The New Architecture of Helsinki
As a follow-up to my post on Helsinki's classic (not classical) architecture, I would like to share some of the most exciting architecture that has put Helsinki on many architect's pilgrimage maps. As much as I admired the works of Alvar Aalto, Helsinki may not be the best city to appreciate his mastery. For that, you should head to Säynätsalo Town Hall in Jyväskylä and Villa Mairea in Noormarkku. The contemporary architecture in Helsinki deserves worldwide recognition for its innovation. Despite not having a single architectural superstar in Helsinki today, the city's architectural scheme is vibrant and bright. But more importantly, some of the most celebrated contemporary projects addressed important issues such as social equity and public welfare.
The marvelous Oodi, the new central library of Helsinki.
Of course, Helsinki's architectural scheme is not free of recent controversy. Most notable is the infamous saga of the Helsinki Guggenheim Museum. Several of Helsinki’s cultural leaders attempted to encourage the Guggenheim Foundation to establish a Guggenheim at the harborfront. Enticed by the success of the Guggenheim project in Balboa, cities around have looked to Guggenheim as a recipe for success. A design competition was held in 2014 after several rounds of negotiation between the city and the foundation.
The competition gathered a record of over seventeen hundred competition entries. I was still in architecture school then and remembered several of my cohorts entered the competition and propelled themselves to international fame. However, the public widely rejected the project primarily due to financing issues. To make things worse, the less-than-stellar eventual winning entry certainly fails to endear itself to the locals. Ultimately, it became one of the biggest flops in the recent history of the architecture competition.
Museum of Contemporary Art Kiasma
If I were to point to a project as the pioneer of contemporary architecture in Helsinki, it would probably be Kiasma, the city's main contemporary art museum. Founded as the Museum of Contemporary Art in 1990, the institution held a competition for a brand-new and contemporary building, reflecting the spirit of its collection. The competition awarded the contract to American architect Steven Holl. At the time, having an American architect designing a significant building in central Helsinki caused quite an uproar. Holl had relatively little built work in his portfolio at the time and was viewed as more of an academic. It was somewhat of a leap of faith to award him with such a high-profile project. In interviews, he described the hostility he felt from local Finns. On the day of his arrival, he saw himself on the newspaper's front page with non-flattering headlines.
I do have to admit that it did seem out of place a bit
The statue of Carl Gustaf Emil Mannerheim
The highly articulated facade toward the Töölö Bay.
One of the biggest controversies surrounding the construction of Kiasma involved the equestrian statue of Carl Gustaf Emil Mannerheim, a former President of Finland and the supreme military commander for the country during World War II. In the original design, the architect proposed the statue be moved to an alternate location. The backlash was intense, prompting a demonstration of 12,000 locals against the new museum (and its architect). It took several rounds of redesign and consultation with civic leaders to address the concerns of many Finns. Eventually, the design team sought blessing from the descendent of Mannerheim himself before the final design was given a stamp of approval to proceed.
I must admit that I had a relatively low expectation, judging from its rather disjointed exterior. Little prepared me for the magnificent interior. As with all of his works, Kiasma's main feature rests with the beautiful diffused natural light in the gallery space. The curvature around the structure seems to pay homage to the Functionalist architecture of Helsinki. Despite its relatively small footprint, the sweeping form and textured wall finishes gave the building a monumental feel of grandeur. The long, gradual ramps connected various gallery levels, somehow creating a very intimate sense of scale. Upon my second visit in 2019, I better understood the Finnishness within this building. Somehow, Holl created a sense of nature and softness out of concrete, one of the hardest materials.
The gentle ramps of the central atrium.
The wonderfully alien work by Hrafnhildur Arnardóttir.
Steven Holl's signature sensual staircase.
Besides the architecture, Kiasma's exhibits never disappoint. As Finland's premier contemporary art museum, the museum dedicates its mission to show the best of Finnish artists. During our last visit, we particularly enjoyed the exhibit showcasing works by Iiu Susiraja. Her daring and inhibited works found meaning and joy in everyday routines and objects. In the top-floor gallery, the colorful works of Hrafnhildur Arnardóttir, also known as Shoplifter, created an unworldly space of exploration and happiness. Nestled among the towering columns of vibrant hair, we could lose ourselves for just a moment.
Kamppi Chapel: Silent Sanctuary
In 2012, a small chapel was built at a corner of Narrinkkatori Square and in front of the bustling Kamppi Shopping Center. The egg-shaped building stood out because of its unusual form. Completed as part of the World Design Capital program at Helsinki. Unlike your typical place of worship, there is no religious service in the space. Instead, the chapel is designed as a space for meditation and a place of refuge from the urban chaos. The chapel interior mirrored the expression on the interior, which is faced with light pale alder wood planks. The natural light is filtered through a continuous perimeter skylight. The minimalist interior only has an understated altar and solid wood bench. Despite its small footprint and windowless wall, the church is not claustrophobic. According to the designers, the chapel hopes to create a cacoon environment reminiscent of a mother's womb. I dare I say that the overall effect is just on point.
A chapel with no window at the corner of one of the busiest commercial areas in all of Finland.
A great tribute to the wood working heritage of Finland.
Jointly administered by the Helsinki Parish Union and the city's Social Services Department, the chapel was intended for meditation and outreach by the municipal government. As we entered the entry, just off the chapel, we were greeted by a priest and two social workers. One of them handed us a flyer, which included both the request for science and no photograph, but also offered the opportunity for whoever wished to talk to someone about their life concern and mental health. For me, this speaks to the Nordic way of caring for the general welfare of all citizens.
Amos Rex: The New Kids On the Block
Since its reopening in 2018 after a much-anticipated renovation, Amos Rex has rocketed to the top of the artistic landscape here in the city. After the debacle of the Guggenheim project, the city was excited to turn the page and celebrate the rebirth of a home-grown institution. The museum utilizes Lasipalatsi, a beloved Functionalist building originally constructed for the ill-fated 1940 Summer Olympics. Being a building of national landmarks, the government prohibited any major modification to the structure. After much negotiation, the design team led by JKMM Architects designed an entirely underground addition to complement the existing two-story Lasipalatsi. The underground structure is dominated by five conical skylights, each with different sizes and orientations. The once flat and barren square has become the most beloved playground for visitors of all ages. Whether for roller skating or simple lounging, it now rivals the nearby Esplanade as a top destination for people-watching.
The beautiful urban landscape that offers endless fun for adults and children alike.
The fourteen-meter long utopian landscape by Petri Ala-Maunus.
The foyer is just as interesting as the galleries themselves.
The entry to the new museum was through a discrete entry at Lasipalatsi. The white-walled entry foyer and swirl-shaped ceiling fixtures contrast quite a bit with the metal-clad and cavernous gallery space just beyond it. The design seems to be a vague tribute to the famed Temppeliaukio Church. For whatever reason, being underground somehow heightens one's senses. The few views of the sky through the light dome are more precious than I would have been from the plaza directly above. The most amazing photo opportunity one could have is one taken through the skylight from the lobby below. Any unsuspecting bystanders may become part of the museum's exhibits at any moment. Similarly, the same could be said about us in the museum.
This may just be the best picture opportunity in Helsinki.
The 15-meter long Psychopath by Miriam Bäckström.
This is an urban playground I wish to have back home.
Unfortunately, we missed out on the blockbuster inaugural exhibition featuring the exciting works of Tokyo-based Team Lab's digital fantasies. But we did get to visit an exhibition showcasing the finalist for Ars Fennica 2019, a top prize for visual arts in Finland. Unfortunately, we were both slightly underwhelmed. Honestly, this particular show did not take full advantage of the marvelous gallery space that most of us came for. Even the blinds for two of the big skylights were drawn, robbing us of an opportunity to enjoy the unique natural light. It took us just about half an hour to go through the exhibition. At €15 per person, it was quite a pricy visit. Of course, this was not to say that it would not be a worthwhile experience at the end of the day. Luckily for us, Amos Rex was also covered under our Helsinki Card.
Oodi - A New Temple to Knowledge
Unfortunately for Amos Rex, the mantel as the vanguard for architectural innovations was passed quickly on to a neighbor just 14 months later. Helsinki Central Library Oodi was inaugurated in December 2018 to great fanfare. Funded by the city and the Finnish state, the library is celebrated as a gift to all Finnish people as part of the Suomi 100 celebration, the centennial of Finland's independence. Oodi, or "ode" in Finnish, has been the most important public architecture for a generation, both functionally and symbolically. The library took up a prominent location downtown, facing directly at Eduskunta, the parliament building. Flanked by Kiasma, Finlandia, and Helsinki Music Hall, it can not have a more prominent location. For Finland, it is also a political statement: the remedy for rising nationalism is universal access to knowledge and technology.
The curvature of the building reflects the movement and fluidity of nature.
What made Oodi gain international fame was its avant-garde approach to creating a public library of the future. With less than a quarter of square footage devoted to physical books, Oodi emphasized integrating the latest technology, ranging from loanable tablets to automated book delivery systems. But what caught the attention of the press were all the different functional spaces integrated into the building. On the ground floor, it hosts social amenities like a cafe, an area for pop-up stores, and a theater. But interestingly, there is also an informational office/service desk for the European Union. It was quite amazing how many things the architect managed to integrate onto just the first floor.
Is it a boat, a mountain, or a wave?
A fitting tribute to master in Finnish architecture, Alvar Aalto
The cavernous book hall on the third level.
But some would say that the "brain" o” is in the second story. The library planners include several state-of-the-art multidisciplinary facilities. It ranges from 3D printers, record studios, media rooms, and recording studios to full-fledged fashion studios. Oodi seeks to redefine the role of a modern library in contemporary society, and it certainly outlines that the future of knowledge lies beyond the confinement of physical books. But more importantly, it embodies the Nordic philosophy of learning through creation. Traditionally, libraries are used to acquire knowledge. Acquiring technical knowledge alone is no longer sufficient in today's global economy.
There is nothing conventional about this building.
There is just no correct way to sit in a place like this.
Dubbed the citizen's terrace, it is truly one of the best public spaces in Helsinki.
Architecturally, Oodi is as striking as it gets. It is difficult to define this building and to put it into a specific stylistic box. It is even difficult to describe the shape of it altogether. For those who studied architecture, the fluid front facade out of spruce planks is reminiscent of Alvar Aalto’s Finnish Pavilion at the 1939 World’s Fair in New York. The gentle wave of wood siding created the most enticing dance with the Nordic sun.
But the most beautiful feature must be the terrace outside the the reading room. Known as the "citizen's balcony', the terrace is purposefully situated at the same elevation as the stairs to the Parliament building just across the square. The terrace offers a panoramic view of the city center and Töölönlahti (Töölö Bay). The undulating terrace platform seems to echo the profile of the nearby Finnish lake. The architect somehow captures the spirit of Finnish nature in the heart of a bustling metropolis.
