The Monarchy of Antigua & Barbuda
Although I have been to other Commonwealth Realms, such as Canada and Australia, there is something very different about visiting a predominantly black nation where the Queen or King of the United Kingdom remains the head of state. When Queen Elizabeth II, the longest-reigning monarch of Great Britain, passed away two months ago, I must admit that I was a little melancholic. My sentiment was not born out of personal affection toward the Queen but a respect for historical continuity. In the current political environment, the political longevity of Queen Elizabeth provided a common threat through several generations of Brits and those living in the commonwealth realm.
Like most Americans, I long regarded the British monarchy as merely a historical curiosity. Unlike the Sultan of Oman or the Prince of Liechtenstein, the British monarch has little political power and must remain apolitical for its own survival. Like in Canada and Australia, the monarchs of Antigua and Barbuda exercised their political power through a governor-general appointed by the monarch on the prime minister's advice. Charles III may be the sovereign, but no Brit was involved in the daily politics in Antigua. For the most part, the monarchy seems to be a little bit of an afterthought in Antigua.
Entrance to the Government House, the official residence of the Governor General of Antigua and Barbuda.
The most politically significant building in Saint John is the Government House. The enormous estate sits on the northeastern edge of downtown. You would think the name might suggest that this is the office and residence of the country’s prime minister. Well, you would be wrong. Government House is instead the residence of the Governor General and the venue for official state receptions. It is arguably the most tangible architectural symbol of the country’s constitutional monarchy and the official seat of the government.
But despite its symbolic value, Government House is not open to the general public, not even on national holidays. From the front gate, visitors could barely get a glimpse of the house. The gated estate inevitably reminds you of a plantation house in the colonial era, where it was only to be seen by those invited. The government was in such bad shape that it was placed on the 2018 World Monuments Watch. That is a missed opportunity for bringing the monarchy closer to the populace and building greater public support. On the other hand, the grandeur or the overt celebration of the monarchy may be considered less politically palatable in today’s Antiguan society.
Queen Elizabeth II on the banknotes of Eastern Caribbean Dollar.
For most citizens, the most visible symbol of monarchy might be the local currency: the Eastern Caribbean Dollar (XCD). Even though US Dollars are widely accepted across the island, XCD is still the preferred demonization in day-to-day transactions. The currency is pegged to the dollar and collected by six sovereign countries and two British overseas territories, of which Dominica no longer has a British monarch as the head of state. Because Queen Elizabeth II was the only monarch until this year, her headshot graces the obverse face of all the banknotes. Considering how little time she spent in the Caribbean during her seven-decade reign, I must say seeing her on the currency seemed wrong.
A post box with the royal cypher of Queen Victoria.
An old British post box bearing the royal cypher of Queen Elizabeth II at the forecourt of the Museum of Antigua and Barbuda.
Elsewhere on the island, there are still symbols of the monarchy for those who care to look. One of the easiest to spot is the red postal boxes that bear the queen’s personal insignia. The design of these boxes is nearly identical to those in the United Kingdom. At many historical sites, the royal insignia of other monarchs could often be found on old canons or gates of fortresses. In particular, much of the military infrastructure seemed to date from the reign of King George III, who lost the American Revolutionary War. It is a vivid reminder that Antigua was an important naval base against American independence.
Since the Queen was the head of the government and all public institutions technically drew their legitimacy from the monarch, agencies from the parliament to the police forces operate under her name. While that may not seem odd to a Brit or Canadian, I could not help chuckling when I saw a red van with the wording “Her Majesty’s Prison” driving around Saint John. And despite the country’s independence, the legacy of British rules is everywhere you look. For instance, the street names of Saint John are often modeled after those in London. Street signs such as Thames Street and High Street are just so wonderfully British!
Very British street names in Saint John.
The topics of colonialism and the transatlantic slave trade have been elevated into the international consciousness in the past decade. With it, the idea of abandoning the monarchy is gaining steam. The idea of a white monarch ruling over a predominantly black nation doesn’t look right, no matter how you look at it. The Republican movement in the region seemed to be gaining momentum when the Parliament of Barbados passed a 2021 constitutional bill to remove the queen as their head of state. Conveniently, the incumbent governor general has then elected the present of the new republic. Prince Charles, the heir apparent to the throne of Barbados, was on hand for the swearing-in ceremony and gave their best wishes on behalf of the royal family. Similarly, the government in Barbados stressed that the decision to become a republic was not a disapproval of the queen herself or the royal family.
Rather, republicanism is just the next step of historical evolution. Barbados will remain a member of the Commonwealth of Nations and have close ties with the United Kingdom. While many celebrated Barbados's “final” break from the monarchy, the decision to become a republic was a heated issue among the citizens. Reactions ranged from tacit approval and indifference to outright disapproval. Many Barbadians expressed shock at the speed of the transition and are dismayed at the lack of public consultation. For one, abolishing the monarchy was not even a topic during their most recent election. The issue has never been put to the voters, either by referendum or through regular parliamentary elections. If the recent opinion polls are to be believed, most citizens had no strong opinion of the change.
A notice of national condolence was posted in front of the Government House in Saint John.
Following the Queen’s passing in September this year, the topic of republicanism in the Caribbean bubbled up to the surface once again. Antiguan Prime Minister Gaston Browne intended to hold a republic referendum within three years. Once again, he expressed no ill will toward the king and the monarchy. However, it seemed like the referendum's result was far from certain. Some Antiguan liked the idea, while others questioned the timing of it being so close to the queen’s passing. Some even wondered whether the country is ready to “stand on its own”. Right or not, many still see the monarchy as a symbol of rules and laws.
“This is not an act of hostility or any difference between Antigua and Barbuda and the monarchy, but it is the final step to complete that circle of independence, to ensure that we are truly a sovereign nation.”
Overall, the royal family members visited Antigua and Barbuda once every five to ten years. Even so, one must marvel at the monarchy’s power and longevity. Undoubtedly, the monarchy is good for the tourism economy because of the demographic of the visitors. A case in point would be Diana Beach in Barbuda, which was supposed to be the late princess’s favorite in the country. Throughout the decades, various royals used their megaphones to advocate for various causes. For instance, Princess Margaret spearheaded the fundraising in 1955 to restore Nelson Dockyards in the English Harbour. In recent years, Prince (now King) Charles has been sounding the alarm on the international stage about climate change and its impact on island nations like Antigua and Barbuda. While these efforts may be minor in the grander scheme of things, they are nevertheless a political asset for a small nation.
A plaque noting Princess Margaret’s patronage at the Nelson Dockyards Museum.
The Royal Palm by planted by Queen Elizabeth at Nelson’s Dockyard.
The Royal Palm by planted by Queen Elizabeth at Nelson’s Dockyard.
I purposefully chose to visit Antigua and Barbuda while the monarchy was still in place. This was not born out of my personal liking of the queen or monarchy but my own personal fascination with the quirks of constitutional monarchy in the post-colonial context. During my visit, I tried to broach the subject of the monarchy with the locals. Generally, most Antiguans I met all expressed general affection toward the Queen, and most were not particularly passionate about becoming a republic. When I asked Nicole (of Nicole’s Table) about the Queen, she remarked that everyone in Antigua followed the coverage closely regardless of political leaning. To her, the issue of republicanism is a manufactured political issue.
As an outsider, I certainly don’t have a stake in the issue one way or another. Like most Americans, much of my understanding of the monarchy came from the media portrayal of the like of The Crown or The Queen. Among all the narratives described in these shows, the most fascinating aspect is the difference between the efficient (executive branch) and the dignified (the monarch). After four years of Trump's presidency, the concept of a head of state free of day-to-day politics seems exceptionally tempting. British public intellectual Stephen Fry brilliantly summarizes his advocacy for constitutional monarchy:
“Now for the thought experiment. Select any American president, past or present. Picture a gracious white-columned mansion on a hill outside Washington. In it lives a tall, bony man with shaggy eyebrows and a wispy white beard. He wears a top hat with stars on its band, a cutaway coat of blue broadcloth, and red-and-white striped trousers. His name is Uncle Sam, and he is American. He embodies the country’s values, history, character, disposition, and hopes. He has no power to legislate but is the first citizen above politics. Because he is not elected, he has no lobbyists, PACs, or special interest groups to placate.”
While that would have never happened in America, the strict constitutional monarchy does provide a veneer of dignity. We all remember just how gleeful President Trump was for meeting the Queen. Perhaps he would have shown some respect to an imaginary Uncle Sam after all. In an environment where political norms and traditions are actively subverted, constitutional monarchy ironically provides a culture of political humility.
