The Sticker Shock of Zurich
This trip, lasting 17 days in four countries, will be about the first impression. It is fun to write about what I did or saw, but listing them all will be too time-consuming, especially since it is difficult to write on the road. So here we go!
My plane landed at Zurich International Airport at about 12:20 pm, two hours later than originally scheduled. That was a real letdown because I had been planning for a full day of an itinerary in the city and knowing that the weather was getting worse toward the end of the afternoon. Now, my flight onward to Milan is at five. According to their airport, four hours will make it a worthwhile layover to visit Zurich. Given Switzerland's cost, I debated whether it was worth it. The ticket for a 14-minute journey to the center costs 14 CHF (16 USD). And I was stressed out by my lack of sleep and simply my personal uncleanliness. In a split-second decision, I went for it and was not disappointed. True to my expectation, Zurich is quintessential "Swiss," by that, I mean it is efficient, pragmatic, and steep in tradition.
Grimshaw-designed terminal at Zurich International Airport.
The train was on time and ran about every 10 minutes. What amazed me the most was how quiet it was, especially considering this is a commuter rail with some age. Unlike my ride in JFK on the Long Island Railroad, the train ride was silent and smooth. Zurich's main station, Zurich Hauptbahnhof, was a sight to see. I was truly amazed at how busy and compact it is compared to those in London, Glasgow, and Rome. The station is a virtual covered open space with no definitive flow and entry. While it may not be the most architecturally pristine station on the Continent, no one could deny how efficient it is in blending into the city's fabric.
The south end of the cities is relatively modern. To me, it looks like just a more charming version of London, and by charming, I mean trolly... Perhaps one should not judge a city by the neighborhood around its train station. It is filled with global chains like Bath and Body Works, Sephora, Zara, Celio, and H&M. It is virtually the same except for the much-inflated price, assuming because of the high VAT. About 10-15 minutes down the main thoroughfare, we came to the Old Town, with its winding streets, Swiss banners, and medieval structures.
The Luxemburgerli is definitely luxurious.
Named Altstadt, the historic core is extremely compact, and surprises are everywhere. Interesting shops, from musical instruments to baby utensil letters, filled the street and demonstrated a surprisingly high diversity. That is a far departure from many old towns in Europe, where every single stall has exactly the same merchandise, perhaps all from the same suppliers. It is one of the most memorable stories in the toy stores with a full array of mini-musical mechanical grinds (what are they called exactly?) While it is not uniquely Swiss, it nonetheless highlights the Swiss's passion for mechanical precision and musical pursuit. There are also numerous cafes with picturesque al fresco dining experiences.
The fairytale lane of Old Zurich.
The fairytale lane of Old Zurich.
On serendipity, I came upon the riverfront. It suddenly presented a new aspect of this city, reminding me of its great heritage and strategic significance. What impressed me was the water quality in the river; I swear that I was willing to drink it straight from it. I was surprised that no one was swimming in it. Also in the river were more than a dozen swans gentling, paddling around, and hoping for some feeding by tourists. The city landscape is not necessarily dramatic, but it is picturesque and very gentile. I have difficulty picturing this as a serious financial center of Europe just by looking at these magnificent structures.
The final goal of my mad dash to Zurich was to visit Santiago Calatrava's Zürich Stadelhofen Station. It was one of the earliest commissions of his and perhaps one of his finest works. Being a Calatrava piece, it blends well with Zurich's topography and urban fabric. It has the flare of the Calatrava without being extravagant. The gentle curve of the station works well with his signature aerodynamic form. It was quite surprising that most online images of the stations omit some of the most interesting elements of the project, including the cast-concrete pedestrian bridge in the east. I think it is the value of visiting these places in person.
The Swiss urban elegance.
The urban Swiss charm.
After a mad dash through the city, I head back toward Zurich Hauptbahnhof. Just as I passed the guilty halls of the Altstadt, I came around the corner and spotted a whole neighborhood that looked utterly like Paris. It just occurs to me that Zurich is as diverse and multi-faceted as New York or London. It is a city worth spending two or three days to explore fully. However, I have to point out that I could not swallow the cost of living here. Having only stayed here for a few hours, I was reluctant to remove Swiss Francs from ATM. I soon realized I was determined not to have anything while in Switzerland. A single scoop of gelato costs as much as $9 in the center of the town. I ended up having a less-than-average Burger King sandwich meal at Zurich Airport. It came up to a whopping $17 dollars. Sigh.... on to Milan next!
