Vilnius - The G-Spot of Europe? — Tuljak! Travel Blog

Of the three Baltic capitals, Vilnius is often considered an afterthought. It neither has Tallinn's medieval charm nor Riga's grandeur. For whatever reason, I still don’t understand that most visitors to the Baltic countries tend to travel in Helsinki and end in Vilnius. I have heard often that Vilnius is somewhat of a letdown and does not quite have a look at a historic European capital. As a fan of everything Baltic, I had to admit that I was quite perplexed by Vilnius during my visit. While the city has no shortage of beautiful architecture and historic monuments, I found it difficult to sum up Vilnius in just one sentence.

Image Credit: Vilnius Tourism Bureau (vilniusgspot.com)

The city knows they have somewhat of an identity crisis. That was why several years ago Vilnius made the news internationally by adopting a controversial tourism slogan: “The G-Spot of Europe”. The tagline stated that “nobody knows where it is, but when you find it - it is amazing.”

“I’m so often told that upon arriving in Lithuania’s capital their first-hand impressions far outweigh their expectations. On the one hand, this assessment is very pleasing to hear, but on the other hand, it indicates that the perception of Vilnius needs to be dramatically improved to match with the reality.”

— Remigijus Šimašius, Mayor of Vilnius

The city launched an accompanying website that employs some very steamy phrasing, such as “finding my pleasure map” or “skip the foreplay.” While I am not the one to judge the effectiveness of their unorthodox campaign, there was little doubt the marketing turned some heads abroad. For Americans, the segment on HBO’s Last Week Tonight with John Olver may be the only time Lithuania was mentioned on American television in the past decade.

Let’s Talk Lithuania

For those not Baltic fanatics like myself, it is easy to lump Lithuania with her Baltic neighbors to the north. It would be a surprise that the three Baltic states had relatively little in common besides their shared traffic history of the 20th century. Politically, the three countries also walked in lockstep on the international stage regarding collective defense or national sovereignty issues. But it was rare for a Balt (people of the Baltics) to have friends across the national border. While the Lithuanian and Latvian languages are distantly related, they are far from mutually intelligible. On the other hand, the Estonian language may have been from another planet altogether.

One aspect of Lithuanian culture that was quite distinct from Latvia and Lithuania is the role of Roman Catholicism in contemporary Lithuania. Although many post-Soviet nations experienced a great resurgence of religion, Lithuania may be the only country where the church actively championed independence from the Soviet Union. If I were to characterize my impression of Vilnius, it would be the plethora of churches of all sizes and architectural styles. It contrasts sharply with Estonia and Latvia, where Lutherism (and agnosticism) dominate today. Rather than the austere whitewashed interior, Catholic churches are full of icons and flamboyant decorations. Walking around Old Vilnius, I felt transported to Poland or Italy because of all the pastel-colored Baroque churches. Old Vilnius is one of the largest Baroque cityscapes in northern Europe.

In many ways, Lithuanian culture is close to that of Poland. Both nations are Roman Catholic and were in a political union: Polish–Lithuanian Commonwealth. For over two centuries, it was the largest and the most prosperous empire in the Western world. As a federation between the Kingdom of Poland and the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, the politics was unique in its check on their shared monarchy. Other than their remarkable tolerance for religious freedom, the union also has the second-ever codified constitution, second only to that of the United States. Looking at Vilnius today, it was difficult to imagine this modest city was a co-capital of a grand empire.

Tracing the Heritage of Vilnius

Unlike Riga or Tallinn, Vilnius was not part of the Hanseatic League and appears far more provincial than other European capitals. I think one of the reasons that I had trouble understanding Vilnius’s past was the absence of its original defensive wall. Except for a small original city bastion on the outskirts of Old Town, the only remnant of the original defense is the Gate of Dawn (Aušros vara). It is the only survivor of ten original city gates. It may look diminutive, but it is the most interesting city gate I have ever seen. The gatehouse hosts a well-respected shrine dedicated to the icon of Our Lady of the Gate of Dawn. It is said to have performed numerous miracles through the centuries and is closely associated with the defense of Vilnius. In September 1993, Pope John Paul II stopped here as part of his pilgrimage to Lithuania.

Without any questions, the most important public space in town is the massive Vilnius Square. It stands at the junction between Pilies Street and Gediminas Avenue (New Town). The cathedral was part of the former Vilnius Castle Complex, a strategically occupied location since the neolithic times. Two things stood out about the cathedral. First is its enormous bell tower, which stands out like a sore thumb. A freestanding bell tower is uncommon in northern Europe; its scale and austerity made it awe-inspiring. Historians generally agree that the tower was once part of the defensive walls of Vilnius Cathedral, and few archaeologists even suggest the tower marked the location of a former pagan temple.

Cathedral Basilica of St Stanislaus and St Ladislaus.

The second thing that stood out about Cathedral Square is the unusual appearance of Vilnius Cathedral. Unlike most churches around the city, it was constructed in a strict neoclassical style. Resembling a stereotypical Greek temple, the cathedral is the spiritual center of the Lithuanian nation. Lithuania's Grand Duke and the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth monarch were crowned here. Like Krakow’s Wawel Cathedral, the church is the burial place of various kings and queens. On one side of the cathedral, the niches contain statues of the Apostles, and on the other side is that of various ruling Grand Dukes. During the Soviet occupation, the church interior was whitewashed and converted into a warehouse and art gallery.

The Cathedral Square could be considered as the living room of Lithuania. From the annual Saint Casimir's Fair to the Singing Revolution, the square witnessed some of Lithuania's most important national events. Notably, this is a terminus of the Baltic Way that physically linked millions of Lithuanians, Estonians, and Latvia across the Soviet republics in August of 1989. Inconspicuously set within the pavement is a memorial plaque of a set of footprints that commemorates the momentous event of that day. An identical plaque could be found near Tallinn’s Freedom Square and Riga’s Freedom Monument.

Just beyond the cathedral were many historic sights and monuments worthy of a visit. In the middle of the square was the Monument to Grand Duke Gediminas, who ruled Lithuania in the early 14th century. Gediminas is frequently regarded as the most important individual in Lithuanian history because of his role in cementing the national identity and the expansion of Lithuanian territories. He is also known for building up Vilnius as a Lithuanian capital. Interestingly, this beloved historical figure was also known as a pagan ruler in this corner of Europe during early Christianization. Perhaps there is a certain level of irony in placing a beloved Pagan ruler in the Cathedral Square.

The New Arsenal with the Gediminas Tower in the background.

In the early 21st century, Vilnius restored and ‘reconstructed’ various historic structures within the former castle complex. The most controversial among them is the full reconstruction of the Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania, the former royal palace ruined in the 18th-century war between Polish and Russian forces. But like all reconstruction, it was a controversial idea due to historical authenticity. However, arguing that the finished building was not beautiful was hard. Completed with a fully restored “throne room,” the palace symbolizes Lithuanian sovereignty and connection to their past.

Other than the cathedral, the most recognizable icon of the complex is the Gediminas Tower, which perches atop the hill. The tower was one of the few remnants of the original castle still visible today. Even so, it was still heavily modified in the 20th century. A symbol of the Lithuanian nation, the single flag pole atop the tower is also considered the most important spot from which the flag should be flown. The rising of the tri-color flag following the Lithuanian secession from the Soviet Union is commemorated as the official break from Moscow. Due to its unique location, the tower is the most scenic spot for a panoramic view of Vilnius. From the spot, you could survey various churches of Vilnius and admire varieties of architectural styles.

Also visible from here is the Hill of Three Crosses (Trys kryžiai). These crosses allegedly mark the location where fourteen Franciscan friars were said to be martyred. The story goes that a local high-ranking officer married a Polish noblewoman and converted to Christianity. The couple invited fourteen farmers to set up a monastery in Vilnius. As is often the case, evangelization could lead to confrontation with the locals. Unhappy with the desecration of local pagan gods, the people of Vilnius executed the friars and crucified several of them on the hill. Though most historians considered this story to be a pure myth, the cult of the murdered friars became a nationalist fervor after the eventual Christianization of Lithuania.

The Modern Vilnius

While Old Vilnius is the main draw for most visitors, one would do themselves a disservice by not venturing into the new town. Like many other European cities, a new town often refers to a newer section of an old city. For Vilnius, the new town is centered around Gediminas Avenue, a straight boulevard that embodies the neoclassical urban planning ideal. The best analogy would be the Champs-Élysées in Paris. All along the avenue are many of Lithuania’s most important institutions. From the Parliament (Seimas), the Supreme Court, and the National Bank of Lithuania to the National Library, a walk down the avenue is like an overview of the Lithuanian state.

Gediminas Avenue is the prime pedestrian street of Lithuania.

Gediminas Avenue’s importance is best illustrated by the various names it bore through the past century. Once known as Mickiewicz Avenue, Stalin Avenue, Lenin Avenue, and Hilter Avenue, it illustrates the tragic 20th century that Lithuania endured. To better understand the country's modern history, a visit to the Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights is well warranted. Housed in the former headquarters of the local KGB, the occupation museum in Vilnius is relatively low-key compared to the ones in Riga or Tallinn. Nevertheless, it was provocative, particularly if this was your first time at an occupation museum.

Walking the entire length of Gediminas Avenue took about half an hour from one end to the other. Government buildings aside, an impressive collection of Art Nouveau buildings is not to be missed. Eventually, I arrived at the Martynas Mažvydas National Library of Lithuania, which I mistook for the parliament building due to its classical colonnade. Funny enough, it was not until I returned home that I learned that the parliament, also known as Seimas Palace, is the monstrous brutalist building of the 1970s across from the library.

On the other bank of Neris River is the contemporary business district of Vilnius. Known as Šnipiškės (New City Center), the neighborhood was once a historic ‘suburb’ of Old Vilnius. Since the turn of the millennium, it has been transformed into the city’s skyscraper city. Surprisingly, Šnipiškės is a pleasant visit, even for a New Yorker like myself. Aside from the expansive riverfront park, the Swedbank headquarters building was delightful. Its entire roof structure is an accessible terrace that provides an ideal viewing platform toward Old Town.

Delightful Quirkiness

If I were to characterize Vilnius in one word, I would describe the city as quirky. Behind the historical facade, there are plenty of quirks everywhere I looked. From a sculpture of a massive Easter egg to the Frank Zappa Monument, Vilnius seems to have a knack for cobbling together seemingly unrelated arts and memorials into a compact neighborhood. Before my visit, I came across photos of a wall with tons of porcelain teapots embedded. For whatever reason, pictures of these teapots came up repeatedly. For a moment, I assume they are landmarks of Vilnius.

As I walked down Pilies Street from Town Hall Square, these teapots appeared at the intersection with Bernardino Street, and I was naturally excited. It was not until after I left Vilnius that they were put up by an entrepreneurial owner of a nearby tea house with no historical or cultural reference. Although it may have little cultural value, it has survived all these years from the vandals or drunk tourists.

The quirkiness of Vilnius is not limited to the small and random objects on the street like these teapots. My favorite is a sculpture group at the Lithuanian National Drama Theatre entrance. Named Feast of Muses, the trio of bronze figures is the work of Lithuanian artist Stanislovas Kuzma. Each figure symbolizes a muse of the theater: drama, comedy, and tragedy. Truthfully, these enigmatic figures are visually terrifying. They remind me of No Face (Kaonashi) in Spirited Away. Unlike the teapots, the Feast of Muses is a well-recognized and celebrated symbol of Vilnius.

Feast of Muses at Lithuanian National Drama Theatre. — *Feast of Muses* at Lithuanian National Drama Theatre.

Of all the oddities in Vilnius, my favorite quirky anecdote surrounds the adorable Church of St. Anne. Located at the edge of Old Vilnius, the church is one of the best examples of flamboyant and brick Gothic architecture I have seen. According to some historical accounts, Napoleon saw this church on his march toward Moscow in 1812. He fell in love head over heels with this magnificent church and wished to “carry the church home with him to Paris in the palm of his hand.” Whether Napolean ever said that or not, it is not difficult to imagine that a French would like this church in Paris.

Unbeknownst to me, Vilnius is home to one of the famous unrecognized republics: the Republic of Užupis. The story of Užupis is both tragically fascinating. Once a center of Jewish life in Vilnius, Užupis lost most of its population in the Holocaust. During the Soviet occupation, most houses were left abandoned and became the brewing ground of illicit activities. Toward the end of the Soviet period, the neighborhood became the favored area of artists and poets. In 1998, the residents declared independence and published the now-famous Užupis Constitution. Among the articles in this constitution is the right for everyone “to make mistakes,” “to be unique,” “to cry,” and “not surrender.”

Like many micro-nations, the Republic of Užupis today is more tongue-in-cheek than anything else. Many have compared it to the Freetown of Christiania in Copenhagen. I will for sure pay a visit to Užupis on my next visit. Perhaps I will even run into their president or a cabinet minister! For anyone planning a visit to Vilnius, April 1st, April’s Fool Day, is a good option since it is also officially the “Užupis Day”.

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Vilnius - The G-Spot of Europe?

Let’s Talk Lithuania

Tracing the Heritage of Vilnius

The Modern Vilnius

Delightful Quirkiness

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