The Urban Bustle of Tokyo

My last visit to Tokyo was in the summer of 1992. I was just seven, and it was my first trip abroad. Setting aside the family photos, I had a relatively scant memory of that trip. The only spots I remembered were the pandas at Ueno Zoo and the iconic Tokyo Tower. In addition, I also remember having the juiciest peach in my life. It was crazy just how little I remembered. For all intended purposes, our recent trip to Tokyo might as well be my first. Tokyo, the largest metropolis in the world, could be a daunting place to take in on the first visit. Since we only had two and a half days budgeted for Tokyo, I had a hard time deciding the best way to soak up the urban energy of Tokyo.

A map of JR East’s commuter rail lines at Shinjuku Station.

Unlike Shanghai, Hong Kong, or New York, Tokyo has no signature skyline and is not the easiest city to orient visitors. Unknown to most foreign visitors, Tokyo's metropolitan area consists of twenty-three wards, each with a unique character and a central business district. For Tokyo novices like ourselves, the best way to navigate between these separate downtown areas would be JR East’s Yamanote Line. Among Japan's busiest rail lines, it connects Tokyo's major commuter hubs and commercial areas, including three iconic neighborhoods: Shibuya, Harajuku, and Shinjuku.

Shibuya

Located in the city's eastern section, Shibuya (渋谷) is probably Tokyo’s most photographed neighborhood. It was once a small castle village in the Edo period. With the opening of the Yamanote Line in the late 19th century, the village gradually developed into a manufacturing hub for Tokyo. After Japan surrendered to the Allies in 1945, the country experienced severe shortages and rampant inflation. To cope with the economic hardship, Shibuya quickly became the center of Tokyo’s thriving black market economy. Over the decades, it has retained this heritage as a center of commerce.

During the Allies’ occupation of Japan, the United States Armed Forces constructed a large residential complex in Shibuya. The influx of American soldiers inadvertently transformed Shibuya into the epicenter of foreign fashions and culture. When Americans returned the land to the Japanese government, the area became the site of the 1964 Summer Olympics. Shibuya was once again an international gateway for modern Japan. Even today, Shibuya is a popular place for young people to gather and try out the latest fashion. The area has plenty of department stores and fashion boutiques.

A large part of central Shibuya has been pedestrianized into walking streets. Lining the streets are many fun eateries selling the trendiest snacks from all over the world. Unfortunately, Japan does not look kindly upon snacking and strolling simultaneously. Along the way, many stores are dedicated to capsule-toy (gashapon) vending machines and claw games. While we also have these in the United States, Japan took them to another level. The prizes you receive walk a fine line between whimsical and absurd. The youthful energy of Shibuya reminds me a lot of Taipei’s Ximending District. This area is a wonderful introduction to the quirkiness of Japanese youth culture.

Claw machine full of useless plush toys.

Because of Shibuya’s immense popularity with foreign visitors, this is also a great place to shop for some of the whackiest Japanese souvenirs. From the hyperrealistic models of Japanese foods to mopping mittens for cats, there is no shortage of interesting items to browse through. Joe’s favorite was their large collection of hand massagers. Looking at all these frivolous products, one can’t help but wonder how Japan was once a global superpower. One place I would recommend in particular is Hands. This department store chain is apologetically Japanese, and you won’t find any Western brands here. Their Shibuya flagship store is a wondrous temple to Japanese consumerism.

Without question, Shibuya’s claim of fame is the world-famous Shibuya Scramble Crossing. Officially the world’s busiest pedestrian crossing, this pedestrian crossing is the intersection of five busy streets just outside of the sprawling Shibuya’s JR Station. According to the official count, up to 40,000 of a million pedestrians cross this intersection daily. As many as three thousand people would cross here per green light. Together with a towering billboard, the crossing has become the most iconic spot in Tokyo. Almost all travel programs would pay a visit to showcase the frenetic energy of Tokyo.

As one of the city's most popular tourist sights/activities, Shibuya attracts many tourists armed with selfie sticks and GoPros. This area is often compared to New York’s Times Square because of the abundance of digital billboards and neon signs. As a New Yorker, I could say Shibuya is a more pleasant urban environment but perhaps less impressive than the “billboard canyon” effect found at Times Square. But honestly, all three of us were slightly disappointed with Shibuya Crossing. A few minutes of photo op may be sufficient for most visitors.

Shibuya Scramble Crossing from MAG’s PARK Observation Deck.

Because of our initial disappointment, I made the point to visit one of the many observation decks overlooking Shibuya Scramble. Among all the observation decks around the city, the rooftop observatory of the 47-story Shibuya Scramble Square is the most popular. Due to its popularity, Shibuya Sky is expensive and requires advanced timed reservations. The observation deck provides a 360-degree panoramic view of the city without glass or metal barriers. Visitors could also have a million-dollar view of Mount Fuji on days with good visibility. However, the odds of clear weather are pretty minuscule in the summer months.

MAG’s PARK Observation Deck was small and crummy.

Since I did not want to organize our day around a reservation, we found a less popular alternative: MAG’s PARK. Situated on the rooftop of the Magnet by Shibuya 109 Department Store, the observation deck is just high enough for a bird eye’s view of the crossing. With just a small outdoor and an equally tiny interior viewing room, the whole setup was rather depressing. Even though admission here is slightly cheaper (and comes with one alcoholic drink), Shibuya Sky would be a better value because of the panoramic skyline view.

Although Shibuya Scramble Crossing is a letdown, I was excited to pay tribute to Hachikō, Shibuya’s most famous resident. Hachikō is a Japanese Akita dog belonging to university professor Hidesaburō Ueno. Hachikō would always come to Shibuya station to wait for his owner at the end of each workday. About a year later, Ueno suddenly died of a cerebral hemorrhage while at work. Still, Hachikō continued to show up at Shibuya station, patiently awaiting his owner’s arrival until his own death nine years later. The tale of Hachikō’s loyalty was popularized by a newspaper article six years after Ueno’s death. Many see Hachikō’s faithfulness as a symbol of Japanese loyalty toward the country (and the royal family).

After Hachikō’s passing, his pelt was preserved and displayed at the National Museum of Nature and Science. His cremated remains were eventually buried next to his owner. Hachikō’s story is retold in numerous movies and books over the decades. There is even an annual ceremony here on the anniversary of Ueno’s death at his bronze statue. Since its installation, the statue has been Tokyo's most famous meeting spot. There is always a long line of tourists waiting to take a picture with Hachikō.

Harajuku

Shibuya may have a youthful vibe but cannot hold a candle to Harajuku (原宿), Tokyo’s wackiest neighborhood. Although technically part of Shibuya Ward, Harajuku has made a name for its distinct youthful energy and off-kilter ambiance. It is the ground zero of Japanese youth culture. The best way to comprehend the vibe here is the concept of kawaii (かわいい), which translates into a culture of “cuteness.” This obsession with “cuteness” often refers to idolization of childlike innocence. Some of the globally recognized symbols of kawaii include Hello Kitty and Pokemon.

While kawaii is popular among teenage girls, it is not exclusive to a particular age or gender. In Japan, it is common for guys to have cute plush toys pinned to their backpacks. For those growing up outside East Asian culture, the kawaii phenomenon could be confusing and downright cringe-worthy. Many young people at Harajuku are decked out in over-the-top costumes. The idolization of cuteness sharply contrasts with Japan’s conformist social norms. I love how confident these young Japanese are with their bold fashion choices.

Harajuku’s center of actions is Takeshita Street (竹下通り). Even though it only takes five or ten minutes to get from one end to another, Takeshita Street is world-famous for its wacky and unorthodox businesses. In particular, animal cafes of all kinds are available. While no longer unique to Japan, animal cafes are naturally good fits for Japanese cities as most apartment buildings prohibit personal bets. From micropigs to otters, the offerings were bewildering and almost comical. I was surprised by how expensive and popular these animal cafes were. Many require advanced reservations a few days prior.

Street food could be colorful, but make sure you don’t arrive too early.

Since Brian and I are not the targeted demographic for the fashion scene in Harajuku, we did not spend too much time perusing the retail offerings there. I was much more tempted by the vast array of street foods. The most iconic snacks here are the crepes. Unlike the original crepes from Brittany, these crepes were overloaded with whipped cream, chocolate, and fresh fruits. In the spirit of kawaii, the visual of all the snacks offered has to be social media-worthy. Naturally, there are plenty of pinks and animal shapes in these snacks.

One thing we had to try was a visit to Cafe Reissue. They are famous for “latte art” in both 2D and 3D format. For about ¥800, the in-house latte artist would translate an image of your choice into latte foam. Brian picked a picture of our beloved pet Prue; mine was the Great Sphinx of Giza. The 3-D latte art was great, but you need to choose the right kind of image for the 3D effects to work well. On the other hand, Joe had a 2D latte art of him and his friend; the result was impressive. This place may be tourist-oriented, but it is still an interesting cultural experience.

Ultimately, I don’t think Takeshita was our kind of neighborhood, but it is still worth checking out for first-time visitors to Tokyo. To get a different flavor of Harajuku, head a few blocks toward Omotesandō (表参道). This impressive boulevard was created as the formal approach to the entrance of the nearby Meiji Shrine. This tree-lined avenue is Tokyo’s version of Champs-Élysées and sets the gold standard for street planning. The overly generous sidewalks and towering oak trees are unusual for Tokyo, so it should be no surprise that many international luxury boutiques, such as Hermes, Louis Vuitton, and Dior, set up their flagship stores here.

Architecturally, Omotesandō is regarded as a well-known showcase of avant-garde architecture. Each luxury brand commissions world-renowned architects to design its flagship. This area probably has the highest concentration of avant-garde architecture in Japan. A walk down Omotesandō was like a lesson in contemporary architecture. As an architect, I quickly recognize works by Japan’s most celebrated architects, such as Tadao Ando, SANAA, Toyo Ito, and Kengo Kuma.I think the architecture is far more interesting than the merchandise inside if you ask me.

Shinjuku

North of Shibuya is one of Tokyo's largest commercial centers: Shinjuku (新宿). The area was almost entirely razed by the American air raid. Because of the railway infrastructure, Shinjuku was quickly reconstructed and developed into a bustling business district. According to some statistics, Shinjuku Station is the world’s busiest train station, with more than 3.6 million passengers passing daily. The mammoth station is a multi-level maze and probably the worst place to meet up with a friend. The overwhelming size of the station is a good representation of Shinjuku.

With plenty of office towers and billboards, Shinjuku initially felt quite similar to Shibuya. It took me a while to dissect the difference. Shinjuku is home to many Japanese corporations, such as Epson, Olympus, and Yoshinoya. As a result, you are more likely to see businessmen in black-and-white suits. The entire area may be very lively, but the area felt rather buttoned-up compared to the youthful energy of Shibuya. Growing up in Taiwan, I have always bemoaned at how out of control signage is in my homeland. I always thought Taiwan could learn from Japan on how to tidy up the city from Japan. In my opinion, the organized chaos of Shinjuku set the gold standard for urbanism in Asia.

The Shinjuku ward is massive and has many different sections. Most of the department stores and restaurants are on the side of the station. The scene was far more business-like on the other side of the track. In the 1970s, Tokyo’s administration center was moved from the area next to the Imperial Palace to Shinjuku. The city commissioned Pritzker Prize winner Kenzō Tange to design a new city hall. Shinjuku's Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building is the world's tallest city hall. The building resembles a massive Gothic cathedral. While we did not have the chance to visit on this trip, the city hall is very popular with tourists because of its free observation decks.

Starting just a few months ago, the city debuted a sound and light show called TOKYO Night & Light. The nightly show looks amazing, and I am impressed they could pull off a light show in the middle of the world’s largest city. The Guinness World Records certified this light as the world’s largest “permanent architectural projection-mapped display.” Yes, that is quite a mouthful of a category, but I think it is an artistic and technical triumph.

Considering Shinjuku is Tokyo's largest business district, the city is remarkably quiet. I suspect this has something to do with Shinjuku’s excellent public transportation. Underneath the neighborhood's civilized facade, Shinjuku is home to some of the most unusual tourist attractions. The most infamous one is Samurai Restaurant. This dinner theater is the wackiest show there is in Japan. The show combines martial arts and over-the-top acrobatics into a high-energy production. The show may be very touristy, but it is unapologetically Japanese and fun.

The busy scene outside of Shinjuku’s JR Station.

For foreign visitors, the most interesting part of Shinjuku is the entertainment district called Kabukicho (歌舞伎町). Before World War II, this neighborhood was one of the few areas of Tokyo where foreigners, mainly Taiwanese and Koreans, were allowed to own property. As is the case in many other cities, foreigners often make a living out of operating “undesirable” businesses. In the case of Kabukicho, it is the business of love hotels. The area turned into a full-fledged red-light district in the 1970s, a period of fast-paced economic expansion. It was known as Asia’s largest adult entertainment district by the turn of the century.

Given Japan’s traditionalist outlook, it was surprising that prostitution is even a thing in Japan. Well, prostitution is “technically” illegal by the book, but the definition is so narrow that it is easy for sex workers to work around. Naturally, this legal gray zone invites criminal enterprise. Kabukicho became closely associated with the yakuza (the Japanese criminal gangs). To this day, Kabukicho is known as the most crime-ridden area in Japan and remains the one area that locals would actively avoid.

One of the numerous host clubs in Kabukicho.

Walking around Kabukicho is quite a surreal experience. Unlike Amsterdam’s red light district, you would not find scantly clad women (or men) standing inside the shop windows. During the daytime, the only hints of the sex trade are the posters and billboards. The technical terms of these establishments are host bars or hostess bars. These bars are quite different from strip clubs in that nudity is not part of the normal business practices. Technically, most customers mainly visit the company and don’t necessarily involve sexual acts of any kind. Of course, things could also “escalate” at nearby love hotels.

While visiting host and hostess clubs could be a unique Japanese experience, most locals would advise against it. In addition to covering charges, the cost of alcohol is said to be sky-high and often without a price list. Some unscrupulous bar owners would hire African touts to lure unsuspected tourists in. There are frequent reports that foreigners are led to dodgy bars and charged thousands of dollars worth of food and drinks. Criminal gangs hold the victim’s ransom and somehow get away with it. Avoiding these touts in Kabukicho is often the number one safety tip from the locals.

However, unlike Amsterdam, the red-light district here seems to cater to men and women equally. If anything, there seem to be more hosts than hostess clubs. The host clubs are geared toward female rather than gay clientele. From my understanding, host clubs were particularly with Japanese women, partly because of Japan’s patriarchal society. At host clubs, the traditional male-dominant norm faded away. It is not unusual to hear that many female patrons are married and receive more affection from the male host than their spouse. Perhaps this is why the government hasn’t cracked down on these establishments.

There are plenty of small eateries throughout Shinjuku.

Thanksfully, Kabukicho has cleaned up its act quite a lot in recent years. There have been more regulations on what could be advertised to the public and increased police presence. Nowadays, tourists swarm the area not so much for the hostess clubs or love hotels but for its uniqueness. Although it may be the most family-friendly area in Japan, it is nothing dangerous or seedy, especially during the daytime. Things ratcheted up a bit after dark and became significantly more crowded. Hosts and hostesses would line the main street to solicit businesses. Rather than embracing nudity, they dress in elaborate costumes and wear heavy makeup. It is quite different from “typical“ red-light districts in Europe.

Many parts of Shinjuku have been pedestrianized.

One of the most important additions to the neighborhood is Tokyu Kabukicho Tower. The 48-story mixed-use skyscraper symbolized the renewal of 21st-century Kabukicho. The tower hosts a hotel, a massive food court, theaters, and a game center. The whole project lends some credibility to Kabukicho as a legitimate tourist destination appropriate for foreign tourists. The neighborhood is perhaps too hectic for my taste. Still, many foreign tourists prefer staying in or near Kabukicho because of how lively and “different” it is from the rest of Tokyo.

One of the most famous hotels in Shinjuku is Hotel Gracery Shinjuku, located in the heart of Kabukicho. The hotel is known for its massive statue of Godzilla on the rooftop. Every hour, steam and laser beams would shoot out of the mouth of the famous monster. It was gimmicky but cool, nevertheless. The hotel even has Godzilla-themed guest rooms, including a few where Godzilla’s head is just outside your window. But be prepared to pay some serious cash for these rooms.

Like Shibuya, Shinjuku is best experienced at night with the crowds and billboards. With so many bars and restaurants, it is one of the best areas to experience Tokyo’s nightlife. Having lived in Asia and New York City, I was not fazed by Tokyo's urban bustle, but I could understand why Shinjuku may not be for everyone. Love it or hate it, this is the slice of Tokyo everyone should experience once.

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Shibuya

Harajuku

Shinjuku

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