Kandy - The Sacred City of Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka is not exactly known for its bustling cities. Famously, the capital of Colombo earned a reputation as one of the most charmless metropolises. When we arrived at Kandy, I had very low expectations. Our arrival at Kandy was honestly quite a blurb. Having just climbed the Sri Pada (Adam's Peak) that morning, we felt dazed and too lazy. However, our first impression of Kandy was not particularly favorable. The traffic and noise could become quite overwhelming, just like in Colombo. When we got into the Kandy city proper, it was only three in the afternoon. However, the intensity of diesel fumes and the chaos of Kandy deterred us from further sightseeing for the rest of the day. Embarrassingly, We ended up parking by the pool at the Thilanka Hotel.
Ulpange (Queen’s Bathing Pavilion) at the bank of picturesque Kandy Lake .
Despite our exhaustion, we were pleasantly surprised by the scenic cityscape surrounding Kandy Lake. Conceived in the early 19th century, the lake was constructed under the order of the last monarch of the Kingdom of Kandy, Sri Wickrama Rajasinghe. Built with enormous expense and manpower, the lake provides a beautiful setting for the sacred temple and his enormous palace complex. One of the most talked-about legends was the idyllic island at the lake's center. It was rumored that the king used to house his harem there, and a secret tunnel existed between there and the palace. My favorite would be the Ulpange, the private bathing pavilion for the queen and her attendants.
The statue of Anagarika Dharmapala in front of Temple of the Sacred Tooth.
The lush greenery and wildlife make Kandy Lake magical. What never ceased to amaze us is the diversity of wildlife in Sri Lanka, even in the middle of the second city. Aside from the wide variety of bird species, we came across water monitors, toque macaques, and alien turkey-faced ducks. The peaceful coexistence between humans and these wild animals corresponds with Buddhism's deep-rooted influences in Sri Lanka. To add to the atmosphere, a series of speakers are set up around Kandy Lake; the low and constant chants by the Buddhist monks are broadcast live from inside the temple. If it was not for the constant traffic around the lakeside ring road, Kandy Lake may very well be the most beautiful sight in Sri Lanka.
Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic (Sri Dalada Maligawa)
For Sri Lankans and foreign visitors alike, Kandy's status as cultural and historical capital is deeply rooted in one relic, the sacred tooth of Lord Buddha. According to common belief, the left canine tooth was retrieved from Buddha's cremated body by Buddha's disciple, Khema. It is widely believed that Buddha instructed four separate canines to be taken for veneration. Among the four tooth relics, the one possessed by the monarch of Kalinga in modern-day India attained a particular following among the faithful.
While the other three-tooth relic was buried underneath a stupa, only the fourth tooth owned by the Kingdom of Kalinga was left unburied for veneration. By the fourth century, Kalinga was embroiled in bloody warfare and risked losing the precious relic. The tooth was 'smuggled' away by Prince Danta and Princess Hemamala to modern-day Sri Lanka for safekeeping. It was said that the tooth was hidden in Princess Hemamala to avoid detection of the passersby.
“Natha Devale”.
One of the numerous minor stupas.
The relic found its first home in Sri Lanka in Anuradhapura, the royal capital city at the time. The king placed the relic atop the throne but eventually encased it in a reliquary, given the level for veneration. The importance of the tooth only grew with time and became the symbol of the island nation. It is often said that whoever is in control of the tooth relic could claim to be the legitimate ruler of Sri Lanka. Various subsequent monarchs even went on to prefix the term 'Datha' (Tooth) to their name, e.g., Dathopatissa, Dathappabhuti, Dalamugalam, etc. The tooth relic moved between various cities with the shifting political landscape on the island. Many ancient cities such as Polonnaruwa, Dambadeniya, Yapahuva, and Jayavardanapura Kotte all hosted the holy relic and became places of pilgrimage.
Entrance to the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic.
“Paththirippuwa' the distinctive octagonal room of the temple.
Throughout history, foreign monarchs often asked Sri Lankan kings for the relic on a loan. Wisely, the replicas were dispatched and traveled as far as China and Myanmar. If all the legends surrounding the relic tooth are true, it is remarkable that Sri Lanka could hold on to the holy relic for 1,800 years. In some regard, the long and treacherous history of the relic became part of the national consciousness. Things got interesting with the arrival of the European colonialists. The Kingdom of Kandy was the last Sinhalese monarchy to hold on to its autonomy until a well-orchestrated coup in 1815 by the Kandy nobility and British colonists based in Colombo. After the king's disposal, the British authority contemplated removing or destroying the holy relic. They were promptly advised that such action could lead to widespread insurrection against the British in Sri Lanka and across much of Southeast Asia.
Entrance to the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic.
Today, Kandy serves as a "Vatican" of the sort in the realm of Buddhism. Although the sprawling complex is tiny compared to the Holy See, the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic possesses the same mysticism. As an important pilgrimage site, the dress codes are in place to ensure modesty: no shoulder and knee shall be exposed for both men and women. As in Buddhist temples elsewhere in Sri Lanka, the preferred clothing color is white, but not required. The white color represents purity and a genuine sense of peace despite the throngs of pilgrims filing through the entrance. Following our driver Pula's guidance, we each purchased a beautiful flower offering (Rs 100 each), just like all the Sinhalese pilgrims. Needless to say, we felt both fit in and alien simultaneously.
Getting ready for the temple visit with the fresh flower offerings.
Arriving at the center of the complex.
The forecourt of the temple.
After paying the Rs 1,000 foreigner admission fee for each of us, we hired a guide to help us get the most out of the historically and religiously important place. A professional guide at this temple is the most worthwhile of all the places we visited in Sri Lanka. Our guide, nicknamed "John," was a fast talker, but you don't feel he was purely robotic or disinterested in the subject. He was immensely knowledgeable about every aspect of the temple and very proud of the role Sri Lanka serves as the custodian of the most precious relic in the world. You could feel the excitement he exalted with all the times (five actually) he saw the tooth relic in person.
As we approached the main entrance of the temple, John reminded us of the horrific event that took place on the 25th of January 1998. The militant group Tamil Tiger detonated a suicide truck bomb right at the main entrance of the temple. Three suicide bombers crashed through the police barricade in the early morning hour. The blast killed 17 and injured two dozen more. Much of the entry pavilion, front loggia, and countless glass windows and artworks were lost. The attack took place at the height of Sri Lanka's prolonged civil war with the Tamil separatists. As a show of force, Kandy was selected as the site of the country's celebration for the 50th anniversary of independence from Britain. With Prince Charles due at the ceremony just a few days later, the attack proved to be particularly devastating and embarrassing for the Sinhalese authority.
The moat.
The brand new moonstone that was installed after the terrorist attack.
Upon entering the main portico, we arrived at a small inner courtyard. According to tradition, this is where they park their ceremonial elephants, which will be stationed on the annual special festival, Esala Perahera, held every July. Legend has it that possession of the holy tooth relic in the 3rd century A.D. stopped a long-lasting drought. It has become Kandy's most important religious festival, if not the most important in Sri Lanka. The multi-day festival is filled with traditional dances and elaborate costumes. But most of all, the procession is best known for its elephants. Typically of three, these enormous elephants were decked with full royal regalia. These elephants are so revered that there is a dedicated museum to the most iconic elephant in the modern history of Sri Lanka called Raja. While it will certainly get PETA a heart attack, the sights and majesty of the tusked elephants are sights to behold.
The mural scheme of Esala Perahera and the three ceremonial elephants.
Beyond the forecourt, we passed through an archway to arrive at the inner sanctum of the whole temple complex. The atmosphere was festive and full of different moving parts. Case in point, the group of drummers and trumpet players guarding the entry said to perform for hours without a break. The throngs of pilgrims made the places lively without being chaotic. Like the Vatican, the temple complex comprises a series of different chapels for veneration, such as a crystal Buddha statue.
But a real highlight among them is Paththirippuwa, the octagonal pavilion. Built by the last king of Kandy, the uniquely shaped room was originally conceived as a place where the king would greet his subjects and display the holy relic. Unfortunately, his rule was short-lived, and this pavilion has been transformed into the depository of the temple's most precious palm-leaf manuscripts. The view of the Kandy Lake was spectacular, and it was not difficult to see why the King might enjoy this lovely perch.
The Tooth Relic
Of course, no visit to the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic is completed without seeing the sacred relic itself. Just like many holy relics, viewing the holy tooth is strictly controlled. This builds up the anticipation. Like the throne of Saint Peter's, the tooth is encased in a series of reliquaries casing. Even before my arrival in Kandy, I have been busy googling for pictures of the actual relic. Disappointedly, the actual photograph I found was less than convincing. Based on the few surviving photographs, it is shaped more like a baby elephant tusk rather than a human-canine. But I guess whether it is the true tooth of Buddha is perhaps beyond the point at the time of history. Today, the relic is completely encased beyond recognition. But on the other hand, it might be better to conceal the relic since it would not arouse any suspicion.
One of the only few pictures of the actual tooth;
The ornate reliquary of today.
The holy relic is housed on the upper level of the temple. There are separate entries for us general visitors and another for those pilgrims who wish to venerate the holy relic up and personal.... well, relatively at least. Lucky for us, we came at the right time, at 10:30 am, to witness the opening of the chamber of the relic. But even when the gate was closed, all the devotees waited patiently. For casual visitors like us, we were contented to leave the precious viewing slots for the locals.
The elaborately carved ceiling on the central pavilion.
The sacred tooth is just behind that golden door.
The overflowing flower offerings.
A long table for the offering was set up along the audience hall, and we were instructed to make a silent prayer before placing our floral offerings on the table. But because of the endless stream of worshippers, your offerings will likely be "recycled out" within a few minutes. Being the thrifty person I am, I waited for the attendant to clear away the offerings before placing my offerings. Seeing your offering go straight to the trash right before you seemed wrong.
Audience Hall
Undoubtedly, one of the most impressive structures within the sprawling campus is the impressive Audience Hall (Magul Maduwa). The simplicity of its architectural form stood in sharp contrast with the circuitous nature of the main temple. Even though considered a temple complex, the surrounding ground was the royal palace for the Kingdom of Kandy. The open audience hall is where the king meets with his cabinet, conducts official business, and receives foreign ambassadors. The structure is reminiscent of the ruin of the 'parliament building' in the ancient city of Polonnaruwa. It is said that each column bears a unique and elaborate carving to indicate the duties and ranks designated for each individual minister. And in comparison to the ancient parliament building, the surviving structure in Kandy is quite impressive. Even without vertical walls, it feels very secure and peaceful.
Simple and elegant Royal Audience Hall.
This spectacular audience hall holds specific significance in the history of Sri Lanka. The Kingdom of Kandy was the last Sinhalese monarchy before being subjected to British rule. Like many colonial conquests, the demise of the Kandy Kingdom was partly due to its own undoing. Due to the widespread unpopularity of King Sri Vikrama Rajasinha, the local Sinhalese aristocrats conspired with the British to overthrow the monarchy. In 1815, the Kandyan Convention officially ceded the kingdom to British Ceylon with the condition that the ranks of the Kandyan nobility would be retained. The treaty officially ended over 2,500 years of Sinhalese autonomy in Sri Lanka. This dramatic historical event took place right at this pavilion. Only just two years after the treaty, the last remnant of the indigenous political system was eradicated with the outbreak of the Uva–Wellassa Rebellion against the British.
Looking toward where the throne of the monarch was.
Just west of the Audience Hall is a glass pavilion where locals light their incense along the long row of oil lamps. Pula explained that in Sri Lanka, all such lamps are fueled by coconut oil rather than the candles typical in Western culture. The heat inside the pavilion was intense, and I could imagine how beautiful of a sight this must be at night. Indeed, one of the recommended times for a visit is the evening prayer hour at around 6:30 pm; for those of us who have to miss out on the Esala Perahera festival, visiting the temple after dark will surely give one a taste of the festivity. Overall, this is just about the most lovely spot in Kandy.
Beautifully preserved architectural details.
Royal Audience Hall.
The incensed hall.
A few steps north, you will reach the quirkiest part of the temple complex. The small rectangular structure is the Museum of Raja, perhaps the most famous tusked elephant in the world. As the chief elephant for the Esala Perahera for over 37 years, Raja achieved early fandom for its muscular stature and mellow temperament. As we would later learn, only a tiny fraction of Sri Lankan male elephants bear tusks, and any tuskers automatically become an instant star. Raja was such a national icon that the president of Sri Lanka declared a national mourning when Raja passed away in 1988. His images have appeared on stamps and also in national currency. Raja's body was stuffed and is now on permanent display along with his molar and countless historical artifacts. It is at once a very fascinating and morbid museum. Who would have thought there was a shrine to an elephant in the Vatican of Buddhism?
Alut Maligawa & Sri Dalada Museum
For those with additional time, there are more than a couple of attached museums inside the temple complex. Immediately next to the main chamber of the holy relic is a three-story shrine named Alut Maligawa. The large prayer hall houses a dozen Buddha statues donated worldwide, including Japan, Thailand, Myanmar, Thailand, and the rest of the Buddhist world. In many ways, it cements Kandy as a center of Buddhism. Looking around the wall-hung tusks around the hall, I can't help wondering about the illicit ivory trade.
Alut Maligawa shrine.
Not surprisingly, our guide quickly jumped in and clarified that all the tusks came from ceremonial temple elephants, which enjoyed a peaceful death in old age. Around the main hall were twenty-one paintings illustrating the history surrounding the relic tooth and the temple. Each panel includes inscriptions in Sinhalese, Tamal, and English. So, for anyone who decided not to hire a guide, these exquisite paintings offer a wonderful overview of the history, including interactions with various colonial powers from the Portuguese, Dutch, British, and Chinese.
Above the prayer hall are two floors of exhibition space filled with numerous historical artifacts. While the presentation is not top-notch, it is still worth browsing. Aside from the royal regalia and historical instruments, there is also a series of interesting photographs documenting all the former temples that once housed the holy relic. Another point of interest is records of the destruction resulting from the 1998 bombing by the Tamil Tigers. The extent of damage highlights the threat of ethnic and religious extremism. Amazingly, the descriptions concealed any message of ethnic identity politics. They approach the whole event as a matter of historical fact. Perhaps this is reflective of Buddha's teaching of forgiveness and tolerance. As the national shrine of Sri Lanka, the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic strives to be a place of healing rather than division.
Alut Maligawa shrine.
Alut Maligawa shrine.
Visiting a place of worship has always been a big part of our trips. I could honestly say that our visit to the shrine was quite a cathartic experience, head and shoulder above any other temple that we visited in Sri Lanka. Is the place touristy? Yes! But don't let foreign tourists deter you. There are too many parts of this palace/temple complex to explore. It is a place where one should allow oneself to be fully immersed in the rituals and not be rushed. The superficial chaos of the place would eventually fade in the background before the inner peace eventually takes hold of you.
