Valletta - The Jewel of Malta
I love Valletta! It is by far the most photogenic European capital there is, in my opinion. Besides the famous Blue Lagoon of Comino, Valletta's images are synonymous with Malta. Surrounded by water on three sides, the city rose out of the Mediterranean as an unpenetrable sea fortress. Like much of Malta, the city is constructed of Mediterranian sandstone and takes on a golden hue of the sun throughout much of the day. The yellow complexion of Valletta and its residential architecture is reminiscent more of a North African city than a European one. It is among the most photogenic capital cities in Europe.
There is just something magical about Valletta.
Being the smallest national capital within the European Union, Valletta is a tiny city occupying just a quarter of a square mile. In comparison, that was a quarter of the area of Hoboken, New Jersey. Walking from one end of the city to another took fifteen minutes. Its small size provided us the psychological reassurance that we were unlikely to miss out on important landmarks. The whole city of Valletta has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site; it is a living and breathing outdoor museum. Valletta is just the perfect place to uncover layers of Maltese history.
Knights Hospitaller’s Valletta
Constructed under the order of Grandmaster Jean Parisot de Valette, Valletta was a direct response to the infamous Great Siege of Malta in 1565. The heroic defense of Malta became a tale of epic legend in Christian Europe. During the siege, Fort Saint Elmo at Sciberras Peninsula saw some of the bloodiest actions. Grandmaster de Valette famously said that the defense of Malta rests in the hands of Fort Saint Elmo. It was unsurprising that Valette set up a whole new town on the rest of the peninsula. Following the siege, the order achieved great international prestige. Financial donations flooded in from across Europe, and the pope even sent in his best military engineer, Francesco Laparelli, to facilitate the construction.
The Republic Street, the pedestrian main drag of Valletta.
Not having a care of the world.
The Republic Street, the pedestrian main drag of Valletta.
As a military order, the Knights Hospitaller certainly did not mess about when it came to military planning and ruthless efficiency. Valletta is the first city planned out on paper from scratch since the fall of the Roman Empire. Though other grid cities were built during medieval times, Valletta was constructed on an entirely different scale. The grid plan facilitates the efficient movement of military personnel. The layout is also conducive to water supply and public sewage infrastructure. According to Laparelli, the grid also facilitates a breeze to combat the unbearable humidity of the summer. Valletta certainly reminds me of Lisbon’s Baixa neighborhood, laid out by a military general two centuries after Valletta. The similarity between the two cities is striking, but the difference in architectural style is just as interesting.
Gnien Laparelli, the newly restored land front ditch garden.
To best appreciate the grandeur and history of Valletta, we made the point to get outside of the city to admire the majesty of its fortification. A state-of-the-art fortification, including many star-shaped bastions, encircled the new grid city. Due to the level of destruction during the siege, Fort Saint Elmo had to be completely rebuilt. Overall, there were four bastions and two cavaliers. Though a few segments of the original walls have been demolished since then, large sections still survive. These walls had anything from water cisterns to magazines and grain storage.
Lucky for us, we visited Valletta right after the inauguration of the long-awaited restoration of Valletta Ditch Garden, which is now named Gnien Laparelli in honor of Francesco Laparelli. The Maltese dug out the ditch to provide not only defense but also happens to be a massive quarry for the construction of Valletta. The former ditch has now been transformed into a delightful park space. With open parks and greeneries being rare commodities in Malta, the residents particularly treasured this little oasis. From the bottom, we could understand how formidable these walls must have been to any enemy.
A quiet corner of Valletta.
In certain sections of Valletta, there are literally a religious statue at every corner.
An idyllic backstreet of Valletta.
Admittedly, one of the most unique regulations imposed by the knights was the mandate that corners of each city block must be decorated with statues of saints. By my own accounting, this is the case for about a quarter of street corners in Valletta. All the statues and miniature shrines certainly add many unique personalities to a grid city. For a non-Christian like myself, I got a kick out of the over-the-top religiosity. Valletta is known to have perhaps the highest concentration of churches in the world. With 28 churches, there is one church for about every two hundred residents. In comparison, that is fifteen times more churches per capita than Rome.
The stately portico of Co-Cathedral of Saint John.
Most of the traditional Gallarija has been beautifully restored.
The serenity of the Grand Harbour.
Despite the formidable fortification built over the century, it is all very ironic that Valletta fell to the Napolean forces without a single shot. In 1798, the French invaded Malta and met little resistance from the Knights or local Maltese. Amazingly, they occupied the entire archipelago except for Valletta in just one day. Due to the knight’s unpopularity among local Maltese and low morale among the French langues within the order, the French forces could negotiate the surrender of Valletta with Grandmaster Ferdinand von Hompesch zu Bolheim. Without firing a single shot, the French managed to end the knights’ 268-year-long rule of Malta. To me, it demonstrated just how fleeting political powers are. All the fortification and glorious history seemed so irrelevant all of a sudden.
Valletta is certainly very photogenic.
Saluting Battery, which overlooks the medieval Three Cities.
Except for a portion of Fort Saint Elmo that is closed for renovation, the entire length of Valletta’s fortification is fully accessible. Walking along the embankment is one of the best ways to appreciate Valletta’s unique geographic position. Without question, our favorite section is just south of Fort Saint Almo. Various terraces provide wonderful panoramic views of the Grand Harbor and the medieval cities of Vittoriosa, Senglea & Cospicua. Part of the fun was taking in all the actions on the water. From massive cruise ships and luxury yachts to traditional Maltese luzzu, the parade of vessels under the Mediterranean sun mesmerizes. I can’t help imagining the scheme of the 1565 siege might have looked like from that very spot.
The British Valletta
The French occupation of Malta lasted only two years. However, the French colonial left important political and cultural legacies on the island. The colonial government abolished Maltese nobility, the feudal system, the inquisition, and the pervasive practice of slavery. France also established the first constitutional government on Malta, albeit a colonial one. But for various reasons, the local Maltese rebelled against the French with aid from the British. In 1800, the French commanders surrendered Valletta to the British after a two-month blockade. Instead of returning Malta back to the Knight Hospitallers, the Maltese petitioned to be administered by the British, thus transforming Malta into a British protectorate.
The formidable-looking Victoria Gate.
Unlike France, Britain’s influence is everywhere we look. For a start, all the street signs are bilingual. The British made English the only official language and openly discouraged the use of Italian, a dominant second language for Maltese at the time. Seeing signage for “Archbishop Street” in the middle of the Mediterranean was a weird sensation. Of course, there were plenty of grand public buildings bearing the name or coat of arms of the British Empire, such as the grandiose Victoria Gate. In front of the city library still stands a grand statue of Queen Victoria. But perhaps the most visible remnants today may be all the bright red British-style public phone booths and mailboxes still found all over Valletta today.
Open-air loggia of Upper Barrakka Gardens.
Being a desert island, public green is hard to come by in Valletta. One of the most popular places of refuge would be the twining Upper Barrakka Gardens and Lower Barrakka Gardens. This little public greenery seemed like a Garden of Eden in the middle of a parched fortress. These twin parks were opened to the public after Malta's annexation into the British Empire. Recognizing these are two of the most important civic spaces in the city, the British authority was all too happy to cram in all sorts of historical monuments to commemorate the greatness of British Malta. The Upper Barrakka Gardens has plaques for Winston Churchill, Gerald Strickland, and Thomas Maitland. But the grandest monument has got to be the Doric temple at the Lower Barrakka Gardens. This impressive edifice is dedicated to Sir Alexander Ball, a British naval officer who led the insurrection against the French occupation and later became the first civil commissioner, the equivalent of the governor, of British Malta. Alexander Ball is said to be the most beloved British administrator in the history of Malta.
This is arguably the most scenic spot in all of Valletta. From the view platform of Lower Barrakka Gardens, you have a beautiful view of Fort Ricasoli, Grand Harbour, and the Valletta Breakwater. The strategic location of the garden and the monument are important political symbols of British Malta. Just across the street from the garden is the Siege Bell War Memorial. The solemn memorial commemorates the siege of Malta during World War II. Even today, the bell of the memorial, which is said to be the largest in Malta, still rings every day at noon.
The Siege Bell Memorial.
The Alexander Ball Minumnet at the Lower Barrakka Garden.
The Alexander Ball Minumnet at the Lower Barrakka Garden.
Of course, one of Valletta's most famous residents was Queen Elizabeth II of Great Britain. After their wedding to Prince Philip in 1947, then Princess Elizabeth moved to Malta while her husband was stationed there as an officer of the British Royal Navy. The Queen famously said that her time in Malta was the best time of her life. As a newlywed, she was able to live like a commoner during her two years in Malta. She reminisced when she could stroll the streets of Valletta and buy her own groceries just like anybody else. During those years, the future queen divided her time between Malta and England, where young Prince Charles lived with his grandparents.
From 1949 to 1951, the royal couple lived in Villa Guardamangia, just outside central Valletta. Owned by Philip’s uncle, Lord Mountbatten, at the time, this urban villa still stands today. When Queen Elizabeth last visited Malta in 2015 to attend the Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting, she famously inquired about revisiting her former home. Reportedly, the owner denied her request at the time, and the house was in a decrepit state of preservation. Fortunately, the villa was eventually purchased by the Maltese government in 2019. A museum by Heritage Malta is now planned for the villa to commemorate the queen’s personal connections to Malta.
The Main Guard, which still bears the British coat of arms.
The Sette Giugno monument, in its original location in Palace Square, Valletta.
The bust of Enrico Mizzi, the former prime minister of Malta.
Although most Maltese think of the British period with great fondness, the nationalist sentiment within the British Empire was difficult to suppress. For many Maltese, the heavy reliance on British military expenditure hindered Malta's healthy economic development. The purposeful suppression of the Italian language, popular in Malta then, further created discontent and the call for further political autonomy. Through a few decades of negotiation and referendum, Malta officially became a constitutional republic in 1974 and charted its own course on the international stage.
The Modern Valletta
As the republic's capital, Valletta is still home to Malta’s main political institutions, such as the National Parliament, the Prime Minister’s Office, and the Court of Justice Building. By all accounts, Valletta was largely neglected for decades after Malta became a Commonwealth Republic in 1974. With the departure of the British Royal Navy in 1979, Malta’s economy struggled to find a new footing. Very little construction took place in Valletta in the republic's early years. In 1980, Valletta was given the coveted designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was a pivotal moment in the modern history of Valletta; its cultural and architectural heritage became a forefront issue for public discussion.
UNESCO marker outside of the City Gate.
A place of great melancholy.
For me, the most exciting architecture in Valletta is one of the very few modern buildings in the city. Nicknamed the “City Gate Project,” the multi-year renovation project was initiated after the UNESCO designation. The project aimed to revitalize the main entry into the city and put on a new face for Valletta. Designed by Italian architect Renzo Piano, the project demolished the early 20th-century city gate and revitalized the bombed-out neoclassical Royal Opera House, which has been in ruin since the end of the war. Rather than bulldozing the ruin, the design team set up an outdoor theater with the shell of the former theater. It is such a beautiful concept, and the result is stunning.
Modernist interpretation of the rustication on. the wall of Valletta’s fortification.
During our visit to Valletta, we attended a concert among the ruins of the Royal Opera House. The concert, Agħti Widen, was the original production that celebrates the music and sound of Malta. It was a wonderful experience. But to be honest, what was truly memorable was not the concert performance but all the distractions that came with being an outdoor concert venue in the middle of a capital city. From loudspeakers from nearby cafes to the protest march against the COVID-19 vaccine and restrictions, it was a difficult venue for any musician to perform in.
The Parliament Building.
The Parliament Building.
The removal of the 20th-century gate really opens up the city to the world.
The marquee project of the rebirth of Valletta is its brand-new Parliament Building. I have always been a big fan of Piano’s design projects generally. But like most other internationally renowned “starchitects,” an architect developed a trademark architectural style that applies to buildings. Piano certainly suffers from the overuse of his signature style without much consideration of local culture and considerations. However, the new Parliament Building certainly stands apart from his design portfolio. Except for the transparent curtain wall on the ground level, the building’s form and material seamlessly fit into the fortification of Valletta. It was a masterful example of how modern architecture could fit perfectly into the fabric of a historic city.
Commemorative plaque for the U.S.S. Constitution at the Upper Barrakka Garden.
The newly restored Triton Fountain.
In 2018, Valletta received the title of European Capital of Culture. With a grant from the European Union, the city underwent a massive restoration project. Lucky for us, we enjoyed Valletta in its “prime” nowadays. Aside from the City Gate Project, just about every corner of the city has been spruced up. Looking at Valletta today, it would be hard to imagine that Valletta used to have an unsavory reputation just a few decades ago. Back then, the Maltese capital was known as a place for bureaucrats and a gathering spot for rowdy sailors. Nowadays, the city is blessed with a plethora of boutique hotels and a burgeoning culinary scheme.
The beautiful nightime view of the Parliament Building.
Despite the injection of tourism activities, pockets of local life remain alive and well. Valletta feels lived in and authentic, from streetside produce stands to packed parish churches. By most accounts, the locals seem comfortable sharing their amazing city with all the visitors. Honestly, the ongoing popularity of Valletta worries me just a bit. I think the day we saw no laundry being handed out of the Gallarija would be when Valletta became the next Venice. I only hope that day will never come.
Enticing produce stand on Saint Zachary Street.
Malta War Memorial.
The modern Barrakka Lift connects the Upper Barrakka Garden and the harbor front.
Contrary to common suggestions from guidebooks and other travel blogs, we opted to stay in Valletta. Although it may not have the same thriving nightlife in Salema or Paceville, Valletta offers the historical ambiance that made Malta special. Besides the higher cost of accommodation, I could not think of any disadvantage in making Valletta your home base. Conveniently, all bus lines terminate at Valletta’s handy bus terminal. We certainly would not hesitate to stay in Valletta for our next visit to Malta.
