Travel to Georgia - FAQs
Georgia, the land of khachapuri and khinkali, is no longer a well-kept secret among travelers nowadays. There are plenty of online resources out there, but sometimes you just want some unfiltered personal opinions, no matter how subjective they may be. Georgia is an amazing country, and do not allow the "exoticness" of the Caucasus to deter you from an amazing vacation in the former Soviet Republic.
Here are some frequently asked questions regarding our recent trip to Georgia. Please feel free to comment below and let us know if you have other questions we could help answer (and hopefully add to the list). We hope that you will find the information here helpful. Happy travel and have fun in the Republic of Georgia!
General Questions
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Most Americans probably know of the country Georgia in the context of the Russo-Georgian conflict in 2008. Along with their inclusion within the former USSR, many would worry about the safety implications of visiting Georgia as tourists. However, we are happy to report that we did not feel unsafe throughout our time in Georgia. For most tourists, the only danger may be the poorly maintained roads and the road-roaming livestock. Of course, one should always exercise basic discretion and common sense in a big city like Tbilisi.
One advisory is often cited: traveling to the Russian-backed breakaway regions of South Ossetia and Abkhazia. The government in Tbilisi generally frowned upon visiting these separatist areas and has criminalized entering them through the Russian side of the border (not that they could enforce that). But it is still possible to visit these two successful territories alone. However, advanced 'visas' should be arranged ahead of time, and you should prepare to answer some interesting questions from security forces on both sides of the border. Since most of the world do not recognize them as sovereign states, things may get complicated if you enter into any difficult legal situations.
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Yes! Due to its political alliance with the European Union and the United States, many Georgians in big cities spoke relatively proficient in English. All road signs and markers are well-marked in English, so we never got to learn the unique and beautiful Georgian alphabet. Given their relatively small population, Georgians generally do not expect foreigners to speak their language. But as is the case for anywhere else, one should learn the basics such as mad-lo-ba (thank you) and ga-mar-jo-ba (hello).
Russian is widely spoken, particularly among the older generation and those in the tourist trade. Around old Tbilisi, they are even more likely to greet you in Russian than in Georgian or English. Despite the frosty relations with Moscow, the Russian is still the lingua franca of this former Soviet republic. It is particularly handy when bargaining with local vendors or drivers. Most guidebooks recommend brushing up on your limited Russian rather than learning Georgian if you already have limited knowledge from previous travel through Russia and Central Asia.
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We spent 11 days in Georgia, and covering as much of the country in that short time was quite a rush. We forewent areas such as Batumi, Kakheti, or Tusheti, each of which is a worthy destination in its own right. To get a full breath of Georgia's diversity and culture, we recommend a minimum of three weeks with a full month for outdoor enthusiasts. On the other hand, Georgia is also doable in a week if one sticks with Tbilisi and a one-night stay in Kazbegi. Luckily, Georgian cuisine is amazing and varied, so you will not likely be bored with their magnificent food offering.
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Short answer: Yes! The tourism industry in Georgia is well-developed, particularly in bigger towns such as Tbilisi, Batumi, and Kutaisi. Not surprisingly, Russian and other CIS nations comprise the overwhelming share of all foreign visitors to Georgia. Given Georgia's relatively liberal visa policy, you would meet visitors from all over the world. True to its strategic geopolitical locations, Georgians generally welcome and accommodate people of all cultures and creeds. We encountered many visitors from the Middle East and the Far East. While being devout Christians, Georgians are also known for their religious tolerance. Tbilisi is also renowned for having the only mosque in the world where Sunnis and Shias could worship.
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Since the Rose Revolution in 2003, the corruption problem has been waning. Nowadays, police and security forces are adequately paid and enjoy a stellar reputation. Police stations are well-marked and often the newest buildings in town. Fortunately, we did not have to come in contact with law enforcement during our visit. Given Georgia's notorious road conditions and driving habits, the police are surprisingly lax with speed and other traffic infractions.
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Technically, Georgian is a year-round destination. Georgia's varied landscape offers various sceneries and climatic zones, from the Black Sea coast to the high Caucasus. The mountainous regions of Kazbegi and Mestia offer some of the most affordable ski slopes anywhere in Europe. One thing to consider when planning your journey outside of the summer is the accessibility of some mountainous regions. For instance, Tusheti was sealed off from the outside world for five months due to its heavy snowfall and treacherous mountain pass. Many mountain lodges and guesthouses may even close during the low season, so planning is essential. However, it can get unbearably hot and humid in lowlands such as Tbilisi during summer. We were there for the early part of June, and the heat was already rather intense by then. Item description
Cost & Budget
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Georgia is a great budget destination, especially in the context of European travel. Although it is substantially more expensive than many Southeast Asian places, it is budget-friendly and a hub for many digital nomads. With many guesthouses charging between 25-40 GEL a night for a double room, your dollars will likely stretch far in the country. Meals could range from 3 GEL for a simple khachapuri to 25 GEL in mid-range restaurants in big cities. Most tourist sights are either free or for a nominal fee (rarely exceeding 5 GEL).
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The best way to save on your Georgian trip would be to take advantage of their extensive public transportation network, primarily the shared vans known as Marshrutka. While it may appear intimidating, it is truly the best way to see the country and experience the way the locals travel. The journey may be long/slow, but it cost less than nothing: for a 9-hour drive from Tbilisi to Mestia, the fare is as little as $12 USD! However, Marshrutka is not suitable for anyone short on time. They often would not depart until their vans were fully loaded.
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Like in Western Europe, tipping in Georgia is limited compared to the American standard. Mostly, tips range from 5% to 10% of the total billed amount. Many restaurants, particularly higher-end ones, would include a 10% service charge in the bill. Make sure you check your bill carefully before considering adding any additional tips. Services at restaurants are generally efficient if requested. Like the rest of Europe, the checks are only provided when asked, and servers tend to 'leave you alone as a sign of courtesy to their guests.
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We have not heard of the tale of price gauging while traveling in Georgia. Even in the smallest convenience stores in rural parts of the country, prices are generally well-marked, and you are unlikely to get 'special pricing' just for foreigners. Needless to say, common sense should prevail, particularly around tourist hotspots like Erekle II Street in Old Tbilisi or Davit Aghmashenebeli Ave on the left bank. If some young ladies invite you in for 'special drinks' for "discounted pricing" just for you, your alarm bell should go right off.
Transportation
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Georgia is widely known to have notoriously bad roads. Whether they deserve this reputation is certainly up for debate. The quality of roads will depend on where you visit and your point of reference. Due to the BBC2 show, World's Most Dangerous Roads, you would expect the road conditions to worsen. Of course, certain infamous routes, such as Abano Pass in Tusheti and Zagar Pass in Mestia, still require nerve of steel and due diligence. One should only attempt those routes with local advice and the company of other vehicles. Overall, we would not consider the road conditions 'miserable.'’ However, do not expect German-quality roads except the newly finished Tbilisi-Batumi Highway. With a little caution and low expectations, one should find Georgia a wonderful country to explore by car.
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This is perhaps the most torturous decision we had to make before our trip. The short answer would be depending on where you are heading. Based on our 11-day itinerary, we may be able to do it with a sedan car, except for the drive up to Svaneti town of Ushguli. Granted, one may reach Mestia without a 4WD, but that doesn't mean it would be smart. With serious potholes and frequent landslides, a decent size 4WD would give you the peace of mind that any foreign visitor would hope for. Larger vehicles also give you the necessary height clearance and earn automatic respect from fellow drivers.
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We got two pieces of advice: watch out for the cattle and get used to passing other cars, even on dicey roads. Cattle in Georgia are not afraid of automobiles. May it be a remote mountain pass or a busy road in Kutaisi, these animals would not be intimidated or booted off the roads. Their presence does not deter Georgian drivers either; they rarely slow down unless there is no other option. It is not difficult to think about roaming livestock. Although it might be counterintuitive, the 'cattle jam' is a great delight in our memory for Georgia. Posing far more dangers to the motorists is the one-lane expressway. Passing slow-moving vehicles may be easy for some, but it is a nerve-racking task for us. After a few days, passing four vehicles in one go became quite a pleasurable experience.
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No one should underestimate the size of Tbilisi, a city of 1.3 million. Partly due to its geography and the endless urban sprawl, getting around efficiently is essential for our sightseeing. Although public transit is reliable and very affordable by Western standards, getting from A to B may require a lot of detouring to the various transit points across the city. The number of one-way streets and the roundabout make the routing difficult to comprehend. Luckily, Tbilisi is a terrific taxi town. Most taxis are generally not metered and will require serious bargaining. However, the app Taxify (now Bolt) is any visitor's best friend. Unlike other popular ride-hailing apps, Taxify works exclusively with licensed taxi drivers, just like Uber, regarding transparent pricing. At our visit, they had a standard flat fare of 4GEL, and all drivers were courteous and professional. We wish we knew about this app before we arrived in Tbilisi.
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After some tortuous research and much deliberation, we decided not to go with international rental car companies such as Avis or Alamo. Part of the calculations was the rough roads one could expect in Georgia's rural areas, which will inadvertently cause plenty of cosmetic or actual damages. You could indeed buy all the insurance options on offer, but prepare to pay upward of $1,200 for a week of 4WD through international agencies. We went with GSS Car Rental, a Tbilisi-based agency offering cars at Batumi and Kutaisi. It was truly a no-fuss experience, and the staff was very communicative and accommodating throughout the process. Indeed, you are not getting the latest vehicle model, but that was just how we wanted it. We can't recommend them enough!
Culture & Respect
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Georgia is a conservative Orthodox country that has an old soul. Despite decades of the Soviet anti-religion campaign, the Georgian Orthodox Church remains a powerful force in Georgia's civil and spiritual life. As a result, Georgians tend to dress conservatively in nature. This is particularly true in mountainous regions like Svaneti. However, we found Georgians generally tolerate foreigners and their personal habits. It is not to say that one should walk around Mestia. The only strict dress code visitors must observe to enter the Orthodox churches is a head covering for women and not showing knees and shoulders for both genders. Luckily, many churches and monasteries popular with visitors offer free loaner skirts or headscarves for those in need.
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Although homosexuality has been formally legalized since 2000, Georgia is hardly known as a liberal nation for gays and lesbians. Ilia II of Georgia, the Primate of the Georgian Orthodox Church, has been the most vocal opponent of LGBT rights. On the other end of the spectrum, Georgia's political ambition for EU and NATO membership is the moderating force behind the slow but steady progress on gay rights. Overall, we didn't feel any animosity or hesitation about getting accommodations or services as a gay couple. Georgia is just fine!
Traveler Needs
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Coin-operated laundromats are not widespread in Georgia. As a result, many guesthouses and hostels offer laundry services for either a small fee or free. Overall, I would not worry about planning in your "laundry stop"”
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For us Americans, there are very few pocket wifi rental options on this side of the Atlantic. However, Georgia offers some very affordable data packages for visitors. The main telecom companies are the state-owned Geocell and privately owned Beeline. Both operators have a 24-hour sales point at Tbilisi International Airport. Geocell is purported to have superior coverage in the rural areas, while Beeline offers better coverage in Tbilisi. Our 19GB data plan with Geocell worked great for us, and we were genuinely surprised by the quality and coverage of the carrier. At only 26 GEL, it was one of the most affordable data packages we have come across.
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Credit cards are accepted at most restaurants and medium or large retail outlets. That said, cash is still the preferred method of transaction. Your new chip and pin credit card should work fine. ATM machines could be found nationwide but may have a much tighter limit of maximum withdrawals than expected. Small bills and coins are essential for tipping since you cannot add additional tips as you may in North America.
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Georgians are proud of their culinary traditions, and rightfully so. They have the world's oldest wine region, and Georgian was the most sought-after ethnic cuisine behind the Iron Curtain. Not surprisingly, traditional Georgian food accounts for over 95% of all eateries we encountered during our trip. If you are unfortunate enough to be lactose intolerant or have Celiac disease, Georgia may be a difficult destination. Bread and cheese are the backbones of Georgian cuisine, and it may be worth the effort to find your favorite local bread and cheese at the beginning of the trip. Besides Georgian and occasional pan-European continental restaurants, American fast food may be the only choice. Notably, Wendy's and Dunkin Donuts seem to be storming over the country. Lovers of American-style coffee should not worry.
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Short answer: Nobody would recommend it, but people drink it on a regular basis. Public water supply has come a long way in Georgia, but it could still be risky outside of Tbilisi. Although Georgia is known for its mineral springs and unspoiled natural beauty, drinking wild spring water is unwise, given the plethora of livestock around the country, even in remote rural areas. Fortunately, the beverage choices in Georgia are wonderful and plentiful. Besides their world-renowned wine, tarragon-flavored Georgian lemonade and nostalgic Lagidze Water are great choices!