen Buddha statues and wall-to-wall ceiling murals. At the foothill of the cave temple was a separate temple with a giant Buddha statue, which may cause some confusion to visitors as UNESCO named the site the "Golden Temple of Dambulla.”

Having finished the only stop for the day, we headed half an hour away to our next hotel, which is a destination of itself. Heritance Kandalama Hotel was another spot featured by Travel Guides. It is an architectural masterpiece of Sri Lankan architect Geoffrey Bawa and a prime example of Tropical Modernism. Set within the tropical landscape, the hotel was built right into the jungle. No matter where you go, you are surrounded by wildlife and beautiful views across Lake Kandalama toward Sigiriya.

After a quick bite at the cafe, we were eager to try their infinity pool, which overlooks the lake and surrounding jungle. Of course, no pool experience in the jungle could not go without the company of a gang of wild monkeys. The hotel was even explicit about the danger of monkey intrusions into our guest room. After a hectic dinner, we had a relaxing evening and let the night take us into our dreamscape.

Day 15 - Kandalama - Negombo

Words could not describe how well we slept last night. We explored the hotel this morning and came across an ancient plaque for LEED Bronze accreditation. This turns out to be the first hotel in the world to be LEED accredited and the very first LEED building in Sri Lanka! After checking out, we took a final drive with Pula to Negombo. We were sad to say goodbye to Pula, even though I was sure he would have been very happy to return to his family in Galle. During the past ten days, he has become an integral part of our trip, and we would like to think we were not bad company.

Beautiful visa at the Heritance Kandalama Hotel.

We spent the remainder of our day relaxing at Heritance Negombo. While photogenic, the expansive sand beaches are not ideal for swimming due to the choppy waves. Luckily, the hotel’s beachside lounge chairs offer a beautiful view of the Indian Ocean. And the traditional wooden sailboard moored on the beach certainly added to the ambiance. After a delicious seafood curry at the Mad Dogs Bodega, Banyan, we took full advantage of the pool bars. I don’t think we have ever lingered around a pool for this long. It was also a great time to reflect on our trip. Our day ended with a magnificent buffet at Heritance’s Bluetan Restaurant.

Day 16 - Negombo - Doha - New York

Awaiting our flights back to New York in the late afternoon, the staff at Heritance offered us a spare room to shower after checking out our room. Having cloistered ourselves inside the resort during our entire visit to Negombo, this was our first look around the town. It did not take long to notice how many Catholic churches there are in Negombo. There are statues of the Virgin Mary on many street corners.

Little did we realize that Negombo would be the epicenter of anti-Christian terrorist attacks just a few months after our visit. Knowing how Sri Lanka has come to wrestle with their fragile post-civil war reconciliation between the Hindu Tamils and Buddhist Sinhalese, words could not express our sorrow when we heard the news. No visitor to Sri Lanka could come away not impressed with Sri Lanka's resiliency after tragedies, whether man-made or natural. Thank you, Sri Lanka, for such a wonderful time. You have shown us your grace and hospitality; we will always keep that in our hearts.

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